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post #181 of 534 Old 09-12-2013, 08:52 AM
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Best way, or at least most sure thing way if you want it "just right" is to "demo" it. You need to use the exact fixture and bulb you plan to use. Tape the screen on a wall, hold up the light at the correct relative height, then see where horizontal distance measures givning you the desired screen pattern. Record, transfer your your plan.

LV MR16's do well for screen wash lights. In my case, I wanted my center parabola slightly higher than the 2 I have on each side. To complicate it my screen is curved. The soffit is 11" from the screen tp vertically. center light is 12" in front (CL), left/right are 14.75" in front of screen material. These are 50w MR16 10 degree in 4" cans with typical stepped baffle trims.

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post #182 of 534 Old 09-13-2013, 03:35 AM
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Agree with GetGray in that the only way to really dial in the wash based on your exact lighting fixture and trim kit. Many fixtures also allow you to adjust the height of the bulb within the fixture, which can have an effect on the beam propagation.

Generally speaking, though, about 12" to the center of the fixture is a good place to start.
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post #183 of 534 Old 09-25-2013, 09:15 PM - Thread Starter
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I got the lights in the stage installed, wired and I adjusted the spacing.  I was surprised at how much light the 50w MR16's put out.  I am glad I will be able to dim them.   It sure is nice to have some light other than shop lights for a change.  I also tested my carpet and fabric samples with my bulbs and I am happy with the colors.

 

I took GetGray & TMcG's advise and put up a sheet to test the wash pattern on the screen.  I am glad I tested this because my guess was going to be wrong.  Thanks guys!

 

I finished stuffing the stage and entry soffits with the pink stuff and now I am ready for final sheetrock.  I am so glad to be almost done with insulation.  Not my favorite stuff to work with.  I held off putting insulation in the rear speaker soffits.  I will stuff these boxes post sheetrock when I cut the hole for the speakers.

 

 

 

Soffit for entry light


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post #184 of 534 Old 09-27-2013, 08:56 AM - Thread Starter
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I better kick this thing into high gear. The order for the bulk of my gear will go out in the next couple of days and I need to make the big push to the finish. I was checking my project list and there is still tons of work to do. The big things left are:

Finish Sheetrock for the soffits
Get some primer on the walls
Finish the millwork: wainscoting, columns, coffered ceiling, hush box & screen wall
Paint and stain
Finish the lighting & electrical trim
Install the equipment
Install the track, acoustic panels, and fabric
Install carpet
Calibrate and adjust everything

It is still overwhelming to think about all of it. So any advice, wisdom or words of encouragement will be greatly appreciated.

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post #185 of 534 Old 09-27-2013, 09:21 AM
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Keep on keepin' on. Things are looking great.

It does get overwhelming when you start assigning hours or days to each task, so just take them one at a time. You'll get there.
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post #186 of 534 Old 09-27-2013, 09:31 AM
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Having gutted a large portion of my house, I know what you mean.

Having all that shiny new gear there will spur you along! smile.gif

I'd offer to help, but I live in IL frown.gif
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post #187 of 534 Old 10-01-2013, 06:41 PM - Thread Starter
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Scratch another item off of the list......FINAL SHEETROCK IS DONE!!!!!

 

Next up is a primer on the sheetrock.  Any recommendations for color and type?  2 Coats??  Application??

 

 

 

 


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post #188 of 534 Old 10-02-2013, 12:37 AM
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Looks nice. You're really picking up some serious momentum now!

Regarding the primer - it depends on your topcoat color. Just tell the paint guys what your final topcoat color is and they will tint the primer appropriately. I believe it ends up being 20-30% the amount of tint they put in the paint itself at the same ratios.

You should be able to get away with one meticulously rolled coat, especially if you are just sealing the drywall and then covering it with finish carpentry, acoustic panels, etc. But you'll be able to see pretty clearly how the primer is covering the joint compound as the determining factor for needing a second coat. The second coat always rolls on much faster and with far less application material anyhow, so not that much more investment in time and materials to get the two coats.
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post #189 of 534 Old 10-02-2013, 06:21 AM
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Get one of those wagner power rollers if you're doing it yourself. you'll have the whole thing painted in 30 mins with a lot less mess. Not having to continually go back to the roller tray every few minutes and having a consistent flow (with on/off control in the handle) is great. Took me about 20 mins to paint my 17x12 living room (after painting corners)

One of the best things I ever bought. Cleanup is dead easy with a garden hose too
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post #190 of 534 Old 10-02-2013, 06:59 AM
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Does that thing work with primers? Most of the power systems I've seen (unless you go full-on Graco pro grade) can't shoot primers because of the much higher solids content. You can thin with paint thinner, of course, but that's generally not recommended for primers because you want the coverage. And most pro painters will backroll the primer anyhow after shooting the wall to work it into the drywall from what I've seen
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post #191 of 534 Old 10-02-2013, 08:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

Does that thing work with primers? Most of the power systems I've seen (unless you go full-on Graco pro grade) can't shoot primers because of the much higher solids content. You can thin with paint thinner, of course, but that's generally not recommended for primers because you want the coverage. And most pro painters will backroll the primer anyhow after shooting the wall to work it into the drywall from what I've seen

I used with drywall primer and latex. It's not a sprayer, just a pump that pumps paint up to the roller head. I did look at sprayers, but having no experience, all the thinning, adjustments seemed way too complicated (and risky). If I was painting an entire house, I'd put in the effort to learn it, but when remodeling room by room, it wasn't worth it.

There's an extension rod for the power sprayer too, which eliminates the need for ladders in 7-8ft high rooms too, which dramatically speeds things up
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post #192 of 534 Old 10-02-2013, 08:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mark_anderson_u View Post

Get one of those wagner power rollers if you're doing it yourself. you'll have the whole thing painted in 30 mins with a lot less mess. Not having to continually go back to the roller tray every few minutes and having a consistent flow (with on/off control in the handle) is great. Took me about 20 mins to paint my 17x12 living room (after painting corners)

One of the best things I ever bought. Cleanup is dead easy with a garden hose too

Here's a link:

http://www.amazon.com/Wagner-Spray-Tech-Power-Roller/dp/B0002CXCXI
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post #193 of 534 Old 10-05-2013, 10:54 AM - Thread Starter
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I am mocking up my trim details and would like everyone's thoughts.  We built a full size column from scraps to get a sense of scale.

 

I wanted to try something a little different for the columns.  I have used corbels in a couple of spots in the house and I wanted to try them in the HT.  So the wainscot is 3/4" maple with a 3/4" maple recessed piece in the center.  They will be installed with 1/2" backers to give me the 2" depth I need for the Quest panels.

 

The columns will be 5" deep and made from 3/4" maple with base molding at the bottom and crown molding at the top.  The crown molding at the top comes out 4 1/2" and makes room for the corbels to be installed and a  3 1/2" puck light to be recessed between them.

 

I have gone back and forth on a couple of things:

 

1) Should I have Triad stain match the grill and install between the trim as shown OR cut out the top section of wood and replace it with speaker cloth?  There will be 4 columns total in the room.  The front columns will not have speakers.  I would like them to match.

 

2) Should I make the column panels on the top and/or bottom removable?  This would allow me access to the conduit inside if it was needed.  I probably would not need access and could cross that bridge down the line.

 

Column and wainscot mock up:

Please excuse the sketches...I don't have Mario's animation skills:).

 

Coffered ceiling mock up:

The box for the coffer will be a little wider and a little taller.  The "beams" will house 4" can lights.  There will be a gap at the top of the crown for rope light.  I decided to add a layer of maple against the wall going down to the bottom of the sheetrock.  There would be a trim piece there to hide the transition.

 

Thought? Ideas???


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post #194 of 534 Old 10-05-2013, 11:50 AM
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how would you make it removable ?

-

"Too much is almost enough. Anything in life worth doing is worth overdoing. Moderation is for cowards."
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post #195 of 534 Old 10-05-2013, 12:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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how would you make it removable ?

 

Open to ideas but I was thinking I could trim the opening on the inside of the column with a 3/4" x 2" strip.  I would add a 3/4" layer to the back of the panel and add some fabric to make a friction fit.

The trim on the outside of the panel would hold it in place.


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post #196 of 534 Old 10-05-2013, 12:54 PM
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That's going to look nice! Some minor comments:

1) I think the combo of corbels and medallion make it a little busy. If I had to pick one, I'd go with just the medallion, but my preference would be to lose both. In lieu of the medallion, I'd add some type of chair rail along the top of the wainscoting and wrap that around the column for additional interest. It will help pull the entire design together.

2) In lieu of the corbels, I'd simply extend the recessed panel up towards the crown moulding. I like the idea of bringing the corbels into the theater since you have them elsewhere in the house. They just look a little forced where you have them since that typically isn't a place where they are used architecturally.

3) Have you considered wrapping the top of the column with the same trim you have above the fabric? I think this would help make everything a little more cohesive.
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post #197 of 534 Old 10-05-2013, 02:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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2) In lieu of the corbels, I'd simply extend the recessed panel up towards the crown molding. I like the idea of bringing the corbels into the theater since you have them elsewhere in the house. They just look a little forced where you have them since that typically isn't a place where they are used architecturally.

 

I understand your point that the corbels and medallion may be to busy.  I was trying to mix it up a bit from prior builds but it may be too much.   Anybody else have any thoughts??

 

This is how we used them in the Kitchen:

 

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

3) Have you considered wrapping the top of the column with the same trim you have above the fabric? I think this would help make everything a little more cohesive.

 

I was thinking the same thing.  The trim at the top of the column will be the same trim as above the fabric and it will be connected.  My "sketch" does not show that very well.  I am using the board at the top of the fabric to give me a straight edge to run the fabric track against.  It also ties the stage soffit to the back of the room visually.  I wanted soffits above the columns but I ran out of headroom.


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post #198 of 534 Old 10-05-2013, 02:51 PM
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Nice stove! (Love my Wolf)
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post #199 of 534 Old 10-06-2013, 12:57 AM - Thread Starter
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I talked to the boss and she agrees with spaceman about the medallion so it is out.  She does like the corbels so they are in.

Now we can't agree on the way to do the trim.  The small box at the top in #1 - #3 is the speaker grill stain matched.  #4 uses a cloth grill.

 

Which do you like?

 


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post #200 of 534 Old 10-06-2013, 06:19 AM
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I like 3 and 4. I think it would depend on how the stain matched grill looked as to which of the two I would like the best.

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post #201 of 534 Old 10-06-2013, 09:17 AM
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I like #4.
+1
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post #203 of 534 Old 10-07-2013, 06:47 AM
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Quote:
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Coffered ceiling mock up:
The box for the coffer will be a little wider and a little taller.  The "beams" will house 4" can lights.  There will be a gap at the top of the crown for rope light.  I decided to add a layer of maple against the wall going down to the bottom of the sheetrock.  There would be a trim piece there to hide the transition.

Kind of looks like mine I still need to do the crown though but this is what I have so far. As for the front trim # 4 but match the fabric to your other acoustic panels in the room.

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post #204 of 534 Old 10-07-2013, 07:47 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Kind of looks like mine I still need to do the crown though but this is what I have so far. As for the front trim # 4 but match the fabric to your other acoustic panels in the room.

 

I love your ceiling it looks great.  What's the dimensions of you beams?


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post #205 of 534 Old 10-08-2013, 11:55 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Coffered ceiling mock up:


What distance has everyone used for the gap between the crown and ceiling for the rope light? I was think 1-1/2" to 2".

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post #206 of 534 Old 10-08-2013, 12:01 PM
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2" is the minimum, but it also depends on what type of lighting you are using and what type of "look" or beam propagation you are looking for. Closer to the ceiling means the light will be more focused and brighter due the proximity of the reflection point. Further away and it becomes more diffuse. I would recommend throwing lighting into your mock up after painting a patch of your eventual ceiling color above.

There's also this thread: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1352825/dumb-question-about-rope-light-install
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post #207 of 534 Old 10-08-2013, 12:01 PM
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Quote:
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I love your ceiling it looks great.  What's the dimensions of you beams?
we made 8"x8" ladders which have 1/2" drywall so they came to 8 1/2" deep and 9" wide here is link to my thread where we built them
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1468993/the-retirement-dream-home-theater/120#post_23440021
where we did drywall on them
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1468993/the-retirement-dream-home-theater/120#post_23465071
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post #208 of 534 Old 10-09-2013, 09:27 PM - Thread Starter
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I got to mark a couple of more things off of the list today.

 

1) The room has been primed and painted.  Thanks for the thoughts TMcG and mark_anderson_u.  After primer I needed a base coat of paint on the ceiling and on some of the walls.  These areas will be finished with a leather texture and faux finish. 

 

Really no need to paint the whole room as the bottom of the walls will be wainscot but my OCD would not allow it.  The dark color made a big difference.  Most pictures of the room so far have been with a couple of 100 watt bulbs and no camera flash.  Now the 100 watt bulbs barely make a dent.

 

 

2) I ordered my subs today.  I am getting a pair of Seaton SubMersives.  I went with the HP+ master/slave set-up.  I can't wait to give them a spin.

 

Next up wainscot and the coffered ceiling!!


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post #209 of 534 Old 10-13-2013, 10:15 PM - Thread Starter
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The trim for the wainscot, columns and coffered ceiling has begun.  So far so good.

 

The wainscot is 2 layers 3/4" maple with the center section recessed.  There are 1/2" spacers against the wall for a total of 2" of depth to match the quest treatments.

 

The rough frame for the cofferd ceiling is up.  The back section is not laid out as I am still working out the details for the hush box.

 

The shell of the column are in as well.

 

START OF WAINSCOT:

 

 

LEFT SIDE:

 

RIGHT SIDE:

 

COFFERED CEILING


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post #210 of 534 Old 10-14-2013, 05:15 AM
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ok one of your cameras has some serious dust on the lens
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