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post #121 of 186 Old 07-15-2014, 01:35 PM
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I remember when my room looked like that! You are getting close to the longest part of the project.. finishing. lol

My First Build Ever in progress
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post #122 of 186 Old 08-07-2014, 07:55 AM - Thread Starter
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It's been a while without updates. I have been dragging my feet on the drywall stage. I'm afraid I'm forgetting something. But it looks like this weekend is going to be the drywall weekend.

One of my UXL18s showed up last week, I got it installed in my Stonehenge DIY ported box and played around with it using an old DEnon 3808CI I had laying around and the iNuke 6000DSP:





This thing is like... loud. I still have to get all my settings on the iNuke tweaked, but apparently anything the iNuke can toss at it, the driver can take. I'm going to really play with it today now that the wife is at work.
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post #123 of 186 Old 08-07-2014, 01:39 PM
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Any chance you can show a pic of the rear of the sub? I'm interested in building two of them
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post #124 of 186 Old 08-07-2014, 03:03 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yukichon View Post
Any chance you can show a pic of the rear of the sub? I'm interested in building two of them
My build thread for these flat packs is at:

DIYSoundGroup's Stonehenge Build

A picture of the back is on page 3. It is the one with the speakon connector). There isn't much else on the back, its just a square with the speakon connector drilled through.

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post #125 of 186 Old 08-08-2014, 08:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ClemsonJeeper View Post
My build thread for these flat packs is at:

DIYSoundGroup's Stonehenge Build

A picture of the back is on page 3. It is the one with the speakon connector). There isn't much else on the back, its just a square with the speakon connector drilled through.
Thanks, that will be very helpful
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post #126 of 186 Old 08-08-2014, 11:05 AM - Thread Starter
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I submit for final review my ceiling plan.

I'm new to this so please let me know if I'm missing anything. The long wall on the top side of the sketch will have whisper clip + hat channel. All the other walls are decoupled using brackets, so I am putting drywall straight on the wall.

I plan on hanging:

1) First ceiling layer, acoustic caulk all perimeter 1/4" seams (to the wood top plate), leaving the seams between drywall sheets since they will be staggered & covered by 2nd layer
2) First wall layer 1/4" gap at ceiling, tight to floor, acoustic caulk ceiling & floor seams, leaving seams between drywall sheets
3) Second ceiling layer, acoustic caulk all perimeter 1/4" seams, leaving the seams between drywall sheets
4) Second wall layer, tight to ceiling and floor. Acoustic caulk ceiling & floor seams as seams between drywall sheets will be taped + mudded.

On the first ceiling layer I left 1/4" around the entire perimeter so it doesn't touch any vertical surfaces.

On the second ceiling layer, I accounted for the 5/8" drywall that will be installed on the walls at this point, and I left an additional 1/4" around it for acoustic caulk (is this necessary? Or should I install the 2nd ceiling layer tight to the 1st wall layer?). I also accounted for the whisper clip + hat channel on the long wall.

How's my plan sound? I am working on it tomorrow so hopefully if I mis-planned anything, someone can speak up. Thanks!

First ceiling layer:



Second (final) ceiling layer:

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post #127 of 186 Old 08-08-2014, 03:35 PM - Thread Starter
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shameless bump. Plan on starting tomorrow morning - am I making any mistakes with my plan? Thanks!

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post #128 of 186 Old 08-08-2014, 04:43 PM
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First layer sounds good with gap so ceiling drywall does not come into contact with any wall studs 1/4 inch is good
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post #129 of 186 Old 08-08-2014, 04:45 PM
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Fill all gaps with caulk then put second layer opposite direction so if your sheets are going up and down in first layer they are side to side on second layer
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post #130 of 186 Old 08-08-2014, 06:41 PM
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I usually use 1/2 inch spacers when putting up the first layer on the ceiling all around, then put up the first layer on the wall fitting up against the ceiling but not obsessing about any small gaps. Then caulk all inside corners. You need to leave a gap at the bottom otherwise the drywall will wick up any moisture in your slab. Caulk that gap.

Then the second layer on the ceiling goes up tight to the first wall layer then the second wall layer again I push it against the ceiling not forcing it but there will be gaps. Then caulk the inside corners, wall to ceiling is an inside corner. Caulk at the bottom.

Drywall should not sit on the slab.

If you are doing this yourself get a drywall toe kick lifter to keep it off the slab during installation.

You can change the orientation of the sheets if you want but as long as there is at least a 1ft overlap at each seam I don't see the benefit.

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post #131 of 186 Old 08-11-2014, 04:31 PM - Thread Starter
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Some drywall progress this weekend! Had a buddy over Saturday to help me hang the ceiling and ended up getting the 1st layer on the ceiling hung. This allowed me to work on the walls by myself today (I found I can handle the 9x4 5/8 drywall with a dolly somewhat easily, and since I'm just putting them vertically, the toe lift is all I need to do it on my own.

Screen wall:



Back of room:



I'm so itching to have the drywall portion of this job done so I can start on what I consider the fun stuff (riser / stage design, lighting design, seats, acoustics, etc).
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post #132 of 186 Old 08-13-2014, 09:55 AM - Thread Starter
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Drywall layer 1 is completely up. Edges around the room (wall to ceiling and wall to wall) are caulked with acoustic caulk. I realized I left too much space between the slab and the bottom of the drywall (about an inch) to caulk, so when I do the second layer I'm going to make sure to get it down to 1/2 inch gap and caulk that. Hopefully that will help.

Going to work on ceiling layer 2 tonight after my buddy gets off work and heads over.

Screen wall:



Back of room:

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post #133 of 186 Old 08-13-2014, 10:46 AM
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Looking amazing! My one suggestion is that you might want to ooze the caulk to fill that inch gap....if it's left open, I think it'll be like the opening to a bottle, and any sound that makes it through the first layer will dance and skip through that gap, which could be a flanking nightmare.

Great progress!!!
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post #134 of 186 Old 08-13-2014, 10:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrolicBeast View Post
Looking amazing! My one suggestion is that you might want to ooze the caulk to fill that inch gap....if it's left open, I think it'll be like the opening to a bottle, and any sound that makes it through the first layer will dance and skip through that gap, which could be a flanking nightmare.

Great progress!!!
Thanks! Yeah, it feels good to finally make some forward progress after what seemed like a month or so of just stalling out.

My plan was to install the 2nd layer with a 1/2" gap, and then just jam as much caulk in the void as possible. I tried oozing it in without the 2nd layer and it just became a huge mess because it went everywhere. I hate caulk - one thing I've never been good at, no matter how many projects I've done with it.

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post #135 of 186 Old 08-13-2014, 05:00 PM
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Do a line of caulk on floor let it dry repeat. Would not hurt to put 3/4" strip of something in there. Just cauck both sides of it. 1/2" gap is to big needs to be 1/8"
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post #136 of 186 Old 08-13-2014, 05:35 PM
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Since I'm a musician and active in local theater I cringe when I see how many here build their stage below the screen. It's like they are building a stairway to nowhere. Build a proper stage with the steps on each side so your kids or whoever can step up on to the stage and put on shows or whatever. If they are interested in music they can play for a small audience. Host a family or friends karaoke night. Think of your room as not only a dedicated movie theater but as an auditorium. Just my 2 cents. Good luck with your build, it's looking great so far.
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post #137 of 186 Old 08-13-2014, 10:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gibroni View Post
Since I'm a musician and active in local theater I cringe when I see how many here build their stage below the screen. It's like they are building a stairway to nowhere. Build a proper stage with the steps on each side so your kids or whoever can step up on to the stage and put on shows or whatever. If they are interested in music they can play for a small audience. Host a family or friends karaoke night. Think of your room as not only a dedicated movie theater but as an auditorium. Just my 2 cents. Good luck with your build, it's looking great so far.
Interesting perspective, but I think many see the "stage" as a physical boundary to help keep sticky fingers away from their expensive screen. The thought process usually goes:
Wall of flame? - Nope. Ruins contrast.
Alligator filled mote? - Nope. Too much noise.
Theater stage? - OK. Better than nothing...and it looks cool.
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post #138 of 186 Old 08-14-2014, 03:36 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cw5billwade View Post
Do a line of caulk on floor let it dry repeat. Would not hurt to put 3/4" strip of something in there. Just cauck both sides of it. 1/2" gap is to big needs to be 1/8"
That's what I ended up doing. Shoving some backer in there and caulking around it so it had something to grab onto. It worked out well. My buddy had some free time yesterday after work so we hung 90% of the 2nd layer of the ceiling. Looks good!

Today I worked on starting the 2nd layer of the walls, got a good bit done.

Should be finishing up hanging by this weekend!

Now I just need to find a good drywall company local that will come tape & mud all this mess and hide the few mistakes I made along the way.

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post #139 of 186 Old 08-19-2014, 06:53 AM
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yea I am kind of glade I was building my theater during house construction the builders guys did the mud painting and carpet. We did everything else.
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post #140 of 186 Old 08-20-2014, 02:24 PM - Thread Starter
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Framing my soffits right now, and got to the part where I need to frame for my projector (hiding it in the soffit).

My soffits are 12" high, 18" deep. I'm wondering what is a safe size to frame for the projector hush box so that I can fit any projector I decide to buy since I'm undecided on the projector right now. Any suggestions?

I don't want to make it too huge so its a bunch of wasted space, but I'd like to make it big enough to handle a larger projector (whatever that may be).

The HW55ES looks pretty big @ 16" wide, 19" deep, 8" high. Is this above average or average for a projector? I'm using the HW55ES as a reference since if I had to buy today, that's likely the projector I would get.

thanks!

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post #141 of 186 Old 08-21-2014, 11:25 AM
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That's a tough one. You're definitely good on height--for depth, you may want to sylistically come out with the soffit a bit to make it deeper (you can disguise this as an architectural element). My suggestion for the width would be to make at maybe as large as 25" wide and with whatever projector you end up with, you can install it and make black fabric panels to fill the spaces on either side. Projectors will go in and out of your room but the room will remain as-built for the most part.
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post #142 of 186 Old 08-21-2014, 01:12 PM - Thread Starter
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Yep, this is exactly what I'm thinking... 25" wide is more than I was planning on. I was thinking around 20" or so, this would leave at least 2 inches on each side of the projector.

This is a mockup of kind of what I was thinking:



Obviously not that open in the front.. just a general mock up. I will make fabric panels for the sides around the left top and right of it to cover up the empty space.
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post #143 of 186 Old 08-21-2014, 03:30 PM
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post #144 of 186 Old 08-21-2014, 04:34 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cw5billwade View Post
Check stockymonkey's build for idea
Hah, cool. I just found the thread - looks exactly like what I was planning on doing. Unfortunately mine won't be centered due to the shape of my room, but I think it still looks pretty good. I'm trying to figure out how to frame it since I haven't framed a soffit before... Interesting challenge.

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post #145 of 186 Old 08-21-2014, 06:55 PM
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I built mine in the soffit by creating "ladders" out of 2x2 lumber. I attached each ladder to a joist. This made my projector space 24 inches wide and I made a fake box out of thin ply for the projector. The total interior space is about 9.5 inches tall by 22 inches wide by 24 inches long. I have the Panasonic 8000.

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post #146 of 186 Old 08-22-2014, 06:26 AM
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you just have to look at each PJ shift capabilities you do not want to eliminate the projector you want because the horizental shift window is exceded. Looking at your sketch up why can you not center on the screen?
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post #147 of 186 Old 08-23-2014, 06:18 AM - Thread Starter
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My sketch has it centered on the screen, what you don't see is the other side (screen wall) of the room. The room gets.about 2 feet wider, so the screen is bigger. The projector is centered on it.

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post #148 of 186 Old 08-25-2014, 12:56 PM
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post #149 of 186 Old 09-23-2014, 09:13 AM - Thread Starter
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Past couple months have been busy personally, so I really hadn't had a lot of time to work on the theater. Finally getting some traction and did some work this weekend:

Got the soffits framed up using lighter soffit building techniques since they are hanging from channels in the ceiling:





Got the hush box framed up. I plan on venting the heat from the projector directly over to the return you see dangling down:





Built 2 supply duct mufflers:





And got them both hung & hooked up:





Hung the first layer of drywall under the soffit in the front of the room:



I realized I need to come up with a full plan for how I'm going to attack the light tray design before I continue. I may end up having to use MDF instead of drywall, so don't want to go too far.
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post #150 of 186 Old 09-24-2014, 03:54 PM - Thread Starter
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Ended up ordering a projector. I need to make sure that it can sit in the soffit and throw the correct size image for my room before I finish the soffits.

I ended up going with the Sony VPL-HW55ES since nothing in the sub 5k area was announced at Cedia (disappointing). I'm pairing it with a Lumagen Mini 3D so I shouldn't need to have a anamorphic lens with this setup and stretch 16:9 to my planned 2.35 screen.

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