The Vortex Theater Build - Page 7 - AVS Forum
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post #181 of 193 Old 11-06-2014, 10:01 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by kmhvball View Post
I don't know much about the Painted Star ceilings, but if you look at page 2, mostly posts 40-48, this thread references doing a 'knock down' ceiling, which my IMPRESSION means a little less perfect of a requirement.

New build (Mason)

This theater had the NightSkyMurals guy come out and do the Star ceiling for him, is that your plan? If so, you could talk with him about the knock down ceiling vs the 'perfect' ceiling.

I am in the mid-west (Cincinnati Area), and my bids/cost to hang & finish my drywall ranged from $25/ board up to $40/ board. I think 'most' of that was the finishing part vs the hanging. You could calculate your boards x this price range and see how this compares to your $1,500 quote.

If I was covering my walls, and the 'knockdown' ceiling means less perfect, I might swing it myself. If the ceiling has to be perfect, I would definitely hire that out.... of course, assuming I could find someone!!
Interesting... yeah it sounds like I'm going to be doing my own drywall finishing now. I don't know why I was under the impression that the ceiling needed to be "perfect". I can put a knockdown texture on it to hide my lack of skills with taping and mudding. Makes it even better now that I know that it helps out with the mural as well.

The walls I really don't care about because they are going to be painted black and covered with fabric panels floor to ceiling.

Exciting. Now the only thing slowing up this project is me.

Thanks for the ideas

My Home Theater Build: The Vortex Theater Build
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post #182 of 193 Old 11-10-2014, 06:32 PM
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Looking really good! I am also in Ashburn. Welcome to the NOVA Theater "club" :-)

If I were to do mine over I would do the detached walls.

How are you planning on building the fabric panels? I have some info on how I did mine in my build thread that may be useful.

My soffits are also similar to yours except that I left the sides "open" by making removable fabric panels using yards sticks and magnets.

I plan to go back and stuff them with pink fluffy stuff.
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post #183 of 193 Old 11-11-2014, 10:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Looking really good! I am also in Ashburn. Welcome to the NOVA Theater "club" :-)

If I were to do mine over I would do the detached walls.

How are you planning on building the fabric panels? I have some info on how I did mine in my build thread that may be useful.

My soffits are also similar to yours except that I left the sides "open" by making removable fabric panels using yards sticks and magnets.

I plan to go back and stuff them with pink fluffy stuff.
Nice, I'll look over your build thread.

Why did you leave the sides open? Future proofing?

I like the idea of yard stick + fabric panel idea for me to finish the soffit idea. Since my joints look terrible and have completely broken open at this point.. This way I can cover up all the imperfections in my MDF soffit joints with fabric.

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post #184 of 193 Old 11-12-2014, 06:03 AM
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Nice, I'll look over your build thread.

Why did you leave the sides open? Future proofing?

I like the idea of yard stick + fabric panel idea for me to finish the soffit idea. Since my joints look terrible and have completely broken open at this point.. This way I can cover up all the imperfections in my MDF soffit joints with fabric.

Couple reasons I left the sides open.

- First is I still need to go back and put in my recessed lighting and all I have to do is pop the panels off to get access.

- Second is that is makes it really easy to add any cabling that I may need in the future. I just put an infrared receiver at the front of the room and ran the cable back to the AV equipment through the soffit. (Maybe add Atmos? Maybe add Fluffy stuff later...)

Hope I am not threadjacking..... but here is a picture of the soffit covered with a "yardstick panel" - If you look closely in the following picture the left half of the soffit is the yardstick panel covered with the fabric and the right half is a test fitting of the yardstick panel without the fabric. I used Rare Earth Magnets super glued to the panels and they worked great. The panels just grab on the metal soffit framing. (I only used the yardstick panels for the sides of the soffits, not the bottoms.)

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post #185 of 193 Old 11-12-2014, 06:44 PM - Thread Starter
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Couple reasons I left the sides open.

- First is I still need to go back and put in my recessed lighting and all I have to do is pop the panels off to get access.

- Second is that is makes it really easy to add any cabling that I may need in the future. I just put an infrared receiver at the front of the room and ran the cable back to the AV equipment through the soffit. (Maybe add Atmos? Maybe add Fluffy stuff later...)

Hope I am not threadjacking..... but here is a picture of the soffit covered with a "yardstick panel" - If you look closely in the following picture the left half of the soffit is the yardstick panel covered with the fabric and the right half is a test fitting of the yardstick panel without the fabric. I used Rare Earth Magnets super glued to the panels and they worked great. The panels just grab on the metal soffit framing. (I only used the yardstick panels for the sides of the soffits, not the bottoms.)

Definitely not threadjacking. Any input is definitely appreciated. I think I may end up covering the bottom of the soffits with fabric and this would be the best way to do it - never would have thought of using yard sticks as the frame.

Thanks!

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post #186 of 193 Old 11-12-2014, 07:04 PM
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See posts 36 and 70 in my build for more info on the yardsticks.
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post #187 of 193 Old 12-11-2014, 05:55 AM
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Nope. I called 5 places and left messages, not one call back. I have a buddy who works construction and said he really didn't want to do it but would for 1500$ which sounds ridiculous for just taping and mudding.

Maybe I'll just suck it up and give it a try. I still haven't figured out how I'm going to fix my soffit mdf butt joints. Every one of them has completely cracked at this point. Kinda bummed about that. I guess I just need to sand all the ready patch off and use drywall tape over the seams and use joint compound...
Has been a while since your last update. I hope you found someone to help with the drywall finishing.

Wanted to get back to you on one option to fix the cracks in the MDF butt joints. One of my butt joints developed a crack also - the one without the biscuit to hold the MDF pieces together. I think I found one solution to fix it.

In order to add trim for my light tray, I screwed and glued a vertical piece of MDF along the inside of the light tray. Before screwing, I clamped the vertical MDF to the soffit MDF. This created a larger crack at the butt joint. A couple days later after that dried, the two pieces of MDF could no longer separate. I sanded off some of the Ready Patch and then patched the joint with plastic wood (a bit more flexible). Let that dry and then sanded. After 2+ weeks, no crack has reappeared.

Picture of the vertical MDF attached above the butt joint. Taken after the butt joint was re-patched with plastic wood

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post #188 of 193 Old 12-11-2014, 06:25 AM - Thread Starter
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Yeah, I've been distracted with some "real world" things - these things tend to happen. I do have updates, haven't taken photos yet, but here is my progress.

I ended up dismantling the riser I built because I decided I wanted to make it a bit shorter (to allow the front row to be further from the screen). So I sliced off 12" from it. It is now reassembled and stuffed with insulation and topped off with double layer of 5/8 OSB with GG between.

I'm still a bit bummed about the soffits - they all have totally cracked and its honestly kinda froze the project since I'm not sure what to do about it. I may try your plastic wood idea and see how that looks.

Alternatively I may just go the fabric panel route.

Still have not taped & mudded. I called like 10 places and no one returned my call so I guess its just on me to do it myself. I bought the materials just haven't started yet.

Hopefully get some time this weekend to work on it.

Thanks for getting me motivated.

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post #189 of 193 Old Yesterday, 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by ClemsonJeeper View Post
The metal channels for the soffit are sold at home depot. They are in the metal stud aisle. There are ones that are 1 1/2" wide that will perfectly fit a 2x4. I had never built soffits before so this was my first time - I followed a couple other builds on here for "light weight" soffit building techniques.
I am beginning my search here in southern PA for this metal channel for soffit building. I have had no luck at Lowes or Home Depot locally - would you (or anyone else) know what this stuff is called or referred to generically in the industry?

Also - if I can ask, whats the root cause with the MDF seams cracking? Just need a more flexible filler material or do you suspect settling or something of that nature? Thanks!
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post #190 of 193 Old Yesterday, 03:32 PM
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The upright metal studs are called C channel and the piece you are looking for, is
called track. It is usually found right by the drywall.

Could the MDF cracking be related to seasonal heating? MDF is supposed to be stable, but any wood
supporting it, might be drying out and shrinking, due to moisture content.
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post #191 of 193 Old Today, 07:54 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by PApilgrim View Post
I am beginning my search here in southern PA for this metal channel for soffit building. I have had no luck at Lowes or Home Depot locally - would you (or anyone else) know what this stuff is called or referred to generically in the industry?

Also - if I can ask, whats the root cause with the MDF seams cracking? Just need a more flexible filler material or do you suspect settling or something of that nature? Thanks!
The ones I used from Home Depot were next to the metal studs near drywall. I don't recall the actual term they used to describe them, but there should be a few big racks of metal channels near the metal studs.

I believe I just need to use a more flexible filler material as you mentioned. I may also just try standard drywall tape + build it up with 4-5 layers of mud to make the transitions not noticeable. That or the idea of covering the soffits with black fabric and calling it a day.

As an update, I took a break from the theater for a while and just started back on it this past weekend - got the first coat + tape on the walls/corners/ceilings. I need to go back and knock all the roughness down and apply 3 more light coats while sanding between. Should be fun. (Yeah, right).

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post #192 of 193 Unread Today, 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by ClemsonJeeper View Post
The ones I used from Home Depot were next to the metal studs near drywall. I don't recall the actual term they used to describe them, but there should be a few big racks of metal channels near the metal studs.

I believe I just need to use a more flexible filler material as you mentioned. I may also just try standard drywall tape + build it up with 4-5 layers of mud to make the transitions not noticeable. That or the idea of covering the soffits with black fabric and calling it a day.

As an update, I took a break from the theater for a while and just started back on it this past weekend - got the first coat + tape on the walls/corners/ceilings. I need to go back and knock all the roughness down and apply 3 more light coats while sanding between. Should be fun. (Yeah, right).
Thanks for the help Tedd & ClemsonJeeper. I made a few more calls this afternoon and located a source for the channel. Price seems reasonable at about $3/10ft piece. Question now is - what gauge is needed? - is 25ga ok, or should I go with the 20ga? Cost is only about a $0.15 difference so my engineer spider-sense tells me to go with the heavier 20ga.

Good luck with your drywall finishing. I told myself that was the one part of the job I was going to outsource as I wanted a quality job. Like you, I am planning on fabric panels too so the walls don't have to be perfect, but I wanted a good ceiling and wall/ceiling joints for the visible surfaces. So - found a colleague who is trained in drywall finishing and is super reasonable for pricing. I can tell the prospect of drywall finishing is about as interesting to you too!

Keep up the great progress!
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post #193 of 193 Unread Today, 10:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by PApilgrim View Post
Thanks for the help Tedd & ClemsonJeeper. I made a few more calls this afternoon and located a source for the channel. Price seems reasonable at about $3/10ft piece. Question now is - what gauge is needed? - is 25ga ok, or should I go with the 20ga? Cost is only about a $0.15 difference so my engineer spider-sense tells me to go with the heavier 20ga.

Good luck with your drywall finishing. I told myself that was the one part of the job I was going to outsource as I wanted a quality job. Like you, I am planning on fabric panels too so the walls don't have to be perfect, but I wanted a good ceiling and wall/ceiling joints for the visible surfaces. So - found a colleague who is trained in drywall finishing and is super reasonable for pricing. I can tell the prospect of drywall finishing is about as interesting to you too!

Keep up the great progress!
Yep, same here. I didn't want to do drywall. I called like 10 companies, of the 3 that returned my phone call, none of them wanted to do the work because they weren't hanging the drywall. I got one company finally to come out and give me a quote for taping + mudding and they wanted 1600$. I was like, .... no. Obviously they just didn't want to do the work.

So I'm doing it myself. The walls will be fabric so not worried. The ceiling I'm thinking I might do a knockdown ceiling because it hides the painted star ceiling and it hides my probably poor attempt at taping and mudding.

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