Desperately Seeking: Build with 2" treatments on door with fabricmate track. - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 16 Old 03-21-2013, 06:24 PM - Thread Starter
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This is an overhead cross-section of my door/entrance. the 1.5" of wood furring will be exposed anytime the door is open. Has anyone handled this with plastic track vs making wood panels? Suggestions.....


 

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post #2 of 16 Old 03-21-2013, 10:55 PM
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It looks like you are furring out 1 1/2" so that you can use the 1/2" fabric track.
Can you instead use the 2" QuestTrac, with no furring, using the type where the fabric wraps all the way around the 2" edge (QuestTrac 20MOBL)?


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post #3 of 16 Old 03-22-2013, 02:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks LeBon, I think I had considered the questtrac before I bought the fabricmate. I can't remember if it was cost that led me to fabricmate or the fact I couldn't get beveled intermediate track from quest. Regardless, I have a pile of fabricmate track and I hadn't thought about how to finish off the outside edge of the door mad.gif
There must be some builds out there with 2" treatments covered by fabricmate track? Anyone?

 

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post #4 of 16 Old 03-22-2013, 02:34 PM
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I'm not sure I follow completely, but if it's a lot of trouble to make the fabricmate track work, why not just use use wood strips like the DIY fabric frames? Wrap them with the fabric so that you have a finished edge all the way around and nail them to the door?

Dude, are you made of leprechauns? Cause that was awesome!


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post #5 of 16 Old 03-22-2013, 02:50 PM
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If all you have is a hammer everything looks like a nail.


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post #6 of 16 Old 03-23-2013, 07:27 AM - Thread Starter
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Big's bang on. Having bought the the track to avoid becoming versed in the building of wood frames made me reluctant to use that approach for a single strip or two in the entire room. However, since I'm not getting any response I may have to go that route. Any examples of rooms built with 2" wood frames? Could I rip down 2x4 down to 2" thick and then route the edges to try and replicate the track bevel?

 

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post #7 of 16 Old 03-25-2013, 12:20 PM - Thread Starter
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I found a hammer solution for my nail tongue.gif
I didn't realize how far the guys at fabricmate would go in their post-sales support.
I described my problem to Lloyd at fabricmate and he had the guys in the shop cut up some samples and email me these pics within a couple of hours. Unbelievable customer service eek.gif




 

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post #8 of 16 Old 03-26-2013, 07:47 AM
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What I'd do is change the shims around the opening to poplar, prime, paint and finish like any other piece of millwork. Let it show. The problem with underwrapped fabric is when it gets dirty, and it likely would around a door, you can't change it out without more serious teardown. Uee a side loading track instead of the topload, paint the natural color bottom lip that would be exposed.


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post #9 of 16 Old 03-26-2013, 07:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Good point, I hadn't thought about the high traffic and greasy popcorn fingers staining the fabric.

 

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post #10 of 16 Old 03-26-2013, 08:50 PM
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There's 2 ways to wrap a thick corner with fabric and terminate in FT without under wrapping. I'll try to sketch them for you later this week. FWIW, in the theaters I'm involved with, if the decor can stand it, I recommend mill work at doorways and places where the hands will eventually discolor fabric, or wear it. Even if the mill work is only a very small strip to separate the fabric from the touchy area.


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post #11 of 16 Old 03-26-2013, 11:09 PM
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You shouldn't overlook the item of the door knob and finding one capable of the required thickness.


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post #12 of 16 Old 03-27-2013, 06:36 AM - Thread Starter
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Door handle is on the little brown truck right now biggrin.gif

 

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post #13 of 16 Old 04-02-2013, 12:07 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GetGray View Post

There's 2 ways to wrap a thick corner with fabric and terminate in FT without under wrapping. I'll try to sketch them for you later this week. FWIW, in the theaters I'm involved with, if the decor can stand it, I recommend mill work at doorways and places where the hands will eventually discolor fabric, or wear it. Even if the mill work is only a very small strip to separate the fabric from the touchy area.

Promises, promises biggrin.gif

 

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post #14 of 16 Old 04-02-2013, 05:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 235 View Post

Door handle is on the little brown truck right now biggrin.gif

Just a heads up, from past experience if you order a lockset for a 3 3/4 inch door it may come based on the assumption that the latch is located in the middle of the that door. I've had to do surgery on the spindles to make them work.


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post #15 of 16 Old 04-02-2013, 06:07 AM
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Sorry, I forgot. Crummy free help smile.gif

Here you go.

I recommend using high grade plywood (birch, etc) for fabric track shims. The cost of ripping the plywood will make it less expensive than dimensional lumber and you get perfectly flat surfaces, no warping. MDF OK too but not as friendly with staples IMO. In this case I'd use 3/4 plywood, and 1/2 MDF with the corner eased to your liking. I screw the bottom layer to underlying structurals, then use a 18g 2" brad nailer for upper layers.

You can dado the shim so it fits over the nail lip of the track, but that's more work. Adds support for the upper shims but is likely not necessary. Option B lets you use black track which is more likely the color edge you want to see (not see). The top load only comes in natural color. Don't forget to leave a 1/6" gap for the track in option B. Otherwise it's a pain to get the fabric in there.

Option A gives you a more solid backing, which is only important if things are going to be pushing on it. Which they might in a doorway. You can paint the lip of the natural track in option A, and it takes better than one would think.

Note the natural color track is more brittle than the black and easy to blow up near the ends with the staple gun.

Either of these will allow replacing the fabric as none is sandwiched (under rolled) between the track and the wall. A practice to be avoided IMO.

CLICK on the images to see them full size. I didn't draw optin A as wide as you should build the shim. recommend 1.5"-2" wide on 1st layer if going against drywall....






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post #16 of 16 Old 04-27-2013, 07:53 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Just a heads up, from past experience if you order a lockset for a 3 3/4 inch door it may come based on the assumption that the latch is located in the middle of the that door. I've had to do surgery on the spindles to make them work.

Looks like I'll have to get my scalpel out for the offset latch mad.gif Not sure how I'll do it yet but I may try to find a longer spindle for the one side of the latch.
Big how did you handle strike plates that aren't wide enough to cover the extra width of fabric panels? I took a look at Bacon's thread but didn't see any signs of a strike plate covering the fabric edge.

 

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