The SKYFALL Theatre - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 42 Old 04-03-2013, 02:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Thought I would kick off a thread to document my current dedicated theatre build. Based in Southern Sydney Australia I am in the process of converting an outdoor double Garage detached from the house into a dedicated room. The theatre at this point will be more for function than elegance. "SKYFALL" relates to the feeling I get from having limited ceiling height, but will look to incorporate the theme at some point.

I will provide links to material providers to help other Aussies on their journey and thank some other forum members for their advice and guidance which has made this a very painless exercise so far...
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post #2 of 42 Old 04-25-2013, 07:39 AM
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So Matt.... where are the pics????

Follow my thread here
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post #3 of 42 Old 04-27-2013, 07:57 PM - Thread Starter
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Well, I have been flat out but let's see if I can upload some photos









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post #4 of 42 Old 04-27-2013, 08:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Had to get new mains power run, with a sub-panel installed, two circuits for the room, 1 for the rack, 1 for air con and 1 for lights
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post #5 of 42 Old 04-27-2013, 09:23 PM - Thread Starter
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So a bit of details on the build. I am building within an existing double garage detached from the house. I have had additional timber to take the weight. Estimated at about 4 tonnes :-)

Construction involved whisperclips, channel, insulated with Knaff acoustic batts in the walls and ceiling supplied by Eureka Insulation Prestons. http://www.eurekainsulation.com.au/

The first layer of wall was15mm structural plywood all gaps chalked with GG acoustic sealant.

Plywood sourced from http://plymaster.com.au amazing price for the quality and great delivery, miles better than anyone else I found in Sydney.

Green Glue applied via pales and gun onto 16mm Gyprock Fyrcheck. Bloody heavy stuff! Again got an excellent price from http://buybuildingsupplies.com.au. The guys were even very helpful unloading. I was a bit freaked out with there selling model, no phone number, ask what you want, they the source and let you know to buy.

Turned up when expected and at least 30% cheaper than anyone else I had quote.

Plastering was done by an excellent local contractor, happy to PM details to Sydney members.
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post #6 of 42 Old 04-27-2013, 09:26 PM - Thread Starter
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post #7 of 42 Old 04-27-2013, 09:31 PM - Thread Starter
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Painting has been completed, main room is currently black, used the Rosco Supersaturated Black. Not to happy at the moment as it marks, need to see what I can do.



Managed to lay floating floor outside room and in Rack / equipment room

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post #8 of 42 Old 04-27-2013, 09:36 PM - Thread Starter
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Air con guys come tomorrow, unit is a Daikin Ururu Sarara 2.8kw, not the best design for ultimate sound isolation, but it does have a fresh air intake which will change over all air in my room within 2 hours, would rather breath easy than suffocate

http://www.daikin.com.au/ururu-sarara

It is about $1600 for the unit compared to a comparable unit from say Mitsubishi for around $900, but felt it was worth it for fresh air capabilities

This is the only residential unit with fresh air intake, fingers crossed its not marketing BS :-)
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post #9 of 42 Old 04-27-2013, 09:48 PM - Thread Starter
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While I am on a roll, the room dimensions have ended up at 5.7m long, 3.98m wide by 2.01m high, hence SKYFALL I'm amazed at how the room acoustics have changed, it's a lot like a cave with the echo. I now understand the need for acoustic treatment, though it is doing my head in trying to work out what is the best, think I will need to do lots of learning and get in some outside help
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post #10 of 42 Old 04-27-2013, 11:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matthewa View Post

I am building within an existing double garage detached from the house.

Woot, brother! (my build is also 1/2 of a double detached garage) Subbed, will be interested to see how yours comes along...
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post #11 of 42 Old 04-28-2013, 07:10 PM - Thread Starter
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Keyless Entry to the shed, to keep the kids out when I'm not around...

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post #12 of 42 Old 04-30-2013, 04:40 AM - Thread Starter
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It's a little lonely in here frown.gif Oh, well....maybe a few of you will drop by and offer some advice. The room is now at lockup, and I now need to determine my front stage design and screen selection. This leads me to outline some of the kit I have or am planning to use within the room.

I am looking at purchasing an AT screen from OZTS. I was originally considering an A-lens setup, but will commence with zooming as it looks like 4k or 4k lite should be reachable for me in the next 12 - 24 months. I currently run an EPSON TW-9000. It will be basically 5m from lens to screen. The screen size I am thinking of is 140" 2.37:1 scope.

The front speaker system is all active with L+C+R being handled by http://sgraudio.com.au/products/convex/cx4f.html.

In addition to the front floor standers, I currently have one submersive for sub duties looking to add an additional to solve any major bass issues the room may have.

The room is cabled for an 11.x active system, I am currently only looking to add 4 x seaton sparks for rear and surround back to have a 7.2 system. Unfortunately Mark is out of the current spark so I am waiting on his new design to be released.

So as to advice. With the SGR tweeter already set at my ear height should I just carpet the room and forgo the front stage or do I raise the level by adding the stage (sand filled) to increase isolation for the subs and the fronts.
Also with the size of the screen my eyes will be about 6-8cm above the 1/3 lower line of the screen, I am yet to test this fully, but feel I should be able to handle the screen size. Depending on room modes, etc I am looking to have my seating row from around 3.1m - 4.2 m from the screen based on best audio and video compromise.

Next issue to figure out will be acoustic treatment plans, I'll save that topic for later
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post #13 of 42 Old 04-30-2013, 05:15 AM
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Why not just a shallow sand filled stage for the mains? If the AT space is deep, the subs could go on a taller sand filled stage, basically creating a two step
sand filled stage.
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post #14 of 42 Old 04-30-2013, 05:31 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tedd View Post

Why not just a shallow sand filled stage for the mains? If the AT space is deep, the subs could go on a taller sand filled stage, basically creating a two step
sand filled stage.

I currently have a stage frame that is about 8.5cm which would be capped with two layers of 15mm ply with GG
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post #15 of 42 Old 05-03-2013, 09:40 PM - Thread Starter
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Air con is in

Also had power completed, including a power rail for behind the screen

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post #16 of 42 Old 05-03-2013, 11:35 PM
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What sort of sound volume is that air conditioner? It is one thing to know the specs, another to hear it in your room, now that it is there, how would you personally rate the sound level?
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post #17 of 42 Old 05-04-2013, 01:32 AM - Thread Starter
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Hi Warren, I have only run it for a few minutes as the room has no carpet and a fair bit of building dust around, but when it was turned on at auto it was pumping out a fair volume of air, but my plan is to run it in night / eco mode, when i changed to that it went very low, I look forward to give it a bigger test once the room is more established, but at this stage it looks promising. I will let everyone knows how it goes, as it was quite a step up in price compared to the standard split systems that only recycle room air so I am hoping it is worth the investment and doesn't detract from the sound quality of the room. The most noticeable thing at the moment is it is bright white in a room of black, so it stands out!

Cheers,

Matt
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post #18 of 42 Old 05-04-2013, 04:49 AM
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140 inch screen...you'll need a light cannon!

Welcome to the Forum!

I went with a similar setup idea - 130 inch scope screen. The stage under the screen accomodates my speakers and subs.

Nice start!

John

Loganed...finally. 6/6/08
My 3.0 HT Build Thread
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post #19 of 42 Old 05-04-2013, 09:18 AM
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Re: light cannon - I have a 136" wide AT screen ( 151" diagonal in 2.35:1 aspect), and have been happy with the brightness from an RS-20 - around 1000 hours on the bulb I did switch to high lamp though. Some might prefer a smaller image to get more lumens.
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post #20 of 42 Old 05-04-2013, 09:42 AM
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I'm at 168" width and happy with an AE4000. It's not as punchy as it is at smaller sizes, but the tradeoff is immersion. Don't be afraid to go large if that's important to you.

The "Twinseltown" Theater
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post #21 of 42 Old 05-04-2013, 11:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tony123 View Post

I'm at 168" width and happy with an AE4000. It's not as punchy as it is at smaller sizes, but the tradeoff is immersion. Don't be afraid to go large if that's important to you.
Wow, what's your throw distance, the max width I can get is 133" at 15' throw.
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post #22 of 42 Old 05-04-2013, 05:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnsteph10 View Post

140 inch screen...you'll need a light cannon!

Welcome to the Forum!

I went with a similar setup idea - 130 inch scope screen. The stage under the screen accomodates my speakers and subs.

Nice start!
Yeah, I was originally thinking 130 and may still go that way once I test the setup, as the screen is going to be quite low to the floor, but if its just a matter of brightness, I may stick with the larger size as projectors will come and go but the screen will remain. Also I have found I have always preferred a accurate colour rather than a plasma pop image
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post #23 of 42 Old 05-04-2013, 05:52 PM
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My throw is 19'.

The "Twinseltown" Theater
Construction Thread
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post #24 of 42 Old 05-05-2013, 06:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matthewa View Post

Keyless Entry to the shed, to keep the kids out when I'm not around...


Nice!!
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post #25 of 42 Old 05-06-2013, 12:52 AM - Thread Starter
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Any REW fans out there? I am after some advice, I would like to get a good understanding of my room and equipment so thought it would be good to have a go at using REW. Can anyone suggest what's a good USB mic setup for someone starting out?
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post #26 of 42 Old 05-06-2013, 12:59 AM
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The only calibrated USB mics I can think of to recommend are the UMM6 from Cross Spectrum.
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post #27 of 42 Old 05-06-2013, 10:38 AM
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I use the Behringer ECM8000 mic (very similar to the Dayton) - can also be purchased calibrated from Cross Spectrum Labs
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post #28 of 42 Old 05-06-2013, 11:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matthewa View Post

Any REW fans out there? I am after some advice, I would like to get a good understanding of my room and equipment so thought it would be good to have a go at using REW. Can anyone suggest what's a good USB mic setup for someone starting out?

I'm just getting into it. Took some measurements for the first time last week.

There are 2 primary USB mic offerings out there. The Dayton UMM6 from Cross Spectrum Labs and the MiniDSP UMIK1. Right now, I'd go with the UMM6 from Cross Spectrum. The UMIK1 from MiniDSP recently had calibration file issues that resulted in many users sending the units back or getting a soldered in replacement chip. Pretty big fiasco that is well documented on Hometheatershack.

I picked up the UMM6 myself. Easy to use.

Compared to using a non-USB mic, you don't need a phantom power source (A pre) nor do you need to generate a calibration file for the laptop/PC that you are using.

The downside to a USB mic is they have a little higher noise floor but it's low enough to be moot and you can't do any timing features with them. Most users don't do any timing feature and just use the tape measurement method and entering the distance into their AVR/Pre. The speed of sound is a constant. For the subwoofer, it's a little bit more tricky, but you can use REW and take multiple measurements to see where the sub/main meet at the cross over point to find the best delay setting.

"The Scuba Tank" thread here
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post #29 of 42 Old 05-25-2013, 10:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Well, the build has slowed, but I think I have found a good carpet. I do have a concern though, happy for advise. My door opens out of theatre and is a solid core with 16mm of mdf. It has weather strips around the outside, I am yet to cover the bottom. However it is not stopping hardly any sound. If I put the vacuum on I can hear it clearly through the door do you think any extra layer and GG will make much difference or should I scrap it and start again with a better door, or could it be the frame?
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post #30 of 42 Old 05-26-2013, 10:06 AM
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What kind of seals do you have around the door jamb and sill?
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