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post #571 of 583 Old 01-26-2015, 12:51 AM
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Originally Posted by JRock3x8 View Post
I've been shopping for a second blu-ray player for the basement (mostly to watch 3-D movies... of which I have precisely one... sooooo.... anyways...) but all the lowest cost blu-raly players have the digital coax whereas I always thought I should prefer digital optical.
Why would you want the signal to be converted two times extra? It has to be an area with SEVERE electrical interference for an optical cable to have any usage. Digital cable with the correct impedance does the job. Optical is my last choice for when I only have that output, or I run out of coax inputs.

Today you seldom need any digital cable at all - the HDMI carries it all.

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post #572 of 583 Old 01-26-2015, 06:07 AM - Thread Starter
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Why would you want the signal to be converted two times extra? It has to be an area with SEVERE electrical interference for an optical cable to have any usage. Digital cable with the correct impedance does the job. Optical is my last choice for when I only have that output, or I run out of coax inputs.

Today you seldom need any digital cable at all - the HDMI carries it all.
Sorry so you're saying you prefer coax to optical?
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post #573 of 583 Old 01-26-2015, 06:56 AM
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Originally Posted by JRock3x8 View Post
Sorry so you're saying you prefer coax to optical?
Yes, it's superior in all ways unless you live next door to a power transformer or a radiostation.

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post #574 of 583 Old 01-26-2015, 09:48 AM - Thread Starter
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Yes, it's superior in all ways unless you live next door to a power transformer or a radiostation.
is this coax like you use for your cable TV? would be bummed if that's so because I just threw SO much of that away...
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post #575 of 583 Old 01-26-2015, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by JRock3x8 View Post
is this coax like you use for your cable TV? would be bummed if that's so because I just threw SO much of that away...
Buy a complete cable from a serious brand that you can be sure adhere to the impedance specs for digital cables.

Normal rca and speaker cables you can do yourself. Digital cable must be exact to specs. I doubt I can give you any names, here in Sweden I stick to Supra cables as I know they can be trusted in that regard.

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post #576 of 583 Old 01-26-2015, 10:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Nightlord View Post
Buy a complete cable from a serious brand that you can be sure adhere to the impedance specs for digital cables.

Normal rca and speaker cables you can do yourself. Digital cable must be exact to specs. I doubt I can give you any names, here in Sweden I stick to Supra cables as I know they can be trusted in that regard.
this was the answer that I was looking for

http://www.monoprice.com/Product?seq...BNsaAqUZ8P8HAQ

with all apologies and I don't mean to offend, I tend to shy away from "serious brands" because you can get 75% of the performance for 25% of the price with off brand. If I were drowning in money I might be more picky but that's just not how I buy stuff.
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post #577 of 583 Old 01-26-2015, 11:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRock3x8 View Post
this was the answer that I was looking for

http://www.monoprice.com/Product?seq...BNsaAqUZ8P8HAQ

with all apologies and I don't mean to offend, I tend to shy away from "serious brands" because you can get 75% of the performance for 25% of the price with off brand. If I were drowning in money I might be more picky but that's just not how I buy stuff.
A serious brand is one who do what they say rather than mumbo jumbo. I use electrical installation wire for speakers, and for interconnects I use well terminated no-nonsense cables of proper specs. I don't regard Monster Cable serious, for instance. I've seen an autopsy of what's inside their boxes.
(I do own cable that has similar function in them, but that doesn't put a ridicolous price for a few added components).

I don't see anything wrong with the cable you linked to, under the premise that it is 75ohm as they say. Price is amazing. I couldn't get anything at all for twice the price and if it is gold plated metal I'd have to go higher. I have heard lf cheap brands that have actually goldplated plastic in the contacts, but monoprice seems to have a good reputation on AVS, so I assume that's not the case.

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post #578 of 583 Old 01-26-2015, 12:15 PM - Thread Starter
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A serious brand is one who do what they say rather than mumbo jumbo. I use electrical installation wire for speakers, and for interconnects I use well terminated no-nonsense cables of proper specs. I don't regard Monster Cable serious, for instance. I've seen an autopsy of what's inside their boxes.
(I do own cable that has similar function in them, but that doesn't put a ridicolous price for a few added components).

I don't see anything wrong with the cable you linked to, under the premise that it is 75ohm as they say. Price is amazing. I couldn't get anything at all for twice the price and if it is gold plated metal I'd have to go higher. I have heard lf cheap brands that have actually goldplated plastic in the contacts, but monoprice seems to have a good reputation on AVS, so I assume that's not the case.
sounds like you are talking about "professional" grade. Again, I mean no offense to anyone but I would almost never do that.
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post #579 of 583 Old 01-26-2015, 01:47 PM
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No, just honest, technically sound and no snakeoil added.

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post #580 of 583 Old 01-27-2015, 03:50 AM - Thread Starter
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question : do more expensive projectors do something to eliminate / reduce the "window screen" effect?

I know that I sit entirely too close to my screen (I'm about 10' away from an 11' wide 1080p screen) but I love the ultra-wide field of view. There's something about watching a movie where your peripheral vision is more or less encapsulated by what's on the screen.

What I don't love is the chunkiness / window-screen look of the picture. But you don't notice that when you go to the theater and the effective resolution of their movies isn't that much better than 1080p is it?

So is it just my projector (BenQ 1070W)? Or is something else at play here?
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post #581 of 583 Old 01-28-2015, 12:09 AM
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I don't really know what you mean. Could it be the gitter between pixels you refer to? If you see that from where you sit, you either sit too close, the picture is blown up to big, the proj is unusually poor in this regard - or a combination of them all.

Most cinemas here in Sweden use 1080p. Those that got upgraded typically for 3D HFR for the first Hobbit are 4K, but they are still a minority.

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post #582 of 583 Old 01-28-2015, 08:53 AM
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I'm pretty sure you're just running into the maximum capabilities of your projector. The imaging chip is a DLP DMD (digital micromirror device). It's an array of tiny mirrors that reflect light back toward the screen. The mirrors can't be absolutely next to each other as they have to move independently. The space between the mirrors leaves a grid pattern of black. The larger you expand the image optically, the larger the grid becomes.

Newer, fancier, and more expensive projectors do a better job of hiding that. You might try adjusting the focus as an experiment - the grid should fade, but you may hate the soft focus.
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post #583 of 583 Unread Today, 09:26 AM - Thread Starter
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I'm pretty sure you're just running into the maximum capabilities of your projector. The imaging chip is a DLP DMD (digital micromirror device). It's an array of tiny mirrors that reflect light back toward the screen. The mirrors can't be absolutely next to each other as they have to move independently. The space between the mirrors leaves a grid pattern of black. The larger you expand the image optically, the larger the grid becomes.

Newer, fancier, and more expensive projectors do a better job of hiding that. You might try adjusting the focus as an experiment - the grid should fade, but you may hate the soft focus.
that sounds right.
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