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post #571 of 599 Old 01-26-2015, 12:51 AM
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Originally Posted by JRock3x8 View Post
I've been shopping for a second blu-ray player for the basement (mostly to watch 3-D movies... of which I have precisely one... sooooo.... anyways...) but all the lowest cost blu-raly players have the digital coax whereas I always thought I should prefer digital optical.
Why would you want the signal to be converted two times extra? It has to be an area with SEVERE electrical interference for an optical cable to have any usage. Digital cable with the correct impedance does the job. Optical is my last choice for when I only have that output, or I run out of coax inputs.

Today you seldom need any digital cable at all - the HDMI carries it all.

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post #572 of 599 Old 01-26-2015, 06:07 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Nightlord View Post
Why would you want the signal to be converted two times extra? It has to be an area with SEVERE electrical interference for an optical cable to have any usage. Digital cable with the correct impedance does the job. Optical is my last choice for when I only have that output, or I run out of coax inputs.

Today you seldom need any digital cable at all - the HDMI carries it all.
Sorry so you're saying you prefer coax to optical?
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post #573 of 599 Old 01-26-2015, 06:56 AM
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Originally Posted by JRock3x8 View Post
Sorry so you're saying you prefer coax to optical?
Yes, it's superior in all ways unless you live next door to a power transformer or a radiostation.

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post #574 of 599 Old 01-26-2015, 09:48 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Nightlord View Post
Yes, it's superior in all ways unless you live next door to a power transformer or a radiostation.
is this coax like you use for your cable TV? would be bummed if that's so because I just threw SO much of that away...
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post #575 of 599 Old 01-26-2015, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by JRock3x8 View Post
is this coax like you use for your cable TV? would be bummed if that's so because I just threw SO much of that away...
Buy a complete cable from a serious brand that you can be sure adhere to the impedance specs for digital cables.

Normal rca and speaker cables you can do yourself. Digital cable must be exact to specs. I doubt I can give you any names, here in Sweden I stick to Supra cables as I know they can be trusted in that regard.

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post #576 of 599 Old 01-26-2015, 10:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Nightlord View Post
Buy a complete cable from a serious brand that you can be sure adhere to the impedance specs for digital cables.

Normal rca and speaker cables you can do yourself. Digital cable must be exact to specs. I doubt I can give you any names, here in Sweden I stick to Supra cables as I know they can be trusted in that regard.
this was the answer that I was looking for

http://www.monoprice.com/Product?seq...BNsaAqUZ8P8HAQ

with all apologies and I don't mean to offend, I tend to shy away from "serious brands" because you can get 75% of the performance for 25% of the price with off brand. If I were drowning in money I might be more picky but that's just not how I buy stuff.
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post #577 of 599 Old 01-26-2015, 11:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRock3x8 View Post
this was the answer that I was looking for

http://www.monoprice.com/Product?seq...BNsaAqUZ8P8HAQ

with all apologies and I don't mean to offend, I tend to shy away from "serious brands" because you can get 75% of the performance for 25% of the price with off brand. If I were drowning in money I might be more picky but that's just not how I buy stuff.
A serious brand is one who do what they say rather than mumbo jumbo. I use electrical installation wire for speakers, and for interconnects I use well terminated no-nonsense cables of proper specs. I don't regard Monster Cable serious, for instance. I've seen an autopsy of what's inside their boxes.
(I do own cable that has similar function in them, but that doesn't put a ridicolous price for a few added components).

I don't see anything wrong with the cable you linked to, under the premise that it is 75ohm as they say. Price is amazing. I couldn't get anything at all for twice the price and if it is gold plated metal I'd have to go higher. I have heard lf cheap brands that have actually goldplated plastic in the contacts, but monoprice seems to have a good reputation on AVS, so I assume that's not the case.

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post #578 of 599 Old 01-26-2015, 12:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nightlord View Post
A serious brand is one who do what they say rather than mumbo jumbo. I use electrical installation wire for speakers, and for interconnects I use well terminated no-nonsense cables of proper specs. I don't regard Monster Cable serious, for instance. I've seen an autopsy of what's inside their boxes.
(I do own cable that has similar function in them, but that doesn't put a ridicolous price for a few added components).

I don't see anything wrong with the cable you linked to, under the premise that it is 75ohm as they say. Price is amazing. I couldn't get anything at all for twice the price and if it is gold plated metal I'd have to go higher. I have heard lf cheap brands that have actually goldplated plastic in the contacts, but monoprice seems to have a good reputation on AVS, so I assume that's not the case.
sounds like you are talking about "professional" grade. Again, I mean no offense to anyone but I would almost never do that.
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post #579 of 599 Old 01-26-2015, 01:47 PM
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No, just honest, technically sound and no snakeoil added.

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post #580 of 599 Old 01-27-2015, 03:50 AM - Thread Starter
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question : do more expensive projectors do something to eliminate / reduce the "window screen" effect?

I know that I sit entirely too close to my screen (I'm about 10' away from an 11' wide 1080p screen) but I love the ultra-wide field of view. There's something about watching a movie where your peripheral vision is more or less encapsulated by what's on the screen.

What I don't love is the chunkiness / window-screen look of the picture. But you don't notice that when you go to the theater and the effective resolution of their movies isn't that much better than 1080p is it?

So is it just my projector (BenQ 1070W)? Or is something else at play here?
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post #581 of 599 Old 01-28-2015, 12:09 AM
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I don't really know what you mean. Could it be the gitter between pixels you refer to? If you see that from where you sit, you either sit too close, the picture is blown up to big, the proj is unusually poor in this regard - or a combination of them all.

Most cinemas here in Sweden use 1080p. Those that got upgraded typically for 3D HFR for the first Hobbit are 4K, but they are still a minority.

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post #582 of 599 Old 01-28-2015, 08:53 AM
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I'm pretty sure you're just running into the maximum capabilities of your projector. The imaging chip is a DLP DMD (digital micromirror device). It's an array of tiny mirrors that reflect light back toward the screen. The mirrors can't be absolutely next to each other as they have to move independently. The space between the mirrors leaves a grid pattern of black. The larger you expand the image optically, the larger the grid becomes.

Newer, fancier, and more expensive projectors do a better job of hiding that. You might try adjusting the focus as an experiment - the grid should fade, but you may hate the soft focus.
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post #583 of 599 Old 01-30-2015, 09:26 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by HopefulFred View Post
I'm pretty sure you're just running into the maximum capabilities of your projector. The imaging chip is a DLP DMD (digital micromirror device). It's an array of tiny mirrors that reflect light back toward the screen. The mirrors can't be absolutely next to each other as they have to move independently. The space between the mirrors leaves a grid pattern of black. The larger you expand the image optically, the larger the grid becomes.

Newer, fancier, and more expensive projectors do a better job of hiding that. You might try adjusting the focus as an experiment - the grid should fade, but you may hate the soft focus.
that sounds right.
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post #584 of 599 Old 02-13-2015, 07:35 PM - Thread Starter
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how do you guys solve the problem of darkness?

I love a REALLY dark theater when I'm watching a movie but then when the movie's over I need a light to find the remote and/or the light switch

also my question on sand from a few pages back - is that covered in that book that they are selling?

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post #585 of 599 Old 02-16-2015, 07:01 AM
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Originally Posted by JRock3x8 View Post
how do you guys solve the problem of darkness?

I love a REALLY dark theater when I'm watching a movie but then when the movie's over I need a light to find the remote and/or the light switch
You need to remember where you put the remote for the lights.

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post #586 of 599 Old 02-16-2015, 07:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRock3x8 View Post
how do you guys solve the problem of darkness?

I love a REALLY dark theater when I'm watching a movie but then when the movie's over I need a light to find the remote and/or the light switch

also my question on sand from a few pages back - is that covered in that book that they are selling?
http://www.lutron.com/en-US/Products.../Overview.aspx

This is what I use, because my seating is in the other end of the room from the door/light switch. I always have a couple remotes in the cupholder of my main listening position, so it's there. It's pretty nice - hit the switch on the way in and get full lights. Hit the silver circle on the remote at showtime and the lights dim to a preset position, basically one notch above off, then hit it again after the movie and back to full. It was like $30.

I love my iPhone, but it will never replace my turntable.

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post #587 of 599 Old 02-16-2015, 04:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by thrillcat View Post
http://www.lutron.com/en-US/Products.../Overview.aspx

This is what I use, because my seating is in the other end of the room from the door/light switch. I always have a couple remotes in the cupholder of my main listening position, so it's there. It's pretty nice - hit the switch on the way in and get full lights. Hit the silver circle on the remote at showtime and the lights dim to a preset position, basically one notch above off, then hit it again after the movie and back to full. It was like $30.
thanks
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post #588 of 599 Old 03-03-2015, 09:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRock3x8 View Post
how do you guys solve the problem of darkness?

I love a REALLY dark theater when I'm watching a movie but then when the movie's over I need a light to find the remote and/or the light switch

also my question on sand from a few pages back - is that covered in that book that they are selling?
I know you're trying to do this on a budget. You can check out my thread, for some budgeting tips if you like (the link in my signature).

As far as the lights go some have already mentioned Lutron, which is one way to go. Another way is to go Insteon. They can also be controlled by a remote or you can more extravagant (while keeping a budget) and get an insteon hub. You can then control your lighting with a smart phone or even upgrade to ir blaster and a program like iRule which would then do home automation. Meaning you could make a button that says watch a movie, it would then dim the lights, turn on the projector and blu-ray player.

Of course if you go with the Insteon you can have the basics right away and then upgrade later to the more extravagant features.
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post #589 of 599 Old 03-03-2015, 09:06 AM
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The most budget version would be mounting a switch on an extension cord.
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post #590 of 599 Old 03-03-2015, 09:35 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Al Toid View Post
I know you're trying to do this on a budget. You can check out my thread, for some budgeting tips if you like (the link in my signature).

As far as the lights go some have already mentioned Lutron, which is one way to go. Another way is to go Insteon. They can also be controlled by a remote or you can more extravagant (while keeping a budget) and get an insteon hub. You can then control your lighting with a smart phone or even upgrade to ir blaster and a program like iRule which would then do home automation. Meaning you could make a button that says watch a movie, it would then dim the lights, turn on the projector and blu-ray player.

Of course if you go with the Insteon you can have the basics right away and then upgrade later to the more extravagant features.
subbed and thanks - nice to meet people with like sensibilities.

question (and I apologize I have not yet read through the thread) - do you have any idea how much it cost to get the room to its current condition when you started? For me I'm starting with bare unfinished basement and I just don't have any idea what it will cost to get to framed walls with drywall.
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post #591 of 599 Old 03-03-2015, 02:28 PM
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subbed and thanks - nice to meet people with like sensibilities.

question (and I apologize I have not yet read through the thread) - do you have any idea how much it cost to get the room to its current condition when you started? For me I'm starting with bare unfinished basement and I just don't have any idea what it will cost to get to framed walls with drywall.
Well my total budget was $3,500 dollars which includes a projector and screen (I already had the speakers and receiver). I did not have to frame the walls as I started with two semi-finished rooms and made them into one. Truthfully though framing and drywalling is not that expensive. The expense comes in when you are soundproofing. I did not soundproof like most people on here.Instead my walls are insulated with r13 and the ceiling has I think r30(it was already run) and I ran a solid core door. In my house it worked really well. This is not always the case though.

As far as framing goes: A 2x4 8' stud typically costs around $3 and a 12' one costs around $5. 1/2" Drywall costs around $10-13 for a 4' x 8' piece. I would use this calculator to figure out costs.

Get your measurements ready and plug them into the calculator. For example if you want your room to be a 20' by 10', you would have 2 -20' walls and 2 - 10' walls. According to the calculator each 20' wall would need 16 studs and 5 sheets of drywall. Each 10 foot wall would need 2 sheets of drywall and 2 extra feet (just add 1 more sheet of drywall). Then calculate your ceiling area (20' x 10') - in this case would be about 6 pieces of drywall.

Wall Studs - 16 studs (2 walls) ($3) = $96 + 9 studs (2 walls) ($3) = $54. 54=96 =$150
Top and Bottom Studs - 20'walls would need a 12' and 8' - $5+$3 = $8 (2 for top and bottom) (2 for 2 walls) + $5 for 10' wall and bottom) (2 for 2 walls) = $32+$20 = $52
Drywall: 5 sheets (2 for 2 walls) = 10 sheets x $11 = $110 + 5 sheet for two 10' walls ($11) = $55 = $165 + (6 x$11) $66 = $231

Total = $431 before insulation and soundproofing. This also does not include nails or screws or any equipment you may need. Plus you should always assume 20% more than you actually budget for mistakes, bad lumber or unexpected costs. So say $510 for the framing part (assuming a 20' by 10' room). It'll also be more if you choose double ends over single ends on your wall.

Does this help?
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post #592 of 599 Old 03-03-2015, 02:36 PM - Thread Starter
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Does this help?
I need to read the thread and get back to you Don't want to make you repeat a ton of stuff you've already addressed in your thread.

BTW $3500 is an INCREDIBLY reasonable price.
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post #593 of 599 Old 03-03-2015, 03:18 PM - Thread Starter
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neglected to update that I sent my projector in to be fixed - it had a dead pixel about 20% NE of dead center and it was annoying as all hell.

But BenQ took it back, free shipping both ways. Should get it back next weekend and I have been too busy to use my projector last weekend and this weekend so the timing is perfect.
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post #594 of 599 Old 03-03-2015, 04:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRock3x8 View Post
I need to read the thread and get back to you Don't want to make you repeat a ton of stuff you've already addressed in your thread.

BTW $3500 is an INCREDIBLY reasonable price.
Thanks! The reason I did it (besides really wanting a home theater) was to show people they could do the same thing on a limited budget. So I threw some budget tips in there (bold) so that you can see how the budget was kept down. Also some other members have contributed by suggesting spandex AT screen (DIY), etc.

Honestly, my surround sound has never sounded so good. Even my wife has taken notice to the new found clarity and dynamics. She even jumped during U-571 depthcharge bombing. The dedicated room makes all the difference in the world. Remember, you can upgrade some things later (speakers, receiver, projector and even couches). Good Luck to you!
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post #595 of 599 Old Yesterday, 07:21 AM
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Yowza! Two years and 20 pages of "build" thread later and you haven't swung a hammer. It would appear that you took Big's very first post seriously. Al Toid's budget theater should provide some real inspiration. Get building man!
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post #596 of 599 Old Yesterday, 07:24 AM - Thread Starter
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Yowza! Two years and 20 pages of "build" thread later and you haven't swung a hammer. It would appear that you took Big's very first post seriously. Al Toid's budget theater should provide some real inspiration. Get building man!
hahahah - if you'd read it all you'd know why just teasing.

We have not sold our previous house and just don't have the cash for a multi-thousand dollar build. That being said I think you will see some wood coming together in the near future for a riser.
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post #597 of 599 Old Yesterday, 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by JRock3x8 View Post
hahahah - if you'd read it all you'd know why just teasing.

We have not sold our previous house and just don't have the cash for a multi-thousand dollar build. That being said I think you will see some wood coming together in the near future for a riser.
A tough situation for sure. Bang together a couple 2X4's and call it a work in-progress like the rest of us.
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post #598 of 599 Old Today, 03:28 AM - Thread Starter
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A tough situation for sure. Bang together a couple 2X4's and call it a work in-progress like the rest of us.
I appreciate the support.
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post #599 of 599 Unread Today, 12:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADAIR View Post
Great job so far! I look forward to using this as a reference when I start my own budget build.

Also, $560 seems high for a screen when on a budget. Have you considered going the DIY route? The DIY screen forum has some great content.

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/110-diy-screen-section/
110" DIY Spandex AT Screen
A Tale of Two Screens...SF 2.5 4.0 and Spandex, White over Black

The spandex DIY screens seem like a great budget option, and they meet your AT requirements
forgive me for jacking this message from the budget theater thread but I wanted to move the conversation here...

AT Spandex screens - my head is absolutely spinning reading that second thread.

Is there a post somewhere that shows

1) what it looks like start to finish
2) with links to materials - at least the spandex, the wood and the hardware I can find.
3) with approximate costs

and also the conversation about it not being quite white make me really nervous. I really like my blackout cloth screen but of course that is not AT at all...

edit : links for spandex - do they make it bigger though? 60" isn't going to cut it for my screen...

http://spandexworld.com/c3/catalog/product/5954

http://spandexworld.com/c3/catalog/product/795
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