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post #781 of 810 Unread 01-20-2016, 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by JRock3x8 View Post
can't extend kinect - there's a whole thread full of people who have tried to various incomplete results. Kinect and Xbox have to be within 9 feet (3 feet?) of each other.
Based on your floor plan, if you move your equipment rack to the spot where the screen wall door is, you should have enough room to run the Kinect to the rack and connect to the xbox.

Question is though, will you actually have enough room to use the kinect in the theater? You only have about six feet from the screen to the front of the chairs. It looks like you will be blocking your projector anytime you stand up to try and do something. Also, will the connect still work in a dark theater with a projector lighting you from behind? You may have already thought of these and they are not really problems. Just a couple things I thought of.

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post #782 of 810 Unread 01-20-2016, 09:41 AM - Thread Starter
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Based on your floor plan, if you move your equipment rack to the spot where the screen wall door is

Question is though, will you actually have enough room to use the kinect?
I don't want to move the equipment rack there.

That drawing is screwed up - everything - chairs wall etc needs to be moved back 3'

The Kinect is really just for face recognition (sign in) and maybe video chat, not for games. I don't have any experience with the Kinect facing the projector but others do and they say it works.
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post #783 of 810 Unread 01-23-2016, 09:22 AM - Thread Starter
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They're older, but they look solid. I would definitely make a play on these.
The fronts end tomorrow - will make a bid.

These popped on my feed today for the rears :

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Triad-InRoom.../151960179315?

Should I be interested?
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post #784 of 810 Unread 01-23-2016, 11:12 AM
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The fronts end tomorrow - will make a bid.

These popped on my feed today for the rears :

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Triad-InRoom.../151960179315?

Should I be interested?
Those are very good speakers. I actually have two pair of those. I use a pair in my family room and another pair in a small two channel set up in my office. I like them a lot.

For rears, they might work. They are not very sensitive, so they will take some power get singing. They also will not be a great match to the silver or bronze LCRs in terms of timber if that's something that would matter to you (it doesn't really to me.) It's a tough call, the price on the speakers is decent, but the shipping is way too much. If you can work the price down, it might be a good play.

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post #785 of 810 Unread 01-24-2016, 06:58 AM - Thread Starter
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They're older, but they look solid. I would definitely make a play on these.
ok back to the inroom LCR Silver Triads - how high should I go on these? It is exceedingly difficult to get a read on what their "market value" really is as they just don't come around that often.
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post #786 of 810 Unread 01-24-2016, 09:05 AM
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Used Triads typically go for 25% - 30% of retail value. Older series might go for a little less because replacement parts will be harder to come by. You can email Triad with the serials to find out what year they were built. These look solid, but obviously they are used so all the usual caveats go along with that.

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post #787 of 810 Unread 01-24-2016, 06:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Used Triads typically go for 25% - 30% of retail value. Older series might go for a little less because replacement parts will be harder to come by. You can email Triad with the serials to find out what year they were built. These look solid, but obviously they are used so all the usual caveats go along with that.
aaaaand done - the triads are mine!
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post #788 of 810 Unread 01-25-2016, 12:05 PM
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aaaaand done - the triads are mine!
Very nice. Congrats, I think you will like them.

And these might go well with them. Looks like they are practically in your back yard...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Triad-InRoom...UAAOSw8-tWUieO

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post #789 of 810 Unread 01-25-2016, 12:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRock3x8 View Post
aaaaand done - the triads are mine!
Very nice. Congrats, I think you will like them.

And these might go well with them. Looks like they are practically in your back yard...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Triad-InRoom...UAAOSw8-tWUieO
Already on watch list.

Starting to think about going all sconces no cans for lights in theater. Worried about punching holes in my sound proof ceiling. Also thinking about rope lighting for added effect.

Contractor sure is taking his sweet time with that estimate.
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post #790 of 810 Unread 01-25-2016, 12:23 PM
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Already on watch list.

Starting to think about going all sconces no cans for lights in theater. Worried about punching holes in my sound proof ceiling. Also thinking about rope lighting for added effect.

Contractor sure is taking his sweet time with that estimate.
Were you going to do soffits? You can add recessed lights into your soffits without concern for your soundproofed shell. The other option, of course, is backer boxes. Many people have used backer boxes with their recessed lights with great success.

Just sconces might not produce enough light in the space if you ever wanted to do anything other than watch movies and listen to music. It might be fine thought if you just don't want to trip.

And don't forget step lights and outlets around the chairs in your electrical plan.

One other thing that you may want to try and get an estimate on is putting drywall on the underside of the subfloor above the theater. This can greatly reduce the footfall noise that enters the theater. One or two layers of drywall with green glue likely wouldn't break the bank and could really help the noise floor in your theater.

It's starting to come together nicely.

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post #791 of 810 Unread 01-25-2016, 12:32 PM - Thread Starter
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Were you going to do soffits? You can add recessed lights into your soffits without concern for your soundproofed shell. The other option, of course, is backer boxes. Many people have used backer boxes with their recessed lights with great success.

Just sconces might not produce enough light in the space if you ever wanted to do anything other than watch movies and listen to music. It might be fine thought if you just don't want to trip.

And don't forget step lights and outlets around the chairs in your electrical plan.

One other thing that you may want to try and get an estimate on is putting drywall on the underside of the subfloor above the theater. This can greatly reduce the footfall noise that enters the theater. One or two layers of drywall with green glue likely wouldn't break the bank and could really help the noise floor in your theater.

It's starting to come together nicely.
Yah I'm already having nightmares about the cost estimate - I think dry walling the underside of the floor might just push the whole thing out of reach. Also not entirely sure how you avoid puncturing the kitchen floor when you do that.

I have electricity going to the riser. I did forget the stair lights.

We'll have to see what the estimate comes back with. I'm thinking more and more that I don't want to drywall the rest of the basement. Too much cost.
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post #792 of 810 Unread 01-25-2016, 12:42 PM
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Yah I'm already having nightmares about the cost estimate - I think dry walling the underside of the floor might just push the whole thing out of reach. Also not entirely sure how you avoid puncturing the kitchen floor when you do that.

I have electricity going to the riser. I did forget the stair lights.

We'll have to see what the estimate comes back with. I'm thinking more and more that I don't want to drywall the rest of the basement. Too much cost.
Might be a good test to see how he does on the theater. If you like his work you can see how much he would want to just finish the rest of the basement. Hanging drywall is not that difficult, especially if you use a lift. The hard part is finishing it. You could knock out the drywall room by room, then pay the guy to just come back and do the finishing. Any mistakes you might make in hanging get covered by the finishing.

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post #793 of 810 Unread 01-25-2016, 01:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Might be a good test to see how he does on the theater. If you like his work you can see how much he would want to just finish the rest of the basement. Hanging drywall is not that difficult, especially if you use a lift. The hard part is finishing it. You could knock out the drywall room by room, then pay the guy to just come back and do the finishing. Any mistakes you might make in hanging get covered by the finishing.
Agree.

Issues of the day/week aside, thank you so much for all your replies on all these things. Even if I already know the answer a lot of times, it's just really helpful to have someone else tell you
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post #794 of 810 Unread 01-27-2016, 04:03 AM - Thread Starter
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Clips and hat channel are a lot better than RC. Still I'd really consider the cost vs performance of just doing the ceiling. Not sure I see the value.
Can we come back to this for a moment?

The point of DD the ceiling is to keep the theater noise in the basement. Mom doesn't want to hear the kids movies or dads football in the dining room or the kitchen.

I'm also considering split studs between the theater and the bedroom
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post #795 of 810 Unread 01-27-2016, 11:34 AM
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I'd recommend giving Ted or John a call over at The Soundproofing company. Generally accepted principals seem to suggest that soundproofing a room is an all or nothing practice. Every time you you subtract one of the elements, like not using clips or not using putty pads or no backer boxes for lights, you short circuit the whole of your efforts. Think about putting a hole in a fish tank. Sound will find whatever means it can to escape (or enter) your room. If you decouple your ceiling but not your walls, the sound can travel right up your walls and out your room. If you use double drywall and green glue but then cut holes for outlets or lights, the sound will pour out of the holes like water out of the fish tank. It's said that your room will be only as strong as the weakest link in the soundproofing efforts.

That said, Ted or John will be much more qualified than I to evaluate a partial effort. They can recommend very cost effective means to achieve your goals. Double drywall and some insulation, might be good enough so long as your expectations are appropriate. They might also recommend other ways to keep your better half happy. I'm not knowledgeable enough to really comment here.

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post #796 of 810 Unread 01-27-2016, 11:50 AM - Thread Starter
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I'd recommend giving Ted or John a call over at The Soundproofing company.
There is a certain camp on these forums that have only one point of view and there is no in between or half steps or "best alternatives". I've sort of tuned them out at this point because I have three kids to send to college and I'm still going to build a home theater whether it's to the highest accepted standards or not.

Feedback appreciated though.
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post #797 of 810 Unread 01-28-2016, 11:15 AM - Thread Starter
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Jeff's Backer Boxes (for later reference)

BIGmouthinDC - Summer Fun, Just 10 minutes down the Parkway

edit: forget that - @BllDo 's link was waaaaay better...

http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/...im-backer-box/

should I plan on doing backer boxes for ceiling mounted speakers as well? (future proof for atmos, dts:x)

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post #798 of 810 Unread 01-30-2016, 08:35 AM - Thread Starter
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man when it rains it pours - everything showed up at once.

First - The Triads are here, still in bubble wrap - I'm unfamiliar with this speaker connection - what do I need? (Also, HOLY **** those things were heavy!)

edit : looks like those round things unscrew and then you insert the wire?



Second - the missing armrest arrived for my recliners today - but it's 100% leather on both sides, no mounting holes to attach - I tried to find instructions on how to attach but no dice? HELP!

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post #799 of 810 Unread 01-30-2016, 08:49 AM
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Those are five-way binding posts. Take a look at the pic below. Either banana pins or bare wire are fine.


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post #800 of 810 Unread 01-30-2016, 09:17 AM - Thread Starter
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Those are five-way binding posts. Take a look at the pic below. Either banana pins or bare wire are fine.

Thoughts on the chair?

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post #801 of 810 Unread 01-30-2016, 10:18 AM
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Thoughts on the chair?
Do you have a pic of it?

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post #802 of 810 Unread 01-30-2016, 12:54 PM - Thread Starter
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Do you have a pic of it?
Attach right arm arm to Palliser HiFi Chair?
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post #803 of 810 Unread 01-30-2016, 07:32 PM - Thread Starter
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Watched our first movie with the triads. Well those speakers make everything else that I have sound like ****. .

I had them laying sideways on the floor under the screen and it still sounded really great.
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post #804 of 810 Unread 01-31-2016, 06:33 AM - Thread Starter
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OK I've spent 3.5 hours looking for something and I haven't seen anything that I like.

Two questions :

1) What do I need for my false / screen wall? It's just a wood frame to hang the screen and masking panels on right?

2) What do I need to build speaker stands? To me, this should be as simple as two pieces of think plywood and two 2x4's. all the videos I watched were for speaker stands you would have to look at - I have no intention of looking at mine.

Then somewhat related to both - are the subs just sitting on the floor in between the speakers? Does the presence of a stage (subs) lifted off the floor materially impact the sound of bass in the room?

Contractor Update - the electrical guy was not licensed to work in Saint John so we have to get someone else out now...oh well, the closer we get to my bonus pay out (March) the more enthusiastic I will be about starting this project.
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post #805 of 810 Unread 01-31-2016, 06:36 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRock3x8 View Post
aaaaand done - the triads are mine!
Very nice. Congrats, I think you will like them.

And these might go well with them. Looks like they are practically in your back yard...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Triad-InRoom...UAAOSw8-tWUieO
We watched Phil Collins live at montreux tonight and Phil never sounded better. My wife and I both really like Phil. One of the few artists we agree on.
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OK I've spent 3.5 hours looking for something and I haven't seen anything that I like.

Two questions :

1) What do I need for my false / screen wall? It's just a wood frame to hang the screen and masking panels on right?

2) What do I need to build speaker stands? To me, this should be as simple as two pieces of think plywood and two 2x4's. all the videos I watched were for speaker stands you would have to look at - I have no intention of looking at mine.

Then somewhat related to both - are the subs just sitting on the floor in between the speakers? Does the presence of a stage (subs) lifted off the floor materially impact the sound of bass in the room?

Contractor Update - the electrical guy was not licensed to work in Saint John so we have to get someone else out now...oh well, the closer we get to my bonus pay out (March) the more enthusiastic I will be about starting this project.
Bump
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post #807 of 810 Unread Yesterday, 03:16 PM
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The question is exactly ?

The speaker stands ?

You want to weight them down if you can, get them heavy and sturdy. Sand filled is a good option.
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post #808 of 810 Unread Yesterday, 03:28 PM - Thread Starter
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The question is exactly ?

The speaker stands ?

You want to weight them down if you can, get them heavy and sturdy. Sand filled is a good option.
what does that look like?
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post #809 of 810 Unread Today, 05:43 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRock3x8 View Post
aaaaand done - the triads are mine!
Very nice. Congrats, I think you will like them.

And these might go well with them. Looks like they are practically in your back yard...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Triad-InRoom...UAAOSw8-tWUieO
How do you feel about these?

http://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/e11011...3D151971095239
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post #810 of 810 Unread Today, 02:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRock3x8 View Post
OK I've spent 3.5 hours looking for something and I haven't seen anything that I like.

Two questions :

1) What do I need for my false / screen wall? It's just a wood frame to hang the screen and masking panels on right?

2) What do I need to build speaker stands? To me, this should be as simple as two pieces of think plywood and two 2x4's. all the videos I watched were for speaker stands you would have to look at - I have no intention of looking at mine.

Then somewhat related to both - are the subs just sitting on the floor in between the speakers? Does the presence of a stage (subs) lifted off the floor materially impact the sound of bass in the room?
Yeah.. And if you're building a wall, then skip the stands and build speaker shelves into it. I would recommend placing the speakers on soft feet to decouple them no matter what.

Subs should also have soft feet. The placement of subs influence how much/which resonances in the room that will get energized. Not an easy thing to find an optimum for, that is why getting many subs is so efficient, as they will hit different resonances and it will all smoothen out in average. I don't have 8 subs in my living room for playing loud (99.99% of the time at least), I have them to play well.
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