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post #91 of 480 Old 04-18-2013, 05:07 AM
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If your ceiling is 7'-6" before the riser, you should look at using a mini riser in addition to a shorter main riser. It's essentially a 2nd riser that sits just under the footprint of the rear seats. I used one in my build because headroom was getting pretty tight between the main riser and the perimeter soffit.

Have you determined your screen size yet, and if so, how far off the floor are you planning on mounting it?
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post #92 of 480 Old 04-18-2013, 06:14 AM
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I haven't crossed this bridge in my theater, so I may be missing something here, but I'll make a SWAG at it. here's how I would plan to allocate breakers for my theater.

1 - 20 A for lighting. My Grafik Eye is limited to 2,000 W so 2000W/120V = 17 A. The next size up is a 20 A breaker.
1 - 15 A for receptacles in the room
1 - 20 A for amplifiers if you are planning to go big on the audio side. Maybe 2-20A if you are planning to go REALLY big.
1 - 20 A for the equipment stack and this can include the power to the battery backup for the PJ.
1 -15 A for a spare for the stuff that we've overlooked.

That's only five or six single pole slots, so 15 extra slots should be plenty to finish the theater and the rest of the basement.

Dude, are you made of leprechauns? Cause that was awesome!

The Plains Theater Has Begun
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post #93 of 480 Old 04-18-2013, 06:20 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

If your ceiling is 7'-6" before the riser, you should look at using a mini riser in addition to a shorter main riser. It's essentially a 2nd riser that sits just under the footprint of the rear seats. I used one in my build because headroom was getting pretty tight between the main riser and the perimeter soffit.

Have you determined your screen size yet, and if so, how far off the floor are you planning on mounting it?

can you pint me to some examples of your riser comment? I'm not following that at all.

My screen is going to be a phased approach. I'm planning on painting the back wall first with the screen goo, then later putting in a more formal stage.

I have no idea where the screen will be placed. So just throwing numbers out there, if it's a 10' screen and it's centered, I would have a foot at the top and bottom.

I have really given this zero thought though - my bigger concern at the moment is figuring out to build the soundproof ventilated and wired box and once I understand that I'll move on to the other things.

Also, I say this again and again but one more time, this isn't going to start any time this year. This is all just a learning exercise at the moment but I'm very committed to going through with it.
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post #94 of 480 Old 04-18-2013, 06:21 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post

I haven't crossed this bridge in my theater, so I may be missing something here, but I'll make a SWAG at it. here's how I would plan to allocate breakers for my theater.

1 - 20 A for lighting. My Grafik Eye is limited to 2,000 W so 2000W/120V = 17 A. The next size up is a 20 A breaker.
1 - 15 A for receptacles in the room
1 - 20 A for amplifiers if you are planning to go big on the audio side. Maybe 2-20A if you are planning to go REALLY big.
1 - 20 A for the equipment stack and this can include the power to the battery backup for the PJ.
1 -15 A for a spare for the stuff that we've overlooked.

That's only five or six single pole slots, so 15 extra slots should be plenty to finish the theater and the rest of the basement.

that;s exactly what I wanted - thanks!
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post #95 of 480 Old 04-18-2013, 06:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRock3x8 View Post

...........
Also, I say this again and again but one more time, this isn't going to start any time this year. This is all just a learning exercise at the moment but I'm very committed to going through with it.

You are probably getting a warmer reception BECAUSE you are planning a year in advance. All too often threads are started with a ton of questions and the builder is planning to start framing in a few days. That's sort of a ready, fire, aim approach. You're going about it the right way.

Spaceman is talking about a "booster" for your couch. Let's say you build an 8" riser at the back of your room. Now, to get another few inches of height, you build a platform that's 4" high that you couch sits on (this mini riser fits under your couch) so that your couch is higher up than it would have been normally. You end up with a 12" riser, but you've only lost 8" of head room.

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post #96 of 480 Old 04-18-2013, 06:33 AM
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Quote:
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can you pint me to some examples of your riser comment? I'm not following that at all.

Link to mini riser
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post #97 of 480 Old 04-18-2013, 07:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post

I haven't crossed this bridge in my theater, so I may be missing something here, but I'll make a SWAG at it. here's how I would plan to allocate breakers for my theater.

1 - 20 A for lighting. My Grafik Eye is limited to 2,000 W so 2000W/120V = 17 A. The next size up is a 20 A breaker.
1 - 15 A for receptacles in the room
1 - 20 A for amplifiers if you are planning to go big on the audio side. Maybe 2-20A if you are planning to go REALLY big.
1 - 20 A for the equipment stack and this can include the power to the battery backup for the PJ.
1 -15 A for a spare for the stuff that we've overlooked.

That's only five or six single pole slots, so 15 extra slots should be plenty to finish the theater and the rest of the basement.

LOL, you must be going to power a stadium. What you described for a single home theater room is about what I have for my entire whole house. When I bought the house the builder was getting power for the basement from an upstairs bedroom. I installed for the basement one 20 amp breaker for plugs and one 15 amp breaker for lights and have never tripped a breaker even running my power tools and compressor let alone my home theater equipment. As long as you follow code and don't put too many things on one circuit you will be just fine.
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post #98 of 480 Old 04-18-2013, 10:27 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

Link to mini riser

ok i need to process this - not making sense immediately because it looks like the riser is only 2" or so and I'm not following how that gets your back row clearance to see over the front row.

thanks to JPA for kind words - I'm big on planning ahead so you all are appealing to my practical side smile.gif
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post #99 of 480 Old 04-18-2013, 10:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRock3x8 View Post

ok i need to process this - not making sense immediately because it looks like the riser is only 2" or so and I'm not following how that gets your back row clearance to see over the front row.

It's not a stand-alone riser. It is used in addition to a standard riser. For example, let's say the calculator says you need a 13" riser, but a low ceiling only allows for a 10" riser. You build a full-size 10" riser, and then a smaller 3" riser that sits COMPLETELY under the seats. That way, when you're standing it's like you're on a 10" riser but when you sit it's like you're on a 13" riser.

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post #100 of 480 Old 04-18-2013, 10:48 AM
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It's like putting longer legs on your couch.

Dude, are you made of leprechauns? Cause that was awesome!

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post #101 of 480 Old 04-18-2013, 10:51 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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It's like putting longer legs on your couch.

doesnt that make it uncomfortable to sit on?
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post #102 of 480 Old 04-18-2013, 10:55 AM
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How so? There's a pretty wide variation in chair heights anyway (think kitchen tables) and you'll be reclined anyway. So even short people will have their feet supported.

Dude, are you made of leprechauns? Cause that was awesome!

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post #103 of 480 Old 04-18-2013, 11:02 AM
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The mini riser (or booster riser) is only 3" tall, but it sits on a 12 3/4" main riser, allowing the back row to sit 15 3/4" above the main floor. If I had built a 15 3/4" high main riser, I would not have had sufficient headroom when walking under the perimeter soffit, so the mini riser allowed me to raise just the seats to the required height without losing any headroom. When you walk in front of those seats, you are walking on the 12 3/4" high riser. The 3" boost occurs just under the seats themselves. Make sense?

You can see it better in this elevation. The man standing directly in front of the rear seats is standing on the 12 3/4" riser while the seats themselves sit 3" higher on the mini-riser.


A 3" boost is about as high as I would go. I have long legs so it's not too bad when not reclined, but legs of shorter guests would dangle a bit. The 3" boost came from 2x4s on edge topped with 2 layers of 3/4" ply. (a little different than the drawing above)
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post #104 of 480 Old 04-18-2013, 03:46 PM - Thread Starter
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thats a really awesome drawing. so as I look at the arthouse cinema for example - i don't think his riser is anywhere near that tall? I'll be damned - 2x12...

ok I get it - I'm on board.
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post #105 of 480 Old 04-19-2013, 03:05 AM - Thread Starter
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boy its going to be real rough to get four seats wide into my theater especially if I want the entrance to be in the rear. Seems like I will have to go 3 front, 3 back. Just drew it up in sketchup this morning and it is crazy tight next to the four seat model from the warehouse.

looking at this link and scratching my head - why would someone buy new theater row seating if these used are so readily available for a fraction of the cost?
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post #106 of 480 Old 04-19-2013, 04:57 AM - Thread Starter
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Sketchup and I need to find a way to coexist cuz right now I think he's a little b**** and I'm sure he says the same about me...

Anyways...that's neither here nor there smile.gif

First draft render of my home theater - there's a lot wrong here but just trying to put some "furniture in the dollhouse".


HT0419a by jcwillia1, on Flickr

and here's the 3d model :

sketchup is a piece of poo
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post #107 of 480 Old 04-19-2013, 06:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post

I haven't crossed this bridge in my theater, so I may be missing something here, but I'll make a SWAG at it. here's how I would plan to allocate breakers for my theater.

1 - 20 A for lighting. My Grafik Eye is limited to 2,000 W so 2000W/120V = 17 A. The next size up is a 20 A breaker.
1 - 15 A for receptacles in the room
1 - 20 A for amplifiers if you are planning to go big on the audio side. Maybe 2-20A if you are planning to go REALLY big.
1 - 20 A for the equipment stack and this can include the power to the battery backup for the PJ.
1 -15 A for a spare for the stuff that we've overlooked.

That's only five or six single pole slots, so 15 extra slots should be plenty to finish the theater and the rest of the basement.

Quote:
Originally Posted by macfan View Post

LOL, you must be going to power a stadium. What you described for a single home theater room is about what I have for my entire whole house. When I bought the house the builder was getting power for the basement from an upstairs bedroom. I installed for the basement one 20 amp breaker for plugs and one 15 amp breaker for lights and have never tripped a breaker even running my power tools and compressor let alone my home theater equipment. As long as you follow code and don't put too many things on one circuit you will be just fine.

Seems like a bit of overkill to me too, but does depend on how much equipment you are going to be using. I have two dedicated 20A circuits for my HT. One is for the lights, and the other for the equipment. I haven't had any power problems so far. Granted I'm not running a bunch of dedicated amps or anything fancy. When the theater is in use it's just the AVR, Blu-Ray, Sub and PJ that are pulling juice. They are all hooked into an APC J10 power conditioner/UPS, so that manages the power. Bottom line is, size the number of circuits to what your power needs will be.
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post #108 of 480 Old 04-19-2013, 06:42 AM - Thread Starter
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more to the point with the amount of physical space that the HT is going to take it is highly unlikely that I will run out of juice to do pretty much any thing down there...
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post #109 of 480 Old 04-19-2013, 06:42 AM
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Check out the Fusion Jives. You can get four across in 115".
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post #110 of 480 Old 04-19-2013, 06:49 AM - Thread Starter
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not to offend anyone but I think default home theater furniture colors/styles suck. The Black Vinyl Pleather just doesn't fit at all with our decoarting tastes.
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post #111 of 480 Old 04-19-2013, 07:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GWCR View Post


Seems like a bit of overkill to me too, but does depend on how much equipment you are going to be using. I have two dedicated 20A circuits for my HT. One is for the lights, and the other for the equipment. I haven't had any power problems so far. Granted I'm not running a bunch of dedicated amps or anything fancy. When the theater is in use it's just the AVR, Blu-Ray, Sub and PJ that are pulling juice. They are all hooked into an APC J10 power conditioner/UPS, so that manages the power. Bottom line is, size the number of circuits to what your power needs will be.

I agree that it would be overkill from a power handling standpoint, but I think there are other reasons for dedicated circuits. Obviously the lights and receptacles in the room need to be on separate circuits. I would personally rather have my rack on a separate circuit than the receptacles, so that's three circuits. I've seen lots of threads where people put there dedicated amps on a separate circuit, so that's four, and then the same for the subs, which would be five. Again, for any sort of reasonable HT (if there is such a thing), three circuits is probably more than enough, but just for back of the envelope sort of estimation with no details about the room or gear, I'd shoot for five circuits. I'd rather have too many than not enough.

Dude, are you made of leprechauns? Cause that was awesome!

The Plains Theater Has Begun
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post #112 of 480 Old 04-19-2013, 08:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post

Obviously the lights and receptacles in the room need to be on separate circuits

While preferred, I don't think it's necessary/required. My home was built in 2006 and the majority of the rooms have their light switches and receptacles on the same breakers.

If you have room in your box to keep them separate, I see no reason not to.
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post #113 of 480 Old 04-19-2013, 08:29 AM
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Agreed. It's a personal preference, and for me, I'd like to have my lights on in the room while I'm wiring up my receptacles. Realistically, that's probably the last time it would be of any concern.

How do automated lighting controllers like having receptacles on the same circuit as the lighting loads?

Dude, are you made of leprechauns? Cause that was awesome!

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post #114 of 480 Old 04-19-2013, 08:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRock3x8 View Post

boy its going to be real rough to get four seats wide into my theater especially if I want the entrance to be in the rear. Seems like I will have to go 3 front, 3 back. Just drew it up in sketchup this morning and it is crazy tight next to the four seat model from the warehouse.

Yeah, don't cram too much into the room. And really think about how much seating you'll actually use. I have seating for 12, and invite lots of folks for movie nights, but many times only use 4-6 seats. Only once or twice have I filled it up (where I had to bring in one more chair for me!).
Quote:
looking at this link and scratching my head - why would someone buy new theater row seating if these used are so readily available for a fraction of the cost?

Same reason used couches and other seating go for cheap - they get abused and suffer from wear and tear. If you can get ones in good condition, great! But you may need one of these:



wink.gif

Jeff

Rock Creek Theater -- CIH, Panamorph, Martin Logan, SVS PB2000, Carada Masquerade, Grafik Eye, Bar table, Green Glue, JVC RS50 
Theater build photos: http://photobucket.com/autor-ht

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post #115 of 480 Old 04-19-2013, 09:50 AM - Thread Starter
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thanks Jeff - that's good to know on the seating count. Minimum I need five for my family and I guess if I really think about it (other than birthday parties) we haven't hosted a whole ton of parties and I'm not usually a guy who is really in to having a ton of people over.

I would think that seating (other than height concerns) is the one thing that's fairly flexible in a HT
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post #116 of 480 Old 04-19-2013, 10:23 AM - Thread Starter
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new questions - bass traps and securing walls

Bass Traps : what are they? where do they go? What purpose do they serve? I've read a lot about them in various threads so I'm like 50% of the way there but I'm hoping you guys can cement my understanding.

Securing Walls : The walls are 2x4's, drywall and green glue - what do they attach to? Do I nail the 2x4's straight to the joists overhead? I would think that would be bad for sound isolation but are RSIC clips strong enough to hold the walls?
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post #117 of 480 Old 04-19-2013, 10:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post

Agreed. It's a personal preference, and for me, I'd like to have my lights on in the room while I'm wiring up my receptacles. Realistically, that's probably the last time it would be of any concern.

How do automated lighting controllers like having receptacles on the same circuit as the lighting loads?

My GrafikEye is on the same 20A circuit for the receptacles. All my equipment (rack, PJ & sub as well via PowerBridges) is on another 20A circuit. And yes, doing it over (the whole house) I'd have added another 15A circuit for the convenience receptacles to avoid the "working in the dark" issue(s). I handled that during construction with a worklight on the rack circuit, which was needed anyway...

Rock Creek Theater -- CIH, Panamorph, Martin Logan, SVS PB2000, Carada Masquerade, Grafik Eye, Bar table, Green Glue, JVC RS50 
Theater build photos: http://photobucket.com/autor-ht

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post #118 of 480 Old 04-19-2013, 10:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post

I agree that it would be overkill from a power handling standpoint, but I think there are other reasons for dedicated circuits. Obviously the lights and receptacles in the room need to be on separate circuits. I would personally rather have my rack on a separate circuit than the receptacles, so that's three circuits. I've seen lots of threads where people put there dedicated amps on a separate circuit, so that's four, and then the same for the subs, which would be five. Again, for any sort of reasonable HT (if there is such a thing), three circuits is probably more than enough, but just for back of the envelope sort of estimation with no details about the room or gear, I'd shoot for five circuits. I'd rather have too many than not enough.

True. One of my favorite sayings is, "Some is good, more is better!" rolleyes.gif

There isn't anything in here that I don't agree with. In fact, if I would do one thing differently in my HT, I would have one more circuit for the receptacles (total of 3). As it is, my receptacles are on the same circuit as the rack. There shouldn't be much power pulled from the receptacles during a movie in my HT anyway, unless people are constantly adjusting their seats (which would be really annoying and I may have to smack them if they do tongue.gif). If the goal is at some point to have separate amps, etc, then definitely add the extra circuits now. It can be done later, but much easier and cost effective to do when there aren't any walls. No rule that says you ever have to hook them up unless you want/need to. Future proof as much as is practical.
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post #119 of 480 Old 04-19-2013, 10:57 AM
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Quote:
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not to offend anyone but I think default home theater furniture colors/styles suck. The Black Vinyl Pleather just doesn't fit at all with our decoarting tastes.

+1... You'll see a lot of black leather (real, "bonded" or otherwise) because that's the in-stock color for most of the less-expensive seating models. And therefore it's also the cheapest color - anything else will cost more...

Don't overlook a microfabric seat instead of leather (of whatever color). The leather recliners look nice, and I went with them out of concern for spill-resistance (I've had two full wine spills so far, and let's not talk about the popcorn), but with fabric protection factored in, I'd consider non-leather in the future because it's more comfortable, IMO...

Jeff

Rock Creek Theater -- CIH, Panamorph, Martin Logan, SVS PB2000, Carada Masquerade, Grafik Eye, Bar table, Green Glue, JVC RS50 
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post #120 of 480 Old 04-19-2013, 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by JRock3x8 View Post

thanks Jeff - that's good to know on the seating count. Minimum I need five for my family and I guess if I really think about it (other than birthday parties) we haven't hosted a whole ton of parties and I'm not usually a guy who is really in to having a ton of people over.

I would think that seating (other than height concerns) is the one thing that's fairly flexible in a HT

Well, yes and no. I mean, the room size and your choice of seating style will dictate the number of seats and the layout. Everything else should be figured from there. Distances from the seats to the screen will give you the screen size and speaker placement locations. Screen size will give you projector placement (although there's a lot of play in most PJs, so usually not too much of an issue) and so forth...

So figure out your seating, the rest of the design will be based on that.

Jeff

Rock Creek Theater -- CIH, Panamorph, Martin Logan, SVS PB2000, Carada Masquerade, Grafik Eye, Bar table, Green Glue, JVC RS50 
Theater build photos: http://photobucket.com/autor-ht

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