Shermer Theater - Construction Wrapping Up - Page 34 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews

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Old 03-09-2016, 12:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by BllDo View Post
Is this behind the screen for active subs?



When you take any conditioned indoor air and send it outside, your house has to make up that deficit. That's done by sucking in outdoor unconditioned air. That makes your HVAC system work harder. If he doesn't want to put that air into the return (strange), you can always dump it into the office.

Edit: This certainly isn't a terrible thing to do, just that there might be better/other options.
HVAC guy is on board - he wants to know if my town's code police will allow it.

Code Police SAYS....

NO SOUP FOR YOU!!!

"Exhaust fans shall vent to the exterior/outdoors. The duct shall be properly terminated to the outdoors and shall be protected with a louver, grill or screen. If the fan duct is in an unconditioned space, like the attic, than the duct shall be insulated.

Follow the fan manufactures listing and printed installation instructions."

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Old 03-09-2016, 04:03 PM - Thread Starter
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We had an abrupt change of plans today when we realized what the headroom situation was going to be on the riser at 12"

We're no thinking about an 8" high riser coupled with a 4" tall mini riser.

Question - at 4" do I need to leave a "footstool" in front (basically extend the mini riser forward) for people to rest their feet - I'm just guessing that 4" will leave a lot of people with their feet dangling
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Old 03-09-2016, 05:11 PM
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Old 03-09-2016, 05:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eng-399 View Post

I would have like the picture above if your going to go the Buttkicker route.
How far does that mini riser extend in front of the chairs?

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Old 03-09-2016, 05:24 PM - Thread Starter
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I think my contractor is planning to build the riser tomorrow before the drywall goes up. Should I stop him and why?
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Old 03-09-2016, 05:38 PM
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When Jeff built the White oaks cinema they drywalled first then built the riser. I did the opposite I built my riser first them drywalled . I'm not sure which way would be better but for soundproofing your room the stage would need to be done after drywall is up. Hopefully someone can jump in and give a more accurate answer. The way your describing how your room is being built I was thinking your going to do something like the picture above because of tactile buttkickers.
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Old 03-09-2016, 05:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRock3x8 View Post
How far does that mini riser extend in front of the chairs?
@rms8 ?

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Old 03-09-2016, 06:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by BllDo View Post
@rms8 ?
my choices are few on this so I'm going to build it 1 foot bigger than it needs to be to support the chairs and then we will move the chairs back and forth to our liking. Some of the mini riser may stick out the back.

my wife is concerned about walking room in front of the riser so she thinks we need 18" of walking space with no mini riser - I think you only need 12". By building the mini riser 48" deep we can cover both possibilities.
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Old 03-09-2016, 06:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eng-399 View Post
When Jeff built the White oaks cinema they drywalled first then built the riser. I did the opposite I built my riser first them drywalled . I'm not sure which way would be better but for soundproofing your room the stage would need to be done after drywall is up. Hopefully someone can jump in and give a more accurate answer. The way your describing how your room is being built I was thinking your going to do something like the picture above because of tactile buttkickers.
I have no butt kickers and no stage so we are ok to build the riser before drywall?
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Old 03-09-2016, 06:35 PM
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So are you going to do dd and green glue with clips and channels on your walls and ceiling. If so pm bigmouthindc and get his advice about the riser. I don't want to give bad information if your going that route.
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Old 03-09-2016, 06:40 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by eng-399 View Post
So are you going to do dd and green glue with clips and channels on your walls and ceiling. If so pm bigmouthindc and get his advice about the riser. I don't want to give bad information if your going that route.
I think I have ignored enough of jeffs advice where he doesn't feel like giving it anymore.

Double drywall on the ceiling with resilient channel not clips. Regular drywall except for back wall - split stud.
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Old 03-09-2016, 06:49 PM
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If you are concerned about soundproofing, the conventional logic is to build both riser and stage after drywall so that you can build them inside the drywall shell and 1/4" - 1/2" away from the wall.

Assuming you are going to be filling the riser with fluffy insulation, check out section 5 below

Bring Your Home Theater to New Heights ("The Riser Article", HTB, Erskine 2003)

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Old 03-09-2016, 07:01 PM
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Shermer Theater - Construction Time - Help Needed

Ok so you are doing dd and channels them that being the case I would do what BilDo says above this post.
I know I've said this to you before but your about 45 mins away from me. If you want Saturday late afternoon to night time your more then welcome to swing by if you have time and see how I did my room. I think you would get a better understanding about things and how to do rope lights or Rgb led lighting in your soffits. Also with the height your riser is going to be. I have my first row on the ground and second set of seats on a riser and so on. Pm me if your interested and if not no big deal. Talking in person and seeing examples might make more sense.
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Old 03-09-2016, 08:30 PM
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If you are not doing complete isolation on your ceiling and all 4 walls, it doesn't make any difference if your riser is framed (even touching your framed walls) before you drywall.


If you were doing complete isolation on your ceiling and all 4 walls, you DD/GG first, then build your riser (& stage) inside the shell, spaced 1/2" away from the walls.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

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Old 03-10-2016, 03:37 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by schmidtwi View Post
If you are not doing complete isolation on your ceiling and all 4 walls, it doesn't make any difference if your riser is framed (even touching your framed walls) before you drywall.


If you were doing complete isolation on your ceiling and all 4 walls, you DD/GG first, then build your riser (& stage) inside the shell, spaced 1/2" away from the walls.
and I'm not so I'm going to let this go.
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Old 03-10-2016, 04:12 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRock3x8 View Post

Before I get started on my "thesis", thank you all who replied so so much for sharing your knowledge, experience and expertise - I would have never even started this project if not for all the responses on this thread. The information I have gathered on this forum has allowed me to separate what a salesman would sell me vs what is really important to me.


ok I'm not sure I agree on the drywall before riser thing, er rather I'm not sure it matters to me and here's why...


First and foremost - We are not loud speaker people. As I said before, I don't think we've ever cracked 90db and that's when the theater was COMPLETELY open to the rest of the basement. Now that it's enclosed I can't see us going even that high.

Second if you look at where the riser is adjacent too, none of those areas need sound protection. (Yes I realize that I'm in experienced with sound proofing and maybe even incorrect, but I'm also balancing cost and functionality here...) - the riser is bordered by 1) the stairwell and gym, 2) my unfinished office (also protected by 2x6 split stud wall) and 3) the insulated concrete wall to the outside. I'm not really concerned about _direct_ sound going in any of those directions and I don't "think" we will be generating enough energy to worry about indirect sound waves having much of an impact escaping the theater.

Third, I'm trying to wrap my head around how the riser filled with insulation is going to be any different than a the riser with insulation coupled to drywall.

Finally, my contractor is sort of doing me a favor. He had initially bid on this project thinking he was going to do the entire basement and then I backed down to just doing the theater so I'm trying not to be "ticky tacky" with him if I can avoid it or at least not without good reason.



If I'm way off base and this is really critical and I'm missing it, please let me know.

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Old 03-10-2016, 04:57 AM - Thread Starter
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Progress report.
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Old 03-10-2016, 07:29 PM - Thread Starter
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Theater construction porn!!! Get your theater construction porn here!!!




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Old 03-10-2016, 07:40 PM - Thread Starter
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Pictures.
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Old 03-11-2016, 03:09 AM - Thread Starter
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so more variances from the plan they put the HVAC supplies in the ceiling...

sigh, at this point we just have to keep moving. I've already done enough with this to push the budget well past my estimate. I do really wish that work wasn't so nasty so that I could be here for any and all questions but alas, work has been and continues to be nasty.

Will I get better results if I stuff rockwool vs pink fluffy behind those HVAC supplies? I feel like the answer is no but I just want to keep asking.



the good news however is that my return vent has been relocated!!! yaaaaaaay!!!! at least now my theater can be (mostly) symmetrical! We still have to box that damn drain pipe but it's far enough back that it will just be a nuisance for the rope lighting and will not derail the entire damn project.


R-11 or R-13 in the walls?

edit : looks like no appreciable difference for sound proofing : R11 v.s. R13 in 2x4 walls?

should I express a preference for a door? All doors are being cut for 36" - I need two doors that will slow down if not stop sound. (Solid core)

why don't these come in black?

http://www.homedepot.com/b/Doors-Win...%2Bdoor?NCNI-5

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Old 03-11-2016, 04:48 AM - Thread Starter
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I've never seen split stud done this way but it should still do the job.
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Old 03-11-2016, 05:50 PM - Thread Starter
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8" Riser

I can stand on it and not hit my head on the hvac. Win.
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Old 03-11-2016, 05:51 PM - Thread Starter
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They used by 2x2 strips to lower the ceiling so as not to mess with plumbing or natural gas line.
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Old 03-12-2016, 02:27 PM - Thread Starter
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I would be lying if I said everything was going perfectly but I'm mostly getting what I'm asking for so I'll keep my quibbles to myself
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Old 03-12-2016, 02:35 PM - Thread Starter
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theater is fully framed - walk around from all four corners shown below.

that's the mini riser btw in the front row there - that will get moved up to the riser once the elec and inspection is done.
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Old 03-12-2016, 02:41 PM - Thread Starter
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the first pic is from the "office" looking at the back of the theater including the AV closet.

second pic behind the frame wall - I thought they did a really nice job of framing against an unfinished wall.

the third pic is the 2x4 wood backing for my projector (lol, overkill much?)

fourth pic is the framing they did on the drain pipe from the kitchen.

my plan (after electrician and the inspection) is to cram as much insulation into every nook and cranny of this theater before the drywaller comes.
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Old 03-12-2016, 02:55 PM - Thread Starter
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ok so after 4 fairly frenetic days, I have new problems that I need help with


1)
The carpenter / contractor doesn't want to come back to place the insulation in the ceiling. Which is fine by me because I think he would do a pretty lousy job of it.

So how do I keep the insulation from falling out of the ceiling? And should I put R-19 up there? And the walls are R-11?

And when I'm insulating the outside walls, how do I keep the insulation standing up in the wall? I know you can used faced insulation and staple it to the wood but that's so much more expensive.


2)
After convincing me not to buy the server rack, he came back today and told me he had no ideas on how to build an affordable component rack in the AV closet despite having pretty much all the room in the world to work with. Color me more than a bit irritated. Aren't there any simple cheap wood kits that I can use to build my component case? I can use my old stand until I get a new one but that thing traps heat a little too well.
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Old 03-12-2016, 03:53 PM
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Insulation batts are sold in sizes that squeeze gently into standard wall and ceiling construction. In places where they want to sag or you want insurance against sagging you can use insulation supports. The supports are wire (similar to coat hanger) cut long enough that you have to bow or bend them slightly to get them between two studs. They jamb in there nicely and hold the insulation batts from sagging. Google "insulation supports" or "insulation hangers" - I think you will find that the big box has them.

There are no cheap ways to rack-mount anything, I'm afraid. But I'm sure you can find shelving solutions, like cabinet walls with predrilled holes for shelf pins. Home depot stocks something called "Melamine White Shelf Drilled Board"
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Old 03-13-2016, 05:49 AM
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The framing in of the screen wall and I assume the plan to leave that area unfinished is a big mistake. I have no love for your carpenter. They probably laughed all the way home.

You asked about racks, they make "Knock Down" equipment racks, here is one brand: http://www.middleatlantic.com/produc...own-racks.aspx

you could stack two of these: http://bswusa.com/Equipment-Racks-Mi...K20-P3697.aspx


I'm assuming this is blocking for a projector mount. If you add channel and then the drywall you will have an air gap that can be crushed when you tighten the mount lag bolts, proceed cautiously.


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Old 03-13-2016, 07:20 AM
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Some rack in wall pics, the rack sticks out 2 inches so it is flush with the acoustic wall treatments. Bacon Race







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