Originally Posted by manfrog
Ok will look at Big's backer box thoughts and look to use the Ron cans vs. new build. If I recall I just didn't understand the "reach in and connect the Romex" line....how does the can stay put?
And I thought I should get IC rated and haven't seen much at HD in the Ron format that is IC rated.
Any reason (other than $ you went IB1clip vs whisper/GG clip)?
You do all your own work?
I should add the doors and windows...yes weak point but that is side of the house is my backyard so not sso concerned about noise going out that way (big yard
). I have crawlspace beneath and joists that run North/South but the adjoining rooms are on the East side of this room - so flanking is a little less concerning (based on what I have read and been told)
Been busy for a while, sorry for not replying sooner.
BIG leaves a few feet of romex coiled up high in the box, then drills the holes for the light after the ceiling is up, reaches in and pulls down the romex, connects it to the light, then pops the light up into the hole. He just screws through the pot light housing sideways into the 1 1/4" thick drywall. The light weighs little and the drywall is strong enough to hold the screws.
With a backer box, the insulation butts up to the backer box, not the pot light, so you don't need an Insulation Contact pot lights as no insulation is touching that actual pot light.
I went with IB-1s due to price and value for dollar. The IB-1s are considered the Honda of Clips, and I've given up owning Ferrari's long ago. I couldn't justify spending 3X or more for something that was only a "little" better.
I've done all my own work with a few small exceptions.
-I had a plumber run my water and drainage to the bar area as part of a reno.
-I had an electrician verify all my electrical work. He identified the circuits on the panel, but I pulled all the romex and connected the breakers to all the boxes, and installed receptacles and switches including 3-ways.
-I will have a Taper/Mudder handle the taping and mudding. I've since learned how, however I perceive he does good work for cheap which I can't say for any other trade around here.
The concern with windows and doors is not sound going through them to your yard, but weak points in your walls where sound enters then and makes a 90 degree turn, going up/down/around to adjoining floors/walls, etc. Flanking paths. Those windows are attached to the framing. You shake the window, and the window shakes the framing, which is holding up your upper floor. Have someone knock on the window... hear it upstairs? Your sub will similarly do this also. This is why the dedicated room with no windows, and 1 doorway with 2 beefy communicating (1 swings out, next swings in) doors is basically a necessity for many here as a starting point... minimal flanking opportunity.
I will have to live with these compromises, however they will be the only weak points. I could (but likely never will) build window plugs, and upgrade my doorway to double communicating doors. I'm not that enthusiastic about it all just yet, and I don't even have to ask the boss if she'd let me cover the windows with plugs.
Regarding my progress, first drywall layer is done, and I just hauled home drywall for the second layer yesterday. I can assure everyone that 12' long 54" wide drywall is a PITA to carry and bend in through doorways to get in the house. I bought 3 sheets of this dimension to solve some awkward seams in a few spots. Let's hope it doesn't break on the lift this weekend!