Swerve's 9.2 Media room and Full Bar build - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 84 Old 04-12-2013, 12:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Swerve's Media Room and Bar build

After reading tons here, I think it's best I start a thread to get answers to questions that I'll have in order to make sure I don't make any mistakes along the way that I'll regret later. It's amazing the wealth of information, sound advice, and support there is on avsforum. Hopefully this build thread will help someone else in the future as other threads before this one have helped me.

I'm building a multipurpose media room and bar for watching mostly TV and Movies as well as general entertaining. It's a 400 sq ft L shaped room where the larger space is for AV and the rest is for the bar. This is in a portion of the basement of a house built in 1962. It's a wood framed construction with 2x4 walls 16" OC and 2x8 joists 16" OC, and is almost 4' below grade.

Here's the layout:


Here's some pics of the room pre demo:

Standing at the entrance facing the screen wall:


opposite end of the room looking back at the entrance:


same spot looking over to the old bar.... just a little retro


I've since had this post removed and a Parallam beam installed to carry the load for an open concept space


Objectives:
-Sufficiently soundproofed between floors so that for now the kid remains asleep in an above bedroom. And later- that the wife and I don't wake up when the kids are down there with friends.
-Utilize highest return on investment soundproofing techniques. ie, building a room within a room isn't an option
-Video: I will be running a 63" Plasma and a Projector and a 106" motorized screen setup
-Audio, I've wired for 9.2 for Front Highs as the L shape makes a Front Wide Right just about impossible, but this is not a dedicated HT anyway, so the extra speakers are really more for the heck of it than trying to achieve good 9.2...

Constraints:
-Not a dedicated theater room; it must be multipurpose and there will be concessions made on finishing materials to satisfy wife's aesthetics requirements
-Funds are limited, but I don't have a fixed budget either. Savings for this room come oh so slowly, so to build an amazing room would take an amazing amount of time. I'm not sure I want to wait to go deaf and blind before completing the room!
-91" Ceiling height rough, 7'4" est finished height-Support beam between media and bar area is 9 3/4" tall, thus reducing ceiling of the soffit containing it and the duct trunk to 83" rough, 6'6" est finished height
-Projector must be near opposite wall 20' away and not mid ceiling
-2 6x2.5' Windows on west wall
-4x3' window and exterior door on east wall
-Fixed layout (plumbing and electrical are done)
-8x8" square opening on exterior wall necessary for water pressure regulator and outside spigot shutoff access.
-Must have pot lights - 15 of them!
-All DIY (except mudding and taping)

Current Soundproofing plan
-Insulation in all joist and wall cavities
-5/8" Drywall + 1.5 tubes Green Glue/sheet + 5/8" Drywall on all ceilings and source side walls
-1.5 tubes of GG/sheet and 1/2" drywall added within stud wall cavities to receiving side of interior (mimicing soundproofingcompany.com's SPC Ceiling Solution 4)
-Clips and Hat channel on ceiling, soffit, and interior walls that are not double studded-GG SilenSeal all drywall perimeter joints, electrical box perforations, pot light perforations
-Gardner Bender Duct Seal on electrical boxes for outlets, switches, and bar pendant lights, as well as conduit run perforations
-build backer boxes for the 15 pot lights, and the in-ceiling motorized screen
-Door to room is a Masonite Safe and Sound 1 3/4" solid core door with a sweep. It's in a kerfed and weatherstripped frame and already installed.

Ceilings -IB-1 Clips and Channel, 5/8 DD&GG
Soffit for HVAC-IB-2 EXT Clips and Channel, 5/8 DD&GG
Wall 1 - Screen Wall with plasma mount recess / Bar cabinets and counter-Double Stud wall, 5/8 DD&GG
Wall 2 - East bar wall - window and exterior door-Clip and Channel, 5/8 DD&GG
Wall 3 - South bar wall-IB-1 Clips and Channel, recessed between studs, 3/8 DD&GG due to space limitations
Wall 4 - East Media room wall-IB-1 Clips and Channel, 5/8 DD&GG
Wall 5 - South Media room wall / Staircase wall-Double Stud wall decoupled with IB-3 brackets to joist blocking, 5/8 DD&GG
Wall 6 - West Media room wall - windows-Double Stud wall, 5/8DD&GG

Soundproofingcompany.com has really educated me a ton this week. My soundproofing plan has come a long way from just insulating with Roxul Safe and Sound and using Resilient Channel and single 5/8 drywall on the ceilings and walls. WOW is this site informative! I can't express my appreciation for it enough.

Insulation:
I have Roxul thermal insulation in all my exterior walls. However, with a second wall framed in front of my foundation, I can use something else for the next layer of insulation. Ted White has said numerous times here that the fluffy pink stuff is best value wise, and that insulation is the least important factor of the 4 factors to soundproofing. I don't like working with the pink stuff, however I've priced out some soft and friendly R12 Knauf at 33.27 a 127 sq ft bag or 26 cents/ sq ft. and R14 Knauf at 31.45 a 78 sq ft bag or 40 cents/ sq ft. from a local drywall supplier, Dryco http://www.knaufinsulation.ca/en/con...batt-glasswool so these are cheaper than Owens Corning at 65 cents/ sq ft. http://www.homedepot.ca/product/r-14...783-sq-/905969 and Roxul at 59 cents/ sq ft. from Home Depot:
http://www.homedepot.ca/product/roxu...-centre/972187

Comparing the products isn't the easiest considering it's difficult to compare like for like, so this is what I'm looking at. The Roxul S&S claims a 0.52 absorption coefficient at 125hz and an STC of 52 with 5/8 drywall both sides on steel studs 24" OC http://www.roxul.com/files/RX-NA_EN/pdf/SafenSound.pdf Owens Corning claims 49 STC with fiberglass and 47 with rock wool with 5/8 drywall both sides on steel studs 16" OC. http://insulation.owenscorning.ca/as...9419cdbb54.pdf Knauf claims 50 STC on 3 5/8 steel studs, no spacing specified:http://www.knaufinsulation.ca/sites/...0datasheet.pdf

Absorption coefficients at lower frequencies interest me more than STC, but even bobgolds.com's aborption coefficients make it difficult to compare across brands with ever changing product names...Analysis paralysis! I think I'll just trust Ted, and go buy the Knauf fiberglass since it's the cheapest option.

Current Status:Building and hanging the Motorized screen backer box

Next:Finish insulation, vapor barrier, Clips & Channel


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Last edited by Swervepf; 06-30-2014 at 10:34 PM.
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post #2 of 84 Old 04-13-2013, 12:50 PM - Thread Starter
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HVAC

Before I go on with insulation, I need to sort out my HVAC situation.

I've got 2 5" rigid duct supplies, and 2 returns built into stud wall cavities. For the supplies, I've got space to build in a dead vent/muffler for each I think. However, I don't think I have the space to do the same for the returns since they're currently a pair of stud wall cavities drawing near the floor where the other side of the interior wall is a finished bathroom in one case, and the other would encroach on my in-wall rack built into the utility closet...

AppleMark

Any suggestions what I could do with this if anything? Would it make any sense to do something about the supplies but not the returns? Thinking it's an all or nothing decision...

I don't need cooling in the basement, but I do need some heating in the winter. I thought of eliminating the HVAC to the room to better seal it up and improve SP performance and going with electric baseboard heaters, but all the ones at Home Depot seem to require 240V (over 12gauge?) that I don't have in the room. I do have 5 15A circuits available though. The room is already characteristically warm in the winter being 3' below grade, and now with A LOT more insulation on the walls, and some in ceilings, and new windows, it wont take much effort to heat it. There are 3 windows and the exterior door will see daily use for ventilation so that's not an issue I don't think. I think one of these under the NW window, and another under the east window in the bar should do the trick just fine:

https://west.nedco.ca/lc2507w11-120v-750w-wht-lconv-htr/%2525286250%252529/CCXLC2507W11/ProductInformation.raction

Removing the supply and return ducts in favour of going with electric baseboards eliminates what I perceive as a major weakness from a soundproofing perspective, right? Any reasons not to do this?


Also, should I dampen the supply ducts and main trunk feeding the 3 upstairs bedrooms. They're in the soffit and joist cavities above this room. Here's where they run:



I'll be insulating, but that's only absorption. I was thinking of dampening all the duct work with this, which I can get in a 5 gallon pail for $150 plus shipping and just paint brush on:

http://acousticsubfloorpanels.com/pipesandducts/Dampingmaterial/3603.pdf

Kineticsnoise.ca has something similar but it's $255 a pail plus shipping. http://www.kineticsnoise.ca/industrial/pdf/kdce162.pdf

Thoughts?


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post #3 of 84 Old 04-13-2013, 01:30 PM - Thread Starter
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My plan for the source side is still developing, but before I insulate, I'm looking at 2 recipient side walls

One in the south of the room where the other side is a staircase open into the upstairs living area.
The other is the wall south of the bar side where the other side is a bathroom I also want to isolate.

I can't green glue and add another layer of drywall on those sides as they're finished spaces. However, I'm looking at the backsides of those walls from the media room. I'm thinking of taking a page from Soundproofingcompany.com's 'how to insulate a ceiling page', specifically, SPC Ceiling Solution 4, http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/soundproofing-solutions/soundproof-a-ceiling/

In this solution, green glue and drywall is attached to the underside of the upper floor's subfloor to dampen it. How about I do this same technique within the stud cavities of the wall to dampen and add mass to the recipient walls? I perceive this as easy and a good way to use up scrap drywall I kept from another project. I don't think I need screws here... just use a smaller bead of GG, maybe 1/4", and then push and hold the 2 together for a minute or two each panel. Thoughts?

Here's the south wall... you can also see my conduit (built in vac pipe) and receptacle for the projector. The 12V trigger line is also hanging, and the surround back speaker runs are all done. smile.gif



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post #4 of 84 Old 04-14-2013, 11:57 AM - Thread Starter
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What should I do about soundproofing behind the wall plate that will house the banana jacks, and subwoofer RCA?

AppleMark

Originally, I was just going to trim one of these and mount it next to the AC outlet:



but that will create a 'leak' into the wall.

EDIT: This was weak so I addressed it with a second single gang box just for the low voltage:

AppleMark


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post #5 of 84 Old 04-16-2013, 10:38 AM - Thread Starter
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Well, I think I'm just going to order up the "ANTIVIBE- DL" damping compound from back east. It can't hurt, and I won't be able to go back after I drywall! (well, I could, but I wouldn't, and I don't want to regret it later). I'll order later this week barring any strong recommendations against it from anyone.

Just finished up my Plasma's wall mount recess. I'm going to use an articulating wall mount that I can use to twist the screen towards the bar area for big games when a bunch of friends are over and are all over the room. When the TV is in it's normal position, it'll be pushed right back against the wall with minimal tilt. This will allow me to change activities on the harmony from TV to the projector which when turned on, will then trigger the lowering of the screen in front of the TV unobstructed. The ~5" depth I gain in the recess should cater for a lot of the mount's depth.



Just need to putty up the electrical box and built in vac pipes I'm using for conduit.


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post #6 of 84 Old 04-25-2013, 11:26 PM - Thread Starter
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HVAC update- Since the HVAC servicing the media room and bar are a big weakness I see in the room from a soundproofing perspective, and I don't have the room to address it properly with dead vents, I've decided to eliminate it and will install electric baseboard heaters instead. Ventilation will come by way of the exterior door that will see regular use and the 3 windows. I'm not a fan of baseboard heaters, but soundproofing is a greater priority.

For the HVAC servicing the 3 bedrooms upstairs that are running through the joist cavities, I'll be applying the Antivibe - DL damping compound that just arrived today from Acoustiguard.com. 55lbs of it in a pail!

AppleMark


For my speaker and sub connections at the wall, I'm ditching the LV drywall rings as they're another weakness- I can't have a hole there, so I'm going to mount single gang boxes on the other side of the studs from electrical outlets, putty them with Duct Seal from home depot since it's quite similar to putty pads but much cheaper. After drywall, I'll use some plastic extension rings and putty the gap between the ring and the box. That'll yield me the depth I need to accommodate the sturdy Monoprice RCA sub cable I need to squeeze in there.

I hope to have this done this weekend. If I have time, I'll also do the double drywall and green glue treatment to 2 interior walls from inside the stud wall cavities on the media room side of the wall like I described in a previous post. I'll post pictures of progress as well.


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post #7 of 84 Old 04-29-2013, 09:38 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Swervepf View Post

...I'm looking at 2 recipient side walls

One in the south of the room where the other side is a staircase open into the upstairs living area.

I can't green glue and add another layer of drywall on those sides as they're finished spaces. However, I'm looking at the backsides of those walls from the media room. I'm thinking of taking a page from Soundproofingcompany.com's 'how to insulate a ceiling page', specifically, SPC Ceiling Solution 4, http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/soundproofing-solutions/soundproof-a-ceiling/

In this solution, green glue and drywall is attached to the underside of the upper floor's subfloor to dampen it. How about I do this same technique within the stud cavities of the wall to dampen and add mass to the recipient walls? I perceive this as easy and a good way to use up scrap drywall I kept from another project. I don't think I need screws here... just use a smaller bead of GG, maybe 1/4", and then push and hold the 2 together for a minute or two each panel. Thoughts?

I removed the insulation I had put up and started with this:




Here's my GG application pattern... I did a 1/4" bead in a grid that should still yield me the air pockets that are considered desirable. Should I not do this, and go with the random spaghetti technique? I did the spaghetti on one panel and just couldn't handle the chaos!

AppleMark


and the wall complete with 1/2" DD&GG from inside the wall stud cavities.




After I finished this, I thought I'd give the Gardner Bender Duct Seal from Home Depot a go for the outlets. I was quite soft and easily pliable into a 3/8" or so sheet. I was able to use half a pound on each of these outlets, but I think I'll bump it up to 3/4 lb per single gang for the rest and a full pound on the double gangs:

AppleMark

AppleMark

the stuff washes off fairly easily, but I think I'll do all the electrical boxes and other spots I need to do in one go.


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post #8 of 84 Old 05-01-2013, 01:35 PM - Thread Starter
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Managed to get most of the first coat of the Antivibe - DL done.

This stuff was super thick! I had to mix a little at a time and slowly. Took some out of the pail to make it more manageable. The more I stirred, the more liquid the compound became and easier to mix.



First coat went on pretty thin, so I'm thinking I'll end up doing 3-5 coats on all the ducts. The pail expires in a few months, so I may as well use as much up as I can. The heavier the ductwork, the better I suppose.



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post #9 of 84 Old 05-07-2013, 06:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Got the second coat of Antivibe - DL up this weekend. It really took the clang and bang out the ducts. Did an iPhone/Youtube video of the difference. Still considering going with flexible ducting for my supplies though. I'll have to do a few more tests to decide I think.


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post #10 of 84 Old 05-07-2013, 10:57 PM
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post #11 of 84 Old 05-08-2013, 08:49 AM
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Hi Swervepf,

Looks like you'll have a great media room. Are you planning for a bathroom down there as well? That was a qualifier for my wife to spend much time on the lower level. I really like the niche for mounting the TV. You may want to checkout Monoprice for the mount, I just ordered one similar to your needs. They have lots of choices. Best of luck on your project.

~Dale

 


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post #12 of 84 Old 05-08-2013, 11:20 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dvmiller View Post

Hi Swervepf,

Looks like you'll have a great media room. Are you planning for a bathroom down there as well? That was a qualifier for my wife to spend much time on the lower level. I really like the niche for mounting the TV. You may want to checkout Monoprice for the mount, I just ordered one similar to your needs. They have lots of choices. Best of luck on your project.

Thanks, Dale. Unfortunately, there will not be a bathroom in this space. My wife all but demanded one, but to put even just a 2 piece bathroom within the bar area just wouldn't work. The exterior door and window locations on the east wall, and insufficient plumbing drainage are all major challenges. The bar is 12 x 12 where I want its north wall to have a full size fridge and ~6' counter run. I also want an island in there.

I've got a bar plan in Ikea's kitchen planner. Here's a birds eye view. 4 barstools at the island, which end up at 45 degrees from the TV:



Here's a 3D view facing the north wall of the bar:



Here's another view from the media room side towards the bar side. I'm not certain I'll do the cabinet with the glass upswinging door in the top left just yet. The backsplash will be stone, like you'd see cladding a fireplace, and I'll have 2 glass shelves with LED lighting in them to illuminate the bottles placed on them.



I hope to be able to put an addition on the house within the next 10 or so years that would yield me a bedroom and full bath on the lower level. The upper level would be a walk in closet and en-suite full bath for the master. This plan appeased the wife.

Monoprice rocks! I get all of my cables from them and that's where I'll also look for a mount.


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post #13 of 84 Old 05-28-2013, 04:18 PM - Thread Starter
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More weaknesses to my soundproofing objective identified and fixed this weekend:

1. HVAC return duct

On the upper floor, there is a hallway where there's a return vent at the bottom of a wall. Return air enters that vent, goes down through a hole in the floor, across a joist cavity, and into the return trunk ducting. This joist cavity is in the media room. My first naive attempt to address this months ago now was to
-remove the metal sheeting that was nailed to the joists that boxed in the joist cavity to create the return,
-recreate a shallower return duct with Thermopan (foil faced cardboard meant for HVAC return duct construction) to allow space for a batt of Roxul Safe and sound insulation to go in between the return duct and the ceiling.




No real mass and only a little absorption= WEAK!

I pulled the Roxul down and boxed in the return duct with 5/8 drywall, and then sealed up all the joints with LePage PL Acousti-Seal.

PL Acousti-Seal is the nastiest substance on the planet. It strings up and falls onto everything within a 4' radius and is a nightmare to clean up. I've only ever used this to seal vapor barrier to studs previously and had a few tubes left over from that job, but never again for SP purposes. I hope the GG SilenSeal isn't as nasty.




While I was there, I also removed another return going up a wall cavity into the same return trunk above. I closed off the opening with some more Thermopan and tuck tape, and now will add some drywall and acoustic sealant within the stud wall cavity.



2. Another interior wall received a dose of DD&GG medicine.

The south wall of the bar has a washroom on the other side that I don't want to receive sound/noise from. So, again following Soundproofingcompany.com's 'how to insulate a ceiling page', specifically, SPC Ceiling Solution 4, I added green glue and scrap 5/8 drywall within the stud cavities of the wall to dampen and add mass to the recipient wall. It was tough getting in all in there around plumbing, etc, but I've added mass and damping to that recipient wall.

I also 'painted' the plumbing pipe with the AntiVibe DL, as well as the back of the shower stall. While it might not dampen these noise emitting items much, the Antivibe itself is heavy, and it's mass makes them vibrate less. I've got leftovers of it, and hate wasting materials, so spending it wherever I can.



When I first used this DD&GG within stud wall cavity technique on my staircase wall, I also applied acoustic sealant across the drywall seams and around the perimeter of the studs, and top and bottom plates. Should I also acoustic seal up all these joints (albeit with a friendlier acoustic sealant) or would that be a waste of time? I've added mass and damping already so am I done and just OCD?


While I was there, someone hit the shower while I was working so I loaded up 3 lbs of Duct Seal over the water valve and copper piping leading up to the shower head that was whining from the water flow. I could hear it getting quieter as I applied it so that was interesting. It didn't eliminate it altogether, but the pipe is mounted to framing, so hands-on lesson in flanking learned!




Next is to isolate the back of the shower from the source side. My plan is to insulate, then slap up a sheet of drywall inside the stud wall cavity. I've read about the triple leaf effect... does that apply here with the fibreglass shower wall acting as the third leaf? I'm thinking not because it's light and flimsy and thus has a different resonance than drywall. The source side of this wall will be clipped and DD&GG, so from source to recipient side in order will be: DD&GG, clips, studs, insulation and an in-stud drywall sheet, insulation, shower wall. Advice?

AppleMark


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post #14 of 84 Old 05-28-2013, 04:51 PM
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+1 on monoprice. Good stuff for good prices.

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"Too much is almost enough. Anything in life worth doing is worth overdoing. Moderation is for cowards."
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post #15 of 84 Old 06-02-2013, 12:56 AM
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You're putting drywall IN the wall stud cavity?

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post #16 of 84 Old 06-02-2013, 08:34 AM - Thread Starter
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Yes, that's exactly what I'm doing. I can't dd&gg the recipient walls since the other sides are already finished spaces, but this I believe is similar as its still adding mass and damping. Soundproofingcompany.com demonstrates in a ceiling solution, to treat the upper subfloor this way so I thought to do the same in my situation with 2 interior walls.


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post #17 of 84 Old 06-02-2013, 08:59 PM - Thread Starter
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Acoustical sealant comparison: LePage PL Acousti-Seal is horrendous- avoid it like the plague. I picked up some Grabber Acoustical Sealant from a local drywall supplier at under $6 per tube. The Grabber was infinitely better to work with than the LePage. It's white in color and pumps easy just like Alex Plus caulking. It's Green, low VOC, and has measures on the label towards LEED. I don't know for certain if it's water based, but it cleaned off my hands just as easy as Alex Plus does. They also had Tremco but it had 'industrial use only" on the label that turned me off, as well as QuietRock's acoustical sealant that was quadruple the price. They didn't have Green Glue's SilenSeal even though they carry Green Glue.

Anyways, the Grabber acoustical sealant is a breeze to work with and I'll use this for the rest of the project I think. Here's a pic of the Grabber (white) just pumped onto a piece of drywall next to the black evil:

AppleMark


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post #18 of 84 Old 06-04-2013, 06:21 PM
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Looking good man! I like the bar too.


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post #19 of 84 Old 07-16-2013, 08:40 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Ragged. The wife just told me we need a dishwasher in the bar now. So far, I think I'll go with an 18" Stainless or Panel Ready model with hidden controls. It'll be in the island and I guess I've got more use now for the AntiVibe-DL that I've got left over. Bosch models that have that thick heavy black coating resembles the AntiVibe DL so i'll just slap on another 3 coats or so on it I think. I'll slap it on the underside of the sink in the island as well.

Weekend Update: After over a month hiatus, I got back in there on Sunday and accomplished a few more tidbits. First off was finishing off the isolation treatments on the inside of a wall where there's a finished bathroom on the other side. After thinking about the triple leaf effect I was fearing, I deduced that because the shower tub is what looks like acrylic on fiberglass or something similar, it's density and mass are so different from 5/8 drywall that it wouldn't cause the issue. Here's the before pic of the backside of the shower and associated plumbing. It was installed in what used to be a hallway and I had to add some blocking for the in stud wall drywall I added, hence the odd looking framing.

AppleMark


Then I slapped in some scrap Roxul Safe & Sound Insulation:

AppleMark


Finally, I inserted 5/8 within the stud wall cavity and acoustic sealed it all up. I don't want to hear someone taking a shower when I'm down here!

AppleMark


I also mocked up my backer boxes for my 15 potlights out of scrap drywall. I made a few changes along the way but ultimately came up with the below. Here's the outer shell which will either be 1/2" MDF, or OSB... probably just cheaper OSB:

AppleMark


Here it is with the inner shell that will be 5/8 drywall. I'm not concerned about heat because I'll be running dimmable LED bulbs (in all but one can... Lutron hasn't produced an IR-controlled Maestro dimmer switch that is compatible with dimmable LED bulbs yet, hence one lamp will be Halogen to address a minor flashing phenomenon when in the OFF position- yes, there's still evidence of current in the LED lamps when the switch is in FULL OFF position. With 1 of the 6 on that circuit swapped out with a halogen, the issue is no longer present). Also, the cans are IC rated so am substituting the recommended inner lining of cement board with just 5/8 drywall. There will also be Green Glue in between this sandwich:

AppleMark


Finally, as suggested in BIG's design of the backer box (thanks again and sorry it's not cement board in the inner lining), I'm adding a 1/2" OSB strips on the front to reduce the seams and create a nice 1 1/8" wide surface for acoustic sealant to seal it to the backside of the first layer of drywall. I'll slather it on the face of the can housing as well. There will be roughly 1" of air space around, and 1/2" between the top of the can and the inside of the backer box. I'll loosely fill in some scrap Roxul insulation in this space. The overall outer depth of this box will be ~7". My ceiling joists are 2x8, so I've only got 7 1/4" of joist height. Also, I want to recess my clips and channel in the ceiling so have limited space... I may even have to make these ~6.5" to preserve space between the top of the box and underside of the subfloor. I can't go any smaller though since these HALO cans are 5.5" tall.

AppleMark


I'm taking the narrower of the 2 dimensions of each outer panel to Home Depot and having them rip the OSB for me. Then I'll chop these strips to length with my miter saw at home, glue, and brad nail these together. Next, I'll acoustic seal all the inside joints. Then I'll hand cut all the 5/8 drywall myself and green glue it to the inside of the OSB box. Finally, I"ll green glue the backside of the facing/sealing flanges or whatever you want to call them to the front edges of the sandwiched backer box and brad nail them on as well. I'll make the first box from start to finish and if it all goes well, then I'll do each step 14 times, stack up each piece and do the assembly of the 14 remaining boxes at the end.


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post #20 of 84 Old 07-19-2013, 11:41 PM - Thread Starter
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GG & DD sandwiches got fed to some joist cavities tonight. These joist cavities run over the utility closet and then over living space on the other side of the house. I've got scrap drywall that just begged for a purpose. So I made some sandwiches.

Here's the assembly and install for all you pic lovers:

AppleMark

filling and frosting

AppleMark

Green Glue!

AppleMark

mmmmm....

AppleMark

Acoustical Sealant!

AppleMark

plugged



and sealed



2 down, 4 more to go



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post #21 of 84 Old 07-20-2013, 12:36 AM
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I'm building a theater room with bar as well. Subscribed.

My First Build Ever (which just so happens to be a theater!) (In progress)

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post #22 of 84 Old 07-23-2013, 07:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quamosa View Post

I'm building a theater room with bar as well. Subscribed.

looking forward to your build thread. smile.gif The bar will be built last. The plumbing and electrical is in place now, but cabinets, counters etc will come at the end.


Working on finalizing my soundproofing plan for the ceiling and soffit as well as each wall individually tonight. Some walls are double stud and some aren't. Those that are double studded won't be clipped and will just get DD&GG. I will have some cabinets in the bar side and clips and channel won't support the weight of the cabinets. Also, at the back of the media room side will be some cabinets and a bit of a desk. This wall will also be be double stud and then DD≫ no clips nor channel.

I made some more sandwiches last night. I think the weakness in the joist cavities is addressed.



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post #23 of 84 Old 07-25-2013, 12:42 PM
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Really envying the soundproofing you are doing. I wanted to go that route initially, especially the drywall within the joists. I spent some time on soundproofingcompany as well. Soundproofing is great but I dont think I will need it as much with my layout. As it stands its pretty quiet in my basement and only bass sounds escape to the room directly above which is not a room that will be used often. I'm more concerned about sound escaping to the other half of the basement where I would like the kids to stay. smile.gif My cabinets and bar will come last as well. I do plan to caulk the drywall joints. Does acoustic caulk really make much of a difference over the regular caulk? I started my build thread last week...http://www.avsforum.com/t/1482020/my-first-build-ever I'm still pretty new at this.

My First Build Ever (which just so happens to be a theater!) (In progress)

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post #24 of 84 Old 07-25-2013, 07:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quamosa View Post

Does acoustic caulk really make much of a difference over the regular caulk? I started my build thread last week...http://www.avsforum.com/t/1482020/my-first-build-ever I'm still pretty new at this.

The thing about acoustical caulk is that it remains soft and flexible after it dries. I don't know if the difference is huge, but I've seen some expensive elastomeric sealant I've used on baseboard molding crack after 2 years for no apparent reason. I think I bought DAP Dynaflex 230 at about 3 times the price of their Alex Plus II. I'm not taking chances with this. The Grabber stuff I've used so far I've gotten for $5.50 for the big 29 oz tubes from a drywall supplier and I really like it. It feels like a pliable rubber when fully dry. I'll be ordering half a case of the Green Glue SilenSeal from John at soundproofingcompany.com for only a couple bucks more to see if it dries any softer. I want to make sure my ceiling, floor, and room corner joints, as well as electrical box perforations remain as flexible as possible. I'm not so concerned about joints in the drywall planes since these will be taped and mudded over. They'll still get acoustically sealed first, but it'll be shallow enough in the joint to let the tape and mud do their thing. I wouldn't use any old caulking. For $5.50 for a big tube, use it. Home Depot and the like, here anyway, only had LePage Acousticseal (horribly messy and odorous forever. AVOID IT LIKE THE PLAGUE) and it was more expensive. Check out your drywall supplier.

I'll check out your thread now.


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post #25 of 84 Old 07-26-2013, 09:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quamosa View Post

Really envying the soundproofing you are doing. I wanted to go that route initially, especially the drywall within the joists. I spent some time on soundproofingcompany as well. Soundproofing is great but I dont think I will need it as much with my layout. As it stands its pretty quiet in my basement and only bass sounds escape to the room directly above which is not a room that will be used often. I'm more concerned about sound escaping to the other half of the basement where I would like the kids to stay. smile.gif My cabinets and bar will come last as well. I do plan to caulk the drywall joints. Does acoustic caulk really make much of a difference over the regular caulk? I started my build thread last week...http://www.avsforum.com/t/1482020/my-first-build-ever I'm still pretty new at this.

Here is a thread discussing the major brands of acoustical caulk:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/465443/acoustic-calk-etc-questions#post_4601063

And here is an explanation from the master about the benefits of such caulk(Post #9)
http://www.avsforum.com/t/264218/acoustical-caulk

Hope this helps as they helped me. Btw I used Titebond.

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post #26 of 84 Old 08-01-2013, 10:47 AM - Thread Starter
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Wiring checkpoint. Am I missing anything?

From the AV Rack, here's what I've run

to speakers for 9.2.
  • 12/4 to L, C, and R so I can bi-amp, or use the 2nd set of wiring for future use such as amplifying passive subs
  • 14/2 to Heights and surrounds
  • Single 16/4 to a wall next to seating for 4 Aura Bass Shakers
  • 2 X RCAs to L and R speaker locations for active subs.


to Center Speaker location:
  • 3.5mm minijack extenstion for IR Receiver


to Projector:
  • 2" conduit (for HDMI and future use)
  • 3.5mm minijack for an IR blaster


to motorized Screen:
  • 3.5mm minijack for IR blaster (redundant back up to 12V control from projector)


to TV:
  • 2X 2" conduit (for HDMI and future use)
  • 3.5mm minijack for an IR blaster on TV
  • CAT6
  • RG6


From Projector to screen:
  • 3.5mm minijack for 12V DC control of motorized screen action.


From Input panel on wall next to seating, I've run the following to the AV rack
  • HDMI
  • 2X USB
  • CAT6
  • 3.5MM Headphone jack (ironically)
  • CAT3 (phone)



I'm working now to finish insulation, put up vapor barrier, then onto clips and channels on the ceilings and walls but I want to make sure I've got all the wiring I need in the walls first.


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post #27 of 84 Old 08-01-2013, 01:10 PM
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Might want to consider pre-wire for wides, in case you decide to try 11.2.

Also, maybe some provision for future powered subwoofers (RCA-type unbalanced cabling).


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post #28 of 84 Old 08-01-2013, 01:39 PM
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I would run some RG6 to any future sub locations.

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post #29 of 84 Old 08-01-2013, 02:56 PM
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Cat 6 to projector location.
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post #30 of 84 Old 08-01-2013, 03:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LeBon View Post

Might want to consider pre-wire for wides, in case you decide to try 11.2.

Also, maybe some provision for future powered subwoofers (RCA-type unbalanced cabling).

The room facing the screen is 12' wide with the front 60% opening to the right where there will be a bar, making Wides a challenge. I thought about leaving a drop in the island that will be where a Right Wide would be, but on the left side, the Wide would be tough. There are windows on the left side, and a couch will be along that wall. I don't think I could pull off wides very well unfortunately.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wraunch View Post

I would run some RG6 to any future sub locations.

Thanks to both of you for reminding me about the RCA drops for my subs! I forgot about those and have since edited my post. I have 2 RCAs run to my L and R speaker wall jack locations. I'll terminate them there with RCA keystone inserts in a 6 keystone wall plate, just under 4 banana jacks I'll have. 5 jacks and a blank to keep it nice and tidy.

Anything else I may be missing?


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