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post #271 of 385 Old 10-21-2013, 07:38 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Vaughn View Post

Bill,
Have you thought of wrapping the frame of the screen with Duvateen tape to not reflect any stray light?
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Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

If I were you, Bill, I'd plan on covering that frame with the velvet straight away and not even messing around with the painted surface. The edges to your screen will appear a lot more crisp and the surface texture of the velvet has a way of absorbing a lot more light than painted wood.

It's such a quick and easy project with existing materials and a true performance benefit, so go for it!! biggrin.gif
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I couldn't agree more. I'd make this a top priority and you won't be disappointed with the results.
following your advice we wrapped the frame with the triple plush velvet.




done
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post #272 of 385 Old 10-21-2013, 07:57 AM - Thread Starter
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I worked with Jon at Seymour AV on my Center Stage XD on a custom Constant Image Area 2:1 screen with grommets and bands to wrap my DYI frame. It turned out being 126" wide and 65" tall giving me a 2.35:1 of 126"X53" 136" diagonal and a 16x9 of 115"x65" 132" diagonal


at first I laid out the screen punt my frame down and marked the screw locations 1 1/4" above each grommet.

you see here that the screw is perpendicular to the grommet as indicated by the marker.


when we got it on the wall there was a lot of sag so I chatted with Jon via email and Chris via PM and their solution was to add another 1/4" and to also have the screws get further off center as you got closer to the corners. Hope you under stand what I mean. You can see the old screw holes

wrapping the corner was interesting


and done it is tight as a drum I think that the velvet also helped as it was a smother surface so less resistant than the painted wood for the fabric to stretch over
with my LED accent lighting
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post #273 of 385 Old 10-21-2013, 08:36 AM
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Am I confused, or was there was wires crossed on the felt and the screen?

I must be guilty because people say I am guilty because they chose to call me guilty because they refuse to see the truth. Much easier to be part of the mob..
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post #274 of 385 Old 10-21-2013, 08:41 AM - Thread Starter
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On to the equipment rack in my media room. My rack is a little different than most that you see as I wanted to also support my data entrance point in my media room so I made a L shaped shelf under the opening for the rack that wrapped around under the media entry panel. I than used the metal shelves that you by from HD or Lowes that have the triangle shaped shelf supports. I than fashioned another shelf from the bottom of the media entry panel around to the rack.


We cut the shelves and used biscuit joints and kregg screws to make the shelfs. I gave enough clearance for ventilation to install my old Pioneer 818 AVR to power my speakers on the back porch and my work shop and my new Denon X4000 AVR into the rack along with my other toys like my power management center and Panasonic Blue Ray etc.

this is what the media center looks like now with my 48 port switch and Comcast modem.

View from the billiard room.
20131027_194252.jpg
the Panamax power center has down lighting to light up the rack which is a neat feature
20131027_194314.jpg
from bottom to top
Sony VHS player
Panasonic DMP-BDT500
Pioneer 818
Denon X4000
Sony 5 disk DVD player
place holder for DTV geni mini
Panamax power center
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post #275 of 385 Old 10-21-2013, 08:48 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Am I confused, or was there was wires crossed on the felt and the screen?
I think you are confused the wires coming down the front wall are for height speakers later. there are some run away strand from the velvet though if that is what you are seeing.
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post #276 of 385 Old 10-21-2013, 09:09 AM - Thread Starter
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This is me trying to learn how to use my Panasonic AE8000
From the back of room


I zoomed my camera still from back

from the front seat with no zoom of camera

before anyone asks this is before I did some fine toning of the projector leveling and what not
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post #277 of 385 Old 10-21-2013, 10:02 AM - Thread Starter
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I did want to make a note that in the process of playing with the projector the UPS a 435W cyberpower that I have my projector and switch plugged into for what ever reason the alarm started going off. My son in law who was down stairs watching the game on the other side of the house watching the game came up stairs to see what the noise was. When we had the door pushed shut we could not hear the alarm but here he was down stairs and on the other side of the house and he heard it. I asked him if he heard any noise from us playing the movie or running Audyssey on the AVR and he said no. Now trouble with a curve is not a loud movie by no stretch but running Audyssey was pretty loud. The door has not been treated in any way I.E threshold or seals and we have not even put the knob on yet so I fell really good so far about the sound. If after my DYI treatment of the door fails then I will bite the bullet and install the zero products like everyone else. Wife is kind of getting tired of me spending money though but I know if she hears anything out of the theater I will never hear the end of it and I will blame the door rolleyes.gif

Any ideas what is up with the UPS?
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post #278 of 385 Old 10-21-2013, 11:38 AM
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I think a constant beeping tone on the Cyberpower indicates an overloaded unit. An intermittent tone would indicate utility power failure.
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post #279 of 385 Old 10-21-2013, 12:53 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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I think a constant beeping tone on the Cyberpower indicates an overloaded unit. An intermittent tone would indicate utility power failure.
thanks I am not sure what it draws but I guess it is more than the 435 W
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post #280 of 385 Old 10-21-2013, 01:00 PM
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Quote:
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I think a constant beeping tone on the Cyberpower indicates an overloaded unit. An intermittent tone would indicate utility power failure.

What he said. I have a CyberPower 825AVR, and when it loses house power it will beep slowly. When I overload it, it will start beeping about twice per second (just a guess there, but pretty quickly).

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post #281 of 385 Old 10-21-2013, 01:12 PM - Thread Starter
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I looked up the data sheet and the projector draws 310W I am not sure about the 48 port switch but was told it does not draw that much. I guess together they were pushing the limit. The good news was I could not hear it in the theater even though my Son-in-law heard it downstairs to the point he came to investigate.
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post #282 of 385 Old 10-21-2013, 01:48 PM
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I guessed at which unit you had, but looks like the CP425G is only rated for 255 Watts. If you are not familiar with the terminology, then the naming convention on these things is very misleading. Does the unit you have specify its VA rating as well as its W rating?

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post #283 of 385 Old 10-22-2013, 04:55 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post

I guessed at which unit you had, but looks like the CP425G is only rated for 255 Watts. If you are not familiar with the terminology, then the naming convention on these things is very misleading. Does the unit you have specify its VA rating as well as its W rating?
I guess that makes sense than so the 825AVR will work than?
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post #284 of 385 Old 10-22-2013, 05:57 AM
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Looks like the currently available CPR800AVR is rated for 450 Watts. That should work. I don't have mine connected to a PJ yet, so I can't tell you for sure.

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post #285 of 385 Old 11-06-2013, 05:47 AM - Thread Starter
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Ok so not a lot going on this weekend I was doing a lot of tweaking on the Audyssey MultEQ XT32 with SubEQ HT on my Denon X4000 and that thing is sweet. It really dials in the room. I think the subs were a little flat for my liking so I raised them by 5db in the manual settings after Audyssey which is what is recommended. Once you tell Audyssey your speaker configuration it has you place the mic in your MLP and test the subs. I had them set at 12:00 on the dial and that came in way to hot. Audyssey is looking to set everything to 75db at the MLP as a starting point. It allowed me to dial both subs down to 75db then went on with the test. I think the sound was truly great after the calibration except as I mentioned I like more base. The recommendation was to turn the base up at the AVR not the plate amp so I turned each base up 5db on the AVR and one notch on the plate amp. Did I mention I love base! biggrin.gif.

Well what I did in the theater was not PIC worthy I moved my Base to outside the screen so I could push my left and right to the edge of the 16x9 image. I built some boxes to put my speaker stands on since the stands did not have my tweeters at ear level. We wrapped the boxes with the carpet remnants and they look really good. Better than I thought anyway. In the process of cleaning up the theater and putting the seats back where they belong the Billiard Room/ My daughters temporary living room was piled with tools and other construction material. My son-in-law and I cleaned up all of that mess and then we commenced on unpacking the 20 or so boxes of BluRay/DVDs and put them on the shelves.
This is the BluRays the DVDs are on 2 more racks in the media room

Coming up the steps
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post #286 of 385 Old 11-06-2013, 06:48 AM
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That is really looking nice! I need to figure out a solution for my BDs. Currently have them between bookends on an old library table. What kind of shelf is that?
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post #287 of 385 Old 11-06-2013, 07:32 AM - Thread Starter
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Something we picked up at Best Buy a few years ago we have 3 of them. The 2 in media room are completely full of DVDs. I told the wife I do not think you could get a fart on the shelf let alone another DVD rolleyes.gif I think they still have something similar. My Daughter also has a few of them she caught our disease of buying whatever comes out on Tuesday. Very expensive habit but cheaper than going to the movies.
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post #288 of 385 Old 11-20-2013, 01:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Member cytoSiN sent me a PM about my Dayton Audio T1204K 12" Titanic Mk 4, 500 Watt RMS Subwoofer Kit

cytoSiN
Been following your home theater thread. It looks great! I wanted to follow up to see how you liked the Titanic sub kit. Also, does the Mk4 subwoofer have the goofy "D" logo on it, or is it blank? The pics in your thread are great, and I'm assuming they show the Mk4, not the Mk3 they sent you the first time, so I'm assuming it's blank, but wanted to be sure.

I realized I never shared my observations with the masses here is my reply

In a word Awesome the MK4 kit was so easy to do. There is No D on the cone. That is the MK4 in the finished picture of it in the theater room. I read all of the user comments at parts express and they are on the money as noted from some reviews I had 2 retaining nuts for the driver which were preinstalled push through when I was tightening them. They were on opposite sides so I think this will not be an issue as the driver is nice in tight. I did add a bag of Polly from Wal-Mart which may be over kill but reading many speaker build threads stating that will help lower the F3. I like the equalizer on the Amp since I purchased the same amp to fix my JBL I was able to dial them in using the Audessy in my Denon X4000 Amp. For what it is worth the Audessy in my opinion dialed them in way to flat. Research from many threads indicate that is how it is supposed to be they say give it a week it will grow on you but I like more base and raised it by 6db in the AVR. The Audessy has you dial the base down to 75db which is not even 1/3 on the dial then it sets the level of all your speakers. After the alignment both of the bases were -9db in the AVR so I raised them to -3db. I also turned up the base on the plate amp to about 11 o’clock but that was too much and I returned it back to 1/3 on the dial. I then set the equalizer on the plate amp for 25hz and set it to wide and tuned that up by 5 db. All and all it is a great little sub. We were watching Man of Steel over the weekend. On Friday my Wife went to bed early and next day she said the rumbling kept her awake. I still have not finished my door yet but that may or may not contain the base.
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post #289 of 385 Old 11-20-2013, 02:23 PM - Thread Starter
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While I am on the subject I missed the Sherbourn close out deal so I picked up the Denon X4000. I was originally leaning toward the 4520CI but the X4000 has many of the same features; it has 7 amps but can also be used as a pre pro with full 11 speaker out puts and can drive a total of 9 speakers 2 external on a Amp + 2 subs where the 4520 has 9 amps and can drive 11 speakers 2 external on a amp. If you wanted you could get some Emotive Amps and drive all your speakers externally. That will come later. A lot of the controls and settings are the same. The X400 has 3 zones 2 of which are HDMI and the 4520 has 4 zones. The list goes on but for the extra $1200 for the 4520 the X4000 meet my needs. I only ever used the room equalizers in the older Pioneer MCACC so the Audyssey was new to me. Let me say the Audyssey MultEQ XT32 and SubEQ HT is just amazing it can really dial in the room like I said above.
Full discussion here http://www.avsforum.com/t/1465528/the-official-2013-denon-e-series-x-series-avr-model-owners-thread-faq

Until I build my speakers after I am complete with the theater build I will be using what I have which is Bose 301s for left and right and 201s for side and rear surrounds with the Bose Vcs 10 center speaker. I originally was using my back porch speakers Bose 151s for side surrounds but replaced them with another pair of 201s mostly because even though Audyssey did a good job these speakers were not that great with a no real tweeter or mid base just some full range drivers which caused Audyssey to cross over at 150hz. Audyssey located the 301s and 201s cross over point at 40hz.. The 151s just could not keep up with the 301s and 201s at higher levels near reference. I felt better having all 6 speakers match and I can put the 151s on the back porch where they belong. I did not think the Vcs 10 would keep up but they do really nice with voices and play with no distortion at reference Audyssey crossed them at 100hz. I raised all cross over points to 60hz except the center at which I left at 100hz. I also bumped both of my subs up from -9.5db to -3.5db. (I like to feel the base)

I then did not just one but 5 microprocessor resets. I have been watching movies at -5db or near reference ever since. Watched Hobbit and the entire LOR trilogy extended edition version nonstop at reference the weekend before last my daughter had her ear plugs in LOL. We watched various other movies throughout the week i.e Star Trek and chick flicks for the wife and this week end I had three viewings of the Man of Steel with different family members each time. One time near reference my daughter had her ear plugs in again LOL there is some serious base in that movie which the daton MK4 pumped out no problem. The JBL with the Daton 500w Plate Amp is no slouch either. The sound on this thing is amazing it can only get better with some better speakers.
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post #290 of 385 Old 11-20-2013, 02:38 PM - Thread Starter
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The reason for the build delay other than watching movies is I had some work done on my back (Google radio frequency spinal never ablation) So what else do you do when off work and recovering?

About the Panasonic AE-8000 while watching Man of Steel this weekend the AE-8000 in Normal mode, fan on normal and the 3D in my opinion is amazing. Like everyone else states once you have the focus fine tuned the 3D just punches. No cross talk at all. I am controlling my 3D with my Panasonic BDT500 blue ray FWIW. I sat in the front MLP for two viewings and the back row for one. Just did not discern any cross talk. Guess I am one of the lucky ones. There was a little in Pacific Rim but I need to re watch it now that I have everything dialed in. Again I did make some 3D adjustments on my BDT500 Blue-ray player which may help. Awesome move I saw it at the IMAX theater and there was way more cross talk there than what I am seeing now which is virtually none. In 2D the LOTR was amazing I was in D-Cinema with fan on eco man o man I just sat there all week watching movies and saying to myself “I love my theater” The BDT500 also did a great job upscaling my Star Trek Generations DVD to 1080P 24Hz even at 125” wide it looked to me real close to that of a blue ray. I may not have to upgrade my collections after all!

Man I just Love this hobby I want to thank all of you for helping me with my stupid questions and leading me on the right path. I could never have imagined my theater would ever be this nice and if not for all of you it would be like my good friend Rob’s theater which is no slouch by no means having a Epson 1835 projector in his bonus room with his Yamaha amp and 100” wide 2.35:1 fixed frame non AT screen. Do not get me wrong that is a great place to watch movies and probably better than 99% of the homes out there but what a difference the sound proofing acoustical treatments and some quality AV gear makes. He is smoking me with his HSU 7.1 speakers but that is all right. I will let him have that for now LOL
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post #291 of 385 Old 11-25-2013, 07:46 AM
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Thanks for all the updates. Your pics and updates and responses are very helpful and encouraging and useful. This has been one of my favorite threads to follow.

One thing, don't shoot the messenger. Could you refer to your "base" as a Subwoofer? Also it would be "bass" as in low frequency tones, a base is where you used to work at. smile.gif I know you probably don't care but it's setting off my OCD every time I see you talk about it that way. Well, do what you want, but at least I got that off my chest.

Glad you like the Titanic Mark 4. It may be down the road sometime that you decide you need 2 of the Titanic Mark 4s in your theater- and no one would blame you. Dayton Audio / Parts Express are good people to deal with.

Screen looks great, your initial projector shots look really nice, it feels like a real theater (which was the idea!) and I'm sure you'll get loads of enjoyment for years to come out of it.
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post #292 of 385 Old 11-25-2013, 08:33 AM - Thread Starter
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Subwoofer it is I will try to remember. If I find the JBL does not keep up I can just add a MK4 driver in that cabinet at least that is wast the Techs told me at parts express. I really will not know until I get a mic and REW but I am afraid that will open up another can of worms. to the ears it sounds like the JBL with the 500W Daton Amp is keeping up. We will see.

The Screen in a word is amazing I made it 2.0:1 so over all it is 126"x65" that gives me
126"x52" 2.40:1 with 136" diag, 6 12" bars top and bottom
126"x54" 2.35:1 with 137" diag, 5 1/2" bars top and bottom
120"x65" 1.85:1 with 137" diag, (man this size make it like being there) 3" bars both sides
116"x65" 16x9 with 133" diag. 5" bars both sides
So in the way the best of both worlds If I would have done a 2.40:1 screen 126" wide my 16x9 size would have been 92"x52" with 106" diag. If I would have done 16X9 65" tall my 2.40:1 would have been 116"x48" 126" diag.
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post #293 of 385 Old 11-25-2013, 12:11 PM
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Mr. Wade,
Have you considered putting some velvet curtains on some rods next to your screen to do some masking? If you were doing a 16:9 movie, you could pull the curtains in a little manually to mask the screen. It's great either way. I like what you did with the equipment rack and the movies, it's very wife-friendly and user-friendly as well.
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post #294 of 385 Old 11-26-2013, 06:50 AM - Thread Starter
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Djkest Bill is fine no need to be formal
Yes I got some of the triple plush velvet samples in different shades of red to try and match the carpet. I may do the drapes in the triple plush Black or one of the reds. If I do the reds I would have a 6" leading edge of black though. I have been doing research and indications are the subswoffers will not have a problem behind the velvet. As is there is only 5" of screen exposed on each side when viewing 16x9 and with the lights out it is not distracting at all.
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post #295 of 385 Old 11-27-2013, 08:02 AM
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Chief, I am pretty impressed with your set-up. I followed your build for the last few months and I must say, you have set a good reference for theater guys! Enjoy the big screen!
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post #296 of 385 Old 11-27-2013, 09:49 AM
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Slightly off topic, but how do they address Warrant Officers in the Air Force? In the Navy, we used their specialty -- "Gunner", "Bos'n" etc.
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post #297 of 385 Old 11-27-2013, 12:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Air Force eliminated the Warrant Officer rank around 1972. Only the Navy, Army, Marine, and Coast Guard have Warrants. In the Army we are addressed officially by our rank or in my case as Chief Warrant Officer 5 Wade. The title of Mister or Ms is also appropriate. Most shorten it to Chief which I know is reserved in the Navy for E7-E9 which is why the Navy and Marines use the terms Gunner or Bos'n and so forth. I am an Electronics Maintenance Warrant Officer in fact I am the senior Electronic Maintenance Warrant Officer in the Army today. I assume based on Jpilots signature he is an Aviation Warrant Officer. Jpilot what do you fly?
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post #298 of 385 Old 12-02-2013, 11:17 AM - Thread Starter
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We did nothing but watch movies this week. smile.gif My son came down from West VA and said no need to go to the theater anymore. rolleyes.gif The sound from the Denon X4000 is just flat out the best I have heard and compares to the local theaters for sure. The sound just comes right out of the AT screen and the sound image is in a word awesome from the LCRs and surround. At or near reference has you ducking during RIPD during the gun fight scenes. Every time my son who lives here in GA wants to watch a movie it has to be in 3D. cool.gif He made us watch Man of Steel about 5 times. We just love our theater with the Panasonic AE-8000 and my DYI Seymour 125" wide AT 1.3 gain Center Stage screen. In 2D it is amazing biggrin.gif and 3D is like right there in your face. eek.gif I have a 17' throw and sit 10'6" for first row and 16' for second row. tongue.gif

One note on the Denon X4000 is my wife had to get up early to go to work. Previously she said she felt the base and could not go to sleep. That was with Dynamic eq on and dynamic volume off. I adjusted dynamic volume to heavy and set LFC to 4 and she slept like a baby.
Had to go back to work today mad.gif
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post #299 of 385 Old 12-02-2013, 11:38 AM
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I was an aviation warrant. I flew Blackhawk helicopters for 14 years. It was a lot of fun, but when the deployments started to outnumber the home days, I decided to change course. I am now a civilian doing UAVs.
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post #300 of 385 Old 12-09-2013, 01:12 PM - Thread Starter
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I have been remiss in showing my updates. My son gave me this Poster for my Birthday I mounted it and put it up last week. sorry about the glear


My Wife has been shopping at the local Hobby Lobby and picked up some eye candy. Theater entrance.


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