Modest soundproof door suggestions - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 25 Old 04-22-2013, 09:16 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm building a room within a room, DD+GG everywhere, Ceiling; furring channel and sound clips. I'm at the door stage right now and was wondering what door should I be looking at that is $300 or under to compensate the room's sound isolation. I'd prefer a flat slab look. It has to be a 28" door.

I've read using exterior steel slab doors but I cannot find any that are 28".

Also, I will most likely be adding some MDF to the theatre side of the door, should I then adjust the door stop to make sure the new thickness is flush with the wall?

Would the jamb for a thick solid core door be? 3/4", is that standard?

What would be the repercussions and challenges of installing a door jamb directly to the stud frame?

I'm installing a door in a perpendicular corner with double walls so this is getting a little more complicated than I though...

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post #2 of 25 Old 04-22-2013, 10:42 PM
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$300's a tight budget to do a door properly. With that you've got to get the door, the jamb, seals, etc.

A cheap way might be two reclaimed solid wood doors back to back, 1 3/8 or 1 3/4 thick, preferably with something in between like GG.

You are going to need to get or build a custom jamb since your walls are going to be much deeper than standard. 5/4 stock is generally recommended.

For seals the nice stuff from Zero is going to be out of your budget. Rod Gervais has a good design (the superdoor) using stepped doors and trunk rubber seal. Except your door won't have lead in it as a sheet the size of your door of that will cost more than $300!

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post #3 of 25 Old 04-23-2013, 05:43 AM
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Don't overlook the need to keep the pivot point of the hinges flush with swing side surface. If you add MDF put it on the other side and just move the stops.
The way to save money is to order a standard 1 3/4 particle core birch veneer office door pre-hung in a standard Jamb (get the widest they have) then add additional material as a jamb extension. When you pull the door stops replace with the Zero, Soundproofingcompany.com stocks them.

At Curve Frenzy I had them use 5 commercial grade hinges and we added two layers of 1/2 MDF with GG. The door, hinges and jamb was under $200. It went into a double famed wall and I filled in the remaining depth with MDF.

If your framing is plumb you can attach the hinge side directly to the frame without much shiming. Now here is the gotcha, If you have clips and channel with double DD on the walls, there won't be anything substantial to anchor your hinges. Standard procedure on these heavy doors is to replace the short screws with longer ones that go into the framing. So I attach a piece of 3/4 plywood to the framing that cantilevers out over the edge of the drywall to have something extra to grab. Thicker the better. You need to plan the for this extra material at the time of wall framing.
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post #4 of 25 Old 04-23-2013, 08:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Don't overlook the need to keep the pivot point of the hinges flush with swing side surface. If you add MDF put it on the other side and just move the stops.
The way to save money is to order a standard 1 3/4 particle core birch veneer office door pre-hung in a standard Jamb (get the widest they have) then add additional material as a jamb extension. When you pull the door stops replace with the Zero, Soundproofingcompany.com stocks them.

At Curve Frenzy I had them use 5 commercial grade hinges and we added two layers of 1/2 MDF with GG. The door, hinges and jamb was under $200. It went into a double famed wall and I filled in the remaining depth with MDF.

If your framing is plumb you can attach the hinge side directly to the frame without much shiming. Now here is the gotcha, If you have clips and channel with double DD on the walls, there won't be anything substantial to anchor your hinges. Standard procedure on these heavy doors is to replace the short screws with longer ones that go into the framing. So I attach a piece of 3/4 plywood to the framing that cantilevers out over the edge of the drywall to have something extra to grab. Thicker the better. You need to plan the for this extra material at the time of wall framing.
Great advice! You sound like my contractor who I build rooms with who has been a GC for 20+ years and is super ingenious! Question: did you think the door you did for that theater was equal in terms of soundproofing to the walls?

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post #5 of 25 Old 04-23-2013, 08:52 AM
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noob question - what is MDF?
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post #6 of 25 Old 04-23-2013, 09:27 AM
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post #7 of 25 Old 04-23-2013, 09:29 AM
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One picture is worth three words.....Medium Density Fiberboard.

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http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1014847

An as-yet un-named theater designed by Big-WarrenP-BritInVA
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post #8 of 25 Old 04-23-2013, 09:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nyal Mellor View Post

Question: did you think the door you did for that theater was equal in terms of soundproofing to the walls?

The walls were triple layers of 5/8 with GG on clips and channel. The door is the weakest link. If there had been room we probably would have done a double communicating door, as is there was only room for an out swinging door.

The epic story about how the owner was trapped in the theater for two hours waiting for a locksmith (when his biometric lock failed) is well documented in the thread.
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post #9 of 25 Old 04-23-2013, 10:13 AM
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This forum is really starting to annoy me. smile.gif I'm moving into a new house with a media room. I thought I was going to position my 5.1 speakers, buy a projector and some seating, and have the home theater I always wanted. Because of you people on this forum, the theater that I always wanted now involves copious quantities of sound insulation, isolated stages, Green Glue (which I had never heard of before 3 days ago), and I want to rip out sheetrock and move lights and doors. It's a freakin' new house, and I am thinking about reframing the door so I can insulate it before I even move in the house. I'm holding all of you responsible wink.gif

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post #10 of 25 Old 04-23-2013, 10:37 AM
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Glenn, you are not the only one in this situation.

I visited another AVS brother this weekend and asked him to test his new 3 week old house and the planned theater room. It is in the basement with two external walls. He was trying to decide what he needed to do in the way of soundproofing so I suggested he hook up some gear and test it. I got this from him yesterday:

"I did the homework and hooked up a Denon in the room with a sub and a couple floor standing speakers and blasted some music and action movie scenes, and the sound transfer was terrible. Even my crappy sub that I am using now was shaking vases on the main level and you could clearly hear in the upstairs. The audio was leaking very badly through the vents directly above (since they are hooked up to the same supply as the HT).

So, the way I see it, if I want to do this right, I'm going to need to demo the room. Pull the carpet/pad, pull the ceiling, pull the walls. At that point I am going to want to change from double doors to a single door entrance,"
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post #11 of 25 Old 04-23-2013, 12:53 PM - Thread Starter
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Wow a lot to think about. Should I include the frame for the door in the 9 foot long framing section. or separate them then nail them together? My basement concrete slab slopes gently towards the floor drain so perhaps by framing the door separate from the rest of the framed wall then nailing them together once I have the door frame nice and level might be best? Trying to make it easy to keep the door frame plumb and level.

Also the door is at a weird corner. The frame in the picture is on the exterior wall of the theater where the old door used to be.

Walls will not have clips or channel just double wall with 4 layers of DW total.

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post #12 of 25 Old 04-23-2013, 03:53 PM - Thread Starter
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post #13 of 25 Old 04-23-2013, 04:13 PM
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Making the door frame as an integral part of a long wall with continuous pieces of wood will make it stronger. When I do walls with doors I frame with a continuous top and bottom plate and only cut out the bottom plate for the door after everything is plumb and secured in location.
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post #14 of 25 Old 04-23-2013, 04:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Alrighty. Are commercial steel doors better than solid core wood doors?

Prehung or not for new construction?

Rough opening for a standard pre hung 28 x 80" door is 30" wide right?

Thanks.

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post #15 of 25 Old 04-23-2013, 09:16 PM - Thread Starter
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post #16 of 25 Old 04-24-2013, 06:19 AM
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Yes, for a door that is 28"w x 80"h I make the opening 30"w x 82-1/2"h.
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post #17 of 25 Old 04-24-2013, 02:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Are commercial steel doors better than solid core wood doors?

Also, I read that you shouldn't bore holes in the door for a knob. Is there another kind of, say, latch system that could be used?

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post #18 of 25 Old 04-25-2013, 03:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Anyone?


Also,
Would this door work.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_366872-77999-366872_0__?productId=3646650

What does this mean?:
"Finish Opening Width (Inches) 31.75
Finish Opening Height (Inches) 83.75"

Was going to attach 2 layers of 5/8" MDF to the theater side of the door as well.

I'm guessing it doesn't really matter what side the MDF is on so long as it is thick and GG'd?


The door will be opening into the theatre. So I would need to compensate for the height of the flooring as well. I should figure that out and make a bottom threshold the same height as the floor so the seal at the bottom can be flush and still open good into the theatre right? Am I thinking this out right or am I way off here.

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post #19 of 25 Old 04-26-2013, 02:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Anyone with some info please.

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post #20 of 25 Old 04-26-2013, 04:16 PM - Thread Starter
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Oh right, sorry Big, just have a lot going on right now. I did some more measuring today and the maximum height of the top plate I can go is 81 3/4". So subtract 1 1/2" for the thickness of the stud and i'm left with 80 1/4" from the bottom of the top plate to the bare concrete floor. So a standard 80" door will not fit there frown.gif Going to have to probably special order this door. Still have to measure how thick the floor will be from the concrete slab to get an accurate measure for how tall the door will need to be.

What have you guys used for a bottom threshold, just standard wood?

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post #21 of 25 Old 04-26-2013, 05:48 PM
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you can always cut a couple of inches off the bottom of a standard solid core door.
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post #22 of 25 Old 04-26-2013, 05:50 PM
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I use high version of the oak thresholds glued to the floor tucked under the door stops.
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post #23 of 25 Old 04-27-2013, 11:23 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

you can always cut a couple of inches off the bottom of a standard solid core door.

Oh I didn't think so since it would cut in to the solid core part...what would be the max I could cut? Would I have to reframe the bottom and put a filler back in?

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post #24 of 25 Old 04-27-2013, 04:49 PM
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exactly, you got someone in your crew who is going to lay on the floor and try to sneak a peak on the bottom edge of your door? That solid core isn't going to fall out the bottom.
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post #25 of 25 Old 10-03-2014, 09:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
Don't overlook the need to keep the pivot point of the hinges flush with swing side surface. If you add MDF put it on the other side and just move the stops.
The way to save money is to order a standard 1 3/4 particle core birch veneer office door pre-hung in a standard Jamb (get the widest they have) then add additional material as a jamb extension. When you pull the door stops replace with the Zero, Soundproofingcompany.com stocks them.

At Curve Frenzy I had them use 5 commercial grade hinges and we added two layers of 1/2 MDF with GG. The door, hinges and jamb was under $200. It went into a double famed wall and I filled in the remaining depth with MDF.

If your framing is plumb you can attach the hinge side directly to the frame without much shiming. Now here is the gotcha, If you have clips and channel with double DD on the walls, there won't be anything substantial to anchor your hinges. Standard procedure on these heavy doors is to replace the short screws with longer ones that go into the framing. So I attach a piece of 3/4 plywood to the framing that cantilevers out over the edge of the drywall to have something extra to grab. Thicker the better. You need to plan the for this extra material at the time of wall framing.
Kudos to Big for sage advice here!
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