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post #1 of 31 Old 04-26-2013, 04:07 AM - Thread Starter
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Well, things are starting to take shape in the design and plan of my space.

We are building on an addition to my house. This will be a heavy timber exposed beam type construction with vaulted ceilings. The open area will be a game room with pool table, ping pong, etc. The home theater area will have a bar in the rear with a couple of tables for seating and then two step-downs for the 2 rows of theater seating. The only change from the posted plan here is that the door has been moved to the rear of the theater so the door actually opens into the bar area instead of into the 2nd row of seats. The doors in the open area lead to a loft above the theater. The loft will house pinball machines, stand up arcade machines and such.

Addition plan.pdf 186k .pdf file

Here is a sketch of the screen wall (not to scale) We will be using GOM fabric to cover the speakers.

Screen wall sketch.pdf 2996k .pdf file (may need to rotate your view on this)

Here is a list of my components proposed by Mike Garrett. This basically fits my budget.

Sony VW1000ES: http://www.projectorreviews.com/sony/vpl-vw1000es/index.php
Stewart screen: http://www.stewartfilmscreen.com/residential/products/fixed_screens/luxus_deluxe_screenwall/luxus_deluxe_screenwall_residential.html See attached screen drawing.
Front three speakers: http://www.klipsch.com/kl-650-thx-bookshelf-speaker
Side surround speakers: http://www.klipsch.com/ks-525-thx-surround-speakers-pair
Back surround speakers: http://www.klipsch.com/kl-7502-thx-in-ceiling-speaker
Two subwoofers: http://www.klipsch.com/kw-120-thx-subwoofer
Subwoofer amp: http://www.klipsch.com/ka-1000-thx-amplifier
Denon AVR-4520: http://usa.denon.com/us/product/pages/productdetail.aspx?pcatid=avsolutions(denonna)&catalog=denonna_us&catid=avreceivers(denonna)&pid=avr4520ci(denonna)
Oppo BDP-103: http://www.oppodigital.com/blu-ray-bdp-103/

Screen size is a 10'10" wide 2.35 screen.

We are still working out a few details and I'm trying to decide on any masking system. We may recess the screen somewhat and put a curtain-type masking system within the shadow box. Still trying to decide on what to do with that.

Any thoughts or helpful input is appreciated.

Darin
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Addition plan.pdf (186.1 KB, 53 views)
File Type: pdf Screen wall sketch.pdf (2.93 MB, 40 views)
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post #2 of 31 Old 04-26-2013, 06:06 AM
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Only suggestion to the list of equipment (because I made this mistake myself), is to get a separate 7 channel amplifier, and a lower cost AVR with pre-outs. With each new version of HDMI (1.0 was released in 2002), we've had four additional versions added in just 10 years. I caught myself constantly chasing each version with expensive AVR's because I needed the big powerful amps built into them.

Admittedly, the Denon you list can handle external inputs from a future AVR, but if you went that route you'd end up using none of this AVR's additional feature when you upgraded.

I'd think about doing something like this if you don't have a lot of input requirements:
Anthem MRX-300 (this gets you ARC at a very low cost) http://anthemav.com/products/anthem/a-v-receiver/mrx-300

Then throw in some beast like this:
NAD Master Series 7 channel amp http://nadelectronics.com/products/masters-series/M25-7-Channel-Amplifier

If you need the bells & whistles (advanced networking, ipad control) go for an AVR like this:
Yamaha RX-A820 http://usa.yamaha.com/products/audio-visual/aventage/rx-a820_black_u/?mode=model
or this
Denon 2113CI http://usa.denon.com/us/product/pages/productdetail.aspx?catalog=denonna_us&pcatid=avsolutions(denonna)&catid=avreceivers(denonna)&pid=avr2113ci(denonna)

Good luck!

Why is there NO perfect equipment, only compromises?
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post #3 of 31 Old 04-27-2013, 07:26 AM
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Hey Darin -

I took a look at the plans - should be interesting to watch this evolve. Please post some pictures of the space throughout the process. Love construction and watching things come together. We should hook up at some point, I can show you the design s the DE did for me. I'm hoping to wrap up love voltage, insulation and drywall this summer (depending on my knee situation). After you building out the theater yourself once the addition is done?

Bud
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post #4 of 31 Old 04-27-2013, 04:19 PM
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I would use an acoustically transparent screen and get the center channel tucked behind it. Stewart isn't the only game in town.
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post #5 of 31 Old 04-30-2013, 09:56 AM - Thread Starter
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I was told the AT screen would double my screen cost from a quoted $3500. As I am trying to hold to a budget, I kind of figured that there was not $3500 worth of "better" going with the AT screen. Any suggestions on cost/benefit and perhaps other more cost-effective screen solution which I may want to consider?
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post #6 of 31 Old 04-30-2013, 10:39 AM
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Jamestown theater screen with the Seymour centerstage XD material. I have the exact same size screen that you are looking at (130" wide, 2.35:1) and I got mine for well under $1k. It isn't top of the line but it is still a nice product. Several people on this board have this screen setup. Most, if not all, would probably give it a positive review. Just make sure you order well in advance of when you need it. They are slow to deliver.
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post #7 of 31 Old 05-02-2013, 06:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vanice View Post

Jamestown theater screen with the Seymour centerstage XD material. I have the exact same size screen that you are looking at (130" wide, 2.35:1) and I got mine for well under $1k. It isn't top of the line but it is still a nice product. Several people on this board have this screen setup. Most, if not all, would probably give it a positive review. Just make sure you order well in advance of when you need it. They are slow to deliver.
+1. Love my Jamestown frame with the Seymour Centerstage XD. Mine is only 120" wide 2.35:1, and it was well south of $1K. The only thing to keep in mind with Jamestown is they are a small shop and can get backed up pretty easy (at least this was the case for me in Oct-Nov 2012). So if you can plan ahead and leave plenty of time from ordering to when you need it, I can't see any way you would be disappointed.
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post #8 of 31 Old 05-02-2013, 06:52 AM
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You could also get the whole package (screen material and solid aluminum frame) directly from SeymourAV for less than half of your original $3500 non-AT quote. Not quite as cheap as the Jamestown package, but still worth considering.
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post #9 of 31 Old 06-10-2013, 02:37 PM - Thread Starter
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I am planning on using a separate HVAC for the theater and one for the play area. I remember seeing somewhere some specs for airflow into a theater (large volume with low flow rates) in order to keep up with the load required but doing it quietly. For some reason, I'm having a hard time finding those specs which I've seen somewhere on the AVSforum. Can someone point me in the right direction so I can pass it along to my HVAC contractor as they are in the planning phase for my addition and theater.

Thanks
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post #10 of 31 Old 06-10-2013, 03:16 PM - Thread Starter
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Maybe I found my info...if I tell my HVAC folks I need NC20 and FPM of 250 will that be all they need to size and figure out my system?
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post #11 of 31 Old 06-10-2013, 11:09 PM
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Nope. HVAC contractors have really no clue nor any way to measure NC20. Any one who says sure, we can do that....avoid. You need an acoustician to measure it with very sensitive microphones and equipment. Big bucks. Second, you have not specified anything of real value to the HVAC contractor. It is better to specify a target temperature as well as NC20. Third, residential contractors have no clue what you are talking about since they more than likely have never heard of that. You need someone to design the HVAC system. Whether a home theater designer or commercial HVAC contractor. However, expect most of them to run when you start holding their feet to the fire regarding target specifics.

Shawn Byrne
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HAA Design Certified -THX Certified Professional

Design-Video & Audio Calibration Information

The original Pro Theater Layout
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post #12 of 31 Old 06-11-2013, 02:21 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SierraMikeBravo View Post

Nope. HVAC contractors have really no clue nor any way to measure NC20. Any one who says sure, we can do that....avoid. You need an acoustician to measure it with very sensitive microphones and equipment. Big bucks. Second, you have not specified anything of real value to the HVAC contractor. It is better to specify a target temperature as well as NC20. Third, residential contractors have no clue what you are talking about since they more than likely have never heard of that. You need someone to design the HVAC system. Whether a home theater designer or commercial HVAC contractor. However, expect most of them to run when you start holding their feet to the fire regarding target specifics.

I was afraid I may hear something like that. I can understand the NC20 and not being able to do that...what about air flow rates, volume, temp, etc. Is the FPM of 250 a reasonable target or is it better to go with one of those split-type systems which gets installed in the wall?
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post #13 of 31 Old 06-11-2013, 09:10 AM
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The airflow is a guideline to hopefully maintain a temperature range, but that is dependent on how big the room is, how many people, where the equipment is, etc. It is much more useful to specify a temperature range than anything else. The NC20 aspect is relatively easy to maintain provided that certain laws of physics are understood and adhered to. Things like Bernoulli's principal, wave mechanics and resonance, and sound propagation. A separate system would be ideal, but a zoned system is your best bet. Further, how the HVAC enters the room if you are sound isolating the room (NC20), is absolutely critical.

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HAA Design Certified -THX Certified Professional

Design-Video & Audio Calibration Information

The original Pro Theater Layout
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post #14 of 31 Old 06-11-2013, 05:18 PM
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I'm going to bring up equipment again, even though it hasn't been mentioned on here in a while. Save money on the screen and go with Jamestown or Seymour AV. Jamestown uses the same material as Seymour AV but I've never heard one person that has ordered one, say anything good about their service. They seem to be the cheapest AT screen around but I've seen guys wait for weeks after their screen was supposed to arrive before it actually did. And I'm gonna reiterate what SimpleTheater said, and tell you to get an amp. Audiogon.com has them for sale all day long at good prices. Sherbourn has theirs on sale right now as I type this. Also, if budget is a concern, there are also better priced receivers and preamps that will provide you with the same features for a little less money. If Audyssey MultiEQXT32 is what your looking for then maybe look at the Denon AVR-4311. It's a year or 2 older than the one you wanted but can be had for $1200 with a warranty and I can assure you the sound coming from the 4520 will be the same as the 4311.
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post #15 of 31 Old 06-12-2013, 02:47 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JVoth View Post

I'm going to bring up equipment again, even though it hasn't been mentioned on here in a while. Save money on the screen and go with Jamestown or Seymour AV. Jamestown uses the same material as Seymour AV but I've never heard one person that has ordered one, say anything good about their service. They seem to be the cheapest AT screen around but I've seen guys wait for weeks after their screen was supposed to arrive before it actually did. And I'm gonna reiterate what SimpleTheater said, and tell you to get an amp. Audiogon.com has them for sale all day long at good prices. Sherbourn has theirs on sale right now as I type this. Also, if budget is a concern, there are also better priced receivers and preamps that will provide you with the same features for a little less money. If Audyssey MultiEQXT32 is what your looking for then maybe look at the Denon AVR-4311. It's a year or 2 older than the one you wanted but can be had for $1200 with a warranty and I can assure you the sound coming from the 4520 will be the same as the 4311.

Great info. I just went to the Sherbourn website. As I'm new to any high end A/V equipment purchases, what should I be looking for in the amp? Also, I like your idea about the older model Denon. I want to get the best bang for the buck.

As far as the screen goes, the way it was described to me is that for the size of my screen (130" wide) and the projector I need a screen with a 1.5 gain. Apparently the Stewart screen is the only one which has gain. The Seymour screen's actual gain is less than what is listed. I was basically told that the Stewart is my only option for an AT screen with the gain I will need to get the brightness I will want.
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post #16 of 31 Old 06-12-2013, 02:50 AM - Thread Starter
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One more thing...we did figure out a way with the architect so that I have the same speakers in the rear as up front and do not need to put in-ceiling speakers for my rears. I'll try to post an updated floor plan and theater plans later today or tomorrow.
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post #17 of 31 Old 06-12-2013, 07:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DarinS View Post

Great info. I just went to the Sherbourn website. As I'm new to any high end A/V equipment purchases, what should I be looking for in the amp? Also, I like your idea about the older model Denon. I want to get the best bang for the buck.

As far as the screen goes, the way it was described to me is that for the size of my screen (130" wide) and the projector I need a screen with a 1.5 gain. Apparently the Stewart screen is the only one which has gain. The Seymour screen's actual gain is less than what is listed. I was basically told that the Stewart is my only option for an AT screen with the gain I will need to get the brightness I will want.
Darin,
I think the first thing I to do need is figure out what your goals are. Please don't take this as an insult because that's the last thing I would want to do. I am a very budget conscious AV guy myself. I've heard you say the words budget and bang for the buck more than once and we're not even off the first page of your thread yet. The reason I'm confused is because you have a $25,000 projector listed in your equipment along with a speaker package that is really expensive as well. So I have some questions:

1. Is 4K a requirement? I'm not an early adopter kind of a guy. You can get a really nice bright projector for far less than the Sony and just buy a 4K when it becomes more mainstream and thus, less expensive.

2. I couldn't tell from the sketch, but it looks like your theater is 38 feet by 18 or 20 feet? Tell me if I'm looking at that right. I'm not a construction guy like a lot of these people on here. I'm a "find good equipment cheap" kind of a guy.
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post #18 of 31 Old 06-12-2013, 08:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Darin,
I think the first thing I to do need is figure out what your goals are. Please don't take this as an insult because that's the last thing I would want to do. I am a very budget conscious AV guy myself. I've heard you say the words budget and bang for the buck more than once and we're not even off the first page of your thread yet. The reason I'm confused is because you have a $25,000 projector listed in your equipment along with a speaker package that is really expensive as well. So I have some questions:

1. Is 4K a requirement? I'm not an early adopter kind of a guy. You can get a really nice bright projector for far less than the Sony and just buy a 4K when it becomes more mainstream and thus, less expensive.

2. I couldn't tell from the sketch, but it looks like your theater is 38 feet by 18 or 20 feet? Tell me if I'm looking at that right. I'm not a construction guy like a lot of these people on here. I'm a "find good equipment cheap" kind of a guy.

LOL, no offense taken at all smile.gif

With one of the AVS guys I can get the projector (refurb) for $15k. I've spoken with the rep numerous times about my set up. I am going with an AT screen which is 2.4 and 130" wide. My throw distance is 19'. That does limit some of the projectors I could use and still have a good fL on the 1.5 gain screen. That doesn't mean something else may not work but I can probably stomach $15k but I would not an extra $10k. My original budget for the screen and A/V was $25k itself. I may go over that somewhat but I should have a very nice system which is hopefully future-proofed somewhat.

Yeah, it is a pretty big space. The size yields the bigger screen, which yields the more expensive screen and projector, which yields the amps and speakers (I mean, I would hate to spend all this money and then be upset I under did speakers for example). It all seems to balloon on itself. That being said, I am certainly open to thoughts and will be looking into other receiver/amp combos like suggested above.

Here is another question on the A/V stuff...if I go with the Sony VW1000ES (which is a 4k projector and apparently does a very nice job with upconverting content) do I really need to go with an Oppo Blu Ray player or no? Same question with upconverting receiver...I'm not sure I see the point in having numerous components capable of doing the same thing. I could be missing something on this as, again, I'm new to this stuff.

Darin
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post #19 of 31 Old 06-13-2013, 05:48 AM
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LOL, no offense taken at all smile.gif

With one of the AVS guys I can get the projector (refurb) for $15k. I've spoken with the rep numerous times about my set up. I am going with an AT screen which is 2.4 and 130" wide. My throw distance is 19'. That does limit some of the projectors I could use and still have a good fL on the 1.5 gain screen. That doesn't mean something else may not work but I can probably stomach $15k but I would not an extra $10k. My original budget for the screen and A/V was $25k itself. I may go over that somewhat but I should have a very nice system which is hopefully future-proofed somewhat.

Yeah, it is a pretty big space. The size yields the bigger screen, which yields the more expensive screen and projector, which yields the amps and speakers (I mean, I would hate to spend all this money and then be upset I under did speakers for example). It all seems to balloon on itself. That being said, I am certainly open to thoughts and will be looking into other receiver/amp combos like suggested above.

Here is another question on the A/V stuff...if I go with the Sony VW1000ES (which is a 4k projector and apparently does a very nice job with upconverting content) do I really need to go with an Oppo Blu Ray player or no? Same question with upconverting receiver...I'm not sure I see the point in having numerous components capable of doing the same thing. I could be missing something on this as, again, I'm new to this stuff.

Darin
Well with that screen size, it looks like you're stuck with 4K. Darn. I'm gonna suggest a Seymour AV screen. These guys ship fast and make a great product. If you're looking for acoustically transparent masking, look to add at least another 6K to 8K more.

As far as the second question, yes you will need a blu-ray player or a source that can play 4K content. If you do not care about 4K at this time since there isn't a lot of materials out there right now, then any blu-ray player will do. I'm gonna suggest the Oppo though. If the only reason you are getting the Sony projector is for light output, then you can save yourself 12 grand and buy an Epson or Panasonic projector. They put out plenty of light and throw a good picture as well. But they are not 4K capable. So, assuming you are going with the 4K Sony, then you will need a source (Oppo) that can pass 4K. Also, I'm assuming that you are going to have multiple HDMI sources such as DIrecTV or Dish, AppleTV, video games, etc. So, your HDMI switch will need to be able to pass 4K content as well. Your HDMI switch being your pre amp in this case. So to sum up, you need a 4K source (Oppo), 4K HDMI switch (built into your preamp), and a 4K projector.
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post #20 of 31 Old 06-13-2013, 08:31 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the clarification. If I go with a nice pre-amp, what features/power should I be looking for in the AVR? Is it recommended to have something with the Audyssey equalizer in it?
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Thanks for the clarification. If I go with a nice pre-amp, what features/power should I be looking for in the AVR? Is it recommended to have something with the Audyssey equalizer in it?
That's a question that is kinda hard to answer. I'm not a fan of Audyssee. But I'm not new to the A/V world either. I like fiddling with parametric eq's and video calibration and all that good stuff. Many people do not. If you plan on having a pro come out and calibrate your audio system then I would ask that particular calibrator what he's most comfortable with. If you want to do it yourself but want to keep it simple, then Audyssey is the way to go. As far as power on an AVR, I wouldn't worry about that. I think you should get a separate power amplifier. And as far as power amps go, it's hard not to recommend Emotiva.
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post #22 of 31 Old 06-17-2013, 05:24 PM - Thread Starter
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Would this be overkill or worth the extra grand?

http://www.sherbourn.com/products/pa7350

paired with

http://www.amazon.com/Denon-AVR-4311CI-Channel-Multi-Room-Receiver/dp/B0042KVX2S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1371514618&sr=8-1&keywords=denon+avr+4311


I think it would be a thousand bucks more than just the newer Denon AVR but the consensus sounds like I should get a separate amp and I see this sale on the amp. I
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post #23 of 31 Old 06-17-2013, 06:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DarinS View Post

Would this be overkill or worth the extra grand?

http://www.sherbourn.com/products/pa7350

paired with

http://www.amazon.com/Denon-AVR-4311CI-Channel-Multi-Room-Receiver/dp/B0042KVX2S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1371514618&sr=8-1&keywords=denon+avr+4311


I think it would be a thousand bucks more than just the newer Denon AVR but the consensus sounds like I should get a separate amp and I see this sale on the amp. I
You need to rid the word "overkill" from your vocabulary while on this forum. Go to www.accessories4less.com for the Denon. It's only $1199 with free shipping there. It's factory refurbished but will have a factory warranty. They are authorized dealers. Also the PA 7-150 is what I just bought and my inefficient M&K's have never sounded so good. Your Klipsch's are far more efficient than my speakers so that may be an option for you. The 150 is only $1050 I believe. If its not enough power, you can always sell it and get a more powerful one.
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post #24 of 31 Old 06-17-2013, 07:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by JVoth View Post

You need to rid the word "overkill" from your vocabulary while on this forum. Go to www.accessories4less.com for the Denon. It's only $1199 with free shipping there. It's factory refurbished but will have a factory warranty. They are authorized dealers. Also the PA 7-150 is what I just bought and my inefficient M&K's have never sounded so good. Your Klipsch's are far more efficient than my speakers so that may be an option for you. The 150 is only $1050 I believe. If its not enough power, you can always sell it and get a more powerful one.

Yeah, I guess 'overkill' is probably not recognized vocabulary. I need to get with the program. I guess I should have asked if that set up would be kick a** better than one without the amp and worth the extra cash.

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post #25 of 31 Old 06-25-2013, 06:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Well, just got all my bids in today from the general contractors. Have to go through them a little bit and decide on one soon so I can get this ball rolling.

BTW, I spoke with Keith at Sherbourn. Sounds like this might be something worth considering: http://www.sherbourn.com/collections/theater/products/pt-7030-and-free-pa-7-150

Keith seemed to think their 150 wpc amp paired with the pre/pro 7030 would be more than adequate for my space.

He did raise a couple of questions:

1. he said he wasn't keen on the Klipsch speakers but I've always heard they are great...any thoughts or experience there?
2. he mentioned to me that most people buy powered subs thereby not needing the sub amp. From what I've read the subs and sub amp on my list sound great. With that being said, any thoughts on the subs as well?

Darin
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post #26 of 31 Old 06-27-2013, 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by DarinS View Post

Well, just got all my bids in today from the general contractors. Have to go through them a little bit and decide on one soon so I can get this ball rolling.

BTW, I spoke with Keith at Sherbourn. Sounds like this might be something worth considering: http://www.sherbourn.com/collections/theater/products/pt-7030-and-free-pa-7-150

Keith seemed to think their 150 wpc amp paired with the pre/pro 7030 would be more than adequate for my space.

He did raise a couple of questions:

1. he said he wasn't keen on the Klipsch speakers but I've always heard they are great...any thoughts or experience there?
2. he mentioned to me that most people buy powered subs thereby not needing the sub amp. From what I've read the subs and sub amp on my list sound great. With that being said, any thoughts on the subs as well?

Darin

2) No specific need to go with Klipsch on this one, that is a HECK of a lot to pay for a ported long-throw 12" Subwoofer.

For the price of that subwoofer setup you could probably do a lot better IF you are willing to do a little DIY.
For example, 4 of the Dayton Reference RSS460HO-4 Subs in CNC cut boxes from DIY sound group with something like a Behringer iNuke 6000 DSP powering it would actually cost less and deliver a lot more.
This sub:http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=295-472
This amp: http://www.behringer.com/EN/Products/NU6000DSP.aspx
This box: http://www.diysoundgroup.com/subwoofer-flatpacks-2/sealed-subwoofer-flatpacks/4-sub-flat-pack.html

Just an idea. The sealed 18s have much more output from 10-25 Hz than most ported designs, which roll off sharply and/or have filters around 25 Hz sometimes higher.
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post #27 of 31 Old 06-27-2013, 03:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djkest View Post

2) No specific need to go with Klipsch on this one, that is a HECK of a lot to pay for a ported long-throw 12" Subwoofer.

For the price of that subwoofer setup you could probably do a lot better IF you are willing to do a little DIY.
For example, 4 of the Dayton Reference RSS460HO-4 Subs in CNC cut boxes from DIY sound group with something like a Behringer iNuke 6000 DSP powering it would actually cost less and deliver a lot more.
This sub:http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=295-472
This amp: http://www.behringer.com/EN/Products/NU6000DSP.aspx
This box: http://www.diysoundgroup.com/subwoofer-flatpacks-2/sealed-subwoofer-flatpacks/4-sub-flat-pack.html

Just an idea. The sealed 18s have much more output from 10-25 Hz than most ported designs, which roll off sharply and/or have filters around 25 Hz sometimes higher.
No offense to Darin but I don't think he's a DIY guy. He's hiring contractors to build his theater. Again, that's not an insult. I'm not a DIY guy either.
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post #28 of 31 Old 06-27-2013, 04:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DarinS View Post

Well, just got all my bids in today from the general contractors. Have to go through them a little bit and decide on one soon so I can get this ball rolling.

BTW, I spoke with Keith at Sherbourn. Sounds like this might be something worth considering: http://www.sherbourn.com/collections/theater/products/pt-7030-and-free-pa-7-150

Keith seemed to think their 150 wpc amp paired with the pre/pro 7030 would be more than adequate for my space.

He did raise a couple of questions:

1. he said he wasn't keen on the Klipsch speakers but I've always heard they are great...any thoughts or experience there?
2. he mentioned to me that most people buy powered subs thereby not needing the sub amp. From what I've read the subs and sub amp on my list sound great. With that being said, any thoughts on the subs as well?

Darin
1. I've never had the opportunity in person to listen to the THX Klipsch, so I can't say from personal experience, but I don't think I've read a bad review anywhere. Moggie, I know for sure uses them in his theater and it is one of the nicer rooms you'll see on this forum. The link is here. Maybe you could PM him and he could give you some insight. I use M&K in mine but you are gonna pay roughly the same price for an equal setup.
2. If you wanna save money, there are probably cheaper options out there for subs if you wanna do the research. Not sure what you are paying for the Klipsch subs but yeah you can go a little cheaper and still get great sound. Getting a self powered sub will save room on the equipment rack too. If you are getting a package deal on the Klipsch THX 2 setup, then maybe it would be easier just to stick with one brand. If not, then I would definitely go sub shopping. Try SVS. They are well known for quality and customer service.
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post #29 of 31 Old 06-28-2013, 05:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djkest View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by DarinS View Post

Well, just got all my bids in today from the general contractors. Have to go through them a little bit and decide on one soon so I can get this ball rolling.

BTW, I spoke with Keith at Sherbourn. Sounds like this might be something worth considering: http://www.sherbourn.com/collections/theater/products/pt-7030-and-free-pa-7-150

Keith seemed to think their 150 wpc amp paired with the pre/pro 7030 would be more than adequate for my space.

He did raise a couple of questions:

1. he said he wasn't keen on the Klipsch speakers but I've always heard they are great...any thoughts or experience there?
2. he mentioned to me that most people buy powered subs thereby not needing the sub amp. From what I've read the subs and sub amp on my list sound great. With that being said, any thoughts on the subs as well?

Darin

2) No specific need to go with Klipsch on this one, that is a HECK of a lot to pay for a ported long-throw 12" Subwoofer.

For the price of that subwoofer setup you could probably do a lot better IF you are willing to do a little DIY.
For example, 4 of the Dayton Reference RSS460HO-4 Subs in CNC cut boxes from DIY sound group with something like a Behringer iNuke 6000 DSP powering it would actually cost less and deliver a lot more.
This sub:http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=295-472
This amp: http://www.behringer.com/EN/Products/NU6000DSP.aspx
This box: http://www.diysoundgroup.com/subwoofer-flatpacks-2/sealed-subwoofer-flatpacks/4-sub-flat-pack.html

Just an idea. The sealed 18s have much more output from 10-25 Hz than most ported designs, which roll off sharply and/or have filters around 25 Hz sometimes higher.


If you like this option but dont want to build them yourself - then you coukd have somone ekse biukd these fir you, or some of the others from DIY sound group or Bill F - there is "builders" list and group that would build it for you for a reasonable cost.

-

"Too much is almost enough. Anything in life worth doing is worth overdoing. Moderation is for cowards."
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post #30 of 31 Old 01-01-2014, 04:04 PM
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Any updates for us Darin?
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