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post #1 of 80 Old 04-27-2013, 10:03 PM - Thread Starter
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ETA: Name changed to reflect the unique nature of my space. It is in fact a wide hallway since you must travel through the room to access the rest of the basement.

So it looks like it's my turn finally. I helped my friend with some parts of his theater room in 2003-2005 and knew that some day I really wanted my own space. This won't be perfect or ideal, but I hope it will be the best than can be done with the space that I have in my house.

Challenge- build out a fully finished, acoustically treated, and decorated movie / 2 channel room for $5000. And I am paying for some of my labor, but doing a lot myself. Room is approx 12 x 18' with an intruding HVAC, sump pump, and furnace.

Pictures are useful, so here's what I'm working with. I may be missing something but I hope not.


You'll notice that the orientation seems to be off by 90 degrees. This is intentional. The problem is the layout of my basement. Not only is this room between the stairs and the rest of the basement, but the laundry room is also down here. So, in order to facilitate ease of passage, this compromise must be made. One advantage is that we should have nice spacing for most of the speakers except SBL and SBR.

Electrical. I still need to figure out the best place for the outlets and lights. Code states 1 outlet maximum 6' from every door. And then 12' maximum to the next outlet. It appears that this means you need one outlet on each side of the door within 6'. So in my case that will dictate at least 4 outlets. Preliminary electrical:


Sound measures:
I am going to try and squeeze 2 layers of 1/2" drywall and 2 cases of green glue into the budget, as well as some GG sealant. Also resilient channel. The green glue and DD will be used on 2 walls and on the ceiling. The two walls that are exterior walls will be a single layer of drywall.

It's called the Over Budget theater because my wife said "I'm sure you are going to go over budget" and I'm pretty sure she's right. I will be posting all the costs for anyone who is interested. We'll see how close my estimate is. My current budget says $4990.13.

As far as equipment goes, for now it will be what I already have- Paradigm Monitor 9s and CC-290 for the front stage, my 18" and 12" subwoofers- for now. I am hoping to build a SEOS kit from DIY sound group for the SL and SR channels, we'll see how that goes. Oh yeah, TV. We have a 46" Toshiba Edge-lit LED TV for now. I am trying to convince my wife we need a 60" or 70" TV- at that viewing distance, should be plenty big enough. I am kicking around the idea of running some HDMI cable in a conduit in case we get a projector. Although screen size probably couldn't be bigger than about 80"

I expect I will have a TON of questions and so I am going to say thanks in advance for your advice and tips.
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post #2 of 80 Old 04-28-2013, 12:03 PM - Thread Starter
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Just got back from Lowes and I think I scored. They currently have 15% off all custom-order doors so I thought I'd go in and take a look.

I specced out 2 doors, 1 3/4" thick, 2-panel, pre-hung, seals, adjustable threshold- $169.09 each. Brushed nickle hinges.
Budget had $250 for each door, so that saves me $140! Ordered one in 36" and one in 32". They are fire-rated- essentially like the door people have to the garage but a little nicer looking.

Doors should be here in 10 days or less. It's on.




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post #3 of 80 Old 04-30-2013, 06:37 AM
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Just curious about the doors. We're they interior solid core doors? You mentioned that they were the same doors used in garages and those are sometimes exterior doors.

Looks like you are off to a great start. I will be seriously impressed if you stay within the budget! Good luck!
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post #4 of 80 Old 04-30-2013, 07:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djkest View Post

Just got back from Lowes and I think I scored. They currently have 15% off all custom-order doors so I thought I'd go in and take a look.

I specced out 2 doors, 1 3/4" thick, 2-panel, pre-hung, seals, adjustable threshold- $169.09 each. Brushed nickle hinges.
Budget had $250 for each door, so that saves me $140! Ordered one in 36" and one in 32". They are fire-rated- essentially like the door people have to the garage but a little nicer looking.

Sounds like my Masonite 1 3/4" solid core Safe and Sound door... pre-hung, kerfed and weatherstripped, with a sweep, although my hinges are brushed chrome. 2 panel square top smooth? If so, I paid $205 plus tax from a door supplier up here for this very door.
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post #5 of 80 Old 04-30-2013, 07:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djkest View Post

Sound measures:
I am going to try and squeeze 2 layers of 1/2" drywall and 2 cases of green glue into the budget, as well as some GG sealant. Also resilient channel. The green glue and DD will be used on 2 walls and on the ceiling. The two walls that are exterior walls will be a single layer of drywall.

Can you explain your soundproofing plan with a little more detail? It sounds like you are on the right track but I noticed that you are only treating two of the walls with DD and GG. Why not the other two walls? Mass and GG are your friends. Any chance of stepping up to 5/8" drywall? Are you just planning to use the channel on the ceiling? If so, what are you planning to use to decouple the walls? Just want to make sure that you get the soundproofed shell you are looking and paying for and not short-circuiting it somewhere that will hinder the end result.
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post #6 of 80 Old 04-30-2013, 08:21 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jedimastergrant View Post

Just curious about the doors. We're they interior solid core doors? You mentioned that they were the same doors used in garages and those are sometimes exterior doors.

Looks like you are off to a great start. I will be seriously impressed if you stay within the budget! Good luck!

Yeah, they are made by "Relia-built" from Lowes, special order. They are 1 3/4" Solid core interior doors, but they said the adjustable threshold and sealed jams make it very similar to the doors used between the garage and the house. They are 2-panel doors in a basic style that matches all the other doors in the house. They have a textured surface. They are 20 minute fire-rated, so that's a bonus I guess.
I will also be seriously impressed if I stay within budget. I'm keeping track of every penny spent on a spreadsheet. Luckily, I don't think I'll need to buy any tools.
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Can you explain your soundproofing plan with a little more detail? It sounds like you are on the right track but I noticed that you are only treating two of the walls with DD and GG. Why not the other two walls? Mass and GG are your friends. Any chance of stepping up to 5/8" drywall? Are you just planning to use the channel on the ceiling? If so, what are you planning to use to decouple the walls? Just want to make sure that you get the soundproofed shell you are looking and paying for and not short-circuiting it somewhere that will hinder the end result.

Sure. So in this room what I am primarily concerned with is sound passing upstairs and into the stairwell (and then upstairs). I am not worried about the sound going outside (although maybe I should be) or into the rest of the basement.

I just got a quote from a local drywall place and I think 5/8" Type-X drywall is back in the budget. So here's what I'm looking at. A complete "shell" of 5/8" drywall, and then GG + 1/2" drywall on 2 walls and the ceiling.
Short wall 1- 50% underground/cement, exterior wall. Will get 5/8" drywall
Short wall 2- interior wall, to the rest of the basement. Will get 5/8" drywall +GG and 1/2" drywall
Long wall 1- 10% underground/cement, exterior wall. Will get 5/8" drywall
Long wall 2- Interior wall to the rest of the basement and the stairwell. Will get 5/8" drywall + GG + 1/2" drywall
Ceiling- will get resilient channel, possibly also clips if I can afford them. 5/8" drywall + GG + 1/2" drywall. Will build some backer boxes for all can lights or other intrusions. I wil also be using GG sealant a lot on the subfloor above.

Hope this makes sense. The 5/8" is a buck more a sheet, which isn't too bad. I was thinking putting a layer of 1/2" with the green glue would make it cheaper but also easier to place. I know that if I use clips, resilient channel, and 2 layers of 5/8" drywall I'm coming real close to the lower limit of allowable ceiling height, which is 7' 6" I think.
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post #7 of 80 Old 04-30-2013, 08:53 AM - Thread Starter
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Here's my plans for one of the trouble walls. Hopefully this makes some sense. The bottom portion and the left side will be bumped out 4" or so. The top/right side will be recessed and will allow for a large built-in bookshelf area. There's a sump pump to deal with in the corner, and then another 4" bump out where the foundation is on the 2nd wall on the right. More possible bookshelf space. One possible issue is that my surround speaker will also be located in this area.
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post #8 of 80 Old 04-30-2013, 10:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djkest View Post

Short wall 1- 50% underground/cement, exterior wall. Will get 5/8" drywall
Short wall 2- interior wall, to the rest of the basement. Will get 5/8" drywall +GG and 1/2" drywall
Long wall 1- 10% underground/cement, exterior wall. Will get 5/8" drywall
Long wall 2- Interior wall to the rest of the basement and the stairwell. Will get 5/8" drywall + GG + 1/2" drywall
Ceiling- will get resilient channel, possibly also clips if I can afford them. 5/8" drywall + GG + 1/2" drywall. Will build some backer boxes for all can lights or other intrusions. I wil also be using GG sealant a lot on the subfloor above.

Hope this makes sense. The 5/8" is a buck more a sheet, which isn't too bad. I was thinking putting a layer of 1/2" with the green glue would make it cheaper but also easier to place. I know that if I use clips, resilient channel, and 2 layers of 5/8" drywall I'm coming real close to the lower limit of allowable ceiling height, which is 7' 6" I think.

I've had these thoughts myself a few weeks ago and have since further developed my SP plan, thanks to http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/ Read everything here before you get too far.

With regards to 1/2 or 5/8 drywall, go with 5/8 wherever possible to increase MASS of the walls. The heavier it is, the harder it is to vibrate it and transfer sound. Mass is 1 of 4 key elements to soundproofing.

With regards to single versus double drywall on some walls, not others, read up on the site about flanking. Also note that you can always try single sheet on some walls, and add on GG and another layer later on.

With regards to using clips and hat channel or not due to budget concerns, consider the 'honda' of clips- http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/soundproofing-products/soundproofing-clips/ib-1-sound-isolation-clip/ which cost ~$2 each compared to the higher end clips at $5+. No one recommends the old school 'resilient channel' anymore for many reasons- lack of manufacturing standards, varying gauges, short circuiting during installation is easy (drywall screw through the channel and into a stud/joist thus defeating the decoupling altogether for the entire plane).

With regards to long wall 2- considering clip and channel here as well. Stairwells are apparently great transmitters of sound.
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post #9 of 80 Old 04-30-2013, 11:01 AM
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I am a little worried that you are missing one key area in your soundproofing plan. You have addressed the ceiling with clips and channel to decouple it but you have neglected all four walls. They will vibrate and transmit sound up through the floor joists and into the floor above because there is no decoupling there. This is why many use the IB-3 clips, or room within a room, or clips and channel for the walls. You really need to decouple the whole room or you get flanking (which swerve mentioned above) and limited results from your efforts. I just wanted to throw that out there because I would hate to see you spend extra money and then be unhappy with the results. Ted from the Soundproofing Company is an excellent resource and can give you more reasons behind the methods than I can.
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post #10 of 80 Old 04-30-2013, 11:19 AM - Thread Starter
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Yeah I have contacted the soundproofing company twice and recieved no response, so I'm not sure what's going on there. It would be helpful to get a quote on what I need to buy. I found a local place that stocks 25 gauge resilient channel but I am unsure of how many rows I will need and the proper spacing for the 12' width. When hanging drywall (myself) it will be easy for me to avoid short circuiting the channel.

I can run some budgets to see what it would cost if I decoupled all the walls. I really need a large improvement in sound reduction because I would like to be able to listen to music or movies at -10 (95 db ish) and have my wife upstairs be happy with the noise level. At least the room directly above this has thick carpet and upgraded padding, so no transmission noise that way.

One possible area I can save money is the carpet. I have budgeted $900 but it's possible if I do the install myself and get some relatively cheap carpet I could do it for about $600, I could put that money directly into drywall and green glue.

I could also save a TON of money if I did the framing myself instead of paying someone. I have no idea how it works but the longer I wait for this quote I am tempted to take up that endeavor. Unfortunately anyone who could potentially help me with framing lives 2 hours away from me and is unlikely to want to help.

I hear you on the flanking noise. That is a major concern of mine. This is all about balancing my needs vs. budget.

**Update**
Got the quote back from the framing guy. Under budget by a couple hundred bucks! And this is a guy who is highly rated on Angie's List. He'll have it complete in 1 day.

FWIW I think I will upgrade to 2 layers of 5/8" Type-X drywall and green glue for all the walls. Still need to hear back for the soundproofing company to see what the damage might be.

**Update 2**
In the process of moving the Satellite RG6 cable so that it isn't protruding below the ceiling joists. This is actually quite the pain. An hour into it and I'm not done yet. Time for bed.

Also found this handy chart for RSIC clips.
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post #11 of 80 Old 05-02-2013, 08:17 AM - Thread Starter
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Finally got ahold of the Soundproofing Company. I have to decide how much I am "in" to the soundproofing. The big killer is the shipping. Even with the good deal they were going to give me, I'm having a hard time squeezing it into the budget. So that is where I'm at right now. Then again if I could manage good sound isolation and reduction in my small budget that would be a major accomplishment.

4 Tubes of GG sealant (maybe I should get more)
3 CASES of GG
44 Budget Clips (for the ceiling)

And since people like pics, here's one thing I've been working on:






These are "to scale" as best as I could do using graph paper, a scanner, and then copious editing in MS paint. 2nd one shows color ideas I'm looking at.
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post #12 of 80 Old 05-02-2013, 09:40 AM
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Having read through the thread and noting the extreme budget constraints I would forget about the isolation clips given the flanking paths. Put the money into a good door which is the weakest link in most theaters.

Master of Minions, Acoustic Frontiers. We specialize in the design and creation of high performance listening rooms, home theaters and project studios for discerning audio/video enthusiasts.
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post #13 of 80 Old 05-02-2013, 10:04 AM - Thread Starter
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Having read through the thread and noting the extreme budget constraints I would forget about the isolation clips given the flanking paths. Put the money into a good door which is the weakest link in most theaters.

Thanks for your reply. The 2 doors have been ordered and paid for already. 3/4 of the walls that will not have clips/channel will be floating walls which may help a little bit. I think if I did the clip ceiling and used 1/4" shims all around I can seal that gap with acoustic sealant and get an improvement over NOT using clips and channel.

What part of the bay area? I was born in Milpetas and my Great Grandma lives in Redwood City. I also have relatives in Sunnyvale.
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post #14 of 80 Old 05-02-2013, 11:54 AM
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3/4 of the walls that will not have clips/channel will be floating walls which may help a little bit. I think if I did the clip ceiling and used 1/4" shims all around I can seal that gap with acoustic sealant and get an improvement over NOT using clips and channel.

If by floating, you mean the wall is fastened below to the slab, and to the above joist, and not directly attached to the exterior stud walls, then as I've read in one of Ted's post in another old thread, it is acoustically decoupled from the outside wall, and yes it will help against flanking. Better still is for that floating wall to be attached at the top with a clip, http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/soundproofing-products/soundproofing-clips/ib-3-ext-sound-isolation-clip/. Then add mass (DD) and damping (GG) to that wall.
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post #15 of 80 Old 05-02-2013, 08:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Talking to the wife right now about possibly expanding the budget so we can get a projector. Thinking the BenQ 1070W + some sort of screen, 92" or 106". I honestly know next to nothing about projectors but I would like to try one and I also want to try 3D. She's a little apprehensive, like she is about almost everything A/V related.

ETA: My neighbor offered to let me borrow his 720p crappy projector. He's not using it, so he said I can try it out to see what having a huge projected display would be like. Maybe it would get my wife enthused for something more.
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post #16 of 80 Old 05-03-2013, 08:05 AM
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Use this to gauge screen size and throw distance options for that projector. I also considered it, but it won't work in my room at a 20' throw distance.

http://www.projectorcentral.com/BenQ-W1070-projection-calculator-pro.htm

Also, BIG gave some advice on choosing a screen in another thread here. He said to consider playing with an image on the bare wall for a while before buying the screen. Tape borders,etc. You might find that you want a different size than you originally thought.
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post #17 of 80 Old 05-03-2013, 01:14 PM - Thread Starter
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I also just sold some stuff on Craigslist and I think I might be building a pair of these for side surrounds. Not part of the budget. smile.gif

I've been eyeballing these for months. smile.gif

CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), quality = 90

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post #18 of 80 Old 05-07-2013, 09:43 AM - Thread Starter
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Okay I need some advice. I just heard back from the Plumber and his estimate seems a little high to me. He's pretty busy so he has no reason to give me a great deal. I know he does quality work but this might blow the budget.

What he would do is cut the 3 water lines, put in elbows and extensions, and route them through the floor joists instead of underneath them.
He would also move the gas line by installing a couple more elbows. This would raise the gas line and "tuck it" right next to the HVAC duct.
Quote is $495, and I had $250 in the budget. I'm not sure how I can save $250 at this point to make up for it.

See pictures:

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post #19 of 80 Old 05-07-2013, 10:00 AM
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Okay I need some advice. I just heard back from the Plumber and his estimate seems a little high to me. He's pretty busy so he has no reason to give me a great deal. I know he does quality work but this might blow the budget.

What he would do is cut the 3 water lines, put in elbows and extensions, and route them through the floor joists instead of underneath them.
He would also move the gas line by installing a couple more elbows. This would raise the gas line and "tuck it" right next to the HVAC duct.
Quote is $495, and I had $250 in the budget. I'm not sure how I can save $250 at this point to make up for it.

See pictures:


now that he's told you how he'll do it, consider drilling the holes and running the lines yourself to save on the labor cost. This will leave him with just hooking up your new runs to the new elbows to the old lines. Looks like you've got blue pex pipe for the water, and a solid gas pipe... He'll likely snake in some of this for the gas: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Alpha-Flex-1-2-in-x-25-ft-CSST-Corrugated-Stainless-Steel-Tubing-11-00525/203073939#.UYkw8Eoerpo

and some of this for the water. http://www.homedepot.com/p/SharkBite-3-4-in-x-25-ft-PEX-Pipe-U870W25/202033030#.UYkxeUoerpo

disclaimer: I'm not a plumber, nor a gas fitter, nor an electrician, but I'll avoid paying someone to pull water, gas, and electrical runs wherever possible. I will however then pay them to hook it all up, test it, inspect, etc.
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post #20 of 80 Old 05-07-2013, 10:15 AM - Thread Starter
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Sorry, here are the other pics. There are 3 lines here in question. 1 is the main water line. Yes, it's idiotic that the main line is even here, but it is. So yeah, I would have to shut off the water to my house to tap into that. 2 is for the sprinkler system, it's the same diameter as the main line. The last one is for the exterior faucet on that side of the house. It's smaller. I am not certain but I think that means the main is 1" and the smaller one is 3/4".




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post #21 of 80 Old 05-07-2013, 10:49 AM
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lots of ductwork in your pics... check out post 6 and 8 of my build to see what I just did to my ductwork.
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post #22 of 80 Old 05-07-2013, 12:22 PM - Thread Starter
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lots of ductwork in your pics... check out post 6 and 8 of my build to see what I just did to my ductwork.

Checked it out and I think I am going to see if my local HVAC place carries Antivibe DL-10 HV for the sheetmetal ducts. I am also going to replace the rigid steel supply lines to the above room with the flexible insulated ducts per the Soundproofing company.
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post #23 of 80 Old 05-07-2013, 12:54 PM
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Checked it out and I think I am going to see if my local HVAC place carries Antivibe DL-10 HV for the sheetmetal ducts.

Mine didn't, and didn't have anything similar. Try contacting Blachford direct for pricing and/or ask if there's anywhere local to you, http://www.blachford.com/acoustical-contactus.php

Kinetics has a similar product, but was more expensive: http://kineticsnoise.com/industrial/kdc.html
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I am also going to replace the rigid steel supply lines to the above room with the flexible insulated ducts per the Soundproofing company.

Good call. I don't know about the cost, but I'm sure it's a superior solution to what I did for the supplies. Since I had this stuff for the main trunks, I just continued on and coated everything.
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post #24 of 80 Old 05-07-2013, 01:14 PM - Thread Starter
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Not expensive, here's an example:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Master-Flow-8-in-x-25-ft-Insulated-Flexible-Duct-R6-Silver-Jacket-F6IFD8X300/100396936

$30 for 25', and I think I'll only need 25' for my 2 ducts.

FWIW, the plumber wanted $500 to move the 3 pipes + the gas line. I think I may just do it myself, although I don't feel at all comfortable moving the main line, OR doing the gas line. He said he was only charging me $50 to move the gas line.

I'm not a plumber, but it seems like a huge ripoff. We are talking 3 hours tops and minimal parts cost. Should be more like $200-250 IMO. I just priced out if I used the sharkbite fittings and 25' of additional pex, I could do the whole thing under $100 but like I said, that main line makes me nervous, and I'm also uncertain as to what the effect would be of putting couplings and/or 90 degree elbows in terms of flow/pressure.

Any comments on the plumber's cost? He said the estimate is 2 licensed and certified plumbers for 3 hours.

ETA: I think I can do the plumbing stuff myself. It's the gas line that I am afraid of. Calling some plumbing companies to get estimates on that as well.
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post #25 of 80 Old 05-09-2013, 07:59 AM - Thread Starter
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Okay, so some progress and a question.

Got a quote from the first plumber which was $500. That blows my budget so I said no thanks.

Purchased plumbing parts to DIY the plumbing stuff for $125. Couldn't turn the water valve off (stupid tamper resistant pentabolt), so I stopped.

Found another plumber who told me he only charges $70/hour for labor and parts cost, which would be MUCH cheaper if he gets it done in 2 hours ish. So he's coming on Friday (tomorrow). Maybe I'll actually get my plumbing done ON BUDGET after all.

This morning at 530 AM I was downstairs moving boxes and I had some inspiration! I figured out a new way to reroute the plumbing to completely put it all inside the floor joists, by going around the air return in one of the ceiling joists. So that might work out well, will check with the plumber on Friday.

Now the question.

What would be more effective for soundproofing:
1) Entire room on clips and hat channel, Single or DD with NO green glue or
2) Entire room with DD + GG, ceiling also with clips and hat channel

It's a budget thing. I can't afford to do DD + GG + Clips + Channel for the entire room. Any opinions here?

I did find a supplier who sells 12' sections of 25 gauge hat channel for just under $3 each, so that seems like a great price.



Or perhaps we might even put the gas line INTO the joists, at this point it wouldn't be that much harder.

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post #26 of 80 Old 05-09-2013, 08:26 AM - Thread Starter
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now that he's told you how he'll do it, consider drilling the holes and running the lines yourself to save on the labor cost. This will leave him with just hooking up your new runs to the new elbows to the old lines. Looks like you've got blue pex pipe for the water, and a solid gas pipe... He'll likely snake in some of this for the gas: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Alpha-Flex-1-2-in-x-25-ft-CSST-Corrugated-Stainless-Steel-Tubing-11-00525/203073939#.UYkw8Eoerpo

Wow. One piece of that stuff would solve all of my problems. I will surely be looking into this. Why they didn't use this in the first place is beyond me. 25' would reach all the way from my gas meter to the furnace... and would not take long to install. Thanks! Sorry I missed this before. Heck I could run that myself... think I might be doing some work this evening. The more I do the less he will end up charging me for..


.

Wonder if this could be done?
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You don't need clips AND channel for the entire room. You only need clips AND channel for the ceiling IF you use the L-shaped clips to attach the top plate of the stud walls to the joists. You only need to run the L-shaped clips every 4' around each of the perimeter walls.

NONE of these rooms are perfect, but you want to make as good as it can be. Find the budget cuts in the things that you can add/upgrade later, like equipment, carpet, etc. And GG is cheaper by the bucket.

[EDIT]

And you can save a couple of bucks by making your stud spacing 24" on center instead of 16" oc.

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post #28 of 80 Old 05-09-2013, 09:07 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by tlogan6797 View Post

You don't need clips AND channel for the entire room. You only need clips AND channel for the ceiling IF you use the L-shaped clips to attach the top plate of the stud walls to the joists. You only need to run the L-shaped clips every 4' around each of the perimeter walls.

NONE of these rooms are perfect, but you want to make as good as it can be. Find the budget cuts in the things that you can add/upgrade later, like equipment, carpet, etc. And GG is cheaper by the bucket.

[EDIT]

And you can save a couple of bucks by making your stud spacing 24" on center instead of 16" oc.

Unfortunately 2/3 of the walls are already framed in. So that would leave "room within a room" construction, but for 12' wide, I don't know that it would make a lot of sense. 2 of the walls are exterior load-bearing walls. 3rd wall is already there next to the staircase. It's a floating wall in the sense that it is hanging from the steel beam and then indirectly attached to the floor with gigantic nails into pressure treated lumber.

I've gotten varied advice from different people WRT clips/channel. A lot of people say that clips/channel should only be used if it will be used everywhere. Others say doing the ceiling is better than not doing it (what the Soundproofing Company said).

I've noticed that my garage has good sound isolation from the rest of the house. It has 5/8" fire rated drywall and insulation in all the walls. It also has no HVAC intrusions in it. I'm hoping to achieve "better than garage" levels.

Wonder if I will be able to run my gas line in those 2x6s and then through the load-bearing double-stud and up into the floor joists?
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post #29 of 80 Old 05-09-2013, 09:55 AM
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My room is done in similar fashion to what Logan described with clip and channel on ceiling and rear wall. All other walls are not touching foundation and attached to ceiling joists via Ib3. Good way to save some money and hopefully achieve acceptable results.

Ideally all surfaces would have the same soundproofing measures and would therefore have similar impedance which as I understand it would could make things easier when it comes to the audio calibration of your room. But it is not the end of the world if this is not done compared to other more important matters for those on a budget.

I bet Nyals advice on the doors is worth looking at. The solid core is great and now you should look at the zero int seals. They would probably blow your budget but just so you understand that will be your weak point and should be a focus rather than equal impedance concerns.
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post #30 of 80 Old 05-09-2013, 10:43 AM
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Unfortunately 2/3 of the walls are already framed in. So that would leave "room within a room" construction

Not necessarily. Cut off the top plates about an inch down the studs and the put them back in (or a new ones depending on how chewed up they may be) and then attach it to the joists using the ib3 clips. You need the toplplates to be short of the joist to decouple anyway. You can snap a chalk line to get a level line and cut away!

Where there's a will, there's a way.

[edit]
Even better, cut the studs down 2.5" and put in double top plates so that you have more of a nailing surface.

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