Rough Out/Equipment Purchase Phase - Looking for some tips/guidance - AVS Forum
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Old 05-05-2013, 01:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Hi all,

Trying to get my arms around my HT project.

To give you a better idea, here are the specs:

Room Dimensions:
25x15, 25x11.6 usable (3.5 foot walkway on left-most part of room, seats and screen right adjusted in room); All block construction room.

Layout Notes:
-2 rows of 4 x theater seats
-Refrig, equipment rack, and popcorn machine will be built out on the back wall, taking up 24" depth
-From this 24" depth, a 30" aisle walkway before the back row of seats
-9.1 Dolby layout

We are starting rough out tomorrow after gutting the old theater last week. Acoustical considerations are being kept in mind -i.e. 2 x 5/8 green board, green glue.

To assist with the build out, I am hoping to get some help finalizing decisions on the speakers, screen size, screen, and associated wiring requirements.

Speakers:
In front of AT screen:
Front left high front right high
Front left low center front right low
In line with back row:
middle left middle right
In ceiling?:
surround left surround right

In the front, I am assuming the AT screen will keep us covered for the front, left, center speakers. I was planning on mounting cabinets to house the speakers on both left and right center. Thinking the surrounds will be in-ceiling, but am open to suggestions.

I am hesitant to move forward on the build out before knowing the dimensions of the speakers I will be using, however, and am spinning my wheels trying to make the decision for the best sound system.

B&W 802D are top contenders, but I have been unsuccessful locating any reports on mounting these acoustic panels so they are not visible.

With so many choices and the moving targets on other required other accessories (i.e. amps, rcvr, etc), any ideas to help me through this mind-numbing process? Not really any budget constraints but am value minded. Anticipated use of HT would be mostly Blu-ray new releases and streamed HD content.

Screen:
I am thinking the projector should be at 14 feet from a 120" 16:9 AT 3D screen. Seymour AV seems to be the preferred choice around here.

Any validation/thoughts on this? Could I go bigger or 2.35:1?

Wiring:
What is the recommended speaker wire? I was planning on no less than 12AWG, but am somewhat uncertain how many wire pairs are required/recommended. Any thoughts on brand also? Looking to pull the trigger tomorrow with a bulk wire order.

Any insight/comments would be appreciated. smile.gif
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Old 05-05-2013, 01:57 PM
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Are you using isolation clips in your rough in? Are you planning on isolating your HVAC for sound transmission purposes?

Order in wall rated speaker wire from Monoprice. Copper is dumb as dirt. It can't read the label and tell the difference between Monster and Monoprice.
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Old 05-05-2013, 02:10 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Are you using isolation clips in your rough in? Are you planning on isolating your HVAC for sound transmission purposes?

Order in wall rated speaker wire from Monoprice. Copper is dumb as dirt. It can't read the label and tell the difference between Monster and Monoprice.

Affirm on the isolation clips. The current HVAC is a mess and new feeds into the room are going in. I am waiting on a plan from the HVAC contractor this week - will report what they present but reduced acoustic impacts have been stressed.

Great info on the wires, will follow suit. smile.gif
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Old 05-05-2013, 02:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by d0tnet 
... I am hesitant to move forward on the build out before knowing the dimensions of the speakers I will be using, however, and am spinning my wheels trying to make the decision for the best sound system.
...
Any validation/thoughts on this? Could I go bigger or 2.35:1?
...
somewhat uncertain how many wire pairs are required/recommended.
...


If you are going with an AT screen, you should end up with plenty of height and width for any speakers. The issue to keep in mind is depth, the amount of room between the screen and the actual front wall of the theater.

Base your design on the room first, equipment second. Equipment changes are pretty common, but room changes are rare. Give yourself the space behind the screen, and then you'll have flexibility on what speakers you choose.

If you're mostly a movie watcher, I would consider 2.35:1. Size is based upon what your room can support, and your personal viewing preferences.

For how many pair to pull to each location, you will likely only need one.... however you can pull a second pair - or you can install a tube from your rack location to your speaker locations, and then add any new wires you need in the future.

Enjoy the ride!

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Old 05-05-2013, 05:35 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by warrenP View Post

If you are going with an AT screen, you should end up with plenty of height and width for any speakers. The issue to keep in mind is depth, the amount of room between the screen and the actual front wall of the theater.

Base your design on the room first, equipment second. Equipment changes are pretty common, but room changes are rare. Give yourself the space behind the screen, and then you'll have flexibility on what speakers you choose.

If you're mostly a movie watcher, I would consider 2.35:1. Size is based upon what your room can support, and your personal viewing preferences.

For how many pair to pull to each location, you will likely only need one.... however you can pull a second pair - or you can install a tube from your rack location to your speaker locations, and then add any new wires you need in the future.

Enjoy the ride!

Thanks for the info.

Plans have been changed after further research to include the 2.35:1 screen.

What is the best method to auto-mask 16:9 or 4:3 inputs to display on the 2.35:1 screen without black bars? I have seen anamorphic lens options but am leaning towards the dual 2.35:1 and 16:9 motorized screen option from Osprey.

In short, my three requirements for the screen/projector would be 3D, auto-masking or dual screens, and AT.

Can someone tell me what screen and projector to buy to meet these requirements? cool.gif I am not opposed to purchasing motorized anamorphic lens, if required.
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Old 05-05-2013, 06:17 PM
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Screen and auto-masking:

http://www.seymourscreenexcellence.com/CH.asp

I have the Carada Masquerade, but their screens are not AT, so the Seymour system would be a better choice for you...

Choice of using an a-lens or not will depend on your budget and preferences. With the zoom/lens presets now available, you can do without at the cost of some brightness and ~20 seconds of transition time. If 3D is important, you're going to want all the brightness you can get.

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Old 05-05-2013, 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by d0tnet View Post

Thanks for the info.

Plans have been changed after further research to include the 2.35:1 screen.

What is the best method to auto-mask 16:9 or 4:3 inputs to display on the 2.35:1 screen without black bars? I have seen anamorphic lens options but am leaning towards the dual 2.35:1 and 16:9 motorized screen option from Osprey.

In short, my three requirements for the screen/projector would be 3D, auto-masking or dual screens, and AT.

Can someone tell me what screen and projector to buy to meet these requirements? cool.gif I am not opposed to purchasing motorized anamorphic lens, if required.

Hard to answer these questions without:

- some kind of budget figure...
- how close is the first row of seats going to be?
- is the theater going to be blacked out?
- do you want to hit SMPTE / THX brightness targets?

If you are going for very good or better I'd abandon the speakers designed for free space (B&W 802s) and go with an in wall model. Theaters typically have what is called a screen or baffle wall. If you are partial to B&W they do an in wall version, I think it is called the CI800. However, if you look around you'll see most of the top theaters are using compression drivers on horns (Procella, JBL Synthesis).

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Old 05-05-2013, 10:25 PM
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Originally Posted by d0tnet View Post

...

Not really any budget constraints but am value minded. Anticipated use of HT would be mostly Blu-ray new releases and streamed HD content.

...

Any validation/thoughts on this? Could I go bigger or 2.35:1?

Re: value minded, the B&Ws are fine speakers, but I wouldn't consider them a "value" in terms of price/performance, and also aren't really designed for HT - take a look at Seaton Catalysts in that general price range, among others.

Definitely can go bigger at that seating distance, but a lot of it comes down to preference - when you go to the movies, do you sit closer to the front, back or middle rows?
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Old 05-06-2013, 03:28 AM
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Have you considered that the refrigerator is going to raise the noise floor of the room?
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Old 05-06-2013, 06:38 AM
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Room Dimensions:
25x15, 25x11.6 usable (3.5 foot walkway on left-most part of room, seats and screen right adjusted in room)

I would not right adjust the screen it will look odd, speaker side wall reflections will not be balanced, nor would I waste 3 1/2 ft for a walkway unless someone in your household is wheel chair bound, There are a few of side aisle theaters in my sig.

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Show us a sketch of your proposed space before lifting a hammer.
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Old 05-06-2013, 06:44 AM - Thread Starter
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Hard to answer these questions without:

- some kind of budget figure...
- how close is the first row of seats going to be?
- is the theater going to be blacked out?
- do you want to hit SMPTE / THX brightness targets?

If you are going for very good or better I'd abandon the speakers designed for free space (B&W 802s) and go with an in wall model. Theaters typically have what is called a screen or baffle wall. If you are partial to B&W they do an in wall version, I think it is called the CI800. However, if you look around you'll see most of the top theaters are using compression drivers on horns (Procella, JBL Synthesis).

-Speaker budget around 15-20k? Flexible here if needed.
-First row of seats will be 11-12 feet from screen.
-Theater room will be blacked out
-Thanks for the article link, good stuff. I would like to hit those targets, so looks like with the AT screen, will need a higher output projector.

Great info on the speakers, and thanks for the education. I am not partial to B&W. After review of the JBL Synthesis, it looks like the Synthesis 4 In-wall system would be an all-encompassing solution for 7.1 and I could just add front highs. I would probably pass on the SDP-40HD processor/controller and SDEC-3000 digital equalizer to go with a different option.
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Re: value minded, the B&Ws are fine speakers, but I wouldn't consider them a "value" in terms of price/performance, and also aren't really designed for HT - take a look at Seaton Catalysts in that general price range, among others.

Definitely can go bigger at that seating distance, but a lot of it comes down to preference - when you go to the movies, do you sit closer to the front, back or middle rows?

Thanks - looks like Seaton's site is down but perused the forum briefly to get some info. Looks like a good option as well.

Usually am sitting in the middle rows when going out to the movies.
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Have you considered that the refrigerator is going to raise the noise floor of the room?

Good point. Will need to research this further. smile.gif
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Old 05-06-2013, 07:16 AM
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Re: value minded, the B&Ws are fine speakers, but I wouldn't consider them a "value" in terms of price/performance, and also aren't really designed for HT ...

I second Brad on B&W not being the top choice for best value. I would look at Sunfire Cinema Ribbon Trio, Triad In-Wall Gold and even Episode In-Wall 900 series as those are more suited for this kind of dimensions and give a huge bang for the buck. And in-wall surrounds will be better than in-ceiling surrounds.

Wish you the best with your build.
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Old 05-06-2013, 08:50 AM - Thread Starter
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I would not right adjust the screen it will look odd, speaker side wall reflections will not be balanced, nor would I waste 3 1/2 ft for a walkway unless someone in your household is wheel chair bound, There are a few of side aisle theaters in my sig.

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Show us a sketch of your proposed space before lifting a hammer.

Here is a photo of the rough sketch we are working from:


Based on your input, I understand the concerns around the speaker balance. Do you think we can still get 2 rows of 4 chairs in with adequate walkway? Appreciate your insight. smile.gif
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Old 05-06-2013, 10:42 AM
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I wouldn't put your projector at 14 ft. Draw your seating and riser plan and you will see why, Not a good idea to put it where you are walking on the riser. Put it over the second row seats where no one will hit their head.
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Old 05-06-2013, 11:38 AM - Thread Starter
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I wouldn't put your projector at 14 ft. Draw your seating and riser plan and you will see why, Not a good idea to put it where you are walking on the riser. Put it over the second row seats where no one will hit their head.

Thanks for the tip. 14 feet is just over the back of the front row. 36 inch allocated for row one, 36 inch isle, 36 inch seats for row two. 7.5" riser runs from back wall to back of first row of seats. The projector should only be a hazard if you are standing on the front row seats but will keep that in mind.

Follow-up for you re: the speaker balance and aisle location. If we center the screen, offset the seats (and possibly use half moon layout), how would this impact the speaker balance anymore than not sitting perfectly center at a commercial theater? Playing devil's advocate here, just want to get a better understanding to make sure we make appropriate updates asap.
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Old 05-06-2013, 11:42 AM - Thread Starter
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On another note, can someone straighten me on the screen purchase? I was gung-ho and set to pull trigger on the Seymour TAM 2-L 120, but am being told that dual 16:9 and 2.35 screens will yield better results with no compromises or requirement for anamorphic lens, masking, etc.
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Old 05-06-2013, 12:04 PM
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Thanks for the tip. 14 feet is just over the back of the front row. 36 inch allocated for row one, 36 inch isle, 36 inch seats for row two. 7.5" riser runs from back wall to back of first row of seats. The projector should only be a hazard if you are standing on the front row seats but will keep that in mind.


The back of the first row should be at 11 1/2 - 12 ft. from the screen the back of the second at 18 -18 1/2 (assuming reclining seats) put the lens at 17 ft from the screen. But it would help to know your choice of projector and determine proper position. If you do a 16:9 to 2.35 zoom set up, the distance to the screen can be very specific with the Sony as the worst. In that case there is a about a 2 ft range to make it work, closer or farther and it won't happen.
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Old 05-06-2013, 12:11 PM
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On another note, can someone straighten me on the screen purchase? I was gung-ho and set to pull trigger on the Seymour TAM 2-L 120, but am being told that dual 16:9 and 2.35 screens will yield better results with no compromises or requirement for anamorphic lens, masking, etc.

I'm in the middle of a similar depth room and we are shooting for a 130 wide 2.35 screen.

the choice between two screens versus one screen with masking is more complex than I have time to get into. gotta run.
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Old 05-06-2013, 04:07 PM
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-First row of seats will be 11-12 feet from screen.
-Theater room will be blacked out
-Thanks for the article link, good stuff. I would like to hit those targets, so looks like with the AT screen, will need a higher output projector.

The standard Seymour material will be fine for your needs. You can sit closer with the 4K material but need more projector brightness to make up for it.

Just make sure you get a bright enough projector to meet brightness targets. Note you can't rely on published lumens figures. Either use the figures on projectorreviews.com for lumens output when properly calibrated or consult with a manufacturer or dealer. Note there aren't many 'budget' projectors that meet brightness targets when using big AT screens. Epson and BenQ come to mind. If you have more money SIM2 and Runco have actual calibrated lumens figures available if you know who to ask. If you have the funds then yes the Seymour masking screens are the way to go.

Re speakers / subs. I'd bank on 4 subs minimum (2 front, 2 back in corners or 25%/75% of width) for even bass across all seats.

Any thoughts on acoustic treatment?

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Old 05-06-2013, 07:31 PM - Thread Starter
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The standard Seymour material will be fine for your needs. You can sit closer with the 4K material but need more projector brightness to make up for it.

Just make sure you get a bright enough projector to meet brightness targets. Note you can't rely on published lumens figures. Either use the figures on projectorreviews.com for lumens output when properly calibrated or consult with a manufacturer or dealer. Note there aren't many 'budget' projectors that meet brightness targets when using big AT screens. Epson and BenQ come to mind. If you have more money SIM2 and Runco have actual calibrated lumens figures available if you know who to ask. If you have the funds then yes the Seymour masking screens are the way to go.

Re speakers / subs. I'd bank on 4 subs minimum (2 front, 2 back in corners or 25%/75% of width) for even bass across all seats.

Any thoughts on acoustic treatment?

The SIM2 Hero or the Sony VW1000ES were the main two contenders due to the feature specs.

On that note, I still am struggling through a screen decision. The automasking Seymour seemed like the best choice but can't get a grasp as to why everyone doesn't just use the Osprey Dual Tension screens and call it a day, having both 16:9 and 2.35:1 options at the touch of a button. What am I missing? I would like to order the screen and projector tomorrow so I don't get too far behind. smile.gif

Acoustic treatment is via insulation clips and double drywall with green glue. Additional bass traps and insulation will be used as well. Lastly, planning on acoustic panels along the side walls where needed.
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Old 05-06-2013, 07:44 PM
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A few thoughts d0tnet, some of which are covered above and reiterated here based on your questions throughout this thread:
  • Screen size - the only way to get the best of both 2.35 and 1.78 worlds is to get a screen with 4-way masking. Going with a 2.35:1 screen gets you a bigger picture for movies but a smaller 1.78:1 image than the projector could handle since you are dealing with a constant image height. So the preference really boils down to your lifestyle and what you hope to get out of the theater. For me, I will be about 75% TV and 1.78 content and 25% movies but I am still going with a 2.35:1 screen because I feel the HD-sized image is still acceptably large even though it could be much larger. There is also the issue of cost in that the larger screen will naturally cost more, but you really need a lens to maximize the 2.35:1 video experience. Projectors with digital zoom will get you by quite well, but zooming the 810 lines present on the letterboxed material is a 25% reduction in resolution and a 30% reduction in brightness since all of the pixels on the light panel (DLP, LCOS, etc.) are not being used. So that cost could come later to maximize your system's performance.
  • Center the screen. With 15' width it looks like you should go with 3 seats wide in both rows. There's just not a lot you can do to maximize the acoustic experience for someone in a fourth chair shoved against a wall when one ear is less than 2 feet from acoustic panels, reflection points, etc. The distances between speakers is also off. Optimize the room to the center and try to make the acoustic sweet spot as large as possible. If you have a large family or truly think you'll be maximizing the theater's capacity on a daily basis then by all means add the extra seating. If not, I'd skip installing seats next to the wall.
  • Speakers - Having had a full B&W Nautilus system with the original Nautilus 802s Series 1 with an HTM1 center and Nautilus 803s for surrounds I can tell you that the system had a great sound for music and movies....but I was only 11 feet away from the TV screen in a family room system. Those speakers are not optimized for a dedicated theater, especially behind a screen. The dispersion pattern of the tweeter is only the first of a long list of concerns. Follow the advice above and look at Seatons, JBLs, Procella or Klipsch as purpose-built theater speakers sufficient to fill that size room.
  • I hate the idea of putting a noisy bar fridge in the room. And I am not a big fan of the popcorn popper in the room either with all of the oily steam bellowing out of the kettle and impregnating all soft fabrics with the smell. If at all possible, move the snack station outside of the room.
  • HVAC - do you have the opportunity to move this thing away from the theater at all or is its position fixed? Otherwise you have a bit of work cut out for you to soundproof that thing from the main theater.
  • Take BIG's advice on projector throw distance and screen size....I'd go to 130" width 2.35:1 screen and target a 16.0' to 17.5' throw distance. The Seymour Center Stage XD material is great and has a 1.16 gain. The Enlightor 4K material has a 0.9 gain, so it will be more difficult to light with a budget projector. At viewing distances as close as 10' you cannot see the perforations on the XD material, fyi.

All of us here on the Forum can certainly help and guide you through the process with our collective knowledge, but I would highly recommend you step back for a minute, take a breath and hire out the Erskine Group utilizing their Pro Theater Layout Service. The cost starts at $600 for a full room layout including the acoustic analysis and will be the best $600 or so dollars you ever spent. They'll work within your budget and make suggestions where appropriate. Warren P. has it exactly right when he says to get the room right first - period. To that end, the Erskine Group will help you do that. Here is their contact information page: http://www.erskine-group.com/contact.php
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Old 05-06-2013, 08:19 PM
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If 8 seats is a must have, budget 4 seats in 126 inches or less. That leaves 54 inches for aisles, I would allocate 28 inches on the main walkway side and 22 inches on the far side.

Consider making the center two in each row a loveseat configuration. Fusion Tributes do that in 120 inches.
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Old 05-06-2013, 08:25 PM
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I have the sony1000 mated with a 13' wide 2.35 Stewart microperf 1.5 gain screen and have just enough brightness to enjoy 2D while 3D is a little dim.

Keep in mind the screens your looking at have no gain to them which will produce a better picture but won't be easy to light up.

I don't see any need for a masking system with the Sony (or many other newer pjs) as the black bars are "pretty black" compared to the pjs of the past.

Just my 2cents.

Good luck!
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Old 05-06-2013, 11:47 PM - Thread Starter
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A few thoughts d0tnet, some of which are covered above and reiterated here based on your questions throughout this thread:
  • Screen size - the only way to get the best of both 2.35 and 1.78 worlds is to get a screen with 4-way masking. Going with a 2.35:1 screen gets you a bigger picture for movies but a smaller 1.78:1 image than the projector could handle since you are dealing with a constant image height. So the preference really boils down to your lifestyle and what you hope to get out of the theater. For me, I will be about 75% TV and 1.78 content and 25% movies but I am still going with a 2.35:1 screen because I feel the HD-sized image is still acceptably large even though it could be much larger. There is also the issue of cost in that the larger screen will naturally cost more, but you really need a lens to maximize the 2.35:1 video experience. Projectors with digital zoom will get you by quite well, but zooming the 810 lines present on the letterboxed material is a 25% reduction in resolution and a 30% reduction in brightness since all of the pixels on the light panel (DLP, LCOS, etc.) are not being used. So that cost could come later to maximize your system's performance.
  • Center the screen. With 15' width it looks like you should go with 3 seats wide in both rows. There's just not a lot you can do to maximize the acoustic experience for someone in a fourth chair shoved against a wall when one ear is less than 2 feet from acoustic panels, reflection points, etc. The distances between speakers is also off. Optimize the room to the center and try to make the acoustic sweet spot as large as possible. If you have a large family or truly think you'll be maximizing the theater's capacity on a daily basis then by all means add the extra seating. If not, I'd skip installing seats next to the wall.
  • Speakers - Having had a full B&W Nautilus system with the original Nautilus 802s Series 1 with an HTM1 center and Nautilus 803s for surrounds I can tell you that the system had a great sound for music and movies....but I was only 11 feet away from the TV screen in a family room system. Those speakers are not optimized for a dedicated theater, especially behind a screen. The dispersion pattern of the tweeter is only the first of a long list of concerns. Follow the advice above and look at Seatons, JBLs, Procella or Klipsch as purpose-built theater speakers sufficient to fill that size room.
  • I hate the idea of putting a noisy bar fridge in the room. And I am not a big fan of the popcorn popper in the room either with all of the oily steam bellowing out of the kettle and impregnating all soft fabrics with the smell. If at all possible, move the snack station outside of the room.
  • HVAC - do you have the opportunity to move this thing away from the theater at all or is its position fixed? Otherwise you have a bit of work cut out for you to soundproof that thing from the main theater.
  • Take BIG's advice on projector throw distance and screen size....I'd go to 130" width 2.35:1 screen and target a 16.0' to 17.5' throw distance. The Seymour Center Stage XD material is great and has a 1.16 gain. The Enlightor 4K material has a 0.9 gain, so it will be more difficult to light with a budget projector. At viewing distances as close as 10' you cannot see the perforations on the XD material, fyi.

All of us here on the Forum can certainly help and guide you through the process with our collective knowledge, but I would highly recommend you step back for a minute, take a breath and hire out the Erskine Group utilizing their Pro Theater Layout Service. The cost starts at $600 for a full room layout including the acoustic analysis and will be the best $600 or so dollars you ever spent. They'll work within your budget and make suggestions where appropriate. Warren P. has it exactly right when he says to get the room right first - period. To that end, the Erskine Group will help you do that. Here is their contact information page: http://www.erskine-group.com/contact.php

Great tips and feedback across the board, appreciate it! The fridge and popcorn machine may get scrapped. Will take a look at the pro theater layout service and agree with you and Warren P.'s comments.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

If 8 seats is a must have, budget 4 seats in 126 inches or less. That leaves 54 inches for aisles, I would allocate 28 inches on the main walkway side and 22 inches on the far side.

Consider making the center two in each row a loveseat configuration. Fusion Tributes do that in 120 inches.

Cool, good thought on the loveseat and the fusion tributes look excellent for the task. I also like the split on the aisles, will incorporate those numbers into the layout. biggrin.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by audiovideoholic View Post

I have the sony1000 mated with a 13' wide 2.35 Stewart microperf 1.5 gain screen and have just enough brightness to enjoy 2D while 3D is a little dim.

Keep in mind the screens your looking at have no gain to them which will produce a better picture but won't be easy to light up.

I don't see any need for a masking system with the Sony (or many other newer pjs) as the black bars are "pretty black" compared to the pjs of the past.

Just my 2cents.

Good luck!
Good data point here. After looking at the Stewart product lineup, I am pretty set on 4-way masking constant area solution for my screen, specifically the DC-100 or DC2.0. Did you consider this choice? I couldn't find too much detail on the screen specs (i.e. gain, etc), but will try to get in touch with the Stewart sales folks tomorrow to get a quote for an AT option of the DC. It is interesting that they recommend a 16:9 native projector for this setup, though.

Big thanks for the continued support!
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Old 05-07-2013, 04:34 AM
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Right now every light chip I am aware of in the consumer market is 16:9 native.
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Old 05-07-2013, 05:28 AM
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The fridge and popcorn should be moved outside the theater, if you want them. The reasoning behind this is:

The fridge will raise the noise floor of the room, and to hear the quiet portions of a movie,
you will need to raise the volume level. Then a noisy part of the soundtrack arrives and it's too loud. And you'll be reaching for the remote again.

The oils from a popcorn machine become air bourne and over time, can coat the screen. Some screens are quite fragile with respects to cleaning.
And the pre-mentioned fabrics and smell issue.
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Old 05-07-2013, 10:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by d0tnet View Post

The SIM2 Hero or the Sony VW1000ES were the main two contenders due to the feature specs.

On that note, I still am struggling through a screen decision. The automasking Seymour seemed like the best choice but can't get a grasp as to why everyone doesn't just use the Osprey Dual Tension screens and call it a day, having both 16:9 and 2.35:1 options at the touch of a button. What am I missing? I would like to order the screen and projector tomorrow so I don't get too far behind. smile.gif

Acoustic treatment is via insulation clips and double drywall with green glue. Additional bass traps and insulation will be used as well. Lastly, planning on acoustic panels along the side walls where needed.

I don't believe the Osprey is available with AT material?

What's a SIM2 Hero?

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Old 05-07-2013, 10:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Right now every light chip I am aware of in the consumer market is 16:9 native.

There are a couple of projectors that advertise native 2.35:1 - Projection Design and DP spring to mind

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Old 05-07-2013, 11:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post


All of us here on the Forum can certainly help and guide you through the process with our collective knowledge, but I would highly recommend you step back for a minute, take a breath and hire out the Erskine Group utilizing their Pro Theater Layout Service. The cost starts at $600 for a full room layout including the acoustic analysis and will be the best $600 or so dollars you ever spent. They'll work within your budget and make suggestions where appropriate. Warren P. has it exactly right when he says to get the room right first - period. To that end, the Erskine Group will help you do that. Here is their contact information page: http://www.erskine-group.com/contact.php

+1. The level of budget you are talking about it will pay big dividends to bring in professionals to help with room layout, seat / speaker / sub placement, acoustic design and calibration.

Acoustic Frontiers: design and creation of high performance listening rooms, home theaters and project studios for discerning audio/video enthusiasts.
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Old 05-09-2013, 01:01 AM
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I think my screen was too big for the automated system. I know Mike Garrett, my salesman here at avs, was trying to get me one.
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