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post #31 of 36 Old 05-12-2013, 06:09 AM - Thread Starter
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trying to find a template for a duct for a drawing mock up - can someone help?

looks like maybe 3.25" tall by 10" wide is as small as they come? can someone provide a link of a better option?

http://www.homedepot.com/Heating-Venting-Cooling-HVAC-Parts-Accessories-Ducting-Venting-In-Wall-Duct-System-Stack-Ducts/h_d1/N-5yc1vZc5hn/h_d2/Navigation?catalogId=10053&Nu=P_PARENT_ID&langId=-1&storeId=10051&currentPLP=true&omni=c_Stack%20Ducts&searchNav=true
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post #32 of 36 Old 05-12-2013, 10:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

I'm just not there with $6000 to $10000 on power filtration alone. That recommendation goes straight to the Ferrari and skips over the Fords and Mercedes along the way. ATI, Behringer and the Lab Gruppen clone amps are most certainly value amps when you compare them up against Levinson, Theta, BAT, QSC and authentic Lab Gruppen gear. All totaled in the used market these amps are right around $6500, which is a good value for that much "stuff". You would have to spend double or triple the cost of the ATIs to get 300wpc in the truly high-end gear, so that's why I say it is a real value despite its price.

As above, I am not wanting to go straight to the Ferrari of power solutions for the ultimate in performance right off the bat. Something of more modest performance. Protecting the equipment from surges/spikes/overvoltages/undervoltages would be my initial concern, following by filtration and other technologies used to lower the noise floor from 2% to 0%, for example. The reason I am asking this is because it will take every spare $$ just to get the system complete at this point, without blowing the budget on the ultimate in power protection, filtration and isolation.

I have a segregation already in that my control system, digital phone system, DirecTV DVRs, projector bulb, Synology NAS and all other networking components will be on my APC S20 that has a battery back-up. A legacy piece of equipment I have - a Monster Power Signature HTPS 7000 would function as protection for all other source gear, the preamp, receivers for other zones, matrix switchers, all Niles amplifiers for the whole-house system, and the powerbridge from three 60-65" flat panels....what you call the "non-performance" stuff. The last piece of the puzzle is what to do with all the amps beyond giving them the additional dedicated lines specified by the manufacturer without going straight to a $6000-$10000 solution.

The inbetween solution is to have a dedicated sub panel as close as you can get it to your room with minimum circuit lengths.

Following on from that there are three options:
- Use a basic whole house surge protector - the type designed to be directly connected at a panel, plenty of options, around $200
- Use a step up whole house surge protector - one that includes sine wave tracking technology like the Environmental Potentials EP-2050, $700
- Use a whole room power conditioner like the SurgeX XN120 which has four individual 15A circuits with series mode surge protection and a noise filter, $1700

Master of Minions, Acoustic Frontiers. We specialize in the design and creation of high performance listening rooms, home theaters and project studios for discerning audio/video enthusiasts.
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post #33 of 36 Old 05-12-2013, 05:06 PM
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I did the 240 V 60 A subpanel right next to the rack in my last theater, and it worked flawlessly. I used an APC S20 UPS/surge protector on all the low-level equipment, and fed the amplifiers from a separate 20 A circuit. The projector was also fed from the APC UPS.

This next time around, I plan to use an Exact Power rack-mount isolation transformer/power distribution unit.
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post #34 of 36 Old 05-13-2013, 10:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRock3x8 View Post

trying to find a template for a duct for a drawing mock up - can someone help?

I've never seen this done before. Why not just use a cardboard cut out?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nyal Mellor View Post

The inbetween solution is to have a dedicated sub panel as close as you can get it to your room with minimum circuit lengths.

Following on from that there are three options:
- Use a basic whole house surge protector - the type designed to be directly connected at a panel, plenty of options, around $200
- Use a step up whole house surge protector - one that includes sine wave tracking technology like the Environmental Potentials EP-2050, $700
- Use a whole room power conditioner like the SurgeX XN120 which has four individual 15A circuits with series mode surge protection and a noise filter, $1700

Already complete. I put in a high-quality Cutler Hammer 100 amp sub panel that is located about 6 feet away which will yield runs of under 10 feet for all dedicated lines to the rack once properly routed through the rough framing. I was looking at this for protection: http://www.sourceresearch.com/store1/quickstore.cfm?ProductID=241051581&do=detail. However, now that I have been introduced to the Environmental Potentials device, it's probably worth the added expense. Either way, I will also set myself up for a 240v circuit in the rack. It's not possible at this point to have a new line run from my main 200 amp service for a truly dedicated isolation transformer.
Quote:
Originally Posted by LeBon View Post

I did the 240 V 60 A subpanel right next to the rack in my last theater, and it worked flawlessly. I used an APC S20 UPS/surge protector on all the low-level equipment, and fed the amplifiers from a separate 20 A circuit. The projector was also fed from the APC UPS.

This next time around, I plan to use an Exact Power rack-mount isolation transformer/power distribution unit.

As described above, I am about 6 feet from the rack with my subpanel as the crow flies, so under 10 feet for each dedicated line comes from the sub panel. That Exact Power is another serious piece of gear!
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post #35 of 36 Old 05-15-2013, 01:32 PM
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Tim, which HDMI baluns are you using? Do you have to run 2 Cat6 cables to wherever you plan on having the baluns?
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post #36 of 36 Old 05-15-2013, 01:50 PM
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I currently have this from Atlona, which takes two Cat5 wires per baluns to function: http://www.atlona.com/Atlona-8x8-2-PRO-HDMI-Matrix-Switch-with-CAT5-6-and-Local-HDMI-Outputs-with-3D-Support.html. I am moving to this from SnapAV: http://www.snapav.com/p-1074-b-300-hdmatrix-8x8.aspx with these baluns: http://www.snapav.com/p-1302-b-320-hdmatrix-rcv-w.aspx which require only one shielded Cat6 wire to function. I'll be running dual shielded Cat6 wires to each display location in my home, including the theater projector.

Many of the super high-end home theaters use this balun from Audiocontrol: http://www.audiocontrol.com/59494/704289/HDMI-Over-Cat--5--6/BVHD-20.html to run from the preamp to the projector. In this way the HDMI cable does not have to be updated and any updates to the HDMI standard or performance requires only a swap-out of the baluns to run over the same twisted pair wiring. This baluns unit uses two cat5 or Cat6(preferred) wires. Using shielded wire is optional with these devices, but encouraged. As a footnote, you must also get the shielded RJ45 jacks when you are terminating the wire. You can use connectors like this: http://www.showmecables.com/product/Cat6a-Shielded-Connector.aspx?utm_source=google&utm_medium=merchant&utm_campaign=568&gclid=COaXxoT-mLcCFa5j7AodXG4ALw, but NOT the "EZ" connectors like this with the pass-through option: http://www.platinumtools.com/products/100020.php
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