Coffin Family Theater 2.0 - Now Complete!!! - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 178 Old 05-11-2013, 01:57 PM - Thread Starter
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So the journey is finally at a close.

Basement is now 100% complete, and we have been enjoying the products of my labors for a couple weeks now.

The entire project took 7 months to complete, but that encompasses 100% of the usable space in the basement, from the maintenance room to the theater and everything in between.

The entire project was a solo affair, and the only professional work that was done was the mudding on the drywall.

Everything else you see here was completed by my 2 hands only. Plumbing, electrical, upholstery, you name it.

I have learned so very much in the last year from planning and design to finished wood working; it has been a life changing experience and an amazing ride.

I am a little sad to see it completed as it has been a pretty great experience, but at the same time I am so enjoying my weekends off.

I offer my thanks to all of you who helped me along the way with advice.

Also a huge thanks goes out to Landshark1, if it was not for his amazing theater I am not sure what I would have ended up with, you were a total inspiration for my room.

I had a lot of the A/V equipment from earlier theaters, but total cost for this build was just over $22000.

Our budget was $20000 and I am happy we were as close as we were with all the last minute changes we had.

If anyone is interested in more pricing details, let me know and I can post some breakdowns, or if you are looking for information on anything you see here, or how it was done, I will be happy to help.

Enjoy!



Before:

l5ke.jpg

After:

(first 3 pics by my photographer friend and a MUCH better camera)

Coffin_Theater.jpg

Coffin_Theater_2.jpg

Coffin_Theater_4.jpg

DSC01623.jpg

P5030021.jpg

P5030036.jpg

P5030029_Large.jpg

P5030032_Large.jpg

P5030035_Large.jpg





Room size:
21' x 15' x 7'8” (I wish we had of got the 9’, life would have been much easier!)

Riser:
8” for both the front and back. 12’ wide 12’ deep
2 specialized panels under the main 2 chairs to hold a pair of Buttkicker LFE
Rope lighting recessed under the nosing of the riser (work in progress as the carpet is too thick for it to be of any use)
Pop-up in the floor that has 4x USB, 2x Lan and 3x outlets

Color:
Main panels:
GOM Anchorage Birch
GOM Anchorage Cumin

Trim:
GOM Anchorage Coffee Bean

Ceiling:
Local fabic store purchase, nothing special, dark brown to march Coffee Bean trim, similar to rayon material.

Screen Wall:
Local fabric store purchase, midnight black, similar to ceiling fabric.



Acoustic Treatment:
Front wall - None, not enough space to treat
Side walls - Lincoustic at first reflection point, based on measurements done with this app Link
Back wall - Auralex Q'Fusor diffusor panels
Ceiling - Lincoustic at first reflection point and above main seating area
Corners - 24”x48”x2" OC703 cut down to ¼ triangles. Then the front covered with 24”x24”x2” ATS Wedge foam.
All walls and ceiling stuffed with R16 insulation
Riser tightly packed with R16 insulation.

Audio:
11.3 Setup
Definitive Technology:
2x BP2000TL mains (using the 15” powered subs as .2 and .3)
CLR3000 center
4x BPX/P surrounds
2x SM55 height channels
1x SVS PB Ultra
Matantz 8801
Rotel RMB 1095 - For wides, height and center
Rotel RMB 1095 - For surrounds rears
Rotel RMD 1090 - For mains
Yamaha P7000 - for dual buttkickers LFEs
Velodyne SMS-1 for bass EQ

Video:
Panasonic PT-AE8000U
Da-Lite 159” Permwall Pearlescent 2.4 gain screen - 16:9

Automation:

Insteon ISY994I controller
Insteon 2413S PLM
3x Insteon dimmer switches for theater lighting
1x Insteon switch for cooling exhaust fan in AV room
2x Insteon Inline modules for amp control
1x Insteon dimming outlet for rope light control
Ipad 2.0 used exclusively for iRule / Insteon control

Equipment Lists:
Oppo 103
Playstation 4
Playstation 3
WiiU
Xbox 360
Xbox 1
Custom build gaming PC (also used for HTPC)
IBM x336 server for media streaming
Two SGI 3U Omnistor SE3016 Media Storage - 16 bay enclosures (currently hosting 20tb)
Dell PowerVault LTO3 tape library for backup
Monster Power HT5000 Power center
APC 1500 UPS
Global Cache GC-100
3x Global Cache IP2SL
NuTone Qt300 exhaust fan (300cfm fan for AV room cooling)

Seats:
Laz-y-boy Grayson chair with Power VR+ for lumbar and neck control.
Laz-y-boy Grayson standard chair
Very old couch from The Brick, it is my wife’s favorite couch to nap on, so it stays, happy wife, happy life.

Theater Lobby:

39” Samsung TV for movie poster display (hooked to old dell desktop running a screensaver)
Custom made signage from a provider on Ebay

Concession:
Gold Medal 2195 Butter Dispenser
Benchmark Street Vendor Antique Popcorn Maker
Bunn CDS-2 Slurpee maker
Danby mini fridge
Vintage Pepsi letterboard
Vintage drive in theater signs
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post #2 of 178 Old 05-11-2013, 03:39 PM - Thread Starter
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~~~ Original Post Below ~~~



It has begun!!!!

In a scant 5 months we will be taking possession of our brand new home, and the theater planning is now in full swing.

I have the base plans done now for the room, still need to make some adjustments as some sizing has changed a bit now.

Overall I will have a 15 x 20 x 8 room, no windows and a archway into the room. No doors.

Been trolling the forums here to check you guys out and have settle on a design very similar to Gary (Landshark1)

Love the look of his set up and so does my wife. So it is full steam ahead.

Planning on having the gear in a totally separate room and only accessible in the media closet, not in the theater at all.

Video game consoles I have 2 thoughts on.

Either in a drawer under the seating area, or in a cut out in the back of the theater. (Still need concept drawings for this)






Here is the full basement:

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Here is the first and second color choices for the wall panels:

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Image Hosted by ImageShack.us


Screen wall:

Image Hosted by ImageShack.us


Looking at going REAL big, 159". Heads at the first row will be about 14 - 15' back. Just about perfect based on THX specs, and we do like things pretty large, have a 120" and we sit at the 10' - 11' mark now so this should not be an overpowering upgrade.



Above and beyond my equipment list in my sig I am adding 2x Def Tech Sm55's for Height speakers and 2x Def Tech Sm65's for Wides. they are all denoted by the black dots in the main picture. Think I got all the angles right.

Will also be adding another RMB-1095 to power them, or possibly another amp in and around the same power. Maybe a RMB-1075, Emotive XPA-5 or Marantz 7055. Budget is about $1k for the new amp, but cheaper is better and I have no problem with used.

Lastly adding a Oppo-103 for movie playback.

Things not listed in the sig are the gaming systems - PS3, Xbox 360 and WiiU, as well as a dedicated high end gaming rig that doubles as our HTPC.

Currently using iRule for control of the theater, and will be adding Insteon throughout the home for automation of lights and environmental controls.

Also tossing around a couple other ideas for more bass. Have a PB13 Ultra now, may add a second if I can find one used for a good price.

Also toying with the idea of transducers for the main 2 seats. Looking into the Earthquake series. Have a pretty original idea for incorporating it that I have yet to sketch up and will post once done.

Would love any feedback you guys can provide.

Here is the work in progress, long way to go still, but pretty much from the back wall to 3ft past the farthest pole will be the theater.

Window in the far back right is in the media closet.

206365
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post #3 of 178 Old 05-19-2013, 02:18 PM - Thread Starter
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So we have settled on the color scheme.



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We brought in some swatches from http://www.fabricmatestore.com and I was extremely disappointed in the GOM FR701 product line. The stuff seems like a potato sack. The texture is horrible.

We decided on the Anchorage line instead. Super smooth, almost looks silk like.

The colors picked are as follows:

GOM - Anchorage - Birch
GOM - Anchorage - Cumin
GOM - Anchorage - Coffee Bean

For the screen wall I have little choice but to go with the FR701 line for Black as there is none in Anchorage.


Also decided to pull the trigger on a Earthquake Q10B transducer for the front row of seating, still looking for a good deal on one, but grabbed a fantastic deal on the amp I will run it with.

Found a Yamaha P7000S on ebay in mint condition for $400 only. With a crossover down to 20hz I think this thing is gonna kick ass.

Still trying to find a good deal on the other 5 channel amp we need as well, still no dice.


As for the house, little to no progress last week, they got the concrete for in for the garage, and that is it.... Slow going...

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post #4 of 178 Old 05-20-2013, 07:48 AM
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post #5 of 178 Old 05-24-2013, 08:43 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by landshark1 View Post

Subscribed.

I'm eager to see your finished color scheme and how to do the panels. BTW, I like Coffee Bean GOM too, but it looks almost like black in my dimmed room.

Thinking of doing the panels similar to yours, except 2 sizes instead of 3. My brain is very symmetrical, the 3 tiers would drive me clear to out for my mind. lol

So thinking the the Cumin would be 1.5" and the Birch 1" Should add a nice shadow to the lighter color. In theory at least.

I am ok with the Coffee Bean looking darker if needed, planning on painting the ceiling black anyway, just our whole house color scheme has a lot of earth tones, hopefully it will show a bit in the room still though.

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post #6 of 178 Old 05-24-2013, 08:48 PM - Thread Starter
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Started messing with the target render for the basement, slow goign as I am learning to 3d design as I go, but this has given me a lot better idea of the flow of the basement and how it will be.


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post #7 of 178 Old 05-24-2013, 08:50 PM
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You might consider going with the 701 for panels in front of your speakers. I've seen a post in the past where one of the members here measured the 701 and the anchorage and noted a 6 db increase in attenuation at higher frequencies when using the anchorage fabric. You are right, though. The Anchorage fabric looks much nicer, and the colors seem more saturated and vibrant.

Dude, are you made of leprechauns? Cause that was awesome!

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post #8 of 178 Old 05-29-2013, 08:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post

You might consider going with the 701 for panels in front of your speakers. I've seen a post in the past where one of the members here measured the 701 and the anchorage and noted a 6 db increase in attenuation at higher frequencies when using the anchorage fabric. You are right, though. The Anchorage fabric looks much nicer, and the colors seem more saturated and vibrant.

Thanks for the advice on that one.

I was considering the 701 for the front just because it comes in black vs the darkest color for the Anchorage is Coffee Bean.

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post #9 of 178 Old 05-29-2013, 08:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Finally nailed down the transducers I am going with.

After hundreds of posts I have decided on the Buttkickers over the Earthquake.

Grabbed one thus far from Ebay for an absolute steal, $150 for a brand new / sealed box for the Butt Kicker LFE.

Just need to snag one more for the front seats.

As we rarely entertain I can't see a valuable reason to add one for the rear seating. In all honesty they are mostly for me and my late night gaming sessions.

Hard to crank the bass when my wife is sleeping on the couch in the theater. So fingers crossed this gives me that Oomph I have been wanting at low sound levels.

On another note I was toying with the idea of adding a second SVS PB13 Ultra to the room, had a thread here about it, and finally decided I would straight up contact SVS about it.

Well I must say, they are one of the best companies I have ever dealt with.

I gave them all the specs, what I have now and what the new theater will be, and they told me to stick with the single Ultra, it would be more than enough power for my room.

Rare in this day and age you find a salesman NOT pushing you on a product, my hats off to Darren McCormick, not only did he offer great advice, but he got in touch on a weekend...

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post #10 of 178 Old 05-29-2013, 08:45 PM - Thread Starter
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One last thing to add for today.

I need to make sure I am calculating this right.

I plan to go BIG for the screen, looking at 159" 16:9.

Here are the cals from projector central:

Image Hosted by ImageShack.us


To keep in the proper LF range I need a screen with about a 1.5 gain, can't see this being too big an issue as the main seating is going to be withing the 20 degree range.

Projector will be in the media closet at the back of the theater, pretty much dead center of the screen if I can swing it.

So does 14FL seem decent? I know I will be losing that in time with bulb age obviously.

The only way I can see to boost it though is either move the projector into the theater which I am really not wanting to do, or to get an even higher gain screen.

We have a Da-lite Perm-wall now and I love it, so my plan was to stick with them and grab the Pearlescene finish which gives a 1.5 gain.

Will this be enough light?

Also need to take into consideration that we do watch 3d movies on occasion as well.

Thoughts?

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post #11 of 178 Old 05-29-2013, 10:24 PM
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Can't wait to see the finished product.. looks like it will be top notch.
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post #12 of 178 Old 05-30-2013, 07:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cofn42 View Post

Thanks for the advice on that one.

I was considering the 701 for the front just because it comes in black vs the darkest color for the Anchorage is Coffee Bean.

Anchorage comes in Onyx (2016) which is black if that's any help.

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post #13 of 178 Old 05-30-2013, 12:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post

Anchorage comes in Onyx (2016) which is black if that's any help.

Wow, totally missed that!

So going back to your previous comment, you mentioned the Anchorage had a 6db higher attenuation, not sure how to interpret that.

Does that mean it absorbs 6 more db than the 701? or that it actually increases the reflection of high frequencies by 6db?

Thanks!

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I don't know how the testing is done, but I always ASSUMED that it was a matter of measuring a speaker, and then putting the cloth in front of it and measuring again. For the Anchorage, it would mean that the sound levels are 6 db down from the case without the fabric. This is not insignificant, as a drop of 3 db means the sound levels are cut by half. For 6 db, levels would be 1/4 of what they began at.

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post #15 of 178 Old 05-30-2013, 03:53 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post

I don't know how the testing is done, but I always ASSUMED that it was a matter of measuring a speaker, and then putting the cloth in front of it and measuring again. For the Anchorage, it would mean that the sound levels are 6 db down from the case without the fabric. This is not insignificant, as a drop of 3 db means the sound levels are cut by half. For 6 db, levels would be 1/4 of what they began at.

Hmmmm, well I may have no choice then but to go with the 701 on the screen wall as my towers are bipoles. Would hate to take that huge hit on the sound stage in the front of the room, kinda defeats the purpose of having my bipoles.

But this will sure make a significant difference on the side walls at the reflection points.

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post #16 of 178 Old 05-31-2013, 09:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NYGIANTSFAN23 View Post

Can't wait to see the finished product.. looks like it will be top notch.

Thanks man, I can't wait to get started, lol.

So much drawing and research, I just want to start doing something, only 120 more days until possession smile.gif

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post #17 of 178 Old 06-02-2013, 11:19 AM
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Huge screen !!

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"Too much is almost enough. Anything in life worth doing is worth overdoing. Moderation is for cowards."
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post #18 of 178 Old 06-02-2013, 08:10 PM - Thread Starter
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OK, so getting a little further with this software now.

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I have managed to figure out the angles tools, all the circles on the walls denote speakers and their rough placement. I did not add the mains as there is pretty much only one place for them to go smile.gif

Wides are at 60 degrees, rears are at 100, and the back surrounds at 150.

Still playing with riser ideas.

My plan was to do a 12 - 16" high for the back row and just put the 2 main seats on a small 4" high platform, just enough for the butt kickers to utilize.

Once I had things drawn out though it would have mean our viewing angle would be too steep I think.

From eye level to the top of the screen was about 25 degrees, a lot more than I am comfortable with.

So if I put the front row on a 1' high platform then it takes the angel down to 15 degrees only, much more reasonable.

This does alloy for a few of my other plans to come to fruition, I originally thought about adding drawers to the front riser, great for game controller storage and such. With a 1" riser I could do a couple 9" x 30" drawers.

Also would be able to do the specialized buttkicker platform idea I had. More on that later once I sketch some stuff up.

Also, here is a little more progress pics from the build, still a long way to go...

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Will post some current HT pics as well, our current home goes to market in the next few weeks, so things are looking pretty nice, will grab a few screens later this week.

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post #19 of 178 Old 06-13-2013, 09:14 PM - Thread Starter
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Sorry been a little while since I posted, been busy like crazy with our existing home, getting things ready to list and whatnot.

Have not made much progress on the 3d stuff, been a couple weeks since I fired it up, but here are some new pics.

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Decided to go with my original plan of a one foot platform in the front row and then another one foot for the back row.

This did pose some issues with the angle of the projector beam, my original placement would mean it would hit the front row of seats.

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A huge thanks to BigMouthinDC for sorting out the projector angles for me here - Link, as you can see in the picture with the central beam I have very little option as to where the projector goes. I need it up as high as possible or it will intersect the front row of seating.

No new equipment purchased yet, in a bit of a holding pattern now for the next bit, we need to get this current home sold before we can contiune.

Here is one of the latest pics, almost complete on the outside framing. Woohoo!

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post #20 of 178 Old 06-28-2013, 07:52 PM - Thread Starter
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So not much progress since the last update, we did see the builder recently and we are still looking at mid September, Sept 30th at the latest for getting into the house.

Here is the home currently:

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Now that the doors are in there will be much less progress pictures coming as we have to schedule house visits now, may be a few weeks in between going forward.

One major thing is that we will not be able to develop the exterior of the property likely until next year in the spring.

So what does that mean for the theater? Well now the 2 weeks+ I was going to book off to finish the outside goes into theater and basement reno.

I will now have 2 solid weeks to get things settled in the basement.

Working on getting the building materials list finalized and ordered, we have all the wood for the shelving in the library ordered now, 115 pieces of ash lumber. But I still need to calc all the lumber and drywall and such.

On the equipment front I got a STEAL on the 5 channel amplifier I needed. Grabbed another Rotel RMB-1095 for the wides and heights from Audiogon for a mere $700!!!! All that is left now is the Oppo 103 and the automation stuff and I am done electronics wise.

Also got the rack situation settled, we have a spare full size 42u IBM server rack I am taking home, it is sadly full server rack depth (39"), but it will save me having to import one here to Canada from Midatlantic or Omnimount, so I am up $1000 right there. Just need to buy some shelves and maybe a fan for it and I am set.

I need to pick someones brain soon about electrical, I am toying with the idea of a sub panel in the media closet, not sure if that is a better way to go, or just add individual breakers for 4 or 5 outlets. Got more research to do before I start asking questions though.

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post #21 of 178 Old 07-07-2013, 07:35 PM - Thread Starter
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Well things are still plugging along.

House is shingled now, and all the HVAC, Plumbing and Electrical are in. Should be getting the basement poured in the next few days.

237689

Did see my first little snag.

Looks like the rough in vent stack is going to fall right smack in the middle of my rear row of seating. From what I have been reading I should be able to cut it and put in an elbow to loop it to the right a few feet. This would put it right in the wall which was my original though.

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Still getting the final totals for my wood and sheet rock together. and I am just about to start on the electrical estimates, I am still reading up on Canadian codes and such to see what I have to do.

Pretty sure I will run a dedicated sub panel in the equipment room, will just be so much easier than running so many drops across the whole basement. I think I will be doing 5 separate breakers in the sub panel. So I am thinking a 100amp service in there should be good, then just do 5x 20amp breakers.

One thing I am not sure about is the IBM rack I got has a built in power strip that takes 2x 220 plugs. Not sure if I should wire this in or not. Is there any real benefit to such a power bar?

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post #22 of 178 Old 07-20-2013, 02:48 PM - Thread Starter
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Not much useful movement to report.

House is just 70 days out now max (or 56 days min)

Concrete is ready to pour in the basement so everything is about to be set in stone, pun intended...

I am going to start a separate thread about the screen size and such. I am toying with DIY with just buying Da-Lite screen material. I have a DA-Lite Permwall 120" now in cinema contour and love the look of he picture.

Getting one at 159" is about $850 with the frame. But I have found a few places that just supply the screen material for around $350. I am just a little leery building the frame, my last attempt a few years ago was dismal to say the least, but then again I did not come here to do any research smile.gif

Also now planning on adding a masking system for the screen, been doing a lot of reading on the benefits and I love the way it looks and the contrast it adds will be great.

Picked up a little more gear for the Media Server, grabbed a couple Omnistor SE3016, they are 16 bay HDD expanders, can do 3tb drives, no plan to fill them to capacity yet, but I have been fighting a storage shortage for ages now since I started to digitize all my movies, Blu-rays take us SOOOO much space,

I know I promised this long ago, but here is the current HT, humble and simplistic.

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post #23 of 178 Old 07-21-2013, 08:35 PM - Thread Starter
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OK, so after an ENTIRE weekend of reading, rereading, checking, double checking I think I have finally got the screen info I want.

This has been a real challenge between how much of a gain I will get, and balancing the projector placement wit the size I want to have.

I will be sacrificing some fL by putting the projector in the media closet and out of the theater, but I REALLY do not want it overhead anymore. I want a simple room with no equipment in it except for speakers, hope I do not regret that decision long term.

I will be going with the High Contrast High Power 3.4gain screen from Da-lite. Going to grab the Perm-wall solution as it is cheap and easy to use, love the 119" one we have now, it has done me no wrong.

I will not be getting the full benefit from it sadly though as it is retro-refelctive, so I will be seeing roughly 1.8 - 1.9 gain at the front row viewing positions. This seemed to be my best bet and yielded the biggest overall fL gains. I should be coming in around the 17-18 fL mark for 2d viewing and maybe 4 - 5 fl for 3d which seems to be the norm.

Had to drop the Pearlescent screen idea after reading nothing but negativity about it.

One drawback though to the 2.4 is I have little choice but to implement a masking system of some sort. Been reading through the DIY threads on this and think I have what I need figured out. About $300 worth of parts and I will have what is needed, maybe less if I can find a good used motor on Ebay.

Will be snagging the screen from av-outlet, they are hands down the cheapest I have seen so far, might grab all the masking motor and pieces from them too as they carry everything I will need.

Benn mucking about with Sketchup some more as well. really great for putting into perspective the size of things. I dropped in a rough box the size of my new recliners and found I am going to have to make the first row platform wider. That and my projector position JUST clears the headrest.

Who would have thought a 21x15 theater would be too small. lol.

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post #24 of 178 Old 07-22-2013, 02:57 AM
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how tall is your home theater? I think you and I may end up having many common issues. Curious to see how you end up dealing with that beam running through your theater.

we are also building a house expected to be finished by christmas.
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post #25 of 178 Old 07-22-2013, 05:24 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRock3x8 View Post

how tall is your home theater? I think you and I may end up having many common issues. Curious to see how you end up dealing with that beam running through your theater.

we are also building a house expected to be finished by christmas.
Basement is 8ft only sadly, and now I am kicking myself for not opting for the 9ft, hindsight being what it is.

I keep making minor changes, but I think it is all gonna just squeeze in. Hopefully.

I am so loathe to move the projector into the theater and I am trying to avoid it at all costs right now, so far on paper it seems to work, but sadly I may not know until I am standing in the room.

One thing that is going to suffer for sure is any motion gaming we used to do. In my current setup I can stand in front of the couch without intersecting the projection image.

No such luck in the new room.

Now in all fairness we do not play a lot of Wii or Kinect, but the option to do so will be gone completely now.

What kind of issues are you thinking of?

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post #26 of 178 Old 07-22-2013, 06:05 AM
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motion gaming is sort of a joke anyways. I wouldn't kill yourself over that.

if I read your drawings correctly, you've got a beam that protrudes down from your ceiling that basically cuts across your room in half and if your house is anything like mine - that will make your lowest point in the room about 7'. I still have not figured out exactly how to deal with that yet but then again my house is just a 150' x 180' triangle shaped lot full of mostly dead trees at the moment smile.gif

I think our home theater dimensions are very similar though so I'm curious to see how yours turns out.
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post #27 of 178 Old 07-22-2013, 06:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cofn42 View Post

Basement is 8ft only sadly, and now I am kicking myself for not opting for the 9ft, hindsight being what it is.

How are you fitting a 2' tall riser in a room with only 8' ceilings? I think you are going to have headroom issues and also a problem making that entry door work. Couldn't you eliminate the riser for the front row seats (setting them on the floor) and drop the rear riser down from 24" to 12"? This would also help with the problem you're having with the seats blocking your projected image.
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post #28 of 178 Old 07-22-2013, 06:29 AM
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right, what spaceman said. you will probably want to go with an 8" or 10" riser coupled with a 2 or 3" mini riser that just fits under the chairs
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post #29 of 178 Old 07-22-2013, 11:01 AM - Thread Starter
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My plan for the riser is not quiet as pictured, still working out how to draw in 3d, lol

I am planning something more along the lines of just having the rear couch on a riser about 1 ft deeper than it is, not the width of the room as show in the drawing. Rest of the room would be on a 1ft riser though as I have multiple plans for the space below it so I can't drop it.

Doing a pop up panel for usb, network, power. also building in 2 butt kickers to the front row, and planning on pull out drawers along the front of the riser for gaming storage.

Projector "shouldn't" be an issue, it is going to be close, but if I bump it up maybe an inch it will clear for sure. Really i just needs to clear the headrests and that is it, and it is sort of doing that now.

I just never imagined everything would be so damn tight, I really am regretting that we didn't do 9ft ceilings now frown.gif

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post #30 of 178 Old 07-24-2013, 11:30 AM - Thread Starter
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OK, so we got our screen details hammered out.

After much talk in the Da-Lite HP section of the forum here we decided to go with a 159" Perm-wall High Power.

Dropped the Pearlescent from the short list due to the negative reviews all over the place (really why is DL still selling this?)

Still will not get the full use of the 2.4 gain, but we went with the HP over the HP High Contrast as we took another 1.9gain hit due to the 20 degree viewing angle.

I should not be hitting about 20 fL at the front row, and a little brighter in the rear as the projector is about 18 inches about the heads in that row.

Still working on a making system, getting a lot harder than I though. Mainly because I need to tie it to either my Insteon controls or Global Cache.

Think I will be achieving this with the dry contact method, already have 3 pairs of dry contacts not being used on the GC-100 I have, just have to do some playing to see if it will work as intended. Fingers crossed.

Picked up a Somfy 506S2 4 wire motor for the auto mask today on Ebay for a bloody steal!!! Just $50!!! guy still has 2 left if anyone is interested.

Just need the proper control board, thinking a Somfy Snaptrack-DC should do the job, this is the part I am still struggling with. There seems to be no clear cut instructions on how to make this work like I want. Or I should say no CHEAP way to make it work like I want, they have RS-232 controllers but they are about $250 and you still need to buy the main controller.

Where there is a will there is a way, just need to do more reading.

Only 67 days or less left til I get to start building!!!!

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