LARGE EMPTY theater room and I NEED YOUR HELP - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #1 of 44 Old 06-09-2013, 02:20 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
jlohojo7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 164
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Liked: 18
Hello we are finally about to break ground on our 5,000 sq ft dream home. I have always been a big home theater person but the theater that we have now was an after thought when the house was complete. NOW i have a blank canvas and I want to get it right. the room we have designed is going to 17ft wide by 32ft long with tiered seating that goes down towards the screen. I would like to have a 150" ish screen since i will have plenty of rows of seating. no windows and a false wall behind the screen to store all equipment and hide speakers behind acoustic screen.

My equipment i currently have which is now several years old is
elite screen 120" fixed silver frame
sony vpl-vw70
emotiva upa-7 amp
harmon kardon 257. def will upgrade this
polk rti a9 front and matching center bi amped
mirage omdr surrounds
REL T3 sub (should i get another one of these)

Thinking of starting over with everything or would you salvage any of it. If you guys where me what would you use and how would you position your speakers. since the room is so long i was thinking of doing like a 9.2 channel system or something similar. seems like a room of that size would be difficult to fill with sound. Also i want the projector to not be 30 foot back so its not all washed out. where would you position that. i know the screen will determine that probably.

I am open to any and all ideas. please please ask questions. sorry this is so long.

JJ
jlohojo7 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 44 Old 06-09-2013, 03:16 PM
AVS Special Member
 
jautor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 7,623
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 53 Post(s)
Liked: 335
Figure out your seating plan(s), screen size (and therefore projector location) and speaker positions will all come from that...

IMO, 32' is a lot of depth for the width of that room. How many people do you want to seat? You've got room for 4 theater recliners per row - but making three rows of recliners will mean you'll have a huge variance in the screen distance from the front vs. back row. 150" screen would be huge for a front row at 10', for example, but probably fine for a third row at 23'. Figure 6.5' between theater recliner rows.

And when you say 150" screen, do you mean a scope screen or 16x9?

For your given width, I'd consider reducing the total depth of the room, depending on your maximum seating, to something in the 25-28' range (assuming a 2' false wall for an AT screen).

Oh, and keep that Emotiva Amp! You can just add a 2-channel amp to get to 9.1. Perhaps a large 2-channel for the L/R, too...

Jeff

Rock Creek Theater -- CIH, Panamorph, Martin Logan, SVS PB2000, Carada Masquerade, Grafik Eye, Bar table, Green Glue, JVC RS50 
Theater build photos: http://photobucket.com/autor-ht

jautor is offline  
post #3 of 44 Old 06-09-2013, 04:26 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
jlohojo7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 164
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Liked: 18
jautor THANKS for getting the ball rolling. this is exactly the kind of feedback i want. I have designed many home theaters and installed them however this is my first dedicated project from the get go and now that i have the money, time and ability i want to do it right from the start thus the reason i am reaching out to everyone else. I also want to make sure i start it right so i can add upgrades later on and dont pigeon hole myself with the screen size or anything right now. so here i go.

I am thinking 3 rows probably 3-4 seats each. want to do a 2.35:1 acoustic and curved screen. there will be a 3 foot false wall so actually theater space will be around 29 feet. so if this was your theater how far back from the screen would you start the first row assuming 6.5 between rows.

good idea on addings the 2 channel for the front L/R. what about projector ? probably under $10k.

thanks for taking the time to respond.

jj
jlohojo7 is offline  
post #4 of 44 Old 06-09-2013, 05:51 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
jlohojo7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 164
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Liked: 18
also i am going to need an anamorphic lens im assuming. is there anything out there thats affordable. ive read about the cinevista a little bit seems to be about $1200ish. is there anything out there you guys would recommend other then that one that is affordable.
jlohojo7 is offline  
post #5 of 44 Old 06-09-2013, 06:36 PM
AVS Special Member
 
jautor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 7,623
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 53 Post(s)
Liked: 335
Quote:
Originally Posted by jlohojo7 View Post

I am thinking 3 rows probably 3-4 seats each. want to do a 2.35:1 acoustic and curved screen. there will be a 3 foot false wall so actually theater space will be around 29 feet. so if this was your theater how far back from the screen would you start the first row assuming 6.5 between rows.

3 feet for a false wall is a lot of space consumed. A room layout showing the entry and surrounding area will get you better feedback on the design.

With your width 4 seats is no problem - how many people do you really expect to have? I had originally planned for a theater with 3 rows of 5 seats each. But realizing the cost in seating alone made me re-think that (and dimension-wise, my room would not have fit those anyway). So I've got 8 recliners and a bar table with 4 more chairs. I seem to average round 8 folks when I invite a bunch (like 20+), and only a few times has the room been "more than full"...

Quote:
Originally Posted by jlohojo7 View Post

also i am going to need an anamorphic lens im assuming. is there anything out there thats affordable. ive read about the cinevista a little bit seems to be about $1200ish. is there anything out there you guys would recommend other then that one that is affordable.

Do some reading in the CIH forum for lens comparisons. I'd suggest keeping with a flat screen and putting that money into a better lens solution, or a masking system. With a nice long throw, the pincushion distortion can be easily masked by the screen frame.


Jeff

Rock Creek Theater -- CIH, Panamorph, Martin Logan, SVS PB2000, Carada Masquerade, Grafik Eye, Bar table, Green Glue, JVC RS50 
Theater build photos: http://photobucket.com/autor-ht

jautor is offline  
post #6 of 44 Old 06-09-2013, 06:49 PM
AVS Special Member
 
HopefulFred's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 2,626
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 63 Post(s)
Liked: 172
Given the scope of the project you're proposing, I would recommend you invest in cylindrical optics for your lens. They are significantly more expensive, but especially on large screens they don't give up as much to chromatic aberration. Maybe something like this could be worked into the budget - I don't think you'll need $10,000 for the projector alone.

Along the same logical lines, you are in a position to really benefit from using multiple side surround loudspeakers in an array, like in the commercial cinema. This will get each row of seating a better surround presentation, but means more speakers, obviously - as well as more amplification - but also special processing and probably pro calibration. Most people find that for two rows of seats you can make a reasonable compromise about surround location and calibration, but I'd argue that three rows present a real challenge to good setup without multiple surrounds.

You can definitely keep using the amp and maybe the projector too. It'd be nice to have more light output, but with light control you might get by with a new bulb and a screen with some gain. You will definitely want more sub(s).

If you're going DIY, jautor is right - start with defining the seating area. Build the speakers around that and see what screen and projector fit from there. If you're not going DIY, now is the time to consult at expert for the layout - it could be the best money you spend on the whole project.

What about major mechanical - HVAC and sound isolation?
HopefulFred is online now  
post #7 of 44 Old 06-09-2013, 08:48 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
jlohojo7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 164
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Liked: 18
Juator you are right we have 7 seats in our theater now and rarely are both rows used much less all seats. I was thinking about the cost per chair also and that might deter me from doing 12. I just am in love with the idea of having a large theater. im not very familiar with masking systems but seems like something to research. i know generally what they do but not how they operate or anything like that.

hopefulfred thanks for your ideas. i was thinking about possibly keeping this one for a year or so spending the money on a nice lens. I will have complete control over lighting so do you think i will still need more output with a larger screen and brand new bulb ? As far as subs go probably front behind the screen placement or possibly one in front one in back ? I will probably have it professionally calibrated. I am pretty good with video as i did my sony and then had a pro come do it and he said after 5 mins he couldnt make it any better then what i had already done. however audio i am awful at.

I actually havent given any thought to anything mechanical what are you thinking. now is the time. my builder is doing some sound proofing and some stuff he has done for other theaters but i guess i dont really know what you are thinking/talking about.

jj
jlohojo7 is offline  
post #8 of 44 Old 06-10-2013, 10:06 AM
Advanced Member
 
design1stcode2nd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 827
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 10 Post(s)
Liked: 33
If I was starting with a blank canvas and reasonable funds I'd hit up a pro for at least some design/layout help. I'd think two rows of 4 with a bar at the back would be a nice option. You get a number of seats but don't have as much variance in distance between row two and the bar.

Or as Jautor said reduce the length and you can do a row of 4 and then a row of 5. The larger the space the quicker things add up; you need a more powerful projector, more powerful subs/speakers, more subs, etc.

The MacBeth Theater (flood resilient build)
 

Play like a Raven

design1stcode2nd is offline  
post #9 of 44 Old 06-10-2013, 10:56 AM
AVS Special Member
 
tlogan6797's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 4,834
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 35
^^^^ -What he said.

i think the talk of equipment is really putting the cart before horse, here. Design the room first. Do all the things you can't go back and re-do. Upgrading the equipment is the easy part.

Tom Logan
Everytime I reply the thread ends
Need motivation? Get LOGANED
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1014847

An as-yet un-named theater designed by Big-WarrenP-BritInVA
tlogan6797 is offline  
post #10 of 44 Old 06-10-2013, 11:55 AM
AVS Special Member
 
HopefulFred's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 2,626
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 63 Post(s)
Liked: 172
The mechanical things I'm talking about are sound isolation, electrical supply, and ventilation. As Tom said - stuff you can't go back and re-do.
HopefulFred is online now  
post #11 of 44 Old 06-10-2013, 02:30 PM
Advanced Member
 
Nyal Mellor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: SF Bay Area, California, USA
Posts: 909
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 19 Post(s)
Liked: 62
Yeah, everything should start with the design and layout.

I normally start with seats:
- how many seats do you want?
- should all the seats sound equally good?

From there you can work out how many subs you need (probably 4 if you want even bass across multiple rows in a rectangular room) and layout subs and seats for even bass response.

Then I would look at speaker positioning and the projection system design, mainly in terms of viewing angles.

The process may take a few iterations to nail. This gives you a good foundation to layer on acoustic treatment, HVAC, etc.

With a room that length you could build out an equipment and projection room at the back. That would make theater cooling and noise management a lot easier.

Master of Minions, Acoustic Frontiers. We specialize in the design and creation of high performance listening rooms, home theaters and project studios for discerning audio/video enthusiasts.
Nyal Mellor is online now  
post #12 of 44 Old 06-10-2013, 02:56 PM
AVS Special Member
 
HopefulFred's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 2,626
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 63 Post(s)
Liked: 172
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nyal Mellor View Post

With a room that length you could build out an equipment and projection room at the back. That would make theater cooling and noise management a lot easier.
This sounds like a great idea. If you give up six to eight feet of length, you get a whole projection booth and airlock entrance.
HopefulFred is online now  
post #13 of 44 Old 06-10-2013, 03:21 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
jlohojo7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 164
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Liked: 18
wow i like that idea of a projection booth. if you dont mind elaborate on that. i am thinking for sure i am going to do 3 rows of seatings. thinking of starting the first row at 12" from the screen then 7 feet between then next two. that would leave me 4" at the back of the room.

I have already spoke to the builder about having dedicated circuits and sound proofing the room.

Here is a problem i am dealing with now is how to you maintain proper temp in your equipment racks. right now i have 5 racks that where framed into the wall and then drywalled over. they tend to get heated up pretty quickly. i though about running vents to them but didnt want to be pumping heat in there during the winter.

here is a copy of the bottom floor plan the theater is on the far left. there is a lobby with a wet bar and snacks that leads to the heavy double doors that open into the theater room. wife wants to do the whole cliche home theater signs etc in the lobby.

1stfloorplan.pdf 281k .pdf file
Attached Files
File Type: pdf 1stfloorplan.pdf (280.6 KB, 11 views)
jlohojo7 is offline  
post #14 of 44 Old 06-10-2013, 04:42 PM
AVS Special Member
 
HopefulFred's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 2,626
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 63 Post(s)
Liked: 172
Normally, I would imagine the entrance on the rear wall. In your case, that doesn't seem practical. Is the room to the right of the theater a bedroom?



Where is the wet bar and other stuff in this layout? If there is a good bit of flexibility in this, you can do some cool stuff. Can you use paint or something to label and draw on this image and then re-post it?

Can you give us any other details? You said first floor, so is there upstairs above this portion of the hose, or will you have access to attic space above it? Will it be on a slab or over basement/crawl space?
HopefulFred is online now  
post #15 of 44 Old 06-10-2013, 04:53 PM
AVS Special Member
 
HopefulFred's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 2,626
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 63 Post(s)
Liked: 172
Just to illustrate the general concept, here's this adjustment. By taking 5 feet from the rear of the room, you remove all the heat and unwanted noise form the theater. I'm not sure how badly you want that 5 feet. And before you go committing to this sort of decision, there are sight lines and riser heights to work out.



I put the door out from the corner to leave you with corner space in the room for bass treatment, should you need. Also, the space behind the door inside the booth could be deep enough for racks. I've drawn a projection window for the projector - pro-style.
HopefulFred is online now  
post #16 of 44 Old 06-10-2013, 08:18 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
jlohojo7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 164
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Liked: 18
first off fred.....wow you are awesome thanks for everything. i wish i could get this type of effort out of my actual builder. its sad you can use a CAD program and i cant even get the paint program to open up a simple file so i can edit. im gonna go print it off and label the stuff and scan it back on there and answer your questions here in a few. thanks so much.

jj
jlohojo7 is offline  
post #17 of 44 Old 06-10-2013, 08:32 PM
AVS Special Member
 
HopefulFred's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 2,626
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 63 Post(s)
Liked: 172
You're welcome, but don't be misled - I just used windows snip tool and MS paint. smile.gif
HopefulFred is online now  
post #18 of 44 Old 06-10-2013, 08:50 PM
AVS Club Gold
 
SierraMikeBravo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Topeka, KS
Posts: 1,392
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 29
Before we go dreaming...What is the height of the room? If you plan on setting a projector back that far, you will need something with a lot of light output and likely a long throw lens as well.

Shawn Byrne
Erskine Group
HAA Design Certified -THX Certified Professional

Design-Video & Audio Calibration Information

The original Pro Theater Layout
SierraMikeBravo is offline  
post #19 of 44 Old 06-10-2013, 09:07 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
jlohojo7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 164
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Liked: 18
well fred you had me impressed. yes the room to the right is the only guest bed on the bottom floor. we havent finalized the upstairs but i am guessing part of the second floor will be above the theater. it will be on a concrete slab that they are digging out or however they do it to create the tiered seating. id rather have the entrance in the back but this ended up being a compromise with the wife so im happy with what i got.

SMB if i recall the height of the theater room is 10. and i do like to get carried away.

let me know if this creates any other questions which im sure it will. again sorry for the lack of ability on my part. see attached.

jj

new plan.pdf 159k .pdf file
Attached Files
File Type: pdf new plan.pdf (158.7 KB, 7 views)
jlohojo7 is offline  
post #20 of 44 Old 06-10-2013, 10:48 PM
AVS Club Gold
 
SierraMikeBravo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Topeka, KS
Posts: 1,392
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 29
Are you pouring concrete for the tiered seating?

Shawn Byrne
Erskine Group
HAA Design Certified -THX Certified Professional

Design-Video & Audio Calibration Information

The original Pro Theater Layout
SierraMikeBravo is offline  
post #21 of 44 Old 06-11-2013, 05:57 AM
AVS Special Member
 
tlogan6797's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 4,834
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 35
Quote:
I have already spoke to the builder about having dedicated circuits and sound proofing the room.

Your builder is the wrong guy to get sound proofing advice from. You want to talk to Shawn (above) and/or Ted White at the http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/ (sorry can't find the menu bar to insert links so you'll have to cut and paste).

Tom Logan
Everytime I reply the thread ends
Need motivation? Get LOGANED
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1014847

An as-yet un-named theater designed by Big-WarrenP-BritInVA
tlogan6797 is offline  
post #22 of 44 Old 06-11-2013, 09:36 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
jlohojo7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 164
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Liked: 18
yes from my understanding they are pouring concrete for the seating. dropping it down from the rest of the home. however its still early on and things may change.
jlohojo7 is offline  
post #23 of 44 Old 06-11-2013, 09:50 AM
AVS Special Member
 
HopefulFred's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 2,626
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 63 Post(s)
Liked: 172
That's a major commitment, not to be taken lightly. It would make me too nervous. What happens if your front row ends up two feet too close - you can't just back it up.

If you were to have the whole room dug deeper, you'd have more flexibility for changes and more opportunity to make good use of the extra volume.
jautor likes this.
HopefulFred is online now  
post #24 of 44 Old 06-11-2013, 09:55 AM
Advanced Member
 
Nyal Mellor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: SF Bay Area, California, USA
Posts: 909
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 19 Post(s)
Liked: 62
Quote:
Originally Posted by SierraMikeBravo View Post

Before we go dreaming...What is the height of the room? If you plan on setting a projector back that far, you will need something with a lot of light output and likely a long throw lens as well.

Long throw lens yes

....but I don't think you need a projector with more light output if you put it further away from the screen?!

If you are in the lens 'sweet spot' then light output will be the same whether the projector is 25ft away from the screen or 10ft.

Strangely SIM2's T3 long throw lenses actually have more light output than their T1 and T2...

Master of Minions, Acoustic Frontiers. We specialize in the design and creation of high performance listening rooms, home theaters and project studios for discerning audio/video enthusiasts.
Nyal Mellor is online now  
post #25 of 44 Old 06-11-2013, 09:57 AM
Advanced Member
 
Nyal Mellor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: SF Bay Area, California, USA
Posts: 909
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 19 Post(s)
Liked: 62
Quote:
Originally Posted by jlohojo7 View Post

wow i like that idea of a projection booth. if you dont mind elaborate on that. i am thinking for sure i am going to do 3 rows of seatings. thinking of starting the first row at 12" from the screen then 7 feet between then next two. that would leave me 4" at the back of the room.

I have already spoke to the builder about having dedicated circuits and sound proofing the room.

Here is a problem i am dealing with now is how to you maintain proper temp in your equipment racks. right now i have 5 racks that where framed into the wall and then drywalled over. they tend to get heated up pretty quickly. i though about running vents to them but didnt want to be pumping heat in there during the winter.

here is a copy of the bottom floor plan the theater is on the far left. there is a lobby with a wet bar and snacks that leads to the heavy double doors that open into the theater room. wife wants to do the whole cliche home theater signs etc in the lobby.

1stfloorplan.pdf 281k .pdf file

Check out MA's Ductcool (bottom of page) for an idea of what you could do: http://www.middleatlantic.com/rackac/cooling/qcool.htm

Note you will need to think about where the "make up air" (the cool air replacing the hot air that has just been sucked out of the rack) is coming from.

Master of Minions, Acoustic Frontiers. We specialize in the design and creation of high performance listening rooms, home theaters and project studios for discerning audio/video enthusiasts.
Nyal Mellor is online now  
post #26 of 44 Old 06-11-2013, 10:35 AM
 
JWagstaff's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 853
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 28 Post(s)
Liked: 68
Quote:
Originally Posted by tlogan6797 View Post

Your builder is the wrong guy to get sound proofing advice from. You want to talk to Shawn (above) and/or Ted White at the http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/ (sorry can't find the menu bar to insert links so you'll have to cut and paste).

agreed. usually a builder's "soundproofing" technique is putting insulation in the walls. If you actually want to soundproof it you have to do a lot of things, definitely check out soundproofingcompany.com
JWagstaff is offline  
post #27 of 44 Old 06-11-2013, 10:35 AM
AVS Club Gold
 
SierraMikeBravo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Topeka, KS
Posts: 1,392
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 29
Quote:
Originally Posted by jlohojo7 View Post

yes from my understanding they are pouring concrete for the seating. dropping it down from the rest of the home. however its still early on and things may change.

Pouring concrete for your riser is not a good idea...for many reasons.

Shawn Byrne
Erskine Group
HAA Design Certified -THX Certified Professional

Design-Video & Audio Calibration Information

The original Pro Theater Layout
SierraMikeBravo is offline  
post #28 of 44 Old 06-11-2013, 10:43 AM
AVS Club Gold
 
SierraMikeBravo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Topeka, KS
Posts: 1,392
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 29
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nyal Mellor View Post

Long throw lens yes

....but I don't think you need a projector with more light output if you put it further away from the screen?!

If you are in the lens 'sweet spot' then light output will be the same whether the projector is 25ft away from the screen or 10ft.

Strangely SIM2's T3 long throw lenses actually have more light output than their T1 and T2...

As big as a screen as the client is talking...yes. 12-18 ftL is the target, and most mainstream projectors are woefully inadequate for that requirement. Also, we do have additional scatterers in that distance. Albeit not much, but it could affect things if there was a lot of dust in the room. I prefer the Runco Lightstyle series myself.

Shawn Byrne
Erskine Group
HAA Design Certified -THX Certified Professional

Design-Video & Audio Calibration Information

The original Pro Theater Layout
SierraMikeBravo is offline  
post #29 of 44 Old 06-11-2013, 01:06 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
jlohojo7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 164
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Liked: 18
i will def do some more investigating about the soundproofing and riser ideas. so ideally you would just lower the entire room then build it up with with wooden platforms ?

the cooling factor does really concern me.

also i am going to call the soundproofingco and get their input. you guys are great and the ideas are really starting to come together for me of what the room layout should look like.
jlohojo7 is offline  
post #30 of 44 Old 06-11-2013, 01:16 PM
AVS Special Member
 
tlogan6797's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 4,834
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 35
ooo...oooo...ooo.....Tell Ted or John that I sent you and ask for the Loganator Discount.



That should get you at least a chuckle from them.

Tom Logan
Everytime I reply the thread ends
Need motivation? Get LOGANED
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1014847

An as-yet un-named theater designed by Big-WarrenP-BritInVA
tlogan6797 is offline  
Reply Dedicated Theater Design & Construction

Tags
Sony Vpl Vw70 Projector Replacement Lamp With Housing

User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off