New construction basement build - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 4 Old 06-22-2013, 03:13 PM - Thread Starter
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I am starting a new construction build and have a few concerns that I am hoping someone can help me with.

My room is 14' x 17' x 9'. The size is pretty tight for the planned 2 rows of 3 seating and a 100" screen. The first row of seating will be about 9ft from the screen. This is in a basement with the front screen wall and left side being on 2x4 walls with concrete on the other side. Other 2 side have living space on them. My current theater used a single layer of drywall and fiberglass R13 insulation in the walls and ceiling. This worked well enough for my current house layout. My new house has the theater under the master bath with the master bedroom being adjacent of course.

I think I have the budget to do 2 layers of drywall and green glue for the walls and ceiling. My concerns are related to HVAC and insulation.

We are using foam insulation on the exterior walls and cellulose in some of the interior walls to help with sound around bathrooms and such. Is cellulose that much better than fiberglass and is there a benefit to spraying cellulose on the theater walls vs fiberglass?

I noticed today that the HVAC company appears to have a return on the wall between the master bedroom and bath. This is coming up through one of the theater walls as the HVAC is in the basement. I worry that this will be a major problem with sound coming into the master bedroom. Are my concerns valid and is there a way to make this work or should I see if they can rework the HVAC path? I believe they are going to run a trunk line in the middle of the basement and then run the lines through the ceiling joists. The basement is pretty open with the theater being on the left and a living/play room on the right.

I had hoped to upgrade the new theater from my current but the length has killed my plans for a bigger screen. My budget is dwindling so I am hoping that I don't have to do a boat load to keep the master bedroom comfortable. I assume the only issue if I use double drywall, GG and insulation will be flanking sound and maybe vibration from the sub. I don't want to do the extra drywall if the the should is going to bleed through the HVAC though.

I have to get my HVAC guys inline soon so any help would be greatly appreciated.
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post #2 of 4 Old 06-23-2013, 08:24 AM
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I built my own home theater room when I completely remodeled my basement. When I started, it was one big room (70's style ranch, open basement) with a center load beam with 7 posts and it had a hvac trunkline down the middle with feeds running to each side of the house. The ceiling was a dropped panel ceiling hung below the floor joists, so that meant I could only make my ceiling as high as the joists, less the ceiling materials. I made the theater walls 6" thick with staggered studs, insulated, with two layers a 5/8" drywall on each side and ceiling with Green Glue. I had to move trunklines, rewire, frame walls and everything else you can think of. I had super insulated everything as well as double drywalling the trunklines. If your interested, I can
send you pictures of each phase of conatstruction. It was quite a journey..........but worth the trip. I have a JVC RS56U projector, a Stewart Studiotek G130
123 inch screen, Oppo 95, Onkyo 5008 AV. Klipsch R83 Home Theater system with 4 added 5650 speakers. I have 6 seats (3 floor, 3 on riser). The light is totally controlled. I put the Middle Atlantic rack under the basement stairs (which I had completely rebuild and soundproof).
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post #3 of 4 Old 06-26-2013, 05:30 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the response.

I did some reading and think I answered my own question on the insulation. It sees as if your standard fiberglass insulation is just as good as cellulose for the theater room.

The return running up to the main floor is just in the wall and is not open to the theater room so that somewhat ok. The return piping will be insulated plus what I will be doing to the room. The is a new addition to an old farmhouse so my option are limited on how we get the HVAC ran to the house.

My room is a bit small to do a staggered stud wall so I am hoping the double dry wall and GG will do ok with my needs. My current room is roughly the same size and the people sitting in the seats on the riser will hit their feet on the back of the front row frown.gif I am going to have 6ft for the riser and the front seats will sit in front of that. This will cause the viewing distance to be about 9ft for the front row but I think this is the best I can do. Kids like sitting close wink.gif

See any other concerns?

I have a Mitsubishi HD1000U now but I am looking at some newer 1080P projectors like the Optoma HD25 but really have not got very far. My current theater does not have a front stage either so I am considering doing this with maybe some framing on the sides of the screen to hide the floor standing speakers. I did not do any acoustical treatment on my current theater either. I get over whelmed looking at some of the threads here!
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post #4 of 4 Old 06-28-2013, 10:09 AM
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I am not an expert installer but I did a lot of research and did things that made sense to me for my situation. Any sound transmission will take the easiest route (trunk-lines, electrical wall outlets, doors, framing, etc.. I treated the sound as it were water. I didn’t want it to flow out of, or into the room. All the wall switches or outlets were sealed with acoustical material and I used acoustical caulk on all the drywall joints and where any wood plates or studs met. I also made my own bass traps. I used Knauf 6# density Fiberglass and Roxul Mineral Wool panels, some of which I framed with poplar and wrapped in a fabric. Before I did that, the sound in the room had a lot of echo….now it’s flat and my system sounds great.
The lighting for the room is in the ceiling. I have 6 cans in the main room and 1 over the rack. The lights are operated with a remote RF (radio frequency) control. I can turn them on at the door with a light switch, and fade or turn them off at my theater seat with the controller. With a RF control, you don’t have to aim the control at the lights……just hit the button. Around my seat riser, I put a couple strings of blue led lights. I mounted them under and behind the base trim so you get a good glow on the carpet….the only thing wrong with them is that the guy that calibrated my projector said that blue wasn’t a great color when the screen picks it up so I am making some modifications.
My theater room walls and ceiling are flat grey. The screen wall and 6ft. of each side wall and ceiling are painted flat black. I found that this creates a darker screen area with less light reflection. My main and center Klipsch theater speakers are in cherry cabinets and in order to darken and remove the reflective surface, I wrapped the speakers in cotton “black out cloth”. It is used in theaters, etc. to remove any light reflection and it really works well. The carpet I chose is a dark blue/black color with stars. It isn’t a theater carpet but it fit the color scheme which is grey walls and ceiling, dark blue sound trap fabric and black theater seats.
I don’t have any heat runs in the theater room. It usually stays around 68 degrees and may warm up from the projector and body heat.
I didn’t have a floor plan or budget when I began my project. I just knew what I wanted and by doing it myself, I was able to keep the costs down. I know one thing for sure…I would never have been able to do it without the internet. Information about every facet of building a home theater is available online and sites that put people with questions together with people with answers such as AVS are extremely helpful.
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