How to build a "Bump Out" in exterior wall for AV rack ? with access door ? - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #1 of 37 Old 06-30-2013, 06:47 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
denalixxx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 23
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I want to install a av rack for theater components in exterior wall so its
flush mounted, not sure if i need to have foundation the size would be roughly...
30 in x 30 in and want a access door to get to the rear ... should i frame and
drywall as normal room ? what bout floor ... desperate and confused ....on my project
denalixxx is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 37 Old 06-30-2013, 06:58 PM
AVS Addicted Member
 
Mfusick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Western MA
Posts: 22,430
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 148 Post(s)
Liked: 777
You mean you want to punch a hole in your exterior wall and box around it so your component are flush mounted on the wall inside the room ???

Yeah you can do it- but you'll need to insulate, and provide for exterior treatments like siding etc... It's not the best route but certainly possible.

Cut a hole in the wall for the size you need plus extra- you'll need to move the studs. I would use double studs on the left and right and then across the top and bottom to tie into the existing studs. Like a frame on the outside of your cutout.

Then insulate, - side.. install your rack etc.

You can do it- but it's not as easy as an interior wall since you must worry about the outside weather treatments and often you might need to reside the entire section of wall your working on. Exterior siding is easy enough though.

-

"Too much is almost enough. Anything in life worth doing is worth overdoing. Moderation is for cowards."
Mfusick is online now  
post #3 of 37 Old 06-30-2013, 07:08 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
denalixxx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 23
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I am stuck on the floor part ? also i have no option but exterior walls as the room is shaped that way only interior wall is to kitchen and Girlfriend went
crazy when i told her she will lose half storage in kitchen
So frame insulate and frame floor same ? how bout the roof part should i throw some shingles on it ? and stucco ? I will go take some pics now and post them
denalixxx is offline  
post #4 of 37 Old 06-30-2013, 07:37 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
denalixxx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 23
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10






here are the pics to help see what i mean
denalixxx is offline  
post #5 of 37 Old 06-30-2013, 09:14 PM
AVS Special Member
 
BllDo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Twin Cities
Posts: 1,050
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 57 Post(s)
Liked: 75
What you are talking about doing is not a small job and really shouldn't be attempted by someone without previous construction experience. You'll need permits first. Is that a slab floor, do you know how to tie into your existing floor? I would highly recommend not attempting this yourself. On the other hand, an experienced contractor would be able to knock this out a couple days.

How much equipment do you have that requires a full rack? A nice component center underneath your TV might suffice.

-




Is it solipsistic in here, or is it just me?
BllDo is offline  
post #6 of 37 Old 06-30-2013, 10:44 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
denalixxx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 23
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
My step dad is a contractor and i have done plenty of remodeling jobs with him years ago i am handy and hands on i plan on him helping me, I just want to get it started and
try to do as much as i can on my own its my 1st home and want to do it myself. i am not doing permits. Component wise Yamaha V671 , Tivo HD XL, Monster power 2500, Samsung blu ray, HTPC, Rack Cooling Fans and few blank panels to finish her up ... Plus want room for future Gear ....The Flooring is the real stumbler for me .... I plan on framing and double drywall interior and exterior would be plywood and then stuco to match.... Roof im not sure....
denalixxx is offline  
post #7 of 37 Old 07-01-2013, 05:19 AM
AVS Addicted Member
 
Mfusick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Western MA
Posts: 22,430
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 148 Post(s)
Liked: 777
Under your step dad supervision ill give you permission to proceed smile.gif

I would not bother taking out a permit, I'd just do it. That's how I roll.

-

"Too much is almost enough. Anything in life worth doing is worth overdoing. Moderation is for cowards."
Mfusick is online now  
post #8 of 37 Old 07-01-2013, 07:00 AM
AVS Special Member
 
jautor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 7,843
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 148 Post(s)
Liked: 356
Assuming you're in a subdivision, you need to be careful with any "additions" - especially to the sides of the house. You'll likely have restrictions on how close you can build permanent structures to the lot line (and your neighbor's house). In many cases, your house is already consuming the available width (or, more correctly, the lots were shrunk to the size of the house plans so the builder could squeeze in as many as possible) - adding width would not be allowed.

You'd also likely have to deal with the Homeowner's association to get permission to add a "room addition" anyway, and you'll likely run into problems with this design anyway (aesthetics, minimize "room size", etc.).

And if you built it without figuring all that out - you'll have to remove it or face fines until you do.

And +1 to the suggestion of a console unit to place the gear under the screen. Racks are great, but going through the expense, trouble, and frankly, "eyesore" that bumpout would cause, I'd consider other options.

Rock Creek Theater -- CIH, Panamorph, Martin Logan, SVS PB2000, Carada Masquerade, Grafik Eye, Bar table, Green Glue, JVC RS50 
Theater build photos: http://photobucket.com/autor-ht

jautor is online now  
post #9 of 37 Old 07-01-2013, 07:07 AM
AVS Special Member
 
BllDo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Twin Cities
Posts: 1,050
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 57 Post(s)
Liked: 75
Quote:
Originally Posted by denalixxx View Post


Are you framing over a window for you TV?

-




Is it solipsistic in here, or is it just me?
BllDo is offline  
post #10 of 37 Old 07-01-2013, 08:03 AM
Advanced Member
 
wraunch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Clayton, NC
Posts: 786
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 44 Post(s)
Liked: 22
I was about to ask the same question. Are you merely putting a stud framed "box" inside of the window?
wraunch is online now  
post #11 of 37 Old 07-01-2013, 03:41 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
denalixxx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 23
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
yes i am putting a 55 lcd in the wall that window faces the street and i will insulate it as well .... FYI theres no home owners ..assoc.
the LCD is for daytime viewing.... and the bump out is out of view and never will be seen unless i walk around to it .... neighbors cant see it as well i
am busting out dam wall today .... go big or go home .
denalixxx is offline  
post #12 of 37 Old 07-01-2013, 04:01 PM
AVS Special Member
 
BllDo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Twin Cities
Posts: 1,050
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 57 Post(s)
Liked: 75
You do know that exterior walls are load bearing and require a header for any opening like a door or window or equipment rack...?

-




Is it solipsistic in here, or is it just me?
BllDo is offline  
post #13 of 37 Old 07-01-2013, 04:39 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
denalixxx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 23
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
So I need to put a header then where I cut out the 2x4 ... Will it REALLY matter 1 2x4 ?
denalixxx is offline  
post #14 of 37 Old 07-01-2013, 04:49 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Tedd's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Ontario
Posts: 3,908
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 39 Post(s)
Liked: 63
Sure it will matter.

What is the exterior wall construction? Is the floor slab concrete or wood? If wood, what direction do the floor joists run?
Tedd is offline  
post #15 of 37 Old 07-01-2013, 04:56 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
denalixxx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 23
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
How can I tell ? I live in Las Vegas so no basement or even crawl space I believe it's slab concrete THATS how all the house I worked on were built few years ago , Ya it's slab foundation
denalixxx is offline  
post #16 of 37 Old 07-01-2013, 04:59 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
denalixxx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 23
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10



For the floor I can do cinder block style right ?
denalixxx is offline  
post #17 of 37 Old 07-01-2013, 05:00 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
denalixxx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 23
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tedd View Post

Sure it will matter.

What is the exterior wall construction? Is the floor slab concrete or wood? If wood, what direction do the floor joists run?

Exterior is Stucco and Standard 2x4 framing
denalixxx is offline  
post #18 of 37 Old 07-01-2013, 05:16 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Tedd's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Ontario
Posts: 3,908
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 39 Post(s)
Liked: 63
I suspected somewhere warm with slab floor... Any foundation would need to be tied to the house so it can't move independant from the slab foundation.

You have wood walls so you could cantilever the bump out. It needs to be designed to handle the weight of the bump out and the 2x4" wall would need
to be beefed up to handle the load.
Tedd is offline  
post #19 of 37 Old 07-01-2013, 10:41 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
denalixxx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 23
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Is there a issue with LCD behind a projector screen ?? I really hope not ?
denalixxx is offline  
post #20 of 37 Old 07-02-2013, 03:54 AM
AVS Special Member
 
BllDo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Twin Cities
Posts: 1,050
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 57 Post(s)
Liked: 75
Speaking generally, there is no issue with the LCD behind the screen provided it's not an acoustically transparent screen. If it were an AT screen, you would likely get some reflection off the TV coming through the screen.

-




Is it solipsistic in here, or is it just me?
BllDo is offline  
post #21 of 37 Old 04-27-2014, 02:01 PM
Newbie
 
Buster3669's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 8
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10

I have a very similar question.

 

I how do I frame in a middle Atlantic rack (Slim 5 29U version) that will be flush mounted to my media room and protrude into the attic. The attic is very accessible and allows easy access to the back of the rack.

 

Options I can think of:

 

1. completely frame a cutout with drywall, insulation and everything else (essential make the square footage of the house larger). This will require me to pull the rack out to access the connections of everything.

 

2. attach plywood (or another suitable alternative) to the rack on all sides and make a hinged door of some kind for back access. This option essentially forgoes drywall and allows easy access to the back of the rack.

 

Concerns: fire and electrical code compliance, a professionally look and access to the rack without pulling it out of the wall.

 

Please help

 

Brian

Buster3669 is offline  
post #22 of 37 Old 04-27-2014, 04:02 PM
HOME THEATER CONTRACTOR
 
BIGmouthinDC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 20,728
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 235 Post(s)
Liked: 583
Frame the cut out as if you were building a small addition to the house as you describe in option 1 then add a pre-hung insulated exterior door to the back. Just grab one off the shelf at your favorite big box. Personally I would grab a metal insulated door normally used for garage entrances then add some damped mass to the inside surface to help keep it quiet.
BIGmouthinDC is online now  
post #23 of 37 Old 04-27-2014, 06:43 PM
Newbie
 
Buster3669's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 8
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10

Thank you!

 

Do you think this will pass code? The drywall on the top, bottom and sides should, but what about the back door? Will it be as suitable of a fire block as drywall? Legal? 

 

Additionally, do you think I can plug my surge suppressor/power conditioner directly into an outlet located in the attic?  My concerns are a standard cord in an unfinished attic, even if its really short and only one cord?

 

Options for this:

 

1. wall mount jacks to the box for everything (surge suppressors/power conditioner, speakers, HDMI, power bridge, Cat 5e, cable and internet etc...). Put simply... no cord goes directly from components into the attic, they are all attached to wall jacks to get through the wall of the box.

 

2. Run everything directly from the components with a bit of insulation (silicone, fiberglass or an equivalent) to fill the hole in the box they run through, preventing heat loss and fire from the attic.

 

Thanks for you insight!

Buster3669 is offline  
post #24 of 37 Old 04-27-2014, 07:14 PM
HOME THEATER CONTRACTOR
 
BIGmouthinDC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 20,728
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 235 Post(s)
Liked: 583
Doors acceptable for use between garages and living space qualify as "fire block". That is one reason I suggested a metal door. Ask a door vendor for help.

If there is an outlet in the attic, tap the power in the outlet and run Romex into the bump out wall and install an outlet. The attic side drywall should be 5/8 firecode. If the bump out is constructed equal to the existing attic walls just think of it as an attic wall, run all your wires inside the bump out walls and the attic walls.
BIGmouthinDC is online now  
post #25 of 37 Old 04-27-2014, 07:21 PM
Newbie
 
Buster3669's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 8
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10

Got it. Thank you! 

 

One last question:

 

How would you run the HDMI cable and power to the PJ? I want to supply power to the PJ from the surge suppressor. I would guess a power bridge from the box to the PJ, but what sort of protection for the HDMI cable? My guess is some form of conduit? Suggestions?

Buster3669 is offline  
post #26 of 37 Old 04-27-2014, 07:34 PM
HOME THEATER CONTRACTOR
 
BIGmouthinDC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 20,728
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 235 Post(s)
Liked: 583
large conduit (1 1/2 - 2 inches) from the equipment area to the projector location is part of a future proofing strategy for future cable swap outs. The cult of the "run a conduit to projector" has a segment that says install your first cables outside conduit and leave the conduit for future traffic.
BIGmouthinDC is online now  
post #27 of 37 Old 04-29-2014, 09:07 AM
Newbie
 
Buster3669's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 8
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
What would be the benefit of running the first HDMI cable outside the conduit?
Buster3669 is offline  
post #28 of 37 Old 04-29-2014, 10:34 AM
HOME THEATER CONTRACTOR
 
BIGmouthinDC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 20,728
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 235 Post(s)
Liked: 583
They think it keeps the conduit wide open for future uses, I don't subscribe to that cult's beliefs myself.
BIGmouthinDC is online now  
post #29 of 37 Old 04-29-2014, 11:00 AM
AVS Special Member
 
jautor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 7,843
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 148 Post(s)
Liked: 356
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

They think it keeps the conduit wide open for future uses, I don't subscribe to that cult's beliefs myself.

Curious... There's no 'belief'' involved - having the conduit empty makes future cable runs (at least the first one) much easier. What benefit do you see by placing cables in the conduit at the start? Granted, one or even "a few" wires in a sufficiently large-ish conduit won't make future runs too difficult, but it won't be as simple.

Although, assuming the wire you're replacing is obsolete, you can use it as an industrial-strength pull string. biggrin.gif

Rock Creek Theater -- CIH, Panamorph, Martin Logan, SVS PB2000, Carada Masquerade, Grafik Eye, Bar table, Green Glue, JVC RS50 
Theater build photos: http://photobucket.com/autor-ht

jautor is online now  
post #30 of 37 Old 04-29-2014, 11:21 AM
AVS Special Member
 
cw5billwade's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: GA
Posts: 1,276
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 97 Post(s)
Liked: 107
Quote:
Originally Posted by denalixxx View Post

I want to install a av rack for theater components in exterior wall so its
flush mounted, not sure if i need to have foundation the size would be roughly...
30 in x 30 in and want a access door to get to the rear ... should i frame and
drywall as normal room ? what bout floor ... desperate and confused ....on my project
I would take a look around at houses that have a fire place bump out or even a bath room bump out where the tub sticks out further than the house. They generally have a 45 degree roof that is shingled similar to the house. I would over size it and use a quality 30” to 36” solid exterior pre hung door like BIG recommended to Buster. If exterior walls are 16” on center which they should be you will need to span 2 stud cavities so we are already at 32” so an exterior room that is 44” wide x 30” deep (interior) would not be too bad this will give you room to work in there and better Air circulation. You will need to do a header just like framing a door or window like mentioned above. You will also want to dig footer and just go ahead and poor a slab. There is no way you can bust a hole in the side of the house add a room and put that room on cinder blocks do a slab and build the entire bump walls out of cinder blocks is a different story.
Example of rack splitting to stud cavities and a header going over the door to my theater


Quote:
Originally Posted by Buster3669 View Post

I have a very similar question.

I how do I frame in a middle Atlantic rack (Slim 5 29U version) that will be flush mounted to my media room and protrude into the attic. The attic is very accessible and allows easy access to the back of the rack.

Options I can think of:

1. completely frame a cutout with drywall, insulation and everything else (essential make the square footage of the house larger). This will require me to pull the rack out to access the connections of everything.

2. attach plywood (or another suitable alternative) to the rack on all sides and make a hinged door of some kind for back access. This option essentially forgoes drywall and allows easy access to the back of the rack.

Concerns: fire and electrical code compliance, a professionally look and access to the rack without pulling it out of the wall.

Please help

Brian
I would do a combination of the 2. I think that you need to just build another room in the attic frame it out make sure the sub floor matches up to the existing floor and then get an pre hung exterior door like BIG stated. All of my attic access doors are solid core pre hung exterior doors so I think this would be no different. Depending on how much power you need you may need to pull a few 20 AMP circuits from the breaker box or put in an additional 100 Amp panel. If this rack and access door are in the sound proof room you will have to treat this new room as an extension and sound proof it as well
cw5billwade is online now  
Reply Dedicated Theater Design & Construction

Tags
Samsung Blu Ray Player , Yamaha Rx V671 Receiver
Gear in this thread - V671 by PriceGrabber.com

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off