How to Run Power from opposite side of home ? - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 30 Old 07-02-2013, 11:37 AM - Thread Starter
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No basement and crawl space its on slab out in hot as hell vegas 118 Right now !!! So i need to run dedicated power from of course
other side of home to Soon to be AV rack in the exterior wall ... is it simple as conduit 6 inches underground along side of home ? Any tips would be
greatly appreciated ... thanks this site kicks ass. .....
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post #2 of 30 Old 07-02-2013, 12:41 PM
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Is there an attic?

I think 6 in. deep is too shallow. Not sure what code is, but 6 in. would be too easy to hit with a shovel.

I would run a feeder for about a 60 amp subpanel for your theater, while you are at it. Power everything in the room off the subpanel. This helps with grounding, too -- short rns to a common ground point in your panel.


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post #3 of 30 Old 07-03-2013, 06:19 AM
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1 or 2 story? 2 story going to lower level will need a closet someplace.

If one story there is access through your trusses ... it is a royal bitch however, but doable. Pick a cloudy day and very early AM ... can be 130° in there. You can run a #10/3 from you main distribution panel to the other side and drop it into a 30 amp - 4 circuit panel (cheap at Hone Depot). Vegas likely has block stucco construction with a 3/4" rigid insulation on the interior, 3/4" furring strip and Sheetrock. It will be quite difficult to fish that wire down in the wall. If you have a cabinet or the rack is in a closet affair or goes to the ceiling then you can just drop a 3/4" conduit down to it for your wire.

If you think you may want in the future more power then I would use a #10/3 w/ground and pull a 220V circuit plus a neutral and a separate ground. If you only want 115V then all you need is the #10/3. Depending on the exterior location you can also put a hole through the wall and add an outside electrical box if it would be handy. That would need a GFI breaker on it, not a bad idea to have it on your electronics too.

You will need a permit ... unless you won't get caught later. If you hire it done they will do it right and get a permit too == $$$$

Buried conduit around perimeter of home ... not a great solution. I believe that would require 24" depth. At that point I'd rent a small trencher from Home Depot.
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post #4 of 30 Old 07-03-2013, 07:23 AM
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6" is definitely too shallow. Check with your local building officials, but I don't think you need to bury the cable if you don't have another reason to do. If your code permits, you can wrap the conduit around your house like the pic below.
Please use caution when doing this. Electricity is not something to take lightly. Locally there was guy that installed an outdoor outlet on his house without a permit. He did it wrong and it burned his house down. I don't think anyone was hurt thankfully. Also your homeowner’s policy will likely not cover any damage caused by non-permitted remodels.



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post #5 of 30 Old 07-03-2013, 08:42 AM - Thread Starter
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Ok here is the set up I will do my best to show you my delima ---
1st pic is location of rack from rear (Far right side of house)

2 pic is backyard IM facing house
3 pic is left side of house as we near the power panel

Ok and here it is ....
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post #6 of 30 Old 07-03-2013, 08:46 AM - Thread Starter
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Here is pic of interior lookin up at ceiling (Attic stops and zero room to run wire)
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post #7 of 30 Old 07-03-2013, 09:05 AM
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That's tough. So here's what I would do and take this with a grain of salt. Find an electrician that offers free estimates. Have him come out and tell him what you want done but let him figure out path of least resistance. Do take a look at his quote too. It might not be as bad as you think and would be a lot easier/safer to have him do it. You're step-dad might even know a couple guys that could work a deal for you.

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post #8 of 30 Old 07-03-2013, 10:26 AM - Thread Starter
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I am comfortable with running the conduit the way the image is showing pic is worth million words I really dont want to do it but
i will , question why is it in "metal" conduit not pvc ? is it just for standing up to weather ? and its gonna cost $$$ for a 150 foot run .....
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post #9 of 30 Old 07-03-2013, 10:30 AM - Thread Starter
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can i run the conduit like this for partial run ? should be able to right ? theres no home owners ass ...
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post #10 of 30 Old 07-03-2013, 10:36 AM
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Calling a guy for a free estimate to scam information is BS. People make their living with their time and nothing more.
Rigid metal conduit is required up 4' because of physical damage. Rocks from mowers, animals, etc. EMT (metal and would be OK) conduit is NOT expensive ... maybe 20 cents a foot.

I would run the line in the attic and then drop straight down on the outside through the soffit (which is not closed in - crummy) down the wall with a 3/4" conduit to an outside weatherproof receptacle (GFI). Then go through the wall to your eq. rack. A #12/3 w/ground (romex is OK) is all you need and run a 220V circuit. Split it at the outside box (11Black/white to outside receptacle and red/white to inside and ground to both. 20 amps is a LOT of power.

Do like I do ... send the wife on the attic crawl part of the mission while you carefully supervise from outside awaiting her arrival at the soffit location! Of course you are responsible for shinning a light in the end to assist her navigation! Actually, I'm ashamed to admit that I just did that 6 weeks ago ... LOL. She did great; I tied the wire to her pant loop so she had both hands free ... hahahaah, I'm so thoughtful. I also let her use my headlamp so she could see, you need that. She is pretty small (comparatively) so it was not too bad .... I would have never made it. It is tight but doable for sure and here in FL it is hot too. I installed a second mini-split into my den and had to get power to it. Be careful as it will be 130° in there and you need to be out in 15 minutes or so ... pick a cool morning , get up early before the sun start to bake it.

Your breaker box is not outside ... it is inside someplace and that is where you will get the power AFTER the breaker. If you don't know how then do not mess with it - get help. Use a GFI breaker. Attach the conduit with single straps (preferably metal) using Tapcon screws into the stucco/block. One clip every 4 feet or so.

Paint the conduit the same color as the house ... won't be noticeable at all.

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post #11 of 30 Old 07-03-2013, 11:07 AM - Thread Starter
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Thats Awesome !!! Im not going in attic its 116 as of now !!! but shes always poking around and million questions and bla bla bla so i will
let her "help" !!! question .... this is the power box right ? i know theres a "correct term" but im sweating my ass off as i take this pic ...hold on


You saying theres another place in my house to get power from ? other then this panel which is outside
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post #12 of 30 Old 07-03-2013, 11:30 AM - Thread Starter
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I looked everywhere this is the only panel i could find maybe the setup is diff due to location ? codes and all that good stuff ??
either way i like the att idea however the panel is on the garage wall and its actually shorter distance to just snake along the house in
metal conduit ....
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post #13 of 30 Old 07-03-2013, 11:35 AM
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Um yeah, your panel is way to full to ad another breaker. You're going to need some help on this one.

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post #14 of 30 Old 07-03-2013, 11:39 AM - Thread Starter
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I can run the conduit and get the wiring done then my step dad will be back in few days .....
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post #15 of 30 Old 07-03-2013, 11:58 AM
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Well slap me stupid then. never have I seen the main distribution panel (load center) on the exterior of a building ,,,, Only the main disconnect for the fire department mostly. That is some sloppy work by whoever installed it. I bet it will look like chit when you pull the cover off instead of being neatly dressed up.

You have one other issue ... only one hole left and that dictates only one 120v SP circuit. A work around is to use a mini breaker like the two in the center and then move the two top left circuits to it. That frees two holes for 220V. If you don't want the outside plug then a non issue and use a #12/2 w/ground wire. You could get away with 1/2" conduit as well. I think as a safety I would use a GFI breaker in there too ... cost a few $$ but very safe if there comes a moisture issue or a ground fault.

For my money I would go the extra mile and make the run in the attic space. Since your load center (that is what it is called) is surface mounted just a stub up into the space with a short conduit, across the way you go and then down the other side. You can slide the stub for the LC panel on after the wire is run.

In the alternate, can't tell from the pic., you could stub up and run the conduit concealed on the back side of the soffit. That can all be PVC then.

You notice on mine that I I came into the side and bottom of the local disconnect for the A/C. That way I did not need a waterproof hub fitting (you will to come out the top) - cheap $2.

98° here and 80% humidity (normal) ... you got it nice!

OK ... you have all the info you need. Make a decision and go for it. Post back with the results and proof of purchase ... LOL Pictures!

EMT is the thin metal conduit by the PVC stuff. Fittings are special as well and you will need a bender ... $15 or so.
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post #16 of 30 Old 07-03-2013, 12:03 PM
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Standing in front of house ... where is breaker and where does the power need to go? Picture?

Driveway or what are the issues?

Very easy to jet a conduit under the driveway. I do that all the time ... takes 30 minutes or so.
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post #17 of 30 Old 07-03-2013, 12:24 PM - Thread Starter
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i will get u pics in 3 mins
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post #18 of 30 Old 07-03-2013, 12:25 PM - Thread Starter
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under driveway?
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post #19 of 30 Old 07-03-2013, 12:40 PM - Thread Starter
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post #20 of 30 Old 07-03-2013, 12:51 PM
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Hard to see but I put one under my driveway which is 18' wide in less than an hour. Very simple and only takes water. I made a 6 foot long trench on the entry side to make it easy then a 2' ditch on the exit. I was installing sprinklers. If you are handy then you should not have trouble with it..

Google search jet under dirveway

Example http://www.sprinklerwarehouse.com/DIY-How-to-dig-under-a-pathway-s/6560.htm

You could jet it under the drive then trench it into the final location from there. If you're not worried about the future you can rent a small trencher for $50 or so and finish the job easily. Only put it down 12" or si ... in conduit for sure.
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post #21 of 30 Old 07-03-2013, 12:53 PM
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Also a caution. That is the power transformer sitting there and there is a buried service cable from it to your meter ... cut that then in deep poop. Call Miss Piggie for a locate first ... it is free. The if cut they pay.
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post #22 of 30 Old 07-03-2013, 01:20 PM
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Exterior integrated meter can / load centers are very common out here in California. But then the weather is relatively mild.


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post #23 of 30 Old 07-03-2013, 01:42 PM - Thread Starter
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thanks for the info i am going to this HT built !
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post #24 of 30 Old 07-03-2013, 08:40 PM
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I suggest you discuss this new power run with your in-law electrician, before starting.

You're going to be cutting up your drywall for speaker cables, anyway. Take it across the attic, cut the ceiling drywall, and cut the drywall above the rack cutout. Put a small sub panel in the rack location.

Run some category cables too, for a hardwired LAN connection in the rack, and coax for cable/satellite.

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post #25 of 30 Old 07-03-2013, 09:23 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LeBon View Post

Is there an attic?

I think 6 in. deep is too shallow. Not sure what code is, but 6 in. would be too easy to hit with a shovel.

I would run a feeder for about a 60 amp subpanel for your theater, while you are at it. Power everything in the room off the subpanel. This helps with grounding, too -- short rns to a common ground point in your panel.
Guess you have never tried to dig in the soil in Vegas. You need a Jackhammer and sometimes C-4 to get through it.
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post #26 of 30 Old 07-03-2013, 10:31 PM
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Yeah, I live on decomposed granite...a pinch bar and a pickaxe are helpful.


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post #27 of 30 Old 07-03-2013, 11:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Ya gonna be going thru the attic then down the wall and outside ...
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post #28 of 30 Old 07-04-2013, 09:30 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LeBon View Post

Yeah, I live on decomposed granite...a pinch bar and a pickaxe are helpful.
You left out a whole lot of muscle, and a few six packs. Hate digging through anything that pays you back for when you want to do a project that involves digging. Now of course there is always the mini-bobcats with a cutting wheel, that would also work.

I have to deal with Soft Maples in my backyard, and getting through the roots, along with my whole backyard is fill from when we had the old coal mines in operation in our area, it is just as bad as both of you have to deal with. I would rather have the soil in some of the other parts of our county, that you can dig through it like a hot knife through butter, then what I have in my property.
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post #29 of 30 Old 07-05-2013, 11:35 AM
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NEC requires 18in deep. Now any state or locality can make exceptions, either shallower or deeper, but 18in is pretty standard.

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post #30 of 30 Old 07-05-2013, 08:51 PM
 
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If you cannot get down that deep, you are allowed in some circumstances to create a concrete pad over the conduit to protect it. Then you end up with concrete and no dirt. Really in some areas such as Vegas and places where you have to basically blast or use a jack hammer to get deep enough, you have to end up thinking outside the box to get the project done.
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