Is there really any point in soundproofing? Is it a scam? Help me gain clarity please !!! - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 85 Old 07-02-2013, 05:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Ok- First let me preface by saying I love this forum and I am very thankful for the information I've learned thus far in my quest to design my dedicated theater. I have the utmost respect for all the members here, including the professionals. I apologize in advance if I am too "NOOB" to understand the full picture just yet. Also- I don't think sound proofing is a scam wink.gif but rather used harsh words to garner attention. Perhaps that is wrong. But I need some serious help.

That said- I have many questions about the sound proofing aspect and I can't seem to fully understand it all.

It seems there is an inordinate amount of time, effort and budget dedicated to "sound proofing" but I can't for the life of me understand why. My fear is I am really an idiot and don't get it yet- so I am hoping if that's true someone will kindly aware me.

Here is what I think I know:

Soundproofing is methods employed to keep sound from entering your theater or leaving it. The goal can be to bring down the noise floor inside the theater, or to minimize the sound generated by your theater from bothering others. Yes?

Ok I am proceeding with the idea I understand the purpose of soundproofing, and I also understand it's different than acoustical treatments aimed at improving the quality of audio inside your theater by absorbing or minimizing unwanted frequencies or noise. My issue is I fully understand and value the purpose of acoustical treatments- but totally fail to grasp or value sound proofing.

My situation: (Try to give me advice from my shoes please)

I am designing a theater on a rather limited budget; It is new construction, second floor build above a new 2 car garage. The house is existing but also being remodeled in the project. (I own a cape style and we are removing the roof and doing a full second floor, and a 12 foot extension on the second floor off the back of the house all in addition to adding the garage and theater. I have the ability to go staggered studs if needed, or even clips and channels- or even both wink.gif but I can't really afford them. As much as I can not afford them, I fear the mistake of not doing it and regretting it down the road.

Background: I am fully invested into making the room and theater sound as good as possible and I am willing to go the extra mile or spend extra to achieve this. I do not want to be limited by my room later on when I can afford higher end gear. I plan to have this theater for 30 years. I'm never going to get a shot at redoing the room (dimensions) and tearing down to the studs is unlikely to happen for a decade or more for a refresh. While I care about the sound quality extremely - I do not care if sound escapes the theater. I don't really care much at all. I do , however, care if sound pollutes my theater and thus I am more interested in bringing down the noise floor for this reason. Perhaps I am more purist in these regards- and less considerate as a husband and father of my family tongue.gif but I just do not understand or see the issue with sound proofing. I don't worry about sound leaving the theater and bothering people.

The kids rooms are on the total opposite side of the house. The garage is being built on the far right side of the house, and the kids rooms are on the far outside left of the house. The sound would have to go through my master bedroom, closets, stairs and bathrooms to reach the kids. I just doubt it would be significant enough to wake them up or bother them. I doubt my theater will make as much noise going at reference levels to bother the kids inside their rooms given the location of my theater is as far away as possible from them as perhaps a normal living room TV would make just down the hall in a normal house situation. Am I underestimating things? Or not seeing something ?

My wife is amazing. I currently have a projector and drop down screen in my bedroom now. Yes, the bedroom I sleep in every night biggrin.gif I also have 7.2 system with dual 12" subs, Polk Audio speakers and a Denon AVR3312IC. I watched the new Die Hard movie with Bruce Willis last night on "-20" on the Denon (it's kinda loud and shakes the room at this volume ) and my wife was sleeping!!! Seriously- I am not kidding. eek.gif She just sleeps easy, falls asleep early and does not seem to care too much when I stay up a few more hours watching TV. And this is in the same room !!!!! I know she is weird, and I never had this with other girlfriends before her. My wife is awesome at being a good sport and a heavy sleeper. It's been this way for a few years so I doubt it's going to change much. For this reason sound proofing for her is less important- she's likely to be watching with me or so sleepy that it won't matter. She loves to watch with me, she just always falls asleep.

So I'm open to the idea my situation is more unique or perhaps I am luckier with my wife than others. If so, I'll just count my blessings and skip some of the extreme extra costs of sound proofing. If I am failing to understand something here that is critical I am hoping someone can aware me. I am willing to do things right- and if that means I need to soundproof then I will.

On a scale of 1-10 with 10 being the most important:

Score:
2 /10 - Sound proofing to keep sound inside the theater leaving the theater and bothering others
6 / 10 - Sound proofing to keep sound from entering the theater or raising my noise floor
11 / 10 - Sound quality and experience inside the theater
11 / 10 - Getting the most bang for my buck and maximizing value
8 / 10 - Staying within modest and limited budget of $10,000 (excluding electronics)

My hearing sucks. I went to the ear doctor and I have Tinnitus in both ears and my hearing is below average. My father is 65 and can't hear very well. I will be like him someday. Doctor told me it's only going to get worse. Given this- I don't need an extreme low noise floor- but having a low noise floor and proper acoustic treatments should aid my ability to hear the sound tracks in movies. It's noisy echo environments like a noisy restaurant with clanking forks and chatter that I struggle most with. In a nice sound treated place I can hear perfectly fine. My favorite bar has acoustic panels on the ceilings and I can always hear conversation there. Another bar down the street does not- and has hard wood surfaces and ceilings and I can't hear anything. I can notice the difference easily and thus I am sold on sound treating my room and doing acoustic panel fabric walls.

Since my planned theater has 3 out of 4 walls as outside walls- and the floor is above the garage and the attic above the theater is not going to be a common attic with the rest of my home (peaks go opposite directions ) I am wondering should I really spend the money on clips and channels ? Or do staggered studs ???

I was planning or hoping I could do staggered studs only on the one common wall between the theater and the house. Yes? Or pointless? I've had people tell me I really need to do it all or don't bother doing any when it comes to sound proofing. I've read the articles at the sound proofing company. (Excellent resource BTW biggrin.gif ) I think I understand "flanking" and why that is said so often. But I just don't fully believe it applies to my circumstance. If sound leaves through the floor and goes down it pollutes my garage. (Don't care) It would have to then enter into the existing kitchen and then up into the second floor bedrooms to become a worry for me. I'm doubting the sound will carry that far and that loud- wouldn't it lose power and get quieter as it travels through each room and surface materials ? Would it carry that far ??? The Attic is also not common or connected- the peak of the garage and theater run side to side and the peak on the house will run front to back- I am not planning peak ceiling in the theater but 10 foot walls on sides and going up to a flat 12 foot in the center of room for a star ceiling. Basically building a soffit into the design but going up in the center instead of going down on the edges. Would a non common attic space be a concern ? Lastly- If I did stagger stud the whole room it would keep sound from going out the walls into the yard.... right ? I live in a quiet neighborhood. I am the second to last house on a dead end street. There is never airplanes, or traffic outside. I hear crickets at night when I go outside but inside my house now I hear nothing. My house is quiet generally minus noise humans make inside it. My lawn does not care if I wake it up watching a movie biggrin.gif I am doubting there is much noise entering the theater given my circumstances- but I am far more open to preventing sound from entering than I am from preventing it escaping. In matters of importance- I think keeping the sound quality in the room is more important. And I doubt flanking would be an issue because the sound would need to go out the room (outside walls ) and somehow come back into the house ??? How's that going to happen ? It seems a non issue IMO. (but again I could be wrong )

So my dilemma,

Do I spend all the extra money on clips and channels, GG, staggered studs and double DW just because everyone's doing it or says I should even though in my heart I don't believe in it ? (Or better said: I believe in it, but it's not going to benefit my situation as much and I can't really afford it anyways )

Or,

Do I do some and not all ? Where is the sweet spot in value ? Can I get away with just doing staggered studs and skipping clips and channels and double DW ??? Or do I just do double DW ?? What is the best bang for the buck ? Can I just do the common wall ? Should I do staggered studs and GG+DD only on the common wall ? Where is the best blend of value and budget balancing ??


Time for questions:

What is more effective for my new construction theater if I had to choose only 1 - Staggered studs or Clips and Channels ? What is the difference in cost? Which is the better value ?

What is the difference in performance between Staggered studs with single layer versus normal studs with double DW+GG ?
What is the difference in performance of Staggered Studs versus clips and channel ? Does doing DD and GG matter much with either ?
What is the difference in performance between double wall (two sets of studs )with only 1 layer DW versus single stud wall and GG+ Double DW ?

I am trying to determine what is the best solution for my needs. I am obviously not sold on sound proofing and I am failing to see why it is important in my situation. Please do not base your comments on your situation or the fact you have kids next door to your theater or a wife bitching about it. Try to give me an honest answer and put yourself in my shoes. Should I bother spending all the cash (at the expense of other stuff) on sound proofing. Every penny I spend on sound proofing is money I can't spend on aesthetics or sound treatments, DIY speakers, fancy trim or nicer theater chairs. I'm not counting any electronic gear in my budget like amps or projectors. (I own some gear I will start with, and I'll be upgrading always. I've been buying this stuff for 20 years already, I remember my first pro-logic receiver and center channel speaker smile.gif )

I've got some awesome plans for wood working, stage, screen, wet bar area and such. There is so much I am excited about. Sound proofing would compete with these things on budget, time and resources. So if I do it- I need to believe in it. Is it really worth it ? What advice do you have for me?

-

"Too much is almost enough. Anything in life worth doing is worth overdoing. Moderation is for cowards."
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post #2 of 85 Old 07-02-2013, 06:54 PM
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Two things from my experience seem relevant here.

First, I think you and I agree and have similar priorities in wanting to get it right the first time. I've spent more than 18 months on demo and rebuild, and I still don't have a room in my house - I certainly don't want to do this again. That alone was motivation enough for me to get as much isolation as possible. My theater stands on concrete and does not touch the rest of my house - eventually, drywall on the outside of the walls will marginally link the outside of a staggered stud wall to the ceiling in the next room. You see what I mean?

Second, my whole house hums with the air handler in the attic. The spin cycle on the washer can be very loud, all over the place. I don't want to hear any of that - at all. If I can't set the dishwasher or start a load of laundry and go enjoy a movie while it runs, I'll be very disappointed.

The biggest issue, from my understanding, is getting good decoupling. You can add mass later (drywall) if you need, and only have to redo the paint and trim, extend any wall boxes - and that's it. Demo is a non-starter for me. So, if you can build decoupled walls, that shouldn't cost much more. If you don't want to pay for GG or extra drywall up front, then don't. But you should, IMO, pay attention to noise from mechanical systems in your house, and what can be transmitted through the ducts.

Related: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1169057/measuring-dynamic-range-in-movies


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post #3 of 85 Old 07-02-2013, 08:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mfusick View Post

My wife is amazing. I currently have a projector and drop down screen in my bedroom now. Yes, the bedroom I sleep in every night biggrin.gif I also have 7.2 system with dual 12" subs, Polk Audio speakers and a Denon AVR3312IC. I watched the new Die Hard movie with Bruce Willis last night on "-20" on the Denon (it's kinda loud and shakes the room at this volume ) and my wife was sleeping!!! Seriously- I am not kidding. eek.gif

Trust me when I say that your wife was not sleeping during Die Hard at -20. She was simply figuring out the best way to dispose of your body while her eyes were closed. wink.gif Do you really want to provide this woman with a soundproof room?? Are you giving her the chainsaw and a woodchipper too?
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post #4 of 85 Old 07-02-2013, 08:33 PM
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Don't think the efficacy of sound containment should be in question. Think the consensus and testimony from those who have done soundproofing/containment in the GG/DD decoupled method is that, for the most part, it works as advertised. Sounds to me like your question is really is it necessary or worth it for me? Nobody can answer that for you. I am with Fred. At least decouple the main wall to start.

You can demo and add mass later if you feel the need. Unless, of course you are a perfectionist . . .
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post #5 of 85 Old 07-02-2013, 08:38 PM
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It may be time to recommend the Layout Service.

 

 

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post #6 of 85 Old 07-02-2013, 08:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

Trust me when I say that your wife was not sleeping during Die Hard at -20. She was simply figuring out the best way to dispose of your body while her eyes were closed. wink.gif Do you really want to provide this woman with a soundproof room?? Are you giving her the chainsaw and a woodchipper too?

I'd like to thank you for the greatest quote I've ever read on this site in the 12 years I've been visiting.
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post #7 of 85 Old 07-02-2013, 09:02 PM
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Build the room right the first time. You can always upgrade electronics or seating, changing the room later will be EXPENSIVE! A layout service will definitely save you time and headaches later. I wish I would have done it instead of hours and hours of engineering things as I went. Some I got right and some should have been done different.

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post #8 of 85 Old 07-03-2013, 02:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mfusick View Post

Do I spend all the extra money on clips and channels, GG, staggered studs and double DW just because everyone's doing it or says I should even though in my heart I don't believe in it ? (Or better said: I believe in it, but it's not going to benefit my situation as much and I can't really afford it anyways )
What advice do you have for me?


skip it, it won't be much trouble to rebuild the theater later.
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post #9 of 85 Old 07-03-2013, 05:22 AM
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I skipped it. My regret is not having mass on the walls. Noise, incoming or outgoing has not been. But my walls are ''active participants' and I wish they weren't.

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post #10 of 85 Old 07-03-2013, 05:32 AM
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Considering your hearing issues, and your focus on sound quality in the room, have you considered using headphones (wireless or corded)? With good headphones you would save a lot of effort and reduce your sound floor dramatically. I personally couldn't use them, but it's something to consider.

I too am on a tight budget, finishing my entire basement in addition to the theater. I too really considered just doing a "normal" room and not worrying about sound isolation. Then I realized that this house is going to be where I live for a long time, and that the odds of me being able to afford the time and money to redo stuff down the road is nil. So I'm going a bit slower than I'd like, (due to financial constraints) but doing it the way I think is right for my case. I don't see the isolation efforts as adding too much cost to my entire project, especially since I'm doing so much of the work myself. GG, clips, and drywall aren't that expensive, heck, sheetrock is $9 a board?

But it's your project. That's hard with the group here, because we seem to attract the OCD types (I fall into that category) who obsess over every detail. You need to feel comfortable with what you're doing, embrace your decision, and then get it moving.
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post #11 of 85 Old 07-03-2013, 05:46 AM
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The kids rooms are on the total opposite side of the house. The garage is being built on the far right side of the house, and the kids rooms are on the far outside left of the house. The sound would have to go through my master bedroom, closets, stairs and bathrooms to reach the kids. I just doubt it would be significant enough to wake them up or bother them. I doubt my theater will make as much noise going at reference levels to bother the kids inside their rooms given the location of my theater is as far away as possible from them as perhaps a normal living room TV would make just down the hall in a normal house situation. Am I underestimating things? Or not seeing something ?

Dennis Erskine has posted in numerous other threads regarding the totally unexpected ways in which sound can travel thoughout a house. Unfortunately, the only way you will be able to convince yourself is to have the additon built without any soundproofing and see how it goes. You know what your experience is now, but you don't know what your experience will be with the new addition. Basically, you take a chance that it MIGHT be OK.

I can say that in my case, with an open concept room in the basement, I can hear the HVAC fan running in my master bath two flights up, but not in the basement. I can also hear water running in other parts of the house in that same bathroom (side note, that's how I just yesterday realized that my sprinkler timer did not shut off when it was supposed to). In my family room directly above the theater, I can hear the sump pump go off, but can't hear in the basement. When my wife plays the stereo in the master bedroom, with the bedroom door closed I can hear it in the garage directly below, but not walking down the stairs right next to the room.

Dennis has spoken of cases exactly like yours in which the sound is louder two flights up at the far end of the house than it is in the room right next to or above the theater. As mentioned by other repsonses, it's a bitch to go back and redo if you don't like the results. I think that you will find that in the grand scheme of things, the cost to at least double stud is minimal and if you talk to the guys at the soundproofing company, the cost for clips and GG is not as significant as you think. If you decouple the walls, you would only need clips and channel on the ceiling.

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post #12 of 85 Old 07-03-2013, 07:11 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HopefulFred View Post

Two things from my experience seem relevant here.

First, I think you and I agree and have similar priorities in wanting to get it right the first time. I've spent more than 18 months on demo and rebuild, and I still don't have a room in my house - I certainly don't want to do this again. That alone was motivation enough for me to get as much isolation as possible. My theater stands on concrete and does not touch the rest of my house - eventually, drywall on the outside of the walls will marginally link the outside of a staggered stud wall to the ceiling in the next room. You see what I mean?

Second, my whole house hums with the air handler in the attic. The spin cycle on the washer can be very loud, all over the place. I don't want to hear any of that - at all. If I can't set the dishwasher or start a load of laundry and go enjoy a movie while it runs, I'll be very disappointed.

The biggest issue, from my understanding, is getting good decoupling. You can add mass later (drywall) if you need, and only have to redo the paint and trim, extend any wall boxes - and that's it. Demo is a non-starter for me. So, if you can build decoupled walls, that shouldn't cost much more. If you don't want to pay for GG or extra drywall up front, then don't. But you should, IMO, pay attention to noise from mechanical systems in your house, and what can be transmitted through the ducts.

Related: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1169057/measuring-dynamic-range-in-movies



Hi,

Thanks for great reply.

I think you understand where I am coming from and have some great advice.

Are you suggesting I stagger stud and single DW ?

-

"Too much is almost enough. Anything in life worth doing is worth overdoing. Moderation is for cowards."
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post #13 of 85 Old 07-03-2013, 07:14 AM - Thread Starter
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It may be time to recommend the Layout Service.

Almost there smile.gif

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"Too much is almost enough. Anything in life worth doing is worth overdoing. Moderation is for cowards."
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post #14 of 85 Old 07-03-2013, 07:15 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by BroncoSport View Post

Build the room right the first time. You can always upgrade electronics or seating, changing the room later will be EXPENSIVE! A layout service will definitely save you time and headaches later. I wish I would have done it instead of hours and hours of engineering things as I went. Some I got right and some should have been done different.

I agree

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post #15 of 85 Old 07-03-2013, 07:25 AM
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I live in the flight path of a military and civilian airport. We get very large miltary jets and helicopters flying directly over our house. I also live about 300 yards from a 55 mph highway, and occasionally loud harleys or construction trucks will drive by. We've noticed upstairs that with the air conditioner running we can't hear dialog at -25 well, but with it off it's totally clear. Keeping noise OUT is important. Keeping noise IN is important too, because I have a little kid, a wife who sometimes doesn't want to watch something, and neighbors that are close by. I like to listen to things loud. I enjoy movies more at -10 than I do at -30.

Is soundproofing a scam? I guess that's up to you to decide. Most people I know with "theaters" complain about how loud it is in other parts of the home.


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post #16 of 85 Old 07-03-2013, 08:00 AM - Thread Starter
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I know. ^

I get it. I'm just looking for advice for me. I don't have Harley's or planes. I'm dead end street in suburbs. My theater is far away from dishwasher or wash machine.

I'm just wondering of its worth it for me. I know it's worth it for others. I'm trying to see if there is something I'm not seeing or I don't understand.

I'm probably going to do something but wondering how serious I need to get given my circumstances, And I'm looking for recommendations based on maximum value.

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post #17 of 85 Old 07-03-2013, 08:05 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tony123 View Post

I skipped it. My regret is not having mass on the walls. Noise, incoming or outgoing has not been. But my walls are ''active participants' and I wish they weren't.

My walls will be wood working on bottom (like Mario's cinemar ) and fabric on upper two thirds I think. I'm thinking for sure proper acoustic treatments.

Is that change things ? Or do I need double DD+GG just for sound quality inside the room ?

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post #18 of 85 Old 07-03-2013, 08:08 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

skip it, it won't be much trouble to rebuild the theater later.

Your sarcasm shows you understand the problem I'm facing. While I chuckled, your reply certainly reinforces the idea I want to do it right and don't want to have to do it again.

While I don't think I need it . I'd hate to skip and regret it. The fact I also can't afford it is a secondary problem that doesn't help.

I can't afford it all. What the best value for me?

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post #19 of 85 Old 07-03-2013, 08:11 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by greedo View Post

Considering your hearing issues, and your focus on sound quality in the room, have you considered using headphones (wireless or corded)? With good headphones you would save a lot of effort and reduce your sound floor dramatically. I personally couldn't use them, but it's something to consider.

I too am on a tight budget, finishing my entire basement in addition to the theater. I too really considered just doing a "normal" room and not worrying about sound isolation. Then I realized that this house is going to be where I live for a long time, and that the odds of me being able to afford the time and money to redo stuff down the road is nil. So I'm going a bit slower than I'd like, (due to financial constraints) but doing it the way I think is right for my case. I don't see the isolation efforts as adding too much cost to my entire project, especially since I'm doing so much of the work myself. GG, clips, and drywall aren't that expensive, heck, sheetrock is $9 a board?

But it's your project. That's hard with the group here, because we seem to attract the OCD types (I fall into that category) who obsess over every detail. You need to feel comfortable with what you're doing, embrace your decision, and then get it moving.


I'm in the OCD crowd smile.gif That's why I'm worrying about this issue.

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post #20 of 85 Old 07-03-2013, 08:14 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by tlogan6797 View Post

Dennis Erskine has posted in numerous other threads regarding the totally unexpected ways in which sound can travel thoughout a house. Unfortunately, the only way you will be able to convince yourself is to have the additon built without any soundproofing and see how it goes. You know what your experience is now, but you don't know what your experience will be with the new addition. Basically, you take a chance that it MIGHT be OK.

I can say that in my case, with an open concept room in the basement, I can hear the HVAC fan running in my master bath two flights up, but not in the basement. I can also hear water running in other parts of the house in that same bathroom (side note, that's how I just yesterday realized that my sprinkler timer did not shut off when it was supposed to). In my family room directly above the theater, I can hear the sump pump go off, but can't hear in the basement. When my wife plays the stereo in the master bedroom, with the bedroom door closed I can hear it in the garage directly below, but not walking down the stairs right next to the room.

Dennis has spoken of cases exactly like yours in which the sound is louder two flights up at the far end of the house than it is in the room right next to or above the theater. As mentioned by other repsonses, it's a bitch to go back and redo if you don't like the results. I think that you will find that in the grand scheme of things, the cost to at least double stud is minimal and if you talk to the guys at the soundproofing company, the cost for clips and GG is not as significant as you think. If you decouple the walls, you would only need clips and channel on the ceiling.


You make great points. I think I'm decided I should do something. I'm also decided I can't afford to do it all - so I'm looking for the best blend of performance and budget given my situation.

I'm looking to get the most value.

Given my circumstances make soundproofing less important - I am trying to figure out the best plan of attack.

suggestions for me anyone ?

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post #21 of 85 Old 07-03-2013, 08:52 AM
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MY suggestion would be:

1) Decouple the stud walls
2) Use clips and channel on the ceiling
3) Single layer of 5/8 drywall
4) Re-evaluate budget and add GG + 2nd layer 5/8s
IF you STILL can't do it,
5) Re-evaluate budget and forego in-room "nice to haves" and add as $$$ permit. Maybe start with fewer seats, cheaper carpet, etc.
6) IF you must, use single DW and add 2nd layer later as $$ permit, but PLAN for the 2nd layer by using adjustable boxes, etc.

Overall, my recomendation is to build the room properly and the rest wil take care of itself.

Tom Logan
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post #22 of 85 Old 07-03-2013, 09:09 AM
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How about putty pads for the outlets and backer boxes for the lights? If you were going to do those, definitely have to do them before the drywall goes up.

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post #23 of 85 Old 07-03-2013, 09:16 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by BllDo View Post

How about putty pads for the outlets and backer boxes for the lights? If you were going to do those, definitely have to do them before the drywall goes up.

I'd do anything that was not too expensive. It does not matter the effort or dificulty or time it takes. I am on my own schedule with this build wink.gif But it would hold up the dry wall guys.

My biggest issue is cost. That's why I am so stuck on this stuff. I don't want to skimp- but I can't afford to go all out. Since I have less need for soundproofing I am hoping I can go a high value route and be really happy without regrets.

That is the goal.

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post #24 of 85 Old 07-03-2013, 09:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mfusick 

Are you suggesting I stagger stud and single DW ?
I'm not sure what the best methods will be. For that, I'd ask Ted and John or post technical drawings so someone who knows the details of the options better can weigh in.

But, yes. Start with decoupling. Add mass as needed.


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post #25 of 85 Old 07-03-2013, 09:23 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tlogan6797 View Post

MY suggestion would be:

1) Decouple the stud walls
2) Use clips and channel on the ceiling
3) Single layer of 5/8 drywall
4) Re-evaluate budget and add GG + 2nd layer 5/8s
IF you STILL can't do it,
5) Re-evaluate budget and forego in-room "nice to haves" and add as $$$ permit. Maybe start with fewer seats, cheaper carpet, etc.
6) IF you must, use single DW and add 2nd layer later as $$ permit, but PLAN for the 2nd layer by using adjustable boxes, etc.

Overall, my recomendation is to build the room properly and the rest wil take care of itself.

What about not getting "loganed" ???

wink.gif

I love this advice and I agree with it. I was leaning towards staggered stud walls on all walls. The cost seems worth it just to be sure. $2.19 for a 2x4 biggrin.gif I will probably do a sound mat on the floor under the carpet that floats. I was going to leave the ceiling alone- but since you say this perhaps it's an option.

How much is clips and channel for a ceiling going to add in cost ? [ room is 34x24, 10ft ceiling on side walls- going up to 12ft in center - but ceiling is planned to be all flat and not peaked (since I guess peaked is not good for sound) ] My idea was to gain ceiling height by making my soffits into the design. So instead of going down on the sides, I'll go up in the center of the room. Make sense ?

I don't know if I understand clips and channel enough yet. Time to go do some reading. I understand decoupling and how they function- but I don't know if I know the installation process and procedures enough.

Thanks again for solid advice. Keep it all coming!!! I need this so I do it right.

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post #26 of 85 Old 07-03-2013, 09:35 AM
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I think you should get Loganed before you even start just for all these threads. wink.gif

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post #27 of 85 Old 07-03-2013, 09:38 AM
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I asked myself the same questions when starting my build. After evaluating our listening/viewing habits, the location of the theater relative to other noise sources, the distance to bedrooms, etc., we ultimately decided not to incorporate any soundproofing measures (besides adding insulation to the 2 interior walls of the theater). I'm perfectly happy. That being said, I have not had the opportunity to enjoy a movie in a properly designed, soundproof room so I have nothing to compare my experience to. All I can say is my room is very quiet, I've had no complaints from the neighbors, and I can watch movies at my normal listening volume while the kids sleep. At least in my particular situation, it was not worth the effort or expense to soundproof.

If budget is your only reason not to do it, I would recommend cutting or delaying costs on other items so you can get the room done right within your initial budget. Just understand that it needs to be an all or nothing approach. You need to decide ahead of time whether you are willing to go the distance with backer boxes, putty pads, acoustical caulk, door seals, etc. I would suggest giving Ted White a call. He will be able to evaluate your specific needs and determine the most economical approach for you.

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post #28 of 85 Old 07-03-2013, 09:42 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by BllDo View Post

I think you should get Loganed before you even start just for all these threads. wink.gif

I am like a hoover vacuum trying to suck down as much as I can. My build is going to start this summer and I am noob at this stuff (as you can tell ) I've only popped into this forum a bit in the past. Generally I am a quick learner and avid poster- so I apologize for my noobness and posting style tongue.gif Trying to cram as much as I can in and do it best I can. I'm very appreciative of the knowledge and advice of everyone. This is exactly what I need!

(I don't need to be Loganed already though eek.gif )

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post #29 of 85 Old 07-03-2013, 09:44 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

I asked myself the same questions when starting my build. After evaluating our listening/viewing habits, the location of the theater relative to other noise sources, the distance to bedrooms, etc., we ultimately decided not to incorporate any soundproofing measures (besides adding insulation to the 2 interior walls of the theater). I'm perfectly happy. That being said, I have not had the opportunity to enjoy a movie in a properly designed, soundproof room so I have nothing to compare my experience to. All I can say is my room is very quiet, I've had no complaints from the neighbors, and I can watch movies at my normal listening volume while the kids sleep. At least in my particular situation, it was not worth the effort or expense to soundproof.

If budget is your only reason not to do it, I would recommend cutting or delaying costs on other items so you can get the room done right within your initial budget. Just understand that it needs to be an all or nothing approach. You need to decide ahead of time whether you are willing to go the distance with backer boxes, putty pads, acoustical caulk, door seals, etc. I would suggest giving Ted White a call. He will be able to evaluate your specific needs and determine the most economical approach for you.

Great advice !! thank you!

One thing I am struggling with is understanding the true cost of soundproofing relative to it's real world value to me.

I don't even know if I understand how much clips and channel and GG will cost me yet. I'm trying to work through all this stuff now- as you can tell.

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post #30 of 85 Old 07-03-2013, 10:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mfusick View Post

I am like a hoover vacuum trying to suck down as much as I can. My build is going to start this summer and I am noob at this stuff (as you can tell ) I've only popped into this forum a bit in the past. Generally I am a quick learner and avid poster- so I apologize for my noobness and posting style tongue.gif Trying to cram as much as I can in and do it best I can. I'm very appreciative of the knowledge and advice of everyone. This is exactly what I need!

(I don't need to be Loganed already though eek.gif )

Just giving you a hard time. I appreciate your enthusiasm here as well as in the HTPC areas. I'll definitely be sub'd when you get your build thread going.

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