Shopping for a door - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 16 Old 07-17-2013, 09:21 PM - Thread Starter
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What should I be looking for in a door?

I know I want something unique. I would like 1 3/4" solid wood door (mahogany, walnut, cherry)
Something like the following
http://www.nicksbuilding.com/IMAGES/WOOD-DOOR-GALLERY/CUSTOM_DOOR_PICTURE3.JPG
http://www.glenviewdoors.com/Wood-Entry-Door.php?GD=095_2SL_Mahogany-Dark&GlenviewCollection=Classic
http://www.glenviewdoors.com/Wood-Entry-Door.php?GD=301_Mahogany-Walnut&GlenviewCollection=Classic
http://www.glenviewdoors.com/Custom-Door-Solid-Wood.php?GD=M-701P_Walnut&DoorSeries=Classic
http://www.glenviewdoors.com/Custom-Door-Solid-Wood.php?GD=611A_Mahogany-Walnut&DoorSeries=Classic

I need a 7.5" jamb. This doesn't seem to be too problematic for vendors to complete.

Do I ask for an interior jamb set or exterior? What is the difference? Seals?

I intend to get an automatic door bottom. If I do an exterior pre hung can I skip the rest of the Zero International seals along the sides and top?
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post #2 of 16 Old 07-18-2013, 04:45 AM
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An exterior pre-hung usually comes with a integrated threshold with a door seal which may interfere with the automatic door bottom. The weather proof seals on exterior doors range from fair to good. The Zero adjustable seals are excellent.
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post #3 of 16 Old 07-18-2013, 06:53 AM
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...also, a solid wood door will NOT reduce sound as well as a composite door. You can order a door that is "skinned" with real wood. The key is mass. Lots of mass and the composite doors will be significantly heavier than a solid wood door. Also solid wood can resonate terribly (and transmit the sound to outside of the theater room). There is a reason that speaker cabinets are NOT made with solid wood. Just keep that in mind.

I went to the local lumber yard / supply store and had the manager lookup the heaviest exterior, gasketed door they could order. I also ordered it iin flat panel oak with jam extensions to fit my thick wall and with ball bearing hinges to support the weight. It was quite a chore getting it down into the basement! I think I paid about $275.
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post #4 of 16 Old 07-18-2013, 07:20 AM - Thread Starter
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So interior door with Zero International Seals is the best way to go?

Do you guys recommend any manufacturers to look at? Is this the type you recommend? http://www.trustile.com/residential/difference.asp?cid=423
Any others you know of?

I thought solid wood was the way to go, but I guess I was wrong.

I certainly want a real wood look and feel. I've seen a Trustile door and thought it looked a bit fake but it was only one example. Maybe I need to see more of their work.

My budget for a door is undefined. If I find something that blows me away I think I would be willing to go to around $2K but I'd like to leave it under $1K so then I can add the Zero International seals
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post #5 of 16 Old 07-18-2013, 10:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M View Post

So interior door with Zero International Seals is the best way to go?

Do you guys recommend any manufacturers to look at? Is this the type you recommend? http://www.trustile.com/residential/difference.asp?cid=423
Any others you know of?

I thought solid wood was the way to go, but I guess I was wrong.

I certainly want a real wood look and feel. I've seen a Trustile door and thought it looked a bit fake but it was only one example. Maybe I need to see more of their work.

My budget for a door is undefined. If I find something that blows me away I think I would be willing to go to around $2K but I'd like to leave it under $1K so then I can add the Zero International seals


Custom built is another option............this Knotty Alder door was custom made and is 2-7/8" thick. From the top of my head it was something like $2300 + with out the Zero seals. We did run into one small problem..........this door had to go elsewhere due to needing 5'' offset handle. Expensive mistake by the mill....but now I have two heavy custom made doors in lobby and theater entrance. biggrin.gif

The mass of the door required special hinges using bearings, but now I have the door mounted with the zero seals.........it stops sound dead in its tracks. When I add the S2 into the mix........will see how it handles LF.
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post #6 of 16 Old 07-18-2013, 12:57 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doublewing11 View Post



Custom built is another option............this Knotty Alder door was custom made and is 2-7/8" thick. From the top of my head it was something like $2300 + with out the Zero seals. We did run into one small problem..........this door had to go elsewhere due to needing 5'' offset handle. Expensive mistake by the mill....but now I have two heavy custom made doors in lobby and theater entrance. biggrin.gif

The mass of the door required special hinges using bearings, but now I have the door mounted with the zero seals.........it stops sound dead in its tracks. When I add the S2 into the mix........will see how it handles LF.

Holy smokes that is a HUGE door!
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post #7 of 16 Old 07-18-2013, 07:55 PM
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Exterior door is probably cheaper, or you can beef up and interior door with GG+MDF layer.

I was considering making one, with the raised panel cabinet door look. I just bought the router set of bits to do it. Figured I could layer MDF with GG in the center and then the skinnier door panels on top. Three layers with two layers of GG, MDF mass in the center, it should work well for sound. Pain the ass to build I am sure- But probably cost me a few hundred bucks versus $2300 I don't have eek.gif

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post #8 of 16 Old 07-19-2013, 08:33 AM - Thread Starter
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Is a Fire Rate door something I may be interested in?

Does it add to STC?

Thanks
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post #9 of 16 Old 07-19-2013, 10:50 AM
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I've been working on doors for the last couple of weeks. I'm using two ETO Mahogany doors with two zero kits (which will be mounted this weekend). I built the thresholds which are decoupled from each other which seem to really work well. I had a lot of posts and pics regarding this subject starting here and going to the end (last night I was working on the inner door and posted some pics): http://www.avsforum.com/t/1406831/hawaii-home-theater-construction/480 Maybe some if it will be helpful for you (I wish I could have seen something like this before starting smile.gif )
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post #10 of 16 Old 07-19-2013, 10:56 AM
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From my research and eventual purchase the higher fire rating usually means you are going to get a heavier door which will aid in the reduction of sound transmission. I ended up purchasing a Masonite door with a 20 minute fire rating (assuming it is part of a fire rated system) that has a particle board core. Masonite offers a safe n sound solid core door but I found out that the inner core material is actually made from wheat straw which is less dense then the particle board core. There wasn't much of a premium to step up to the particle board core. Where there was a premium was moving up to the mineral core door which I believe steps the fire rating up to 60 minutes. The mineral core is made up of pressed gypsum. I forget the exact weight difference between the door I got and the mineral core version but I want to say it went from about 85 lbs for the door I got (36"w x 80") to about 96-100 lbs for a mineral core. The pressed gypsum is also going to be more dense than the particle board. Here is a link to a chart (click on the interior door pdf) showing STC values for the various door panel and core styles. As you can see the mineral core tops them all. Hope this helps.

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post #11 of 16 Old 07-19-2013, 12:07 PM
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That is a helpful chart Vanice. I think it goes to show just how weak the doors really are with a 1 3/4 mineral core at only STC 35. I think that data supports the idea of adding layers to a door with a damping compound to try to increase the STC rating at least for those of us on a tight budget. It adds a layer of difficulty with the hinges. Jambs, and door latches though as I am finding out.

I don't know if the OP mentioned if he was sound isolating the room. If he is not then an STC 35 door with zero seals may not be much of a weak link anyway.
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post #12 of 16 Old 07-19-2013, 02:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vanice View Post

From my research and eventual purchase the higher fire rating usually means you are going to get a heavier door which will aid in the reduction of sound transmission. I ended up purchasing a Masonite door with a 20 minute fire rating (assuming it is part of a fire rated system) that has a particle board core. Masonite offers a safe n sound solid core door but I found out that the inner core material is actually made from wheat straw which is less dense then the particle board core. There wasn't much of a premium to step up to the particle board core. Where there was a premium was moving up to the mineral core door which I believe steps the fire rating up to 60 minutes. The mineral core is made up of pressed gypsum. I forget the exact weight difference between the door I got and the mineral core version but I want to say it went from about 85 lbs for the door I got (36"w x 80") to about 96-100 lbs for a mineral core. The pressed gypsum is also going to be more dense than the particle board. Here is a link to a chart (click on the interior door pdf) showing STC values for the various door panel and core styles. As you can see the mineral core tops them all. Hope this helps.

My 1000th post!!! biggrin.gifcool.gif
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post #13 of 16 Old 07-19-2013, 02:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jedimastergrant View Post

That is a helpful chart Vanice. I think it goes to show just how weak the doors really are with a 1 3/4 mineral core at only STC 35. I think that data supports the idea of adding layers to a door with a damping compound to try to increase the STC rating at least for those of us on a tight budget. It adds a layer of difficulty with the hinges. Jambs, and door latches though as I am finding out.

I don't know if the OP mentioned if he was sound isolating the room. If he is not then an STC 35 door with zero seals may not be much of a weak link anyway.

Yes the room is soundproofed to the best of my abilities
staggered studs
5/8" OSB
green glue
5/8" gypsum
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post #14 of 16 Old 07-19-2013, 02:38 PM
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Checked out your room. It is looking amazing. I especially like the big crown on the ceiling. And I am so jealous of that popcorn popper. One of these years I will probably ask for one for Christmas or something.

I wish I had a more definitive answer for you but I am trying to figure this out myself. There are some helpful posts in my build thread on the last 2 pages. My current plan is to start with a solid core 1 3/4 and add a few layers of mdf with green glue. Add some crazy hinges and Zero seals. I think it will be important to do the very best I can to beef up the door and raise the STC. After all of that work on sound isolation (and you know what I mean) I want to strengthen my weakest link.

I will also have a communicating door system for what it is worth. The second set of doors will not be as beefy as the first though.
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post #15 of 16 Old 07-19-2013, 08:14 PM - Thread Starter
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Ok seems Trustile is out. I was getting really excited about them because of all the options they offer, and they use Zero International seals
Lumber yard called me and quoted 2900 for 1 3/4 and 3100 for 2 1/4 frown.gif
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post #16 of 16 Old 08-24-2013, 06:29 AM
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