Dimmer for LED lights - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 8 Old 07-19-2013, 05:10 AM - Thread Starter
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I am using LutronMIR-600THW dimmer which I use with Logitech 900 remote to dim recessed lights. They are either incandescent or halogen and not sure. I want to change them to LED bulbs. Last time, when I talked to Lutron, they said this switch does not support LED lights.

I plan to change these lights to LED. Do you have any recommendation to control LED lights with IR switch and that works with Logitech remote?
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post #2 of 8 Old 07-19-2013, 06:29 PM
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Check out my experience with this

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1301744/nicks-homebrew-bar-and-entertainment-area/990#post_23368755
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post #3 of 8 Old 07-20-2013, 09:02 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Swervepf View Post

Check out my experience with this

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1301744/nicks-homebrew-bar-and-entertainment-area/990#post_23368755
Thanks a lot for sharing. It is surprising that still today, there is no dimmable LED lights that can work without flash. My requriment is to get IR controlled switch with dimmable LEDs.

I got energy audit and guy found there are hot spots around these lights. It could be gap between cans where air may be leaking. I thought to fix these lights first and then put more insulation. Due to restrictions that you can't put insulation on top of halogen lights, there is hotspot.

How is anybody using halogen lights without hot spots.
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post #4 of 8 Old 07-20-2013, 03:52 PM
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It appears these Lutron MIR-600THW dimmers, in spite of their relatively high cost per unit, take the cheap design shortcut of deriving their operating power through the load. LEDs (and CFLs for that matter) flash because their power requirement is lower than the power required by these dimmers in standby mode. What you need is a 'Three Wire' (NOT '3 Way') dimmer. It will have an input wire (black), an output wire (red) and a neutral wire (white). The always live black and white connection will provide power to the dimmer without placing the dimmer in series with the LEDs. This in turn will keep the bulbs from flashing from the current flowing through them. Good luck finding them, you might have to go beyond the consumer level stuff.


Edit: You might also be able to stop the flashing by adding as little as a 25 to 40 watt bulb, instead of a 65 watt PAR30. YMMV
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post #5 of 8 Old 07-22-2013, 07:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sukumar View Post


Thanks a lot for sharing. It is surprising that still today, there is no dimmable LED lights that can work without flash. My requriment is to get IR controlled switch with dimmable LEDs.

I got energy audit and guy found there are hot spots around these lights. It could be gap between cans where air may be leaking. I thought to fix these lights first and then put more insulation. Due to restrictions that you can't put insulation on top of halogen lights, there is hotspot.

How is anybody using halogen lights without hot spots.

The ability to put insulation on the fixture doesn't really have anything to do with the bulb. It's the housing. The housing can be IC (Insulation contact) or Non-IC. Most builders were using non-ic for anything over 5 years old. You could swap the housing with an "old work" IC housing.
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post #6 of 8 Old 07-23-2013, 07:57 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wraunch View Post

The ability to put insulation on the fixture doesn't really have anything to do with the bulb. It's the housing. The housing can be IC (Insulation contact) or Non-IC. Most builders were using non-ic for anything over 5 years old. You could swap the housing with an "old work" IC housing.

Thanks. That makes sense. I will try to do this.
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post #7 of 8 Old 07-23-2013, 08:49 AM
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I found that the only place LED make sense is in lighting circuit that are on a lot. You have not stated what the base of your bulbs are, but if you are using GU10's one of the easiest way's to drop demand is, and most of the manufactures have lower watt bulbs that can be used for dropping from a standard 50 watt to 25. Also the dimmers when in use cut the demand down by a lot. I have LED every where they make seances, every exterior light 12 and 120 volt. The payback on the LED's in this case would be someplace in the last half of the 2040's. Also if you do go LED don't waste your time on the cheap Hong Kong bulbs on Ebay get the name brand stuff from the Depot or Loews.
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post #8 of 8 Old 07-23-2013, 08:06 PM
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There are lots of places LED is appropriate (more and more every day!). There are also many good bulbs out there. As an example, at my local Home Depot, I can get 9.5 Watt Cree LEDs for 6 bucks. They have a 25,000 hour rating, a five year warranty and put out more light than a 60 watt incandescent (which costs about a buck and is rated at 1200 hours). 100 Watt incandescent bulbs are currently restricted and within a year or two 60s will also be banned (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phase-out_of_incandescent_light_bulbs). They also dim nicely, although at first it seems weird because they don't shift to orange or red like filament bulbs do. You should also check with your local electric utility because the often subsidize them. At work I recently got 90 dimmable LED bulbs for less than $300 by using a $1425 instant rebate provided by the energy company.
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