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post #1 of 59 Old 08-11-2013, 08:46 PM - Thread Starter
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He owns everything else in this house, figured better make it his Cinema too:



This will be a slow build so don't expect it done in a month like some of BIG's builds!! Two jobs, a puppy and a 5 year old are enough to keep me pretty busy!

Details of build:

Framing/Drywall/Sound Isloation: More details can be found HERE. Room will be 18' x 10' after drywall. 24" OC studs. IB3 brackets at top of wall, clips and channel for ceiling. 5/8" OSB/GG/5/8" Drywall. 30" solid core door entering in left front of theater.

Finishing: Will be a mini version of Cinemar theater. GOM covered panels above a black chair rail and lower wood paneling all painted matte black. Speakers integrated into shallow columns with wood trim and removeable GOM covered panels.

Seating/Riser: 12" tall riser. 3 seat couch in back with 2 power reclining Palliser Blade seats in front.

Stage/Screen: 10" Tall stepped stage, Seymour 2.40?? AT 96" x 40" screen. Area below screen will be paneled much like Cinemar so the subs can essentially sit under the screen. This allows my false wall to be closer to the front wall without the viewing distance being too close.

Electronics/Rack: RBH speakers because of their shallow depth , 7.2 system, Onkyo TX-NR1010 receiver, DirecTV HD satellite, Oppo BDP-103 BD player, Panamax power conditioner. Omnimount RE27 rack. VPL-HW40ES Sony Projector.

Wiring: Projector - HDMI Redmere cables, 2-Cat 6 cables, 2" conduit, one outlet ran back to power conditioner at rack
Speakers - 12/2 speaker wire, RG6 to four possible sub locations
Stage - two outlets for subs, 2x Cat6 (one for IR), LED controller
Riser - Several outlets for general use and power recline seats. Conduit ran for HDMI, Cat 6, USB, 3.5 stereo cable, RCA, speaker cables for future buttkickers.
Soffit - outlet for future use. RGB strip LED lighting
Rack - three 20A 4-plex outlets.
Columns - outlets for general use

Lighting: Step lights (led strip), six 4" can lights over seating w/backer boxes, four 4" can lights in soffit above stage in front of screen, controlled by lutron RF dimmers.

HVAC: One supply at front right of room in soffit, one return at rear of room in soffit. 6" insulated flex duct. Both utilizing dead vents.

Acoustics: 2" front wall full coverage OC703. 6" rear wall full coverage. 2" OC703 on side walls back to side surrounds. Behind that, up to 5' from floor. Bass traps front corners.








Last edited by joshp14; 06-25-2015 at 09:15 PM.
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post #2 of 59 Old 08-13-2013, 09:25 AM
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Looking forward to seeing your progress.

Keep the pics coming.
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post #3 of 59 Old 08-13-2013, 08:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Well got the last of the framing done. Still need to attach the wall by the furnace to the concrete wall with IB3 clips. I also have a couple questions for anyone that can answer them. In regards to outside walls the touch the theater walls, do you have to isolate those too? Should I leave a small gap between the walls and fill with acoustical sealant?


Should I toenail 2x2's into that header plate that sits below that hvac return duct and then build a box around the duct and attach to ceiling joist? Walls are isolated with IB3 clips and the ceiling will be IB1 clips with hat channel and walls/ceilings will be 5/8" DD with GG. The soffit will go all the way around the room. The other side of the room I have the option of building the soffit after the drywall is up, or do it now and isloate it like the soffit will be around the HVAC ducts. I plan to run the majority of my wiring through the empty soffit as well as some HVAC supply ducts for the room. What would you guys do? Frame it now and drywall over it, or build it after the room is drywalled?


Entrance to theater is next to furnace. The angled wall next to doorway will be hidden behind the screen wall. It's there so anyone can access under the stairway (where the sump pump is located). There will be a small 18" door just to the left of the theater door (see pic above).
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post #4 of 59 Old 08-16-2013, 09:24 PM - Thread Starter
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Update on electronics:

As far as the speakers, I think I've decided on the RBH speakers. Here is what I'm planning:

LCR - MC-553: http://rbhsound.com/mc553.php
Back surrounds: MC-6DB: http://rbhsound.com/mc6db.php
Side surrounds: MC-6: http://rbhsound.com/mc6.php
Subs: SVS PB-1000: http://www.svsound.com/subwoofers/po...0#.Ug7Ex5XJBlI

Projector: Sony VPL-HW40ES

Receiver: Onkyo TX-NR1010 for a receiver upgrade. It has the MultEQ XT32 as well as the SubEQ so hopefully that will be a good match for these speakers and subs I have chosen.

Screen: Seymour Centerstage XD 96" x 40"

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post #5 of 59 Old 09-06-2013, 03:05 PM - Thread Starter
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The past few weeks I've been gathering some more things to move forward. Waiting on Bryan Pape for my acoustic plan. Got some low voltage wiring ran. Here are a few goodies that were dropped off:

RBH MC-553 LCR Speakers


Side and Rear surrounds MC-6 and MC-6DB


Harmony One remote


Found green glue on sale locally!


Lutron Maestro IR Dimmers, 4 lighting zones.


Omnimount RE27 rack. Very nice and well built rack. Came with cooling fans.


5/8" OSB, insulated duct, cement board, more studs, conduit for run to projector,
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post #6 of 59 Old 12-28-2013, 12:59 PM - Thread Starter
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Finally got some pictures taken. It's been slow for sure...just as I anticipated. All of the high and low voltage wiring is ran, R13 insulation in walls and starting to hang the 5/8" OSB. Starting to frame around the HVAC ducting. The soffit on this side of the room will be soundproofed as the HVAC ducting will be located outside the room so the soffit will contain 5/8" OBS/GG/5/8" Drywall. The soffit on the other side of the room will be framed once drywall is up. It will also be enclosed with double 5/8" layers because it will contain the flex ducting for the dead vents. I do have a couple questions though.

1) Should I installed the clips/channel on ceiling and install 1st layer of OSB, or should I install the OSB on the wall first, then hang the clips/channel and OSB? The second layer is 5/8" drywall. I plan to alternate them to give the stepped effect in the corners but I dont know if it matters to do the wall or ceiling first.

2) Should I use 3/4" MDF to box around the HVAC duct or should I use the 2 layers of 5/8" material with GG in between? I assume the 2 layers with GG in between would provide the best sound dampening?




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post #7 of 59 Old 01-08-2014, 06:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Some more progress. Got all the wall OSB up. Backer boxes for the can lights built. Ceiling insulation in progress. Then will finish hat channel and on to ceiling OSB and drywall. Got a couple lights wired in for more light in there. Nothing too spectacular to look at yet. Hopefully all the de-coupling, double 5/8" layers, green glue, acoustic caulk, backer boxes, insulation and sound treatments performs well for all the time and money it takes!






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post #8 of 59 Old 01-10-2014, 01:00 PM
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That's some nice work man!
Keep it up smile.gif

My own build: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1514892/th...ted-ht-project
Panasonic PT-AT6000, Denon X4000, Focal 716-700CC-700SR, SVS PB-1000
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post #9 of 59 Old 01-10-2014, 02:54 PM
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Ah the fun and joy of backer boxes.

Yes, it will be worth it! smile.gif

Every man dies. Not every man really lives.
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post #10 of 59 Old 01-27-2014, 05:20 PM - Thread Starter
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A little more progress...


Starting to frame around HVAC ducting.


Insulation all done...who doesn't love installing fiberglass insulation?!


HVAC almost fully boxed in


Conduit running to projector for HDMI/Future runs. Also all the other cabling that runs to the rear speakers and for the riser.


Ceiling started
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post #11 of 59 Old 02-06-2014, 01:18 PM - Thread Starter
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Ceiling done... tough to do by yourself but i did it.
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post #12 of 59 Old 02-06-2014, 01:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Gaps sealed with acoustic sealant.


Green glue applied


Drywall started.
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post #13 of 59 Old 04-06-2014, 12:08 PM - Thread Starter
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Two months later...here is an update. Did all the drywall work by myself including the taping and seaming...that was a fun experience. tongue.gif

Hanging drywall...all did with no help.


Drywall all hung. Second layer of 3/4" MDF going on soffit. Once the rest of the soffit is constructed the bottom will go on. It will overhang the vertical section by 4-5" with crown attached to the end. RGB LED strip lighting will be installed behind crown.


Foyer area entering theater room. Facing away from theater door towards stairway. Still have a little more mudding to do then it will be ready for primer, texturing and paint.


Primer started. Walls won't be painted as they will be covered in fabric acoustic panels.


Walls and ceiling primed. MDF puddied and primed.


Another shot facing front of theater.


Ceiling painted. Lights installed


3" Recessed lights. Dimmable halogen with Lutron Maestro IR dimmers.


Next on the list is to construct soffit in rest of room. This will encase the HVAC supply and returns via dead vents. After that stage and riser will be constructed.

One thing I still need is the grilles/diffusers for my HVAC. I plan to have the supply towards the front of the room, coming out the bottom of the RH soffit. The return will be at the rear of the room also located in the soffit. What size should I use? I know long and narrow is best. Do I need different style for the supply and a different for the return? Maybe a diffuser for the supply and standard grille for return?
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post #14 of 59 Old 04-06-2014, 04:12 PM
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post #15 of 59 Old 04-08-2014, 07:13 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roccoleach View Post

Funny I used the same lights. Mine were led thou.

I contemplated going the LED route but the dimmable versions are still kind of pricey and bigger. These lights are $10/each from Lowes and they are dimmable. I like how small they are. They look sharp.
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post #16 of 59 Old 04-08-2014, 07:26 PM
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post #17 of 59 Old 06-14-2015, 08:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Clearly it's been awhile since I've updated this thread! Didn't have much time to work on the theater this winter...bought a new sled so I spent some time out of state enjoying the cold!

Anyway I got back to the grind this spring and here are some updates.

Installing the final layer of 3/4" MDF to the bottom of the soffits. I added a 1x3 to the outer edge. The LED strips will be sit on top of a 2x2 (not yet installed) behind this 1x3". Upside down base molding and then crown molding will be attached to the 1x3. GOM will be on the bottom of the soffit.


Had the drywall guy come back out and fix some minor cracking in the seams. Hopefully it is good now. Will need to re-prime and paint the ceiling.


One of the vents on the soffit. One return and one supply. Each has a 6" flex duct going to it and will have an inline Fantech fan controlling each one. Both fans will be operated by a device that control fan speed based on temperature of the room.


Front soffit where the LED wiring comes through for the soffit lighting.


Command central for the rack located just outside the theater door in the foyer area.


Banana plugs all installed and neatly heat shrinked.


Riser construction started. 30# roofing felt on the concrete, 2x12 perimeter construction, 2x6 spanners with joist hangers. Foam on a roll around outside edge, will have 2 layers of 3/4" T&G OSB with roofing felt in between.


Two inch conduit ran through riser for any future wiring runs that I may want/need.


Electrical boxes at front of riser. 8 outlets, USB, HDMI, 1/8" stereo, RCA, buttkickers, CAT6...hopefully anything I will ever need will be here at my disposal.


Romex wiring ran for outets that will be in the columns. R38 insulation installed.


First layer of 3/4" glued and screwed. Next adding a layer of roofing felt and then final layer of 3/4" OSB


Next up will be stage construction and hopefully get rid of the 1,500 lbs of bagged sand I have sitting in my garage!

Last edited by joshp14; 06-17-2015 at 09:22 PM.
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post #18 of 59 Old 06-17-2015, 03:25 PM
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Looks really good! Love the nice, neat work.

Word of advice...Green Glue for the second layer on the riser if you have enough left....or use construction adhesive for the second layer and skip the felt.
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post #19 of 59 Old 06-17-2015, 04:03 PM
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Looks great
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post #20 of 59 Old 06-17-2015, 09:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post
Looks really good! Love the nice, neat work.

Word of advice...Green Glue for the second layer on the riser if you have enough left....or use construction adhesive for the second layer and skip the felt.
Can I ask why? I thought roofing felt was the way to go between the two layers on the riser?
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post #21 of 59 Old 06-17-2015, 09:34 PM - Thread Starter
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Also, I'm on the fence on receivers. I had originally planned to get the Onkyo TX-NR1010 receiver. Now Onkyo has replaced it with the TX-NR1030, which I can get for the same price as the 1010. It has the 9.2 and Atmos ability, but I didnt wire the room for 9.2 or atmos.

Here are the speakers I already bought and the subs I plan to buy:

LCR - MC-553 - http://rbhsound.com/mc553.php
Back surrounds: MC-6DB - http://rbhsound.com/mc6db.php
Side surrounds: MC-6 - http://rbhsound.com/mc6.php
Subs: DUAL SVS SB-2000 - http://www.svsound.com/subwoofers/du...s/dual-sb-2000

Should I go with last years TX-NR1010 or go with the newer TX-NR1030? Will there be any benefits using the 1030 over the 1010? I still have a lot to learn when it comes to choosing receivers and subs so bear with me! Any help is appreciated.

Josh
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post #22 of 59 Old 06-18-2015, 02:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joshp14 View Post
Can I ask why? I thought roofing felt was the way to go between the two layers on the riser?
Ancient construction approach that still persists. When asked why someone is using roofing felt in the first place the response is usually 'to prevent squeaks'. But if you are screwing two layers of identical material together, you will not have any squeaks. This is especially true if you use construction adhesive between the two layers and create what is essentially a monolithic slab.

Erskine and other professionals recommend Green Glue between the layers since it is an opportunity to dampen any kind of resonant frequencies from the riser as Low Frequency Energy passes through.

And if it is the same price, I would get the current Atmos receiver whether or not you use it. As all of us eventually upgrade, it would be worth more on the resale market.
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post #23 of 59 Old 06-18-2015, 10:29 AM
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Josh, nice to see another "cozy" room being built. Seems like you're doing very well so far, so keep at it and update us when you can. Oh, and you can't really have picked a better theatre for inspiration!
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post #24 of 59 Old 06-19-2015, 05:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks fellas!

I need some help....

Projectors: I have it narrowed down to 3.

Trying to decide between the Panny AE8000, Sony HW40ES, or the Epson 5030UB.

Dedicated home theater room. No windows. 95% blu-ray movies that are mostly 2.4 format. Power zoom/focus doesn't matter to me as I don't think I'll be switching much to the 16:9 format.

Throw is about 14-15'. 96x40" Seymour Centerstage UF acoustically transparent screen.

Panny - $1500 includes 3 year upgraded warranty
Sony - $2000 (free calibration bluray)
Epson - $2000 (includes two pair 3d glasses, cal bluray and free lamp)


Receivers: I am still torn between last years TX-NR1010 and the TX-NR1030. The 1010 has the Audyssey MultEQ XT32 which I have read fabulous things about. I will be running 2 subs so it's important to me to be able to have the room calibrated properly. The 1030 has the new AccuEQ (I know nothing about). Is this better than the Audyssey MultEQ XT32? I know it has ATMOS but I have no use for this at this time...nor is the room wired for anything bigger than a 7.2 system.

Any advice?

Last edited by joshp14; 06-19-2015 at 09:57 PM.
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post #25 of 59 Old 06-21-2015, 09:02 PM - Thread Starter
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Taped out the screen on the wall (even though it will be on a false wall) just to get an idea on the size. This is a 16:9 format. I originally planned on a scope screen but I think I'm going with the 16:9 now.


I thought about several ways to get the "arc" from plan to reality and not having a CAD system to help give me dimensions and cut angles, I did it a different way. I got a large piece of cardboard and traced several different radius circles ranging from 11' to 20'. I took them down into the theater room and decided on the 11' radius. I traced it onto the floor. To determine the length of 2x8, I used the framing square and measured to the arc from the wall. Then I used my angle gauge to eyeball the angle of the cut, used my miter saw to get the angle, then set the bevel cut on the saw to cut the angle. Kind of a PITA but it's the best way I could think of without a ton of math.




All 2x8's cut and angles cut on the ends.


That was fun getting that 1/2" plywood bent around the front and screwed into place by myself! Also got the Cat6, sub and electrical ran into the box on the stage. I didn't buy enough 2x8 so I have one small piece to cut and install on the left side then it's onto filling the stage with sand and OSB covering.


Funny how the riser has now turned into a work shelf.


I also ordered my projector...the Sony VPL-HW40ES...should be here this week. My current blu-ray player decided not to play certain blu-rays...guess it gives me a reason to get my new Oppo BDP-103 ordered...should be here this week too. I also bought the parts to build my screen frame. Need to get the AT screen material ordered from Seymour and get my GOM and OC703 ordered too.

I am also still on the fence about the lower section of the walls. I had originally planned to do woodwork similar to Mario's Cinemar build but now I'm thinking of doing acoustic panels floor to ceiling with a chair rail separating the different colored panels.

There's a lot more decisions being made on the fly because this is my first build and I'm learning a lot! Thankful for this forum.
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Last edited by joshp14; 06-23-2015 at 07:39 PM.
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post #26 of 59 Old 06-23-2015, 05:26 PM
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Good job on the radius and choice of projector! I really like my Sony HW55es, which is very similar to yours.

Re: receiver, are you planning to support Atmos?

In my first theater, I did multi-color panels with a chair rail. You can see pics here. Easy peezy.

My current build is more challenging because of the knee wall and gable windows on both sides. Right now, those walls are just painted. At some point, I'm going to add acoustic panels. But, first, I'm trying to achieve baseline functionality. :-)

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post #27 of 59 Old 06-23-2015, 07:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChadA View Post
Good job on the radius and choice of projector! I really like my Sony HW55es, which is very similar to yours.

Re: receiver, are you planning to support Atmos?

In my first theater, I did multi-color panels with a chair rail. You can see pics here. Easy peezy.

My current build is more challenging because of the knee wall and gable windows on both sides. Right now, those walls are just painted. At some point, I'm going to add acoustic panels. But, first, I'm trying to achieve baseline functionality. :-)
Thanks! I get the projector and bluray player tomorrow...then I can stare at them in the box!

The receiver I'm still on the fence about and still looking to get more feedback on it. I did not wire for anything other than 7.2 because the room is so small (18'L x 10'W x 8'H). I was set on the TX-NR1010 and still kind of am. It's new replacement (the TX-NR1030) doesn't have the audyssey multeq xt32 and subeq (that ive read so many great things about) but now has the accuEQ...which I've read isnt quite as good as the audyssey. I can get the 1010 for $970 and the 1030 for $992. I'd love to have the atmos, but I think that's maybe in my next house down the road. Thoughts?

Your theater looks great! I was thinking similar colors for my build as well.
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post #28 of 59 Old 06-23-2015, 09:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joshp14 View Post
Thanks! I get the projector and bluray player tomorrow...then I can stare at them in the box!

The receiver I'm still on the fence about and still looking to get more feedback on it. I did not wire for anything other than 7.2 because the room is so small (18'L x 10'W x 8'H). I was set on the TX-NR1010 and still kind of am. It's new replacement (the TX-NR1030) doesn't have the audyssey multeq xt32 and subeq (that ive read so many great things about) but now has the accuEQ...which I've read isnt quite as good as the audyssey. I can get the 1010 for $970 and the 1030 for $992. I'd love to have the atmos, but I think that's maybe in my next house down the road. Thoughts?

Your theater looks great! I was thinking similar colors for my build as well.
Thanks!

If you don't need Atmos, I would go for the 1010 because of the Audyssey functionality. I have the TX-NR838 because I wanted to have some level of Atmos support AND it basically came free with my speaker purchase. If I didn't get the NR838 for low $'s, I would probably wait a generation or two for Atmos to mature.
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post #29 of 59 Old 06-23-2015, 10:24 PM
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good start
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post #30 of 59 Old 06-25-2015, 08:59 PM - Thread Starter
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Stage framing done.


Let the sand filling begin.


1,000 lbs later....


Second step filled with insulation.


First layer glued and screwed.


Second layer with green glue next. Probably wont use green glue on the second layer of the riser.
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Reply Dedicated Theater Design & Construction

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Onkyo Tx Sr608 Receiver , Green Glue Noiseproofing Compound 12 Tubes , Onkyo Tx Nr1010 Network A V Receiver
Gear in this thread - Sr608 by PriceGrabber.com



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