Should I put in the finished flooring first?(right now it's just the bare concrete)
Do I take the stops all the way to the concrete then cut around them or put the flooring in first then measure the height for the door stops?
You should have the finished floor in first. Based on my conversation with Ted, it should also be intuitive that it would work better with a hard surface floor such as tile or wood compared to carpet. My flooring is going in this week so I'll be looking at doing the same next week!
Diamante Build in DC - Double Drywall, Green Glue, Drywall Furring Channel, Riser, Stage, Bass Trap, In-Wall Speakers, BG Radia, JTR Captivators, Seymour AV, Sony HW-50ES, Sherbourn, Panasonic, Middle Atlantic, Lutron Grafik Eye, Baffle Wall
I haven't had time to order another bottom due to my GC cutting off too much neoprene seal........the aluminum bottom cut was fine. Just giving a heads up.
Here's a few pics of the door seal and the 119W installed:
Surface mounted the automatic door seal first....eventually went back and routed it into the bottom of the door, which made more of a difference (no pics)
I definitely would not install the threshold over the carpeting. I'm not sure what the testing differences would be like, but I am sure only a scientific instrument could hear significant differences IMHO.
I would assume that if you put the threshold on top of the carpet there would be a 1/4" or so of smashed carpet and pad that is not as solid as the threshold and that would let more sound through. How much I don't know. Not sure if it is a big deal or not.
If the thresholds need to be out in first then that is what I will do. Any confirmations of this method?
EDIT: Link to catalog pages of different thresholds on Zero's website. You can thumb through the hole assortment so you can see what is available: http://www.zerointernational.com/catalogpage.aspx?pageID=42
I was planning to use a 3/4 oak board and cut it down to use as a threshold. But now I am unsure after looking at the thresholds that have an extra piece of neoprene for the bottom of the door to seal against. Are these expensive? I wonder if I could buy a standard exterior threshold that has a similar lip and install my own neoprene seal on it.
Any ideas or preferences on the threshold? I was thinking the wood looks a lot better than the aluminum but it might be one of those things that I will never really care about once it is installed.
I don't fully comprehend what you mean by a custom piece of wood to smooth the transition. Can you explain this to me?
Also, were the #119's easy to install as far as nothing to mortice or adjust?
That particular door was just a standard off-the-shelf 6 pocket solid core pre-hung unit. Yours should be much better with the extra mass and Green Glue. That install was 10 years ago in 2004, fyi.
The 119s were very easy to install because they come with a Pressure Sensitive Adhesive and just stick into place. I J-rolled the living Hell out of them to make sure they never moved. If I had to redo that part of the install, I would have cut a very slight miter to get a tight fit into the corners. You can see in the pics above that I only butted the 119 seals as close as I could.
The other thing I recall was that I had to run the door through my table saw and take off 1/8" or less on the strike side and the top to accommodate the metal seal. On the hinge side you can imagine that cutting the door down would do nothing to move the hinge side of the door away from the hinges, so I used an old carpenter's trick and shimmed out the jamb side of the hinge attachment by putting one or two cardboard shims under each hinge. This causes the hinge to sit slightly proud of the jamb, maybe a 1/16"+, but it didn't take much to make a difference on the tightness of the door.
Here's some STC numbers from Zero with different seal approaches: http://www.zeroplus.co.uk/products/door-seals/door-sets/typical-example-sets-of-zero-acoustic-seals/
EDIT: By the way, that extra piece of door stop you see in some of the pictures actually bridges the gap between the split jamb. It is only fastened on one side and essentially "floats" over the gap in the jamb to finish off the look. This was a double studded wall install with the one inch air gap in between. It just so-happened that by the door there was a support post that had to be accommodated in the overall depth.