Installing Zero Door Stops and Bottom - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 20 Old 08-13-2013, 12:13 AM - Thread Starter
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I have my soundproof doors hung and they look good and are quite heavy. Looking at Zero door stops now and their automatic door bottom.

Should I put in the finished flooring first?(right now it's just the bare concrete)
Do I take the stops all the way to the concrete then cut around them or put the flooring in first then measure the height for the door stops?

Thank you.

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post #2 of 20 Old 08-13-2013, 07:36 AM
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You should have the finished floor in first.  Based on my conversation with Ted, it should also be intuitive that it would work better with a hard surface floor such as tile or wood compared to carpet.  My flooring is going in this week so I'll be looking at doing the same next week!



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post #3 of 20 Old 10-07-2013, 05:39 PM - Thread Starter
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With the Zero International Door seals, is it ok to cut them myself to fit? I have a Miter saw, should do the trick but didn't want screw any of the adjustment hardware up.

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post #4 of 20 Old 10-07-2013, 05:46 PM
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Every one I've installed, I've had to cut, follow the instructions. The bottom can only be cut on one end. The side and top perimeter seal can be cut either end but I look at the screw holes and sometimes take a little off each end. You can use your regular wood cutting blade to cut aluminum but I actuall have a non ferrous metal cutting blade I throw in my miter to preserve my wood cutting blade life. This is one task that you MUST WEAR EYE PROTECTION as those little metal chips fly everywhere.

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post #5 of 20 Old 10-07-2013, 06:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks a lot. Though I was told to install them top to bottom. That way the adjustable bottom fits nicely between the side stops...

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post #6 of 20 Old 10-07-2013, 06:31 PM
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post #7 of 20 Old 10-07-2013, 06:53 PM
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To add.........make sure you push the neoprene sleeve to far end ie. the side that does not get cut on bottom seal. Leave more neoprene sleeve that needed and adjust so no air gaps on bottom.

I haven't had time to order another bottom due to my GC cutting off too much neoprene seal........the aluminum bottom cut was fine. Just giving a heads up.

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post #8 of 20 Old 10-08-2013, 05:01 AM
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You'll get the best performance Zero has to offer if you also use the Model 564 threshhold and recessing the automatic door bottom into the door itself vs. surface mounting. They also make a product # 119W which attaches to the jamb and forms a seal against the sides of the door when closed. The neoprene door seals only address the face of the door against the seal. I added the 119W a few months after initially installing the neoprene door system and was surprised by how much of a difference they made. They are also cheap!

Here's a few pics of the door seal and the 119W installed:










564 threshhold



Surface mounted the automatic door seal first....eventually went back and routed it into the bottom of the door, which made more of a difference (no pics)
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post #9 of 20 Old 10-08-2013, 08:01 AM
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Tim did you install the threshold or the carpet first? Does it make a difference regarding sound proofing? Is it more or less difficult for any reason?


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post #10 of 20 Old 10-08-2013, 08:21 AM
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I believe you'd want to install the threshold first and have the carpet run up to it.
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post #11 of 20 Old 10-08-2013, 08:28 AM
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Threshold was installed first. I cut a piece of 1/4" ply the exact width of the threshold to raise it up slightly. This allowed the carpet to be butted up against the threshold and tucked slightly underneath the leading edge for a really clean look and smooth transition. That's on the theater side (green carpet). The white lip you see on the outside of the theater (tan carpet) had a piece of finished wood to hide the slight difference in height and provide a finished edge because I used the Kinetics Noise Control "KIP" underneath the entire floor with two layers of 5/8" T&G glued and screwed to decouple the entire floor. There was less than 3/4" height difference, fyi, but it still needed to be finished off appropriately.

I definitely would not install the threshold over the carpeting. I'm not sure what the testing differences would be like, but I am sure only a scientific instrument could hear significant differences IMHO.
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post #12 of 20 Old 10-08-2013, 08:40 AM
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Well that is what I thought initially too. My contractors want to put the thresholds in after the carpet. I have not asked why and I am not sure how it is normally done.

I would assume that if you put the threshold on top of the carpet there would be a 1/4" or so of smashed carpet and pad that is not as solid as the threshold and that would let more sound through. How much I don't know. Not sure if it is a big deal or not.

If the thresholds need to be out in first then that is what I will do. Any confirmations of this method?


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post #13 of 20 Old 10-08-2013, 08:58 AM
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My guess is that they would stop the carpet strip just in front of the treshold so only the carpet would go underneath the threshold and no padding. Given the four screws that are used to hold the threshold in position, the carpet would compress substantially and you would probably not see a difference. But still, my preference would be to attach to something solid and not over top of any softer finishes. With hardwoods and tile the threshhold is installed over top of this particular threshold, fyi, because of the angle to the metal. However, Zero offers different profiles that do the same thing where the floor runs underneath the leading lip on both sides, but not fully underneath.

EDIT: Link to catalog pages of different thresholds on Zero's website. You can thumb through the hole assortment so you can see what is available: http://www.zerointernational.com/catalogpage.aspx?pageID=42
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post #14 of 20 Old 10-08-2013, 09:09 AM
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So it is probably better to place the threshold directly to the subfloor. But we are not really sure how much difference it will make because the compression on the carpet and possibly pad will be significant. Is that the take home?

I was planning to use a 3/4 oak board and cut it down to use as a threshold. But now I am unsure after looking at the thresholds that have an extra piece of neoprene for the bottom of the door to seal against. Are these expensive? I wonder if I could buy a standard exterior threshold that has a similar lip and install my own neoprene seal on it.

Any ideas or preferences on the threshold? I was thinking the wood looks a lot better than the aluminum but it might be one of those things that I will never really care about once it is installed.


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post #15 of 20 Old 10-08-2013, 09:25 AM
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No, what I was saying was that they are probably thinking of running only the carpet underneath, and not both the carpet and pad. You can install directly to the floor, but like I said above - I raised mine up with a custom cut scrap of plywood to smooth out the transition and give a bit of tucking room under the lip.
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post #16 of 20 Old 10-08-2013, 10:44 AM
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The contractors won't be doing the carpet themselves. I have another carpet crew coming to do that. So I guess I would need to ask them to not put pad under the threshold space if I went that route.

I don't fully comprehend what you mean by a custom piece of wood to smooth the transition. Can you explain this to me?


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post #17 of 20 Old 10-08-2013, 10:47 AM
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Think slapping the threshold on a piece of 1/4" plywood, tracing the outside perimeter and then cutting the piece. Nothing more elaborate than that.
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post #18 of 20 Old 10-08-2013, 12:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Tim do you still notice that your door is the weak spot in the soundproofing after all of that? What door do you have and how thick? My door is a solid core door that weighed about 60lbs. then put 2 layers of 1/2" MDF on the slab sandwiched by Greenglue.

Also, were the #119's easy to install as far as nothing to mortice or adjust?

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post #19 of 20 Old 10-08-2013, 01:10 PM
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The door will always be the weakest spot in your soundproofing envelope, followed closely by HVAC. This room was no different, but I have to say I was very happy with the end result.

That particular door was just a standard off-the-shelf 6 pocket solid core pre-hung unit. Yours should be much better with the extra mass and Green Glue. That install was 10 years ago in 2004, fyi.

The 119s were very easy to install because they come with a Pressure Sensitive Adhesive and just stick into place. I J-rolled the living Hell out of them to make sure they never moved. If I had to redo that part of the install, I would have cut a very slight miter to get a tight fit into the corners. You can see in the pics above that I only butted the 119 seals as close as I could.

The other thing I recall was that I had to run the door through my table saw and take off 1/8" or less on the strike side and the top to accommodate the metal seal. On the hinge side you can imagine that cutting the door down would do nothing to move the hinge side of the door away from the hinges, so I used an old carpenter's trick and shimmed out the jamb side of the hinge attachment by putting one or two cardboard shims under each hinge. This causes the hinge to sit slightly proud of the jamb, maybe a 1/16"+, but it didn't take much to make a difference on the tightness of the door.

Here's some STC numbers from Zero with different seal approaches: http://www.zeroplus.co.uk/products/door-seals/door-sets/typical-example-sets-of-zero-acoustic-seals/

EDIT: By the way, that extra piece of door stop you see in some of the pictures actually bridges the gap between the split jamb. It is only fastened on one side and essentially "floats" over the gap in the jamb to finish off the look. This was a double studded wall install with the one inch air gap in between. It just so-happened that by the door there was a support post that had to be accommodated in the overall depth.
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post #20 of 20 Old 10-08-2013, 06:07 PM
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There are many ways to seal door bottom..........................I prefer having a clean transition between carpet and hardwood flooring for Zero seals.



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