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post #1 of 41 Old 08-24-2013, 07:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Hello respected AVS community!

I am new to the community and am going to jump in and start my build thread. First I can't say enough about how amazing this community is. I am so blown away and inspired by the builds I have seen that I am full of ideas to try out my own. We just took possession of a new house (4 years old, second owners) and I have my unfinished basement and the permission / support of my wife to do it up right (or right on a reasonable budget anyway).

My initial home theater set up in our last house had to double as a family room so it was a compromise of sorts. I originally bought an Onkyo Receiver (a 7.1) and an Epson Home Cinema 8100, with Polk in wall and ceiling speakers (SC series), as well as two Monitor 80 tower speakers. I wired the system for 9.2 dreaming big lol.

Here is a picture:
My first build

I really enjoyed the experience of the install and beginning to learn, but as you can imagine it only fueled what will with any luck become an obsession to the same extent as many of you biggrin.gif. This year I upgraded the Projector, and Receiver and then shortly after we sold the house and moved to this new home.

Everything is on the table for debate and discussion and I welcome all comments and direction from the community. I will be sure and pay it all forward.

First the basement:

LEAD Technologies Inc. V1.01
((*Drawn with Google SketchUp a free tool for personal use -- for anyone even newer than me and needs that info))

LEAD Technologies Inc. V1.01

There are no walls in the basement other than on either side of the stairs. The beams you are looking at run in three places in the basement and have a clearance of 7 feet. Overall the basement is 8 feet tall to the joists. The bed is actually in there and I do need to build a basement but it is really just there for reference. The bathroom fixtures are roughed in, in the location I added the toilet and shower.

The left side of the basement (as shown in the picture) is 27' x 13' and the little nook on the far left measures and therefore adds 8' x 10'10". While kind of a good size overall I have not yet decided exactly what direction the theater room will be facing. Ideally I will get a dedicated theater, bathroom, bedroom, furnace / utility room, and either a small family room or just have the theater room large enough to have the family room space incorporated. I am new to the sound design aspect but I can't imagine a long rectangle with a card / games room table behind the back row of theater seating as it will be tough to make sound good I am thinking... (*mental note I also need take into account a hallway and how I will enter the rooms..)

I will post some ideas shortly on what I think will work best, and I would appreciate comments. I also will post my current equipment list shortly as well. Here we go!

Thank you in advance for the support of this great community. I will be sure to pay it all forward as I build my skill set!

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post #2 of 41 Old 08-24-2013, 08:53 PM - Thread Starter
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The equipment I current have:

Brought with me from the last house:
Panasonic PT-AE7000U Projector
Onkyo TX-NR515 7.2 Reciever
2 Polk Monitor 70 tower speakers

Purchased new (still in the box waiting for me....):
Grandview LF-PU120 Large Flat series 120" Perm-Fix screen (Note this is a local company in BC Canada where I lived that I supported. I don't know how they rank but will do some further reading on it now)
2 Polk TSx 550T Tower speakers
Polk TSx 250c Center Channel speaker
2 Polk F/XiA4 Timbre-Matched Bipole/Dipole Surround Speakers
2 Polk DSWPRO660wi 12-inch High Performance Subwoofers
(really excited to try the subs)

I don't think I forgot anything.... so is there anything in there that you think I must get away from before I bother installing I am all ears redface.gif)


Thank you in advance for the support of this great community. I will be sure to pay it all forward as I build my skill set!

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post #3 of 41 Old 08-25-2013, 01:58 PM - Thread Starter
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I am getting better at using Sketch Up and worked today on doing up my first option for where the theater room can go. This option has several pros and cons:

Pros:
  • It has it's own room as opposed to a theater / family room combo
  • There is room for the room within a room construction this way (*although other ways accomodate that as well)
  • This way the theater is 14' wide. The other major option I have will be only 12' 7" wide, but ends up being a lot deeper

Cons:
  • It is pretty tight for space. I am going to do the screen distance calculation on it but the front row of seats is sitting 7'8" away from a 120" (105" wide) screen. In testing that it seems there will be a little head movement needed
  • The beam across the ceiling between the first and second row of seats means I have to mount the projector lower, and this doesn't leave a lot of room between the projector and the people seated in the rear row... it's probably OK but not ideal
  • I wanted to leave room for the enclosure behind the screen in case I want to upgrade to acoustically transparent at some point in the future. This design means I can't do that at all
  • The bathroom will have to be accessed from the other side (turning right as you come down the stairs through the furnace room... not ideal for ushering guests to the washroom

LEAD Technologies Inc. V1.01
((** Note the outside wall double wall that doesn't quite complete is an error. I added the stage before the double wall. Oops))
LEAD Technologies Inc. V1.01
((** I noticed just now that I didn't add double walls to little back row seating area. While that faces rear to the property and no neighbors are directly behind this probably would contribute to sound leakage. Adding in those double walls likely makes this not doable....))

I will think on this one as I draw up the second main option and some variations of that one this week.

Thank you in advance for the support of this great community. I will be sure to pay it all forward as I build my skill set!

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post #4 of 41 Old 08-25-2013, 02:23 PM - Thread Starter
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I also just realized that I didn't build some of my walls the correct thickness in the model. I built them all 4-1/4" thick, but the inside of the room within a room wall should be 4-1/2" thick to account for double drywall on this inside only. so much to think about to get it right (I know who cares but I mention it for any learning as they go as I have).

Also I highly recommend the two hours (tops) that it will take you to go through all of the available Sketch Up basics videos. They are really excellent and got me up and running really well, quite easily. Note for any newer than I to this: "Sketch up Make" is what the personal use only version is called.

Thank you in advance for the support of this great community. I will be sure to pay it all forward as I build my skill set!

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post #5 of 41 Old 08-27-2013, 07:29 PM - Thread Starter
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Hi W00lly smile.gif

Done and Done! Pictures below. Also these will be my before pictures. As for the screen you are so right I am very tempted, mostly what held me back is that I don't have my head around what television would look like on it vs. movies, and if I want to worry about a masking system etc. Rookie question for you but do I need to get an Animorphic lens to use the 2:35 x 11? My screen is still in the box so I shouldn't have any trouble returning it at this point. Is that something I just need look in the projector menu for?

Here are the pictures of the basement. Between the photos and the floor plans posted in the first couple of posts it should allow anyone who is willing to comment a good feel for the room.

At the bottom of the stairs looking left


Standing in the corner with the electrical panel to my back


Walking forward from the last picture




Standing in the little nook (where I drew the second row of seating in the original theater drawing)


Standing just outside of the nook looking to the left. That wall is originally where I thought the screen should go...


Standing in the roughed in bathroom looking at the back half of the basement


In the corner by the electrical panel looking back at the stairs and the furnace room area


I will work on a second drawing this week

Thank you in advance for the support of this great community. I will be sure to pay it all forward as I build my skill set!

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post #6 of 41 Old 08-27-2013, 08:59 PM
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I know from my post count you will question my expertise (as well you should!) but I've been lurking here for a few years and have read several threads in preparation for my eventual build. Do take what I say with a grain of salt and verify as every space is as different as their owners and it's YOUR space so you get to make the decision ultimately. I just thought I could present you with some options to consider.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bigfelter View Post

I am getting better at using Sketch Up and worked today on doing up my first option for where the theater room can go. This option has several pros and cons:

Pros:
  • This way the theater is 14' wide. The other major option I have will be only 12' 7" wide, but ends up being a lot deeper

Cons:
  • It is pretty tight for space. I am going to do the screen distance calculation on it but the front row of seats is sitting 7'8" away from a 120" (105" wide) screen. In testing that it seems there will be a little head movement needed
  • The beam across the ceiling between the first and second row of seats means I have to mount the projector lower, and this doesn't leave a lot of room between the projector and the people seated in the rear row... it's probably OK but not ideal
  • I wanted to leave room for the enclosure behind the screen in case I want to upgrade to acoustically transparent at some point in the future. This design means I can't do that at all
  • The bathroom will have to be accessed from the other side (turning right as you come down the stairs through the furnace room... not ideal for ushering guests to the washroom

Going deeper but less wide may be an advantage acoustically. You can get really deep in the data if you review the "Acoustical Treatments Master Thread" in the stickies here but I seem to remember reading in there that, in general, it's preferable to have your sound travel in the longer/narrow direction vs. wide/not so deep. You could consider turning your theater where you have it by 90 degrees and make your nook a snack area/wet bar. Of course that could present it's own acoustical challenges unless you can find a way to close it off. If I've learned anything about basement theater builds it's that there is always a trade off on what you want to do vs. everything else (acoustics, screen size, etc.)

I like my images big. (I've even toyed with trying to create an IMAX like experience in my basement. Unfortunately it ain't gonna happen. Reclining would put my feet in the image path. Yes, I've thought about it that much, but I digress.) But even I think 7'8" might be a bit close to that screen. 9-10' would be more comfortable but would still give you that "front row" feel. Turning your theater 90 degrees will allow you to do this. I can't tell for sure but turning the theater might allow you to place the projector better and could give you an option for a door right to the bathroom from the theater?
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigfelter View Post

Hi W00lly smile.gif

Done and Done! Pictures below. Also these will be my before pictures. As for the screen you are so right I am very tempted, mostly what held me back is that I don't have my head around what television would look like on it vs. movies, and if I want to worry about a masking system etc. Rookie question for you but do I need to get an Animorphic lens to use the 2:35 x 11? My screen is still in the box so I shouldn't have any trouble returning it at this point. Is that something I just need look in the projector menu for?

You don't need an anamorphic lens if you use the "zoom" technique but you'll have to decide which you prefer. However, zoom is free, lens is not. Lots of info on this in the 2.35:1 Constant Image Height Chat.

You can use the calculator on Projector Central and some math to get an idea of what the TV size vs. scope size would be like. For example, if you go with an 11' wide scope screen (143" diagonal), your 16:9 diagonal size will be 112" (98" wide x 55" H) and you'll have vertical black bars on each side of the image if you don't use a masking system. If 3D is important to you at all you'll need to consider that many (not all) 3D movies are native 16:9, not scope. By the nature of how our brains work 3D makes it seem like the screen is a bit smaller so if 3D is important, it might be best to go with the biggest possible screen (although brightness could be an issue). See? Trade offs again.

As for the projector menu question, no, it's not that simple. The source (Blu Ray) has to be in 2.35:1 and it's likely you have some already. If you see letterbox bars when watching a movie on a 16:9 screen, it's likely 2.35:1. If you use a lens I think there is something your projector needs to be able to do in the menu. Review the CIH forum for the details though. P.S. Subtitles can be problematic with the "zoom" technique.

I won't say "I hope this helps" because I'm sure this will make your decisions that much harder. Good luck!

...
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post #7 of 41 Old 08-31-2013, 09:41 AM - Thread Starter
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Already great support wow guys! Thank you both. There are few things for me to consider there.

Here in very rough measured outlines, with screen set with three foot space behind the screen, and two rows of three wide seating added is roughly what I would be looking at. Looking at the entrance which would need be left of the stairs and i want to avoid walking right into the side of a set of seats I think that I need give up on the 3 foot space behind the screen. The room I think works far better if I move the seats three feet forward. I will put up several more shots this weekend but here is one:

LEAD Technologies Inc. V1.01

The door to the right side is to the bathroom and based on where the drainage is roughed in the location of the bathroom isn't optional. Also note the bedroom where the bed is still needs a wall separating it from the theater room in this photo.

Another issue is that this long and narrow version leaves me with 1'8" on either side of the screen. Not a lot of room for the towers and I was hoping columns (just enough room for base traps really)

Note how this layout makes putting the second row of seats on risers a little awkward to walk past. Almost makes you want to do whole back half of the room a few inches higher but I don't see that making sense with an unfinished height of 8 foot tall ceiling.

LEAD Technologies Inc. V1.01

Other ideas to research and think about: (goofy idea that I just may put in file)
One idea I had this week was the star ceiling. I know I want one, but I was thinking about maybe even extending to the front wall and or side walls. Wouldn't that be a neat effect. Each surface would have it's own control so you don't need leave the front wall on if you only want the ceiling....

Also I would like to see if there is a technology that would allow me to turn on or off a tone that would play when you enter the theater. Imagine the THX sound as an example, but not that one. Perhaps more like the first few seconds of Tron 2 before Jeff Bridges starts speaking about the grid. So this would take a motion sensor that would power speakers, and a playback device of some kind....

Thank you in advance for the support of this great community. I will be sure to pay it all forward as I build my skill set!

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post #8 of 41 Old 08-31-2013, 11:13 AM - Thread Starter
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Here are the measurements. I will describe it as:

  • The main rectangle for the deeper theater as you recommend is 27' 7" x 13' 1" to the outside wall studs
  • Looking at it the other way that rectangle at the screen wall could be as wide in parts as 15' 9" or 21' 3" depending on the size of the bedroom beside it and whether I put both windows outside the theater room or keep one inside the theater room and plug it.
  • If it weren't for the support poles you could consider the theater 15' 9" wide really and at least the first row of seats could take advantage of the whole space with maybe the second row needing to be a little left of center (not the end of the world)

anyway: thoughts?

LEAD Technologies Inc. V1.01

Thank you in advance for the support of this great community. I will be sure to pay it all forward as I build my skill set!

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post #9 of 41 Old 08-31-2013, 11:23 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by W00lly View Post

Bigfelter

I think you should be thinking bigger and go 2.35 x11' wide. Is your wife pretty much letting you do whatever you want ? tongue.gif

Sorry I didn't answer this question. Yes I have 'spousal support' but it loses tolerance very quickly, would be the best way to describe it. So I can do whatever I want with the basement so long as it costs nothing tongue.gif and looks like she wants it to when it is done rolleyes.gif All kidding aside I would say yes I have freedom for any theater features that I would want in the final (cost the only factor).

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post #10 of 41 Old 09-01-2013, 05:30 AM
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what about height?
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post #11 of 41 Old 09-01-2013, 06:51 AM - Thread Starter
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To the bottom of the ceiling joists it is 8', the three beams that run across that you see are 7' to the bottom of them.

Thank you in advance for the support of this great community. I will be sure to pay it all forward as I build my skill set!

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post #12 of 41 Old 09-02-2013, 06:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigfelter View Post

Here are the measurements. I will describe it as:

  • The main rectangle for the deeper theater as you recommend is 27' 7" x 13' 1" to the outside wall studs
  • Looking at it the other way that rectangle at the screen wall could be as wide in parts as 15' 9" or 21' 3" depending on the size of the bedroom beside it and whether I put both windows outside the theater room or keep one inside the theater room and plug it.
  • If it weren't for the support poles you could consider the theater 15' 9" wide really and at least the first row of seats could take advantage of the whole space with maybe the second row needing to be a little left of center (not the end of the world)

anyway: thoughts?

LEAD Technologies Inc. V1.01


Perhaps these are design considerations you've already thought through but I'll throw it out there anyway incase not. And I hope I'm looking at your sketch-ups and interpreting the measurements correctly for this option.

Put the 3' space behind the screen and use an acoustically transparent screen. Front LCR speakers and your bass traps go into this space behind the screen.

Do a 12' wide screen (scope or 16:9, your preference). Although you will need to check if your projector will be bright enough for this. I think it might be but it may mean mounting around 16' from screen and zooming to achieve that. I could be dead wrong here though so definitely don't take my word for it.

Put your first row of seats parallel to your stairway. This should give you plenty of space behind it for the second row and you should even be able to keep the second row of few inches off the back wall if you desire. This will put your front row at a viewing distance of approximately 11'-12' (with a screen that size it will be a huge image) and it will put your entrance in front of the first row. In fact, maybe you can do an "L" hallway, move your entrance towards your screen a couple of feet and make a double door entrance between your posts?

Also, did you talk about your equipment closet yet? You could put that in the space under the stairs (but you'll want a slide out rack if you do) or use some of your nook space for that.

...
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post #13 of 41 Old 09-04-2013, 02:37 AM
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I'm not sure how big that screen is but I think I want 1:1 (width vs distance) for my front row

(of course I am saying this without any experience whatsoever other than commercial theaters)

seems like that first row is too far back.
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post #14 of 41 Old 09-05-2013, 06:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by W00lly View Post

In my theater my first row is about 13' from eyes to screen when reclined. On a 12' 2.35 screen and its huge

 

That's almost the exact ratio I will be having in my room.  I agree that when I demoed something very similar, it was a very large image to take in.  But I'm sure I'll get used to it!


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post #15 of 41 Old 09-06-2013, 09:56 AM
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I did some research on "Field of View" a couple months ago and in order to get that "cinema" experience you really need a 1:1 relationship of screen width to viewing distance.

I have yet to verify this at my local cinema (because we arrived late at the only movie we went to this year) but it feels about right.
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post #16 of 41 Old 09-06-2013, 10:42 AM
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That was my conclusion as well.  This is with a 2.35 screen, though.  With a 16:9 screen, way too big in the vertical dimension.  I verified my comfort with this ratio at a local Magnolia that had a theater set up in just this fashion.  Watched 20-30 minutes of movies there and was comfortable enough at that point to etch my room dimensions, screen size, riser size, riser height, etc. in stone.  It's built now (the basic framework), just has to be finished!


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post #17 of 41 Old 09-07-2013, 11:52 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks everyone for the comments. for some reason I wasn't getting the notifications this week so I didn't see the responses! This weekend I will get some more time for design and responding to the comments posted and get this thread kicked into high gear.

This week I found a great deal on a two seater home theater dual recliner. It was delivered Thursday (along with some furniture for upstairs). Thanks to my lovely wife for grabbing it for us! this means that the front row will be larger, two seats, and the second row will be a smaller three seater. So those are both here, and as mentioned before the screen and all the audio equipment are here. The projector and receiver I brought with me from the last house so we are ready to rock. Need to order the building materials next! so I guess I better this design done.

Comments on the Screen:
I fully agree with all of you guys on changing the screen to a 2:35:1 screen, and maybe even acoustically transparent. I am on the phone with Visions right now seeing if they will accept an exchange (I bought my equipment before leaving BC and moving to AB so different province might be an obstacle). Just got off the call and they are going to call me back Monday with what the swap would cost me.... thanks everyone. Getting excited about the wider screen now!

Comments on the room layout:
Dammed if that reversal of what I was thinking doesn't look darn good W00lly. The pros you listed, the cons would be that I have to plug (permanently) that window which I had hoped to avoid but certainly can (meaning I wanted to plug it but build the plug it could be removed if needed or for selling the house), and the bathroom entrance will be to the left of the screen. That said I can always consider a curtain treatment like in some other cinema's I have seen to hide the door with a matching pillar and curtain on the other side of the room in front of a wall. I am going to sit down now and draw that out.

Thank you in advance for the support of this great community. I will be sure to pay it all forward as I build my skill set!

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post #18 of 41 Old 09-07-2013, 12:10 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by W00lly View Post

I will post up my thoughts later tonight but I agree with CyclistMT you need to go longer. I have the panny 4000 and zoom onto a 12' screen 2.35 with no problems

Honestly I missed that I could even zoom and therefore use a 2.35:1. I took a look at Panasonic's comments on my projector and it looks like I should be able to do it just fine with my current projector if I am reading this right:

"The projector’s Intelligent Lens Memory feature makes it possible for the user to easily program up to six different zoom/focus positions. Automatic switching between 16:9 and 2.35:1 video content is also possible thanks to the signal aspect detection capability on the PT-AE7000U"

- Can someone confirm for me that I have this right?
- To do this would I set it up with the ideal projector distance just considering the 2.35-1 setting?

Now for projector placement how does this plan impact this? Also if I were to consider an anamorphic lens at some point in the future would this mean the projector would need to change distance from the screen at that point? If so I could take that into account in the design if I knew what I was building for.

These questions feel dumb but I will post anyway... maybe I just need go plug in the projector and play with the settings lol.

Thank you in advance for the support of this great community. I will be sure to pay it all forward as I build my skill set!

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post #19 of 41 Old 09-07-2013, 12:30 PM - Thread Starter
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I posted this question in another thread asking about using "Acouti-Seal" sound reduction adhesive instead of Green Glue (in addition to using as an acoustic caulk to seal between drywall sheets).

I will copy it here in case anyone sees it here easier as that was an old thread I replied to:
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Originally Posted by bigfelter View Post

I know this is an older thread, but I have the same question. Here is the product that the OP was asking about (photo below). More specifically I would like to know if this could be a replacement for Green Glue? I figure Green Glue has got to be a brand name like "Kleenex", and perhaps there are alternatives right? I understand that my nose might be a little rougher for using a competitor to Kleenex but a good portion of the results are the same. (Note that LePage is very common in Canada for adhesives so a company that has been around a long time - (an American company though)).

So are there alternatives to Green Glue, and if not this product what might they be?



As the Op said one of the comments on the side of the bottle says: "...It also provides an efficient seal to aid in the reduction of airborne sound transmission in wall assembly systems".

Last note: The cost is about 1/8th of green glue. This would change the Green Glue part of my project by a cost savings of about $1000+

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Big Felter's home theater build thread
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post #20 of 41 Old 09-08-2013, 11:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Well this weekend I spent a ton of time drawing out a few other ideas. I ended up with this floor plan (here are a few shots). This is not a final, and most importantly the decorative elements are for feel only. The next thing that I will do is draw out the theater with ideas like curtains that will cover openings and doors and the tray ceiling. My wife wanted to see if we could have a row of bar tables and stools at the back for tabled seating (kids eating for example), and also if we could fit a round table for playing a game or something in the nook. The nook area will probably be sectioned off with a wall, or curtains so I am not worried about that, but I am not sold on the bar table at the back.

LEAD Technologies Inc. V1.01

LEAD Technologies Inc. V1.01

LEAD Technologies Inc. V1.01

Base traps and equipment behind the screen (pending a price on a screen swap from the guys at Visions)
LEAD Technologies Inc. V1.01

LEAD Technologies Inc. V1.01

LEAD Technologies Inc. V1.01

Odd angle on this one but you can sort of see the equipment stack under the stairs and a small door I would need to get at it from the side to get behind the equipment rack. I also put a vent in the wall that I could put a fan against and ensure good air circulation in the room. I like this better than a slide out rack... I think.

LEAD Technologies Inc. V1.01

LEAD Technologies Inc. V1.01

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post #21 of 41 Old 09-12-2013, 07:38 PM - Thread Starter
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Here is the answer from the other thread on the green glue alternatives.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1066045/anyone-use-lepage-acousti-seal-caulk#post_23716804

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post #22 of 41 Old 09-12-2013, 07:46 PM - Thread Starter
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BTW don't worry the kitchen area will be separated from the theater.

I am starting to look for some design elements in movies and around town. Even at the Eagles concert tonight the stage had a neat look that would look pretty cool.



I am thinking about the back wall looking like this Star Trek ID shuttle bay door.



Also thinking about how to convert these design elements of the enterprise to a dark colour scheme for the side walls. Note that I won't be going for an overall star trek theme but have decided I am going to look for design elements from my favourite films as well.


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post #23 of 41 Old 09-14-2013, 09:54 AM - Thread Starter
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Here is quick update with a nice curtain added to close off the bar area and the back row chairs changed out to a more modern chair. I think I have now decided instead of the curtain as is, to go with a half wall across that space where the cupboard are, and then perhaps only a doorway sized curtain or door. Will look at that now and begin to draw in the design on the back wall.

The more posts I read on the forum the more I learn about the value of planning first and building second to get a theater that is truly memorable. note that this can happen quicker with hired help to design of course but this will be just me (and with hopefully design ideas and support from the forum continuing).

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Here is what I am thinking for the back wall. Designing in 3D teaches you a lot about what you are going to build. It takes extra time and YES I am dying to just order the supplies and figure it out as I am building but I am trying to stay disciplined! (and I know it is slowing my thread as well but I will risk it). For example before I started the design phase I wasn't thinking ANYTHING like adding in a wall or elements like this. But now I am determined to do it. (note that I hid the seating and redid the back riser for this picture and extended the wall to leave only a doorway space to the bar area). what do you think?

LEAD Technologies Inc. V1.01
LEAD Technologies Inc. V1.01
LEAD Technologies Inc. V1.01
LEAD Technologies Inc. V1.01
LEAD Technologies Inc. V1.01

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post #25 of 41 Old 09-14-2013, 01:59 PM
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Have you laid out some blue tape on the floor yet? As I don't think you are going to have room for a 3rd row bar and chairs. I guess it's really going to depend on what type of seating you do for your 2nd row.

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post #26 of 41 Old 09-14-2013, 03:22 PM - Thread Starter
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Here is the final for the back wall:

LEAD Technologies Inc. V1.01

I was taking notes of the pieces that I would need to cut as I built it up. I also tried to build it up as I would in real life which changes how you build it slightly. Right now I am thinking of a combination of drywall, styrofoam, and MDF layers to build it up. Looks like I am going to need some expertise on how to run more complex LED arrangements. If anyone knows of the guy to ask please let me know. Otherwise I will begin the research on the forums.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by W00lly View Post

Have you laid out some blue tape on the floor yet? As I don't think you are going to have room for a 3rd row bar and chairs. I guess it's really going to depend on what type of seating you do for your 2nd row.

Shhhhhh don't tell my wife. then when we build it, it just wont fit. Nah just kidding. OK W00ly I will do that. That said I am pretty confident it will fit because using the 3D modeling I am building this in exact scale right down to the furniture. For example while mine are black not brown in color the two seater and three seater theater furniture is exactly the dimensions of mine in the real world (I modified an existing chair to get a two seater and the right width). Same for the stools and tables.

Now where what you are saying is sinking in..... is that no matter how accurate this drawing is I still need to sit in the space and think it through and think about humans in the actual space right? ..... Here is what I will do. I am going to get to room within a room wall build stage and then before I build any further I will tape it all off (before sub floor or even drywall and give myself the time to correct if needed). Sound like a plan?

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post #28 of 41 Old 09-14-2013, 03:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Here are pictures of my first two (and to W00ly's points perhaps my only two rows) of seats:

The back row we got for $100.... yes $100 from Craigslist from a couple that didn't have a need for it in their new home (Thanks Tim for hauling it back with me smile.gif ). My wife saw the post go up within minutes and thanks to my buddy Tim we got there first. The front row two seater we just bought as I mentioned before (thanks Dear).

And yeah W00ly the front row fully reclined is 6'6" long.... I think that nixes the back row eh. The only difference is that we only sat about 6' away from our screen in our first basement home theater (see first picture in this thread) and we really enjoyed it. So even at 8 or 9 feet with the wider screen I have some room to play there (or may).




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post #29 of 41 Old 09-15-2013, 09:38 AM - Thread Starter
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further design element tests using the enterprise hallway design down the one wall. I am thinking I would not duplicate down the other side as there are too many doors to cover and the doors are in different positions, and it also might just be overdone if I were to do it that way, but will need to figure out what I would do with the other side...

LEAD Technologies Inc. V1.01
LEAD Technologies Inc. V1.01
LEAD Technologies Inc. V1.01
LEAD Technologies Inc. V1.01
LEAD Technologies Inc. V1.01

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post #30 of 41 Old 09-15-2013, 10:13 AM - Thread Starter
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Although I am thinking how much nicer this look from another member would be:

I could keep the back wall and leave that as the only heavily detailed piece and then do the acoustic panels and walls otherwiselike this
LEAD Technologies Inc. V1.01

simply gorgeous.

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