Good online or local resources for veneer? - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 14 Old 08-31-2013, 02:25 AM - Thread Starter
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Hello there,

I am in the middle of a dedicated theater build and have been looking at purchasing some veneer for my soffits and some detail work in the room. I have been searching the internet for a good source for veneer for this application. The soffits are MDF.

I am a little confused as to what I should be looking for in a veneer. I do know I need long thin strips. I am thinking of a simple clean grain that I would stain and finish possibly dark walnut or cherry.

Pictures are as follow . Sorry they are not do good!!!



Thanks in advance
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post #2 of 14 Old 08-31-2013, 08:32 AM
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you might take this question up to the DIY speaker forum as there a lot of guys there that use veneer. Just another random idea I will throw out, you might find it easier to buy 1/4 veneered plywood and attach to the MDF. If you never had a chance to read Sandmans theater project there was a lot of discussion of veneer. You might need someone to send you that thread as many of the pics have vanished.


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post #3 of 14 Old 08-31-2013, 10:46 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

you might take this question up to the DIY speaker forum as there a lot of guys there that use veneer. Just another random idea I will throw out, you might find it easier to buy 1/4 veneered plywood and attach to the MDF. If you never had a chance to read Sandmans theater project there was a lot of discussion of veneer. You might need someone to send you that thread as many of the pics have vanished.

Yeah, I was going back and forth between this forum and the DIY section. The soffit tray is going to have a side face on it although it doesn't show in the pic. so there would be a visual overlap the thickness of the 1/4" plywood at the edges.

I also thought about wrapping the soffits in the same faux leather fabric I used for my bump outs but I think that would be very expensive and a little tricky to seam.

Maybe painting the soffits would be an easier option but I would want to create a wood grain and I do not have a clue how to do that.
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post #4 of 14 Old 08-31-2013, 10:57 AM
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+1 painting like the bacon race.


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post #5 of 14 Old 08-31-2013, 12:19 PM
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Veneers can get expensive depending on wood species, grade and thickness............1/4 or 3/4" plywood might be better alternative as mentioned above.

Bring lots of patience..........glue/roller...............and wood working skills since the stuff is not easy to work with due to delicate nature. One mistake can leave you crying until the cows come home!

In addition, how would you trim out edges of veneer? IMHO, using/applying veneer like formica is a sight for sore eyes..............trimming edges is a must.

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post #6 of 14 Old 08-31-2013, 12:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by orcarola25 View Post



I also thought about wrapping the soffits in the same faux leather fabric I used for my bump outs but I think that would be very expensive and a little tricky to seam.
.

How about Ralph Lauren "Suede" paint.............would give similar details as faux leather.

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post #7 of 14 Old 08-31-2013, 02:24 PM
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I veneered my soffits, columns and trim in my theater (link in my signature).  It was a TON of work (way more than anticipated), but I love the results.  I almost gave up a couple of times, but stuck with it.  As others have mentioned, expect way more time, cost and difficulty.

 

I used a very thin paper backed white oak veneer with a pressure sensitive adhesive.  It made working overhead much easier. I can't imagine using contact cement overhead.  I did all of my soffits in place so that I could wrap the bottom up around the sides to make it look like one solid piece.  I used a veneer softener on the corners to get it to bend around the curve.  The trim and columns were veneered and stained before installation.  All stain was applied with a sprayer.

 

Another tip when veneering - you want to use a scraper to apply, not a roller.  Rollers are great for formica, but a scraper will help the wood adhere better with wood.



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post #8 of 14 Old 09-01-2013, 01:55 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks guys for your feedback. I have watched a few diy videos on veneering and was inspired by Rueben's popular theater build. It does seem like it would be a little challenging to do. I am at the point to where if a faux finish or suede paint gets me close, I am fine with that.

I am going to research painting techniques and see if I can go that route and be happy with it.

I know the pics. give a poor idea of what I am working with but my theater is a mess right now. But I will take some time to straighten up and take a few more pics. so you guys can see the rest of the room.

Thanks again smile.gif
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post #9 of 14 Old 09-01-2013, 01:59 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NGiovas View Post

I veneered my soffits, columns and trim in my theater (link in my signature).  It was a TON of work (way more than anticipated), but I love the results.  I almost gave up a couple of times, but stuck with it.  As others have mentioned, expect way more time, cost and difficulty.

I used a very thin paper backed white oak veneer with a pressure sensitive adhesive.  It made working overhead much easier. I can't imagine using contact cement overhead.  I did all of my soffits in place so that I could wrap the bottom up around the sides to make it look like one solid piece.  I used a veneer softener on the corners to get it to bend around the curve.  The trim and columns were veneered and stained before installation.  All stain was applied with a sprayer.

Another tip when veneering - you want to use a scraper to apply, not a roller.  Rollers are great for formica, but a scraper will help the wood adhere better with wood.

Great build by the way. Your theater looks really sweet. If I can get a good texture and color with paint, I am going to try and go that route. But, theres nothing like beautifully finished
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post #10 of 14 Old 09-08-2013, 06:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by orcarola25 View Post

Thanks guys for your feedback. I have watched a few diy videos on veneering and was inspired by Rueben's popular theater build. It does seem like it would be a little challenging to do. I am at the point to where if a faux finish or suede paint gets me close, I am fine with that.

Good call. Veneering is tough enough to get right on a workbench. I couldn't imagine trying to do it overhead!
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post #11 of 14 Old 09-09-2013, 07:20 AM
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Originally Posted by zacjones View Post

Good call. Veneering is tough enough to get right on a workbench. I couldn't imagine trying to do it overhead!

I thought the same thing .., lol

But if there is a will then there is a way biggrin.gif

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post #12 of 14 Old 09-14-2013, 04:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Mfusick View Post

I thought the same thing .., lol

But if there is a will then there is a way biggrin.gif

True. I am now finding that this wood graining using paint is not as easy as they make it look on youtube. biggrin.gif
I might just use some 1/4" cabinet plywood or something and stain it just on the underside of the soffits. Then pant the sides black and connect the two ends with 90 degree edge molding. Might work good.
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post #13 of 14 Old 09-16-2013, 06:57 AM
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Check what Sandman did in his thread on his columns... might help you

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post #14 of 14 Old 09-17-2013, 08:36 AM
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To answer the original question in the thread title, I purchase veneer online from VeneerSupplies.com. Paper-backed veneer is not terribly difficult to work with. With a good contact cement like Better Bond Titan DX (also available at Veneer Supplies) and a scraper, you can achieve very good results without having to vacuum press the veneer, and without having to fuss with the preparation of non-backed veneer. I find the contact cement method much better than PSA-backed veneer, too. I have yet to have a veneer delaminate on me due to a contact cement failure, and the paper back helps keep the cement from bleeding through and messing up whatever stain or finish you put on the wood surface.

As far as price, a 48" x 96" sheet of, say, 10-mil paper backed walnut veneer runs $64.10. A full sheet of 1/4" walnut plywood from an online source I use runs $74.24, and it needs to be cut down to ship. You would probably still need a substrate to put the 1/4" plywood on. A 3/4" MDF core walnut plywood runs $178.24, and still needs to be cut down to have it shipped. I dare say a $64 sheet of veneer bought online, a sheet of 3/4" MDF from Lowe's, and a quart of Titan DX will save $50 a sheet, and I can have the veneer laminated in a couple of hours.

As for the edges, I feel a thin strip of "real" hardwood to match the veneer works quite well.

If you want to test it out, I'd be happy to mail you a few scraps I have laying around the woodshop in the basement. I have walnut and cherry still, I believe. PM me your address and I'll mail you some. You can test it out at home and see if you like the look. You will need to supply your own glue. While I recommend the Titan for your final product, you can test it out with any contact cement from the hardware store.

It appears my hypocrisy knows no bounds.

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