Pednault's Place Theater Build - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 56 Old 09-04-2013, 01:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Changed the name to Pednault's Place Theater under a direct order from the "boss". biggrin.gif She said since I'm also finishing the game room, that it's a no-brainer to be called that. Our last name is Pednault, which is french and pronounced like Pedno.

First theater design was in a new home I designed (architect by trade), didn't happen, fast forward 2 years, bought a newly constructed home in January of 2012 and put in a couple of provisions for my dedicated theater during the build. My dad builds homes, so I got the chance to add some dedicated electrical outlets and coax to the closet under the central stairs which will be my future AV closet. Here is where I stand with the design of the room:









Took delivery of the 2x4's this past week and once I get the overall wall's laid out I'll start constructing the perimeter walls.

Here's a shot looking at the stairs/AV closet from where the back left corner of the HT will be (cell pic, sorry). Basically just in from of where I put the corner bass trap in the design above...



I'll update these lists as this project moves forward...

List of currently owned equipment:
Onkyo TX-NR515
Xbox Elite
Wii
Klipsch Reference RF-62 II (Mains)
TubaHT (Sub, and I might build another one later)
Bash 300W Sub Amp
Tritrix TL (for rears until I get the ceiling speakers installed)

List of equipment left to buy:
Projector
102" to 120" AT Screen (DIY?)
PS4
Klipsch RF-62 II (for center duties)
Klipsch RS-42 II (Side Surrounds)
Ceiling Speakers for Front Heights (If I decide to go with front heights)
Ceiling Speakers for Rear Surrounds (If I decide to go with rear surrounds)
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post #2 of 56 Old 09-07-2013, 06:40 PM - Thread Starter
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Cleaned out the area for the HT and taped approximately the size of the screen. As pictured it is a 108" (diag.)



The screen will actually be pulled away from the concrete wall by about 32" and be AT so that I can place my enormous subwoofer and my center behind it. I like to see my mains so those will be on a stage out in the theater and not behind the screen. I'm hoping that I can adjust my speaker distances to compensate for the difference and have it still sound okay. The stage will extend to behind the screen wall to the stud wall I'm building at the foundation wall.

I'm struggling with how to encapsulate the water tank because I need access to it to be able to service it and replace the water filter bi-annually. It's not drawn but you can see the relatively square closet at the top right of the floor plan here:





My concern is that when I change the filter water leaks out and spills all over the surrounding area. The shut off works fine but the remaining water in the line (about half a gallon) empties out into a bucket I have on the floor (removed before taking the pic). I'm trying to figure out a better solution for this so that I don't get water in my theater but still be able to service the filter/tank. In my sketches above I've simply enclosed it within a small closet with an access door. Basically my thought is to construct the false wall such that I can easily remove the screen, set it aside, crawl through the opening in the false wall and access the filter housing through the access door. I'm also thinking if I do it that way, I could create a "bowl" using rubber mat and plastic sheeting around the interior of the closet to minimize, if not completely eliminate the potential for leaks out of the closet. Also, I've drawn it as a square but I could potentially angle a single wall in front of it (45 the corner) which could let me make better us of the space.

Does it make since to make a mirror of the water tank closet walls on the opposite side to keep symmetry within the acoustical volume? My concerns are that if I don't symmetrically build a false closet in the same shape as the real one, the left main will sound different than the right due to reflections. I have the RF-62 II's which are rear ported... Thoughts?
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post #3 of 56 Old 09-08-2013, 11:00 AM
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Is there a way to repipe and move the pressure tank out of there? Thinking of 10 scenarios with the tank in the HT, and 8 of them are bad....
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post #4 of 56 Old 09-08-2013, 04:43 PM - Thread Starter
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I know it... I'm going to look into replumbing it and moving it to the back corner of the storage space. Shouldn't be too bad. I'll just have to run the plumbing lines thru the wall of the HT.
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post #5 of 56 Old 09-16-2013, 08:16 AM - Thread Starter
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I'll be moving the water tank this coming weekend!

I built the wall along the stair wall and held it off by 1". And also built the return wall which creates the storage space. I'll be picking away at the other two walls over the course of this week. I plan on holding the walls along the concrete foundation walls by 2" to allow for the water inlet pipe run back to the storage room. I'll be wrapping the new pipe in insulation so that it doesn't create noise within the wall.









I also took some measurements while my son and wife were asleep to get an idea of the noise floor and frequency levels as a baseline. Next, I need to determine at what level above 50dB will be acceptable while they sleep...





My plan is to get the walls up, insulate with fiberglass batts, put up one layer of 5/8" drywall on the walls and ceiling using clips/channel, put down underlayment with OSB subfloor and then test again with some speakers pumping out full range pink noise to see if I'll need to add another layer of drywall with GG.
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post #6 of 56 Old 09-18-2013, 07:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Why no love for my project!?! frown.gif

Today, I purchased more lumber so that I can finish up the walls and start on the soffits. Trying to source 25 feet of 1-1/4" black plastic coil domestic water pipe so that I can move the pressure tank...
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post #7 of 56 Old 09-19-2013, 12:59 AM
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Best of luck with the tank move!

The rest is looking good so far...
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Under construction: the Larch theater
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post #8 of 56 Old 09-19-2013, 03:49 AM - Thread Starter
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Thank you! Found 1" so I'll just get reducers.
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post #9 of 56 Old 09-19-2013, 06:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acex008 View Post

Why no love for my project!?! frown.gif

.....

Might I suggest a name change? Also, a dimensioned layout might help with feedback as well. I'm not sure of the scale of things.

I think moving that tank will be well worth the time and effort. It should make things much easier to deal with.

Do I understand correctly that you are planning to use clips and channel on all four walls and the ceiling? Which clips are you planning to use?

Why are you planning for the speakers to be in front of the screen?

Interested to see how things go!

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post #10 of 56 Old 09-19-2013, 08:51 AM - Thread Starter
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Need some help with a good name for the theater! suggestions? my kid is 3.5 and likes superheroes, ninja turtles, etc so I'm leaning towards a slight superhero theme. The Batcave is over played so that's out. He loves Iron Man but not sure of a good name.

I'll post up some more drawings with dimensions. Essentially the finished room dimensions will be 12' x 19'-6" x 7'-3". The soffits will drop down by 6" to the finish. I plan on batt insulating the soffits as well.

The exisitng ceiling is all drywalled so it poses an interesting method of attaching the new framing. I've got some ideas that will decouple the new from the old which will truly create a room within a room. My only drawback is that I won't be dry walling between the new walls and the existing concrete walls (obviously I will on the theater side). I plan on building it with the methods I have in mind and testing to see if I will need to add more mass to the inside of the ceiling and walls. I'm obviously hoping not.

I'm not going to be listening to movies at reference levels very often, if ever, and I certainly won't be passing the 90dB (LFE) peak mark while my family is asleep. The noise floor has been measured at an average of 50dB's so that means I'll need to contain 37dB's within the theater. And that's two stories down so shouldn't be too much of a challenge.

I'm going to use RSIC-1's with 7/8" channel at the ceiling only and RSIC-DC04's to hold the top of the wall framing and fastening thru the existing drywall into the floor trusses No clips or channels at the walls. The soffits I'm building will be "hung" from the wall framing and therefore decoupled from the existing ceiling. I plan on sealing all the drywall edges and use backer rod with sealant between the large 1" joints.

The only "flanking points" will be at the drywall edges where the top of the wall and top of the soffits meet the ceiling but they won't be physically attached or touching. All edges will be sealed. The framing is completely decoupled. You'll see more of the construction methods after I get more framing done this weekend.

The rest of the framing is held away from any existing wall by at least 1". I'll be filling the existing stair wall stud cavities with insulation as well as sealing up the gaps and wrapping the electrical boxes. The little storage space under the stairs will be finished out as well to create a hidden/fire rated storage closet for important documents and valuables.

The mains are out on the stage so I can admire them. The center will most likely be another single RF-62 ii.
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post #11 of 56 Old 09-19-2013, 09:31 AM
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Let's see how big an iron man fan you are smile.gif How about

Just A Rather Very Interesting Screen - Theater Build

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post #12 of 56 Old 09-19-2013, 12:59 PM - Thread Starter
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The JARVIS theater!!!?!

Brilliant! I was thinking of Stark Theater and pushing a technologically advanced theme as much as my budget will allow... Also, try to keep with Tony's avant-garde architectural style. It would be really cool to create a complete different room than the rest of my house which is a bit more traditional. Let me run with this and see what I can come up with. Thanks!
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post #13 of 56 Old 09-20-2013, 05:38 PM - Thread Starter
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Got the rest of the materials I need to move the tank this weekend and stood up another wall tonight. I've sent an email to SPC so I can order my wall and ceiling clips. Once those come in I can start framing the soffits. While I wait, I'll do the electrical rough in and start insulation the walls. I can also start working on the AV closet and the hidden closet. I bought two 10 foot lengths of 1-1/2" electrical conduit to run from the AV closet to behind the false wall and a run to the PJ's future hushbox. But now I'm thinking I might just run a complete loop of conduit around the inside of the soffit and put in T's at drop points... I'll put in pull string to make pulling wires now and in the future a simple task. I don't plan on shopping for a PJ or screen until I get closer to finishing so that I'm not tempted to just hook it up! I know what that will do, so I refuse! cool.gif

I've been researching some ideas around the Iron Man theme and am getting excited with some pretty cool features! My main concern though is that I don't want to OVER theme the decore. I find that overly themed rooms tend to lose their luster rapidly and get dated REALLY fast. So, I may just go with a Tony Stark, modern architectural theme instead, which would get dated, but certainly not as quickly as a full blown Iron Man themed room. I think it would be super cool at first, but I'd get bored of it. The modern theme would lend itself better anyhow and wouldn't cost as much. At least from initial research and thoughts. Anyhow, I've got some really unique design ideas, some of which I will keep a secret until revealed in the build!!!

Oh, I've forgotten to mention that I plan on only a 3 seat reclining love seat for the front row and a couple of cumfy executive office chairs for the back "row" with a bar. The riser will function as a bass trap and I'll be filling the stage with sand.

I've learned more on this forum than any other single source on this topic and I'm obsessed with it. This theater will hopefully be a very enjoyable space for me and my family and I love that I can DIY it, otherwise, it honestly wouldn't happen on my measly budget. I'm not setting a budget for this build as I do odd jobs/projects here and there part time and use all the extra cash I get to fund the HT build. I install car audio for people as a part time job. I also write resumes and other professional documents. This is all above my career as a project manager at an architecture firm. Alright, enough gloating!

I picked up seven can lights from Home Depot last night that were normally $13 each for only $24 total!!! They're bronze trim, which I would have prefered black, but I can either paint them or make us of bronze in the rest of the decor. We shall see! I also got electrical boxes, black outlets and cover plates and I'm about to place my monoprice order! Sorry for the rambling but I'm so excited to be actually posting to my OWN build thread with ACTUAL construction progress!!! Woohoo!!
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post #14 of 56 Old 09-21-2013, 03:38 AM
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What is your lighting layout, and what are your plans for hvac?

Also, get another RF-52 and put them all behind the screen. There is no reason to go with a horizontal center when you have an AT screen.

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post #15 of 56 Old 09-21-2013, 09:52 AM - Thread Starter
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Yeah, actually I have the 62's and plan on getting one more instead of the horizontal center.

Interesting that you bring up lighting and HVAC as those are the two areas I need some help with.

As for the lighting layout, you can see the three cans in the soffit just in front of the screen. I'm also putting one centered between the false columns on each side of the room and two at the back, centered. Going with a unique approach to the ceiling which I'm not ready to reveal yet, but it will have a light as well. I plan on rope lighting at the perimeter of the riser lip to keep on during movies for those that need to leave the room during viewing.

Zone 1 = Cans (should I split the ones at the screen off from the other four within the room?)
Zone 2 = Rope light around the riser edge
Zone 3 = Ceiling accent light (think of this as the typical rope light in the cove of the soffit, but it won't be... biggrin.gif)

Now for control of these lights, how should I control them? Keep in mind, I don't want to spend a small fortune on lighting since it'll be off most of the time. And honestly I don't mind using dimmers/switches at the door. But if it's relatively affordable I would love to be able to control them from my seat either with a separate remote or my iPad or a universal remote.

For the HVAC, I haven't really given too much thought to it other than saving the section of the dead vent from Ted's site that others have built to my ideas folder. Not sure how many I would need though; would one exhaust version and one intake version be enough? All of the AV equipment will be in a separate room (AV closet) with the exception of the PJ. The PJ will be installed within a hush box that will have a fan or two that'll exit into the storage space. So, how much ventilation will I need if 6 people are in the room? I don't have the $ to drop on a recovery system, nor a split AC system so I'm hoping just two dead vents will be sufficient (one pulling air into the theater from the adjacent room and the other pulling air out of the theater into the adjacent room)... Thoughts?
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post #16 of 56 Old 09-21-2013, 11:17 AM
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Yes, plan on separating the screen cans from the perimeter cans. You want to have the flexibility of keeping the perimeter cans on (but dimmed) during sporting events while the screen cans are off.

How many cans do you have planned for the sidewalls? Just one between the columns or were you thinking of a 2nd between the column and screen? If you were planning one up by the screen, either keep it on the zone with the other screen wash lights or eliminate it all together. You won't be able to keep that dimmed with the other perimeter lights without washing out the screen (spoken from experience).

I went with Insteon to control my lights and am able to use either a small keypad by the door or my remote. You don't have as many zones as I do, so it would be a pretty affordable option for you. There are certainly many other choices as well.
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post #17 of 56 Old 09-21-2013, 12:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acex008 View Post

..........
For the HVAC, I haven't really given too much thought to it other than saving the section of the dead vent from Ted's site that others have built to my ideas folder. Not sure how many I would need though; would one exhaust version and one intake version be enough? All of the AV equipment will be in a separate room (AV closet) with the exception of the PJ. The PJ will be installed within a hush box that will have a fan or two that'll exit into the storage space. So, how much ventilation will I need if 6 people are in the room? I don't have the $ to drop on a recovery system, nor a split AC system so I'm hoping just two dead vents will be sufficient (one pulling air into the theater from the adjacent room and the other pulling air out of the theater into the adjacent room)... Thoughts?

I would highly recommend that you get this worked out sooner than later! Trying to keep the room cool with passive cooling requires significantly more air than if you can use cooled air from your AC. There is a thread that popped up recently where someone calculated how much air it would take for passive cooling, and it was north of 1,000 cfm IIRC. It is VERY difficult to keep that much volume quiet coming into and out of your room. Compare that to the roughly 100 cfm you would need to keep the room cool for six people if you can tap into an HVAC supply.

I'm not saying dead vents won't work, but it is much more difficult.

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post #18 of 56 Old 09-21-2013, 01:37 PM - Thread Starter
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Okay, so I'll zone the screen cans separate. Thanks for the tip. And there are no cans between the column and the screen. Only between the columns and two at the back of the room. So now I'm at 4 zones. If I went with just hard dimmers by the door, it would be about $100 as compared to over $300 for a four zone Insteon system... I looked at the Iris system at Lowes and liked it, which is pretty much the same system as Insteon's but with a monthly fee. Prices for the devices were relatively comparable but I don't know if I want to spend the money on it. Could I just install all the lights using the zones I've planned out and install dimmers/switches at the door and get the Insteon or a similar control system later? As long as the wiring to the zones are put in place, can't I just replace the dimmers/switches with Insteon versions and get the hub and be good to go? That way I can get the theater up and running and buy the more robust lighting control system when funds allow or someone wants to buy me a gift! biggrin.gif Is that feasible?

I found some real theater seats locally on CL. Getting 8 seats (two rows of 4) for $150! Here is the pic the seller emailed to me:



They are 7'-10" wide in total so I may have to break them down into rows of 3. We'll see how many I can squeeze onto the 8 foot wide by 6 foot deep riser... Hoping for 6! There may be some "bad" seats but they'll mostly be used for sporting events and the occasional family gathering.

Just going with a reclining sofa for the front row. I like that I could lay down across the couch rather than being forced to recline in a chair. Plus, it'll save me some $.

I'm not sure what to do about cooling the room then. My house has a forced hot water heating system through baseboard fins and there is currently no heat in the basement. I have no central AC system either. And after I buy insulation, clips, channel and a more lumber I'll be out of cash for a little while. So... What to do about cooling the room.................... confused.gif
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post #19 of 56 Old 09-21-2013, 02:37 PM
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What is the summer temp of your basement?

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post #20 of 56 Old 09-21-2013, 05:40 PM - Thread Starter
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No clue. Should have taken temps this past summer. I'll get a thermometer down there this week and get some readings. I'd say its at least 10 degrees cooler on warm (75+) days. I'm in southern Maine in case it isn't listed on my profile. I can't remember if the slab is insulated or the walls. The theater is tucked into the corner where the foundation walls are full height and surrounded by fill. The room on the other side of the stairs is half height concrete walls with 2x6 walls with batts and a vapor barrier. As part of the project, I'm going to be finishing off that room too so I'll be adding a knee wall with batts. For heat on that side I'm just going to use an electric infrared fireplace. The WAF kicked in and forced me to finish off that room too or I couldn't build the theater. So, it eats into my theater funds, but it's that or nothing...

For arguments sake, let's say the basement temp is 65 when it's 75 outside. What does knowing that temp do for me?

My thinking is that with a group of people in the theater I could always just open the door and run a fan and just turn up the volume to drown it out. When there's a lot of people, they tend to talk a lot which pisses me off, but that's what happens. Let's say it's just me and one other person in the theater... What would I need for climate control in that case?
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post #21 of 56 Old 09-22-2013, 04:40 AM
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You should reconsider your HVAC plan. Your room is 1700cf. A person at rest (not yelling and jumping around during the Superbowl) generates 350 Btu/hr.

With 5 people, 60w of lighting (3 cans dimmed to 20w ea) and the projector, your theater will rise 21 degrees in one hour.

The Black Cat theater is the go-to thread for passive cooling. He compiled an impressive amount of empirical data on the subject.

The amount of air required to cool the room is based on ΔT. I won't do the math, but you can imagine how much more air you need when you're flowing air from the basement to cool rather than conditioned air from an air conditioning unit. Note well that your equipment, although not in the room, will be increasing the temperature of the remainder of the basement, as will the air you are exhausting from the theater.

Yes, you can exhaust this directly outdoors from the equipment closet, but the difference is made up through the infiltration of exterior air, which will be 75 degrees.

A 100w light bulb is equivalent to 1 person at rest. Put 7 100w bulbs (5 people + 200w for projector) inside the theater with the door open and fan on.. and experiment.

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post #22 of 56 Old 09-22-2013, 07:12 AM - Thread Starter
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Just ordered two Panasonic Whisperline FV-30NLF1 340cfm fans. I'm going to work on the duct routing design over the next few days before I frame the soffits. My initial thoughts are to place the fans within dead vents. One for supply and one for exhaust. The inlet for the exhaust will be at the back of the theater within the soffit and outlet will be at the floor level of the adjacent room. The outlet for the supply will be over the screen within the soffit in the HT and the inlet will be at the floor level of the adjacent room. This way I'm pulling the coldest air from the adjacent room into the theater and pushing the warmest air out. I will place a window AC unit (or two) in the adjacent room when needed to condition the air. This system, in effect, will condition the entire basement with dead vents being the link between the two spaces.

Thoughts? I've PMed the OP of the Black Cat theater with some questions. Also, when the "Big Game" is on, the door to the theater will be open anyhow since the party will use both spaces (bar area in the adjacent room). Since the "Big Game" is during the winter, I can open the outside door which is up about 42" from the floor level, so it'll dump in very cold air, and I can also open the two windows. If that isn't sufficient I'll just kick people out until it gets comfortable! biggrin.gif
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post #23 of 56 Old 09-22-2013, 07:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acex008 View Post


I'm not going to be listening to movies at reference levels very often, if ever, and I certainly won't be passing the 90dB (LFE) peak mark while my family is asleep. The noise floor has been measured at an average of 50dB's so that means I'll need to contain 37dB's within the theater. And that's two stories down so shouldn't be too much of a challenge..

Do what you can to lower that noise floor.... Ideally to below 30 db. 50 db is really, really high! Did you measure near a furnace or such?

At your current noise floor and your max output, that's a pretty limited / crappy dynamic range.

Shouldn't be a huge issue as I'm sure you're sealing this room off from the rest of the basement.

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post #24 of 56 Old 09-22-2013, 09:04 AM
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I'm not a fan of the Panasonic fans. I finally broke down and pulled the 490 cfm version I had out. I suppose it's still to be determined if the noise I'm hearing is a direct result of the Panasonic design, of if it present with inline fans in general. At any rate, I would plan to put the fan as far from the room as possible. In my case, the fan makes a low frequency broad spectrum rumbling that is very difficult to dampen out.

I'm hesitant to make any recommendations because I'm not familiar with your climate. A house without central air is a completely foreign concept to me these days. That said, if you can find enough space to use both of those fans as exhaust fans, that may well be enough volume to keep the room cool. If you're planning to keep the door open when there is more than two people in the room anyway, having one fan on the supply and one on the return may be enough to keep the room comfortable with two people.

I don't remember for certain, but I think that can has a 6" inlet and outlet. You need to plan on upsizing the duct to an 8" or 10" to keep it quiet. You are shooting for 250 feet per minute. If you use a 6" it's going to be loud!

I think Tim has the right idea. You need to do some testing to see just how much air you will need to move to keep the room comfortable.

Dude, are you made of leprechauns? Cause that was awesome!

The Plains Theater Has Begun
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post #25 of 56 Old 09-22-2013, 09:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acex008 View Post

I'll be moving the water tank this coming weekend!

I built the wall along the stair wall and held it off by 1". And also built the return wall which creates the storage space. I'll be picking away at the other two walls over the course of this week. I plan on holding the walls along the concrete foundation walls by 2" to allow for the water inlet pipe run back to the storage room. I'll be wrapping the new pipe in insulation so that it doesn't create noise within the wall.









I also took some measurements while my son and wife were asleep to get an idea of the noise floor and frequency levels as a baseline. Next, I need to determine at what level above 50dB will be acceptable while they sleep...





My plan is to get the walls up, insulate with fiberglass batts, put up one layer of 5/8" drywall on the walls and ceiling using clips/channel, put down underlayment with OSB subfloor and then test again with some speakers pumping out full range pink noise to see if I'll need to add another layer of drywall with GG.
Looks good, can you tell me what you used to measure your noise floor?
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post #26 of 56 Old 09-22-2013, 10:24 AM
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You to want to aim for a 22 db noise floor in the theater. And it is a challenge to get that number.
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post #27 of 56 Old 09-22-2013, 10:25 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post

I'm not a fan of the Panasonic fans. I finally broke down and pulled the 490 cfm version I had out. I suppose it's still to be determined if the noise I'm hearing is a direct result of the Panasonic design, of if it present with inline fans in general. At any rate, I would plan to put the fan as far from the room as possible. In my case, the fan makes a low frequency broad spectrum rumbling that is very difficult to dampen out.

I'm hesitant to make any recommendations because I'm not familiar with your climate. A house without central air is a completely foreign concept to me these days. That said, if you can find enough space to use both of those fans as exhaust fans, that may well be enough volume to keep the room cool. If you're planning to keep the door open when there is more than two people in the room anyway, having one fan on the supply and one on the return may be enough to keep the room comfortable with two people.

I don't remember for certain, but I think that can has a 6" inlet and outlet. You need to plan on upsizing the duct to an 8" or 10" to keep it quiet. You are shooting for 250 feet per minute. If you use a 6" it's going to be loud!

I think Tim has the right idea. You need to do some testing to see just how much air you will need to move to keep the room comfortable.

These are the 340 cfm models, so not sure if they're smaller/less noisy than your bigger one... We shall see! Yes, they have 6" connections and I agree on upsizing the duct runs.

Is there a way to calculate what size/length of duct I need to go with in order to hit the 250'/m number?

Also, is there some sort of calculation I can perform to pick the right vent size within the room so that it doesn't whistle?
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Originally Posted by thebland View Post


Do what you can to lower that noise floor.... Ideally to below 30 db. 50 db is really, really high! Did you measure near a furnace or such?

At your current noise floor and your max output, that's a pretty limited / crappy dynamic range.

Shouldn't be a huge issue as I'm sure you're sealing this room off from the rest of the basement.

What do you mean about a limited/crappy dynamic range?

The frequency graph was a snapshot in time of what my bedroom is like during normal sleeping times. The 50dB is as measured from about 2" away from my wife's ear as she slept (held the phone by her head without her knowing...). We leave a small fan running on my nightstand through the night as a white noise for better sleeping, even during the winter so it's truly 365/year. I can't sleep without a fan running since I was an infant. My wife has taken on the same "issue" and can't sleep without it on. Anyhow, the 50dB's is considered a max across the frequency spectrum as indicated by the full FR plot (the highest dB is around 42 in that plot so not sure where the 50dB's comes from using the other iPhone app)... You will also notice that there aren't any LFE's going on and so anything below 80Hz is going to be my challenge. But with testing I'll be able to determine how to handle it if it doesn't work with just complete decoupling the walls and ceiling and a single layer of 5/8" rock. My only option however will be adding more mass, but I'll cross that bridge when I get there, but at least I'll be performing some testing before finishing the room.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Expat444 
Looks good, can you tell me what you used to measure your noise floor?

I used two iPhone apps:
RTA Lite
dB Volume

Although most likely not all that accurate, they will give me a point of reference as a baseline and a Δ in testing.

After doing some more research and receiving a PM back from the Black Cat theater owner, I think my purchase of these two fans will be adequate for my room. I just need to dampen them and figure out the duct run and sizing. After giving it some thought and envisioning how the room will be used, this should do the trick. Here is why...

Scenario 1:
When my wife and son are sleeping it will just be me in the room. My thoughts are that with just me inside and the door shut, I can enjoy a movie without needing to run the fans. This will lower the need to dampen the fans on the other end (adjacent room). I will obviously still want to dampen them so they aren't noisy within the HT though.

Scenario 2:
When my wife and son are with me in the room, we can run the fans, which should be enough to keep it comfortable. If not we can turn on the AC unit(s) within the adjacent room in the summer or open a window in the winter. If that isn't enough, we'll find something else to do!

Scenario 3:
When there are others with us we can run the fans and if it becomes uncomfortable we can open the HT door. If that still doesn't cut it we can turn on the AC unit(s) in the windows of the adjacent room. If that doesn't cut it, then my whole house would be uncomfortable anyhow!

When it got above 90 degrees this past summer, my basement was nice and cool. We run window AC units in the upstairs bedrooms and two on the first floor to cool the open floor plan (kitchen / living / dining). My thinking is that since my basement was already cooler than my upstairs while running AC units to maintain 68-72 degrees, I should be okay with my plans.

Now who can point me in the right direction to duct design? I'm willing and have the tools to build my own ducts using MDF and liner........
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post #28 of 56 Old 09-22-2013, 06:51 PM - Thread Starter
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So I've been gathering as much info as I can read and retain on ventilation systems for dedicated HT's. I'd like to list out the "rules of thumb" items to adhere to... Please review them and if they aren't accurate, please revise them with explanations! I'm hoping others can benefit from the development of my build and the feedback I get with this thread.

1. Stay at or below 250 feet per minute of velocity at the grilles. How is this achieved?
2. Add as much absorptive dampening as possible to reduce noise from entering into the duct run.
3. Enlarge or lengthen the duct to allow for more absorption, to change the impedance and therefore to minimize sound wave propagation through the system.

Any others?

I'm working on some diagrams I will post up in a few minutes of my initial design for my HT.

So the sketchup model I had just finished up showing the duct routing didn't save and so my 2 hours of design is gone. And the Autosave didn't catch it... mad.gif I'll draw it up by hand and scan it tomorrow.
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post #29 of 56 Old 09-22-2013, 08:23 PM - Thread Starter
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I think there was some confusion with my use of the phrase "noise floor". The measurements I have taken so far are from within my bedroom giving me a point of reference for testing the increase in dB's while the speakers are pumping down in the theater. My main concern is waking up my wife or son while I watch a movie or sporting event at night...

I'll measure the noise floor of the theater too, but not until I get it drywalled.
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post #30 of 56 Old 09-23-2013, 04:09 AM - Thread Starter
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It's amazing how heavy this stuff is!
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