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post #1 of 180 Old 09-06-2013, 09:22 AM - Thread Starter
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Updated! The blackout theater- 80% complete

above is my unfinished room. Thick parts are concrete, and outside wall (top) is wood insulated with spray foam insulation.I am closing off the small part on the left top side with the double doors.Room is 37 long and 17ft wide. I want to leave the large part of the room open and I would like to build a riser for the 2nd couch.I'm completely open for building material suggestions, as i have nothing but framing done.I'm not at all concerned about sound isolation, but i want to reduce or eliminate echo in the room with absorption/diffuse panels.I'm not sure what one is better, and where i should put them.Any suggestions?

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post #2 of 180 Old 09-06-2013, 10:46 AM
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drywall, then add acoustical treatments. You would benefit by drawing a layout of how you intend to set up your theater. Screen, Seating, Projector location and Speakers.
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post #3 of 180 Old 09-06-2013, 11:22 AM - Thread Starter
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cool how do i draw it? I'm not actually sure yet how. i had the house built with this way with the intention of a theater in the corner, but till now haven't thought exactly how.

what kinda acoustical treatments? i'm highly experienced in the home theater room building and speaker setup, sound levels, etc, in current rooms, but not at all about building a room for the exact purpose.
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post #4 of 180 Old 09-06-2013, 12:09 PM
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Probably the easiest free program to use is Google Sketchup. Might take you a morning to learn how to get around and start drawing.

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post #5 of 180 Old 09-07-2013, 02:41 PM - Thread Starter
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ok, how do i find the models of home theater type couches?
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post #6 of 180 Old 09-07-2013, 09:45 PM - Thread Starter
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ok here is a mockup, I have an HSU VTF 15H that i haven't added in the picture. i'm thinking of adding buttkicker to the platform. I have infinity Beta 50 speakers, already have all the electronics minus a good receiver. I've got about a $7,500 budget for just the room, and i can almost all the work myself minus the finishing of sheetrock.

Any advice for paneling and screens?


Thanks!
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post #7 of 180 Old 09-08-2013, 08:50 AM - Thread Starter
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also taking any input on the riser height etc.
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post #8 of 180 Old 09-10-2013, 09:38 AM - Thread Starter
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Ok, well I'm debating how exactly i want to do this, i'm looking at diffusing/absorbing all of the side walls, but don't know where to put which one. any input on that?
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post #9 of 180 Old 09-17-2013, 08:05 AM - Thread Starter
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Wouldn't it be better to leave the walls not sheetrocked and let let the acoustic absorption of the open cell spray foam i have aid in sound isolation?
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post #10 of 180 Old 09-17-2013, 10:06 AM
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I spray foamed my basement and the stuff they used was closed cell; when applied to a 2 inch thickness it also acts as a vapour barrier. As such, closed cell foam is a terrible choice for sound absorption. Even if it were good at absorption you are still missing the other three aspects of soundproofing. Mass, Decoupling and Dampening.

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post #11 of 180 Old 09-17-2013, 10:50 AM - Thread Starter
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I don't have closed cell, it's framed and sprayed with open cell foam. it's not reflective, and much different.
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post #12 of 180 Old 09-19-2013, 07:49 AM
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Open cell foam is not particularly absorptive, either - certainly no where near as good as fiberglass.

Besides, I 'm pretty sure even open cell foam needs to be covered with drywall for fire code regulations.
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post #13 of 180 Old 09-21-2013, 09:43 AM - Thread Starter
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they make a sound dampening sheetrock too... anyone ever use this?
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post #14 of 180 Old 10-07-2013, 11:55 AM - Thread Starter
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Well, here is the beginning of my actual construction. I'm building a riser on 2x8. Insulation should be here next week, already ordered 8 Realtraps for corners and ceiling corners.

Below the riser is a hardwood underlayment padding. Everything will be glued and screwed.

On the right i build a detached wall on 24", and would like to mount it to a full plywood wall. does there exist a product to screw spacers between the two walls?
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post #15 of 180 Old 10-12-2013, 09:13 PM - Thread Starter
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wow tough crowd :-/

i think i will use sound isolating board from HD to separate the floating wall from the plywood one to try to prevent reverb in the room (i don't care about sound escaping too much) then i will fiberglass inbetween the 24" 2x4's to fill in the gaps. affixed to this on the entire room i will have 2x4' framed acoustic panels wrapped in cloth.

anyone use these guys

http://www.seymourscreenexcellence.com/

I'm thinking of purchasing a curved 174" diagonal 2.35 screen from them. anyone use these? how does the picture work with non anamorphic projections on this type of screen?
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post #16 of 180 Old 10-13-2013, 10:18 AM - Thread Starter
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finished 1/2 the riser glued and screwed. used hardwood floor padding to prevent vibration on the concrete. two 2x8x6ft I'm separating it into 2 1/2 to leave a gap inbetween the two sides for access in the future and might consider some shakers mounted inside. Will stuff the whole thing with poly fill etc.
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post #17 of 180 Old 10-13-2013, 12:52 PM
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You usually finish the walls and ceiling before adding the stage and riser. It is easier, safer (ladder placement) and contains sound better. Trust me you will build your next theater that way.

I used a curved Seymour at the curve frenzy theater, it is a nice screen. Without an anamorphic lens in place it will distort the image a wee bit. the sides of the image will be shorter than the middle. So you let the middle fall on the velvet boarder of the screen.

you would need a light cannon to properly fill a 174 inch diagonal screen with a quality image.

your plans for the use of sound panels from Home depot and the overall wall construction sounds a little off, need more details. You only need to add carpet and cover 25% of the wall surface with absorptive material to get the reverb (RT60) in line with typical theater room goals.
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post #18 of 180 Old 10-13-2013, 03:02 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the tips. Sound isolation is fortunately no concern to me but I can still Sheetrock the wall before attaching the risers. I have 3/4" plywood on the outside of the right wall as the adjacent room will be a improvised storm room. Then I built another non support wall to place in front of the plywood (for symmetry). I don't want it to rattle against the plywood when the bass is hitting pretty hard. So I guess i will install that cheap 4x8ft sound isolation boards from Home Depot to allow mounting of the two walls together.

I'm framing the walls out to accept floor to ceiling panels with some 2x4 framed and cloth wrapped 703 foam, separated by columns.

I have carpet planned for the riser and whole room

Will my optoma 8200 not work on a screen this size with anamorphic lense? I hung it up at 22ft away just to mock and projected a movie on the unfinished wall, and it seemed ok. I figure looking in the future it's easier to upgrade the projector vs the screen, right?


Everything is up in the air so to speak, if I could find someone local near atlanta that does good consultations if probably pay them for the help.
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post #19 of 180 Old 10-13-2013, 04:10 PM
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I did a quick look at the image calculator at Projection Central for the Optoma 8200. The image brightness for a 16:9 65 inch tall image is right at the minimum recommend, 12 FL. you throw on a 2.40:1 bluray and move your anamorphic lens in place and you spread that image over a larger space and it is going to get dimmer. Don't even think about trying the zoom method for 2:40. it drops to 6 FL.
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post #20 of 180 Old 10-13-2013, 04:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Ok thanks again for all the help. I'll keep updating with pictures. Y'all probably find it amusing what a retired navy nuke electronics technician whom never used a miter saw before 2013 works out in his head for a room he builds himself. I'm slowly reading through the 100,000 articles here trying to learn as much as possible
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post #21 of 180 Old 10-22-2013, 07:54 AM - Thread Starter
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Ok so i put the risers on hold since what i built already isn't attached to the wall, i'm going to add some soundproof board between the risers and the wall, and i'm getting a general contractor to build a a surrounding ceiling tray for aesthetics. while that is on hold, i want to start building my acoustic panels. What is a good transparent cloth to use that i can purchase in bulk?
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post #22 of 180 Old 10-22-2013, 03:58 PM
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A couple of vendors sell appropriate material

Fabricmate.com
Acousticmac,cim

A big long time favorite is Guiliford of Maine (GOM) fabrics which include many suitable for wall panels, and some for speaker covering. You can view their offerings at their website as well as order free samples. Once you know what you want, you look around for the cheapest source as everyone will take your order and it ultimately ships direct from GOM distribution center. The vendors rarely carry an inventory because of the number of styles and color choices.
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post #23 of 180 Old 11-23-2013, 08:02 PM - Thread Starter
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Ok Big, I pulled the 1/2 riser off the wall, Ran all my electrical, speaker wire, and got a quote for a general contractor to sheetrock the room. I've got a double wall on one side (3/4 plywood, 1/2 fibrous sound board, another insulated wall, then will be sheetrocked) a subwall to recess the screen in the front, and will either do the soundboard and sheetrock, or double sheetrock with green glue on the other wall.

Just ordered swatches for fabric, and will order my screen some time next month.

Going to build all "sound" panels for aesthetics, but will alternate 20% absorption/ 20% diffusion/ blank panels, concentrating absorption at the first order reflection points.

Thanks for all your advice, it's a bit overwhelming to put it all together into a plan. wish there was a reputable installer around here.

Tested the PJ at the proposed location at night with just a 40w bulb on, 16:9 and 168" diag. It showed a good image with bright turned off, and @65% brightness level of the projector. Pics Included

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post #24 of 180 Old 11-23-2013, 08:51 PM
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Just a heads up not to overwhelm you more but your description of your approach to building the walls sounds less than robust, if you are expecting superior soundproofing you will be disappointed. If your expectations are lower full speed ahead.

My favorite site on the topic is soundproofingcompany.com
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post #25 of 180 Old 11-23-2013, 09:13 PM - Thread Starter
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i could care less about soundproofing, as the whole house is in the theater all the time anyway, or the kids are two floors up in bed. most of the one wall is designed to enclose the adjacent storm room on one side, the quiet brace board was to prevent vibration of the wall against the plywood from the bass, and also to square up the room for symettry as it was 4" off from the concrete to the open part. Also, i'm looking to double sheetrock the other wall because the noise of the siding vibrating against the outside of the house is sorta annoying and i want to prevent that noise to travel inside the room.

am i on the right track there?
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post #26 of 180 Old 11-24-2013, 05:48 AM
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The key to soundproofing is Mass, Isolation, Dampening and Absorption. Multiple layers of material certainly adds mass and is good. Mounting it firmly to framing that is connected to the rest of the house leads to hearing the subwoofers in the bedrooms two floors up. Sound board (Quiet brace board) is not effective at the frequencies we are interested in managing in home theaters.
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post #27 of 180 Old 11-24-2013, 06:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

A couple of vendors sell appropriate material

Fabricmate.com
Acousticmac,cim

A big long time favorite is Guiliford of Maine (GOM) fabrics which include many suitable for wall panels, and some for speaker covering. You can view their offerings at their website as well as order free samples. Once you know what you want, you look around for the cheapest source as everyone will take your order and it ultimately ships direct from GOM distribution center. The vendors rarely carry an inventory because of the number of styles and color choices.

Hey thanks! I've been reading hundreds of posts on AVS and never saw what GOM actually meant. I thought it was a type of fabric not necessarily a vendor. Now I know.
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post #28 of 180 Old 01-28-2014, 05:12 PM - Thread Starter
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is there anything i should do in particular to where the projector mounts to? I've got a joist to screw the mount to, but should i reinforce it in anyway before i add the ceiling? i thought about sandwiching around where i'm mounting the projector with osb to make it more rigid, but anyone have any suggestions on this?
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post #29 of 180 Old 01-29-2014, 02:08 PM
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If you have any of the material left from framing the riser run a 6-8 inch base plus and minus the joist you have in mind. Insert them running flat hanging flush with the bottom of the joists.
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post #30 of 180 Old 02-21-2014, 09:45 AM - Thread Starter
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so you talked me into it, i conversed with TED @ soundproofingcompany and did some suggestions, sheetrock with green glue against upstairs floor (between joists) double r19 bats, and will double sheetrock room with GG.
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