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post #61 of 101 Old 03-18-2014, 09:23 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrolicBeast View Post

...I remember our earlier discussions on my build thread about the Sony 600ES and it's brightness capacilities.  did you ever settle on your screen details (size.gain, etc?)

Right now, I'm planning on the VW600ES projector, But who knows what might come along in the next year or so?


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post #62 of 101 Old 03-18-2014, 09:53 AM - Thread Starter
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Unfortunate with the delay LeBon, but that wouldnt stop me from grabbing a case of beer and soakin in the view...
I can hear Otis in the background now... ... Sittin in the morning sun..... wink.gif



I hear ya!


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post #63 of 101 Old 06-03-2014, 12:56 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm back! I finally received a revised construction permit from the County of Monterey last Friday, and work started again yesterday. We had the foundations and floor slab done before we were stopped, so framing is going up as we speak. They expect to frame the walls and begin the roof within a week. We'll see.


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post #64 of 101 Old 06-03-2014, 09:53 PM
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Congrats on the Permit from "Peoples Republic of California"!

BTW, congrats on Stanford representing PAC-12 in Regionals.............rather than cutting trees in the next few weeks, I'll be cheering them on! wink.gif

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post #65 of 101 Old 06-07-2014, 12:32 PM - Thread Starter
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Framing is progressing. The theater area is where the plywood is stacked. You can see the rough openings for the projector window and the rack on the right side.


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post #66 of 101 Old 06-07-2014, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by LeBon View Post

Framing is progressing. The theater area is where the plywood is stacked. You can see the rough openings for the projector window and the rack on the right side.

You will love a first floor theater! wink.gif

Did you isolate the foundation from rest of house? Well worth the added cost keeping bass from getting to rest of home!

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post #67 of 101 Old 06-07-2014, 12:57 PM - Thread Starter
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The floor will be isolated with Serenity Mat, OSB and carpet. However, it is on an existing slab, and 3 walls are shear walls with earthquake hold-downs requiring special inspections, so I decided not to cut the slab, pour new foundations, etc. On some of the TV studios I built, we saw-cut the slab, or installed an expansion joint around the studio floors for vibration isolation.

They were putting up the shear panels today when I was over there. I will be away for a couple of weeks, so there should be significant progress next time I see it.


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post #68 of 101 Old 06-07-2014, 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by LeBon View Post

The floor will be isolated with Serenity Mat, OSB and carpet. However, it is on an existing slab, and 3 walls are shear walls with earthquake hold-downs requiring special inspections, so I decided not to cut the slab, pour new foundations, etc. On some of the TV studios I built, we saw-cut the slab, or installed an expansion joint around the studio floors for vibration isolation.

They were putting up the shear panels today when I was over there. I will be away for a couple of weeks, so there should be significant progress next time I see it.

Makes sense.........

Keep forgetting construction techniques vary regionally. Northwest we build crawl space foundations........... California and most arid states use slab........

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post #69 of 101 Old 06-19-2014, 01:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Shaping up

Things are starting to take shape now. Here is the view from my office window (adjoins the rear wall of the theater).
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post #70 of 101 Old 06-19-2014, 02:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LeBon View Post



Right now, I'm planning on the VW600ES projector, But who knows what might come along in the next year or so?
Well,

If your travels take you to Oregon, more than welcome to see an upgraded 1000ES......

After one year I'm really happy with projector and visitors can't believe quality picture it throws.
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post #71 of 101 Old 06-29-2014, 12:55 PM - Thread Starter
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The framing is complete in the theater. The jog in the ceiling at the front of the room allowed us to cheat the ceiling height a foot or so higher. The jog will be hidden behind the screen wall and the front soffitt.
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Last edited by LeBon; 06-29-2014 at 01:07 PM.
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post #72 of 101 Old 07-09-2014, 09:02 AM - Thread Starter
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I met with the HVAC subcontractor Monday at the jobsite, and went over the HVAC design. One of the issues we identified is that the Mitsubishi 12K BTU/hr ducted mini-split system in the theater uses a proprietary control system and controls. This may complicate (or even prevent) remote control of the HVAC unit. We want to be able to have the HVAC fans come on and stay on while the theater is in use. If I can't control this with my iRule remote control, I may have to switch to another brand of mini-split.

Does anyone have any experience with tying into the controls on a Mitsubishi mini-split?


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post #73 of 101 Old 07-09-2014, 10:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LeBon View Post
I met with the HVAC subcontractor Monday at the jobsite, and went over the HVAC design. One of the issues we identified is that the Mitsubishi 12K BTU/hr ducted mini-split system in the theater uses a proprietary control system and controls. This may complicate (or even prevent) remote control of the HVAC unit. We want to be able to have the HVAC fans come on and stay on while the theater is in use. If I can't control this with my iRule remote control, I may have to switch to another brand of mini-split.

Does anyone have any experience with tying into the controls on a Mitsubishi mini-split?
I think IRule can learn IR commands with the iTach Flex if I'm not mistaken. Does the Mitsubishi mini split have an IR remote?


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post #74 of 101 Old 07-09-2014, 11:11 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by JVoth View Post
I think IRule can learn IR commands with the iTach Flex if I'm not mistaken. Does the Mitsubishi mini split have an IR remote?
I am researching this, but I believe Mitsubishi uses Honeywell RedLink RF link. There is some sort of "Internet Gateway" for RedLink, but I don't yet know much about it. If I can access using ethernet, that would be ideal.


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post #75 of 101 Old 07-09-2014, 11:56 AM
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Most (read "some") iRules are using a gateway of some sort. The iTach Flex IS a gateway.

I have mine set up w/a flex and a 6 port (playing w/both of them, trying to decide on one vs the other), they're both "gateways". Technically I'd say they're media converters, but in essence all they do is convert from an ethernet connection to IR or RF. So a web enabled bit of software (iRule, or any others) can send a "signal" to your electronic. It doesn't really matter, as long as the coding exists for the manufacturer w/in the iRule developer's environment.

Granted, I have only about 30 hours of playing w/the iRule, but that's how I have seen it so far. If I were you, I'd just call iRule and ask if they support the Honeywell Redlink w/Mitsubishi codes. Everything else is gravy.

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post #76 of 101 Old 07-09-2014, 12:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LeBon View Post
I met with the HVAC subcontractor Monday at the jobsite, and went over the HVAC design. One of the issues we identified is that the Mitsubishi 12K BTU/hr ducted mini-split system in the theater uses a proprietary control system and controls. This may complicate (or even prevent) remote control of the HVAC unit. We want to be able to have the HVAC fans come on and stay on while the theater is in use. If I can't control this with my iRule remote control, I may have to switch to another brand of mini-split.

Does anyone have any experience with tying into the controls on a Mitsubishi mini-split?
I think you will find yourself leaving the minisplit on the whole time rather than turning it on and off when you use the theater. The main reason I say that is that it will take a while for the HVAC to bring the temp down/up to set point when you first turn it on. When we installed the mini in our showroom I thought I would switch it on and off too, but I just leave it on the whole time now.


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post #77 of 101 Old 07-09-2014, 12:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Nyal Mellor View Post
I think you will find yourself leaving the minisplit on the whole time rather than turning it on and off when you use the theater. The main reason I say that is that it will take a while for the HVAC to bring the temp down/up to set point when you first turn it on. When we installed the mini in our showroom I thought I would switch it on and off too, but I just leave it on the whole time now.
Sorry, didn't mean I would turn it off -- the thermostat would be left on to keep the room warm/cool. I meant that I would override the fans to run anytime the room is in use.


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post #78 of 101 Old 07-15-2014, 10:34 AM - Thread Starter
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Atmos Anxiety

I have been reading the posts around here about Atmos. Reminds me of quadraphonic stereo...

Anyway, I will probably throw in a couple of extra speaker wires to help out with things, should I ever decide to implement it. I have 4 unused DSP channels, so that would be covered. But I don't expect to implement anything now, just to let the smoke (and mirrors) clear to see what happens.

I'll be fortunate if I can still hear and see when all this gets resolved....


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post #79 of 101 Old 07-15-2014, 01:35 PM
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I am sure that much of the buzz has to do with the PR machine's build-up of excitement for the upcoming release of several early round Dolby Atmos products. At the very least I think that if you are in the early stages of building your theater, or like me in the early stages of planning your theater, it is worth becoming aware of the requirements (e.g. 5.1.2, 5.1.4, etc.) so that you can make your room ready. There are a couple of ways that the technology can be adopted to your room, but all of them require a processor that is capable of handling Dolby Atmos. So far as I have heard existing processors cannot be upgraded with a simple firmware updated, so new equipment will likely be required. You can hear an interesting take on Dolby Atmoson this week's edition of the Home Theater Geeks podcast: http://twit.tv/show/home-theater-geeks/214. On it speaker designer Andrew Jones discusses his foray into his first "budget" speaker build for Pioneer. Should be interesting to watch how it all pans out.
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post #80 of 101 Old 07-19-2014, 04:39 PM - Thread Starter
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I am consdiering Lutron Radio RA2 and Leviton Vizia RF+ (z-wave) lighting control. So far, it looks like the Leviton may save me some money, and also it is easy to get the control software for it. Does anyone have any advice regarding the Leviton Vizia RF+?


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post #81 of 101 Old 08-13-2014, 06:30 PM - Thread Starter
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Atmos plan

Pretty much decided to pre-wire for Atmos with 4 speaker cables to the corners of the ceiling cloud/bass trap above the center of the room. It's just too early to know what else to do.
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post #82 of 101 Old 08-13-2014, 06:53 PM
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Pretty much decided to pre-wire for Atmos with 4 speaker cables to the corners of the ceiling cloud/bass trap above the center of the room. It's just too early to know what else to do.
,

Pretty much what I'm going to do until second generation is available.

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post #83 of 101 Old 08-18-2014, 10:33 AM - Thread Starter
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Milestone!

Ordered the IB1 clips, Green Glue, some caulk, and Serenity Mat and glue for the floor on Friday from John Hile at Soundproofing Company. Got a competitive quote from a company in San Francisco, but Soundproofing Company was better, even with shipping from the Midwest.

Not sure when we'll get around to installing any of it. Right now, the contractor wants to use the Theater Room as a lockup for his equipment and materials, since we have had some theft at the jobsite.

But it's a big deal given how long it has taken to get to this point (over 4 years!).


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post #84 of 101 Old 08-20-2014, 08:52 AM
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LeBon:


In addition to the four additional speaker wire runs to the ceiling baffle, I'd like you to run two additional cables one each to the extreme left and right corners behind the screen wall. In addition, runs to the extreme left/right corners in the rear soffit.


Also, to avoid further project delays, you'll need to delete that photo with "Dartmouth". To neutralize the bad juju, insert a "Middlebury" photo.

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post #85 of 101 Old 08-20-2014, 09:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis Erskine View Post


Also, to avoid further project delays, you'll need to delete that photo with "Dartmouth". To neutralize the bad juju, insert a "Middlebury" photo.
Hey.....

Have something against good ole' keggy?








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post #86 of 101 Old 08-20-2014, 10:47 PM - Thread Starter
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Hey.....

Have something against good ole' keggy
Apparently, like Stanford, Dartmouth was formerly known as the Indians, too, but was overcome by political correctness -- so I feel a certain connection there. But I have no idea what a "Dartmoose" is or where that came from!
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post #87 of 101 Old 08-21-2014, 07:02 AM
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Apparently, like Stanford, Dartmouth was formerly known as the Indians, too, but was overcome by political correctness -- so I feel a certain connection there. But I have no idea what a "Dartmoose" is or where that came from!
Too funny......"Dartmoose" and rabid squirrels are two most perilous elements on campus..........both are infected with loathsome hatred for human element !

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post #88 of 101 Old 08-21-2014, 09:37 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis Erskine View Post
LeBon:
In addition to the four additional speaker wire runs to the ceiling baffle, I'd like you to run two additional cables one each to the extreme left and right corners behind the screen wall. In addition, runs to the extreme left/right corners in the rear soffit.
OK, I'll add these cables to the list.

So Dartmouth has "Dartmeese", and Stanford has "Trees". "Fear the Tree!"


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post #89 of 101 Old 08-21-2014, 10:55 AM
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OK, I'll add these cables to the list.

So Dartmouth has "Dartmeese", and Stanford has "Trees". "Fear the Tree!"
I will admit........"wit" is not a cerebral quality you're lacking!

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post #90 of 101 Old 08-26-2014, 11:24 AM - Thread Starter
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Received a pallet of soundproofing specialties from Soundproofing Company -- Serenity Mat, Glue, Clips, Green Glue and SilentSeal Caulk.
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