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post #1 of 4 Old 09-20-2013, 02:37 PM - Thread Starter
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I got three Berkline 12003 Reno chairs for $200 a piece from a furniture store who got an insurance claim from a truck accident...(so he says:eek:). I have the curved |0V0V0| configuration. They haven't been delivered yet, but I am trying to figure out some details on the riser I am going to build for the chairs. I used the Riser Calculator and it said 6", but I'm going with 8" just to be safe.

Here are my questions.

* How much depth do I need for my riser with a curved Berkline Reno configuration? I have a sectional in front and the backs do not move or recline. I have seen depth on risers as little as 6', but I think that is for straight armed and not curved Berklines. Right now I'm leaning towards 6'8". (fyi, I'm 6'5" and my feet hang off the end of the Reno's about 6")

* My plan is to use 2 x 8 studs and use two layers of plywood on top. I plan on putting attic R30 insulation between the studs. Is attic insulation OK for filling up the riser or is there another kind of insulation I should be looking for?

* Do I need to use plywood on the bottom of the riser? It will be over the top of the carpet and I don't plan on moving it.

* For those who have built risers, is it easier putting the step outside of the riser or inside the riser?
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post #2 of 4 Old 09-20-2013, 03:43 PM
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From the specs I found for the Reno, the curved row of 3 is only 4" deeper than a straight row of 3.

I have a different Berkline model, so these numbers might not match the Reno exactly. In a fully reclined position, my seat (Berkline 13175) measures 5'-10" long from top of headrest to bottom edge of footrest. Like you, I'm 6'-5" and my feet hang off approx. 6", so I need 6'-4" min. between the back wall and the seats in front of me. Add to that the extra 4" for a curved row and I would be right around 6'-8". This would be the absolute minimum, with the headrests brushing up against the back wall and the soles of my feet brushing up against the heads of people in the front row. You'll want a little more than that in front and behind just for a little buffer. If you have rear surrounds and want the guests in your back row to enjoy them, you'll need even more. My riser started out at a full 8', but after putting 5" of acoustic treatments and fabric panels on the back wall, I was left with 7'-7" of usable space.

Your screen must be really high if the riser calculator only recommended a 6" riser? Are you sure 8" will be sufficient? 8" is a funny height because I think it just puts you into the category of needing a step, but what you are left with are two very short steps. If you have the headroom, you might want to bump it up to 2x12s, at least around the perimeter. You can always use 2x8 joists to keep the cost down. Double check your sightlines to make sure you have sufficient height.

Regular pink fluffy insulation is fine inside the riser.

No plywood required on the bottom of the riser.

I prefer the step on the outside of the riser. Seems like less of a tripping hazard.
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post #3 of 4 Old 09-30-2013, 12:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Does anyone have good suggestions on how to build a step and cover it with carpet that leads up to your riser. I ended up using 2 x 10 studs and my riser is 83" x 123". I am debating about whether to use step with studs underneath and plywood on top with a lip to tuck the carpet under or just build a step that looks like a box and connect it to the side. Any suggestions on the size of the step?
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post #4 of 4 Old 09-30-2013, 01:31 PM
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once you pick out your chairs and know the exact width, build your steps about 1 1/2 to 2 inches smaller on each side of the room to allow for carpet with a little left over. Anything leaving a bigger gap is a leg injury waiting to happen. It should have a lip and it should be 1/2 the final height of the riser. It doesn't have to be a small step either as I prefer something a little more grand. Add step lights if you have plans for a lot of company.



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