Soundproofing and location of media rack - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 10 Old 09-22-2013, 12:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Complete newbie here. We are finishing our basement in a 2 year old house. Attached is the floor plan. The home theater is tucked in the back corner and adjacent to an unfinished utility room and an exercise room. It will have a tray ceiling with rope light and glass french door opening into the hallway. We have 8" solid concrete foundation walls and the builder put in R11 foil-faced insulation around. The utility room contains a very noisy AC/furnace so we'd also like to cut down that noise. We will have small bedroom in a bump-out area with only one interior wall. Since I may occasionally use the bedroom as my home recording studio (vocal only and I normally use a headset and no loud speakers). It's probably a good idea to also soundproof that.

I have read several Soundproofing 101 pieces and many posts on the AVS forum. I would like a lower cost and reasonable performance solution for soundproofing. Right now I'm thinking double layer 5/8 drywall with Green Glue on the inside of the home theater, single layer on the exercise room side, and R13 Insulation, since I may not have enough space for staggering framing or double layer drywall on both sides. For the ceiling I'll do double layer 5/8 with GG and R19 insulation. Channeling and clips sound quite complicated so I'm trying to stay away if I can. Double layer with Green Glue on the outside of the utility room only since the inside with be unfinished. Hopefully any noise coming from the home theater into the utility room can be contained somewhat by the double drywall outside the utility room. Bedroom can probably be treated similarly to the theater. I will get the Green Glue Sealant to seal any seams or outlets. Does the exterior wall side of the home theater need double drywall with green glue as well? What's the easiest to treat the french door opening?

We plan to build in a media rack in the bottom right corner of the home theater, so it'll be easier to access all the wiring in the utility room. We'll use the room also for karaoke so accessing the equipment from the back may have some advantage. I'm not sure if other people have done this. Are there things we should watch out for?

We'll skip buying a projector screen and paint our wall using 3 layers of Sherwin-Williams ProClassic Smooth Enamel Satin Extra White, # B20 W 51, as Projector Central has recommended. One thing I can't figure out is whether we should simply paint the entire wall, or only the size that'll be projected, maybe frame it and then paint the rest of that wall a dark color?

Many, many thanks!

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post #2 of 10 Old 09-22-2013, 01:10 PM
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Channeling and clips sound quite complicated so I'm trying to stay away if I can.

You know there are actually YouTube videos showing how to install clips and channel. Ted White soundproofingcompany,com will send you instructions and walk you through it. Securing a double layer of DW directly to the studs Is a formula for disappointing results. Particularly if you spend the money for Green Glue.


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post #3 of 10 Old 09-22-2013, 01:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

You know there are actually YouTube videos showing how to install clips and channel. Ted White soundproofingcompany,com will send you instructions and walk you through it. Securing a double layer of DW directly to the studs Is a formula for disappointing results. Particularly if you spend the money for Green Glue.

thanks! I am waiting for a reply from Ted's company. One concern is that I don't have much space for the wall between the theater and exercise room, because of the overhead steel beam and vents. I imagine clips and channel add a few inches to the the thickness.
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post #4 of 10 Old 09-22-2013, 01:56 PM
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What's the easiest to treat the french door opening?
Easiest way to treat the french door is not to do it, and use a single door, instead. It is very difficult to soundproof the astragal between the 2 doors.


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post #5 of 10 Old 09-22-2013, 03:54 PM
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One concern is that I don't have much space for the wall between the theater and exercise room, because of the overhead steel beam and vents. I imagine clips and channel add a few inches to the the thickness.

Yes the clips and channel add about 1 1/2 inches but there are ways of reducing with recessed mounting if you absolutely need the extra room.

You know when you build a wall you don't need to drywall all the way to where the framing fits between a duct and a beam, you only need to go up as high as a soffit hiding those objects. You can also frame directly under a steel beam if that makes things better.


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post #6 of 10 Old 09-22-2013, 04:01 PM
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One 36 inch door will work nicely.............

If GG is on your agenda.................might as well invest another $2500-$3000 for the hole nine yards! Just saying.................

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post #7 of 10 Old 09-22-2013, 05:47 PM
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looking at the diagram, if you are only planning a single row of seating using a sectional, don't put it 19 ft from the screen. Given the position of the door to the room if you are thinking of incorporating a riser for the rear row it would make sense to flip the screen wall to the other end. I would simplify your soundproofing needs and build a garage with a roll in rack in the hall. put it in the space freed up by going to a single door.


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post #8 of 10 Old 09-22-2013, 07:10 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Yes the clips and channel add about 1 1/2 inches but there are ways of reducing with recessed mounting if you absolutely need the extra room.

You know when you build a wall you don't need to drywall all the way to where the framing fits between a duct and a beam, you only need to go up as high as a soffit hiding those objects. You can also frame directly under a steel beam if that makes things better.

You are right. The beam and duct will actually both be in soffits on either side of the wall. I will have 14' width without drywall and framing. With all that I'll be left with 13' which to me is quite narrow for a theater. That's why I was trying to save a few inches. But I will definitely think about incorporating staggered framing and/or clips/channels. If I can only do one of them, which is somewhat more effective? I have 9' ceiling so adding ceiling clips wouldn't be a problem in terms of room. Should the drywall against the exterior foundation wall also be treated the same way?
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post #9 of 10 Old 09-22-2013, 07:16 PM - Thread Starter
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looking at the diagram, if you are only planning a single row of seating using a sectional, don't put it 19 ft from the screen. Given the position of the door to the room if you are thinking of incorporating a riser for the rear row it would make sense to flip the screen wall to the other end. I would simplify your soundproofing needs and build a garage with a roll in rack in the hall. put it in the space freed up by going to a single door.

I'm using this room for movies, karaoke, sports and video games for kids. Really an all purpose media room. So I'd like to keep an open plan so it might accommodate a larger party than two rows of movie seats can allow. It'll have a sectional with a few easy chairs that can be moved around. From my experience quite a few people prefer to stand when singing karaoke. A riser would probably make traffic a little harder, esp. with younger kids.
What do you mean by "build a garage with a roll in rack in the hall"?
Thanks!
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post #10 of 10 Old 09-22-2013, 08:26 PM
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Think of a closet with no door, just an opening an inch or so bigger than the rack, they make racks on wheels so that you can pull out to do your wiring.


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