Lukeamdman's Dedicated Theater Construction - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 151 Old 10-11-2013, 12:12 PM - Thread Starter
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This area, roughly 13x26 is going to be my dedicated theater space. I had a dumpster delivered today so the remodel just began for the entire basement.

20130823_083155_zps378c4556.jpg

20130823_083213_zps69fb5082.jpg

Here's what's going to be in there for subs:

20130826_172928_zps7a75d8b9.jpg

My question is about that main wall and the rear wall I'll be putting in. I need to beef these things up...big time.

On my old system, quad LMS 5400s, here's what the wall would do:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KO_wJIst0xI

Well, I've over doubled the 15-30hz output since then, and that wall, which is a supporting wall and very solid already, moves WAY more during some spirited demos...

The other two walls are obviously concrete, but what can I do to make the other two wall as sturdy as possible?

Double up on 5/8" drywall? Anything I can fill the wall with?

I'm looking for ideas, I don't care how crazy!
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post #2 of 151 Old 10-11-2013, 01:40 PM
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Man you gotta be excited for the dedicated room! If it were me I would think extra drywall, not sure how much. I've also heard of green glue and whisper clips to decouple and further isolate from vibration.
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post #3 of 151 Old 10-11-2013, 02:11 PM
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Three layers of 5/8 drywall with Green Glue dampening between layers. mount the walls, ceiling and soffits hiding those ducts using a clip and channel isolation method. Address HVAC isolation and all holes in the drywall bunker for electrical etc with appropriate strategies. click the curve frenzy theater in my signature for a similarly insane audio adventure.
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post #4 of 151 Old 10-11-2013, 03:14 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Three layers of 5/8 drywall with Green Glue dampening between layers. mount the walls, ceiling and soffits hiding those ducts using a clip and channel isolation method. Address HVAC isolation and all holes in the drywall bunker for electrical etc with appropriate strategies. click the curve frenzy theater in my signature for a similarly insane audio adventure.

Wow, 3 layers?

How much could the OS LFU vibrate those walls?
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post #5 of 151 Old 10-11-2013, 03:17 PM
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I'll keep an eye on this one, good luck moving forward.

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post #6 of 151 Old 10-12-2013, 07:43 AM
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^ Me too.

Luke, I'm not surprised at the recommendation for 3 layers. My room doesn't have anywhere close to the fire power you have, and I already fear for the drywall on the back wall. As you know it's crazy how much it can flex and move with the bass - I'm somewhat surprised that I don't have any cracking issues yet.

Good luck, I'll be following this thread.
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post #7 of 151 Old 10-12-2013, 07:47 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by carp View Post

^ Me too.

Luke, I'm not surprised at the recommendation for 3 layers. My room doesn't have anywhere close to the fire power you have, and I already fear for the drywall on the back wall. As you know it's crazy how much it can flex and move with the bass - I'm somewhat surprised that I don't have any cracking issues yet.

Good luck, I'll be following this thread.

Right now, the room is completely open in the back, so it's basically a 13x48 space. I'm wondering what the heck will happen to the walls when this room has a back wall and is more "sealed"...3 layers seems more reasonable the more I think about it!
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post #8 of 151 Old 10-12-2013, 08:01 AM
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I did luck out in the fact that my front screen wall used to be wood paneling (with studs and concrete wall behind) and when I had my basement re-finished a few years ago they told me I could save a bit if I just had them put the drywall right on top of the wood paneling instead of tearing the paneling down. The wood paneling is very sturdy/rigid stuff so my front wall does soooo much better than my other 3 walls which is nice since my screen is a painted wall. The image vibrates like crazy on some scenes like Flight of the Phoenix but it's not the wall, it's the projector - that's a whole other issue that needs to be addressed eventually.

I'm jealous of you man, you get to start from scratch and make sure it's all done right! smile.gif
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post #9 of 151 Old 10-13-2013, 10:19 AM
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Subscribed. Should be fun trying to contain that madness!
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post #10 of 151 Old 10-14-2013, 09:27 AM
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4 of Ricci's horn subs must put out insane bass! Cant wait to see your containment strategy.

Varibus Mari Victoria
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post #11 of 151 Old 10-14-2013, 11:36 AM - Thread Starter
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Instead of doing three 5/8" layers of drywall on the inside of the theater room, I think I'll do two 5/8" layers on each side of the wall. That should be pretty sturdy. I may double up the 2x4's in that wall as well.
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post #12 of 151 Old 10-14-2013, 11:45 AM
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Looks like your ceiling height is a little over 7ft... correct?... Instead of 9ft or so... 3 5/8 layers on the ceiling may be a little low if your build a riser...
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post #13 of 151 Old 10-14-2013, 11:48 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HT_SoulMan View Post

Looks like your ceiling height is a little over 7ft... correct?... Instead of 9ft or so... 3 5/8 layers on the ceiling may be a little low if your build a riser...

The ceilings are just under 8ft...and then there's the duct work on the right side. I'm not sure what i'm going to do with the ceiling since I don't want to lose even more height.
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post #14 of 151 Old 10-14-2013, 12:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lukeamdman View Post

The ceilings are just under 8ft...and then there's the duct work on the right side. I'm not sure what i'm going to do with the ceiling since I don't want to lose even more height.

If you are wanting to contain sound...there is no getting around losing a bit more height... What would be the point of beefing up your basement walls, but not the ceiling...

My theater is directly below my den. Family hates life when I have sessions without them while they are hanging out in the den.
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post #15 of 151 Old 10-14-2013, 01:29 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by popalock View Post

If you are wanting to contain sound...there is no getting around loosing a bit more height... What would be the point of beefing up your basement walls, but not the ceiling...

My theater is directly below my den. Family hates life when I have sessions without them while they are hanging out in the den.

Containing the sound is only going to happen so much.

The chief offender for vibration is that supporting wall, and it just goes crazy from 25hz and below.

The ceiling isn't so bad in the ultra low stuff, but rather the 30-60hz stuff.

I'm also thinking about covering the duct work with dynamat. The sound just echoes through the whole thing.
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post #16 of 151 Old 10-15-2013, 06:15 AM
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Have you considered staggered studs? May help if you have the room.
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post #17 of 151 Old 10-15-2013, 10:09 AM - Thread Starter
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Have you considered staggered studs? May help if you have the room.

Staggered studs? Can you elaborate?
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post #18 of 151 Old 10-15-2013, 01:48 PM
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post #19 of 151 Old 10-17-2013, 07:12 AM - Thread Starter
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That would definitely keep the supporting wall from vibrating, but that extra wall on the staggered studs would still go crazy.

I think it might be easier to just add another wall on the theater room side and make that the 3-layer wall. Keep about an inch of space between that wall and the supporting wall.

The ceiling is the tricky part since I don't wall to drywall it. All the water and gas lines are there, with a kitchen and laundry room directly above. The odds of water spills leaking down is high, so I want some sort of accessibility to that area.
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post #20 of 151 Old 10-28-2013, 09:07 AM
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Luke, can you post up your current and/or contemplated basement floor plan?

Are you planning on leaving the room access door in the same location?
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post #21 of 151 Old 10-28-2013, 11:07 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by popalock View Post

Luke, can you post up your current and/or contemplated basement floor plan?

Are you planning on leaving the room access door in the same location?

Here are some plans I drew up a while back of the current layout:





I'll upload a new one that will show the new layout.

That one door that connects the two living rooms won't be there in the future.
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post #22 of 151 Old 10-28-2013, 12:59 PM
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Ever consider reworking some of the HVAC? You could swing the one run of ductwork over to the other wall.
And then use top take offs to run over in the joist cavity, to tie into where the existing ducts run to the next floor.
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post #23 of 151 Old 10-28-2013, 03:47 PM - Thread Starter
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Ever consider reworking some of the HVAC? You could swing the one run of ductwork over to the other wall.
And then use top take offs to run over in the joist cavity, to tie into where the existing ducts run to the next floor.

The old HT room that's 11x29 is where I'll have my ping pong table, so I'd rather have the lower ceilings in the new HT room.
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post #24 of 151 Old 10-28-2013, 04:03 PM - Thread Starter
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Can anyone recommend a good free software for drawing a simple floor plan? The one i'm using royally stinks.
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post #25 of 151 Old 10-28-2013, 04:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lukeamdman View Post

Can anyone recommend a good free software for drawing a simple floor plan? The one i'm using royally stinks.

+1

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post #26 of 151 Old 10-28-2013, 08:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Here's how the subs will be positioned in the room:





After moving them around a ton, firing them sideways towards the outside walls yielded the best gains by far. I'm also putting them on that end of the room so there's a concrete wall behind them.

With them positioned that way, they're only out from the back wall about 5ft, leaving about 15ft between and the seats. Plenty of space.
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post #27 of 151 Old 10-29-2013, 12:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lukeamdman View Post

The old HT room that's 11x29 is where I'll have my ping pong table, so I'd rather have the lower ceilings in the new HT room.

You worried about the kids hitting the ceiling? My table is literally right under the lowest point in my basement with no problems.

IMG_20131029_033122_zps65653135.jpg

IMG_20131029_033139_zps9efd2d70.jpg

Quote:
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Can anyone recommend a good free software for drawing a simple floor plan? The one i'm using royally stinks.

Google Sketchup.
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post #28 of 151 Old 10-29-2013, 10:04 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by popalock View Post

You worried about the kids hitting the ceiling? My table is literally right under the lowest point in my basement with no problems.

IMG_20131029_033122_zps65653135.jpg

IMG_20131029_033139_zps9efd2d70.jpg
Google Sketchup.

The ping pong table used to be in the current HT room where the duct work is, and it was already a problem there. The ceiling without the duct work is only like 7'10", so with the duct work and the drywall it'll be at about 7' and maybe a little less.

Really, moving the duct work to the other side would be really difficult of not impossible, since the stairs completely block that path. I'll upload a picture so you can see for yourself.
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post #29 of 151 Old 11-01-2013, 08:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tedd View Post

Ever consider reworking some of the HVAC? You could swing the one run of ductwork over to the other wall.
And then use top take offs to run over in the joist cavity, to tie into where the existing ducts run to the next floor.

Yeah, it would look a lot better of there was soffit on each side of the room instead of it all on one side. I'm looking into moving the return air over to the other side of the room.

I'm also thinking about the entrance to the theater being hidden. Maybe a sliding bookcase or something.
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post #30 of 151 Old 11-02-2013, 09:06 AM
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I tore down a tongue and groove basement drop ceiling and replaced with drywall. In an effort to spare ceiling height, I doubled up the 12"x12" panels and screwed between the studs to the underside of the floor above(seemed a waste to trash). Helps with HF leaking out and noise entering. Does little/nothing to mitigate LF. Soundproofing was not a major goal in my instance. Cutting strips of 5/8" drywall, green goo'ing and attaching in a similar fashion should be more effective.
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