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post #1 of 18 Old 10-14-2013, 07:27 AM - Thread Starter
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As part of my v2.0 rebuild, I'm moving my screen wall back 16 " (to allow for more room between the entrance and the speakers, and to give some more room overall in the HT)
However the wall consists of 5 layers of 5/8" drywall (11' feet long, 6.5' tall) screwed into the frame and a couple of layers of green glue between them. I'd simply unscrew the DW, however being that the layers of DW were added over time, there are multiple layers of screws (e.g. first couple of layers are screwed into the frame, then another sheet of DW is Green Glued to that and screwed in, and similarly for the next couple of layers). I tried brute force - but limited success. So even if I wanted to unscrew layer by layer, the green glue is holding the layers together.
I'd prefer to remove the drywall - as then in addition to moving it - I'd be able to decouple the drywall from the frame (currently the frame itself is supported by the joists and decoupled from the joists- however the DW is directly attached to the wood frame)

any ideas?
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post #2 of 18 Old 10-14-2013, 07:38 AM
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I shrank my theater, and had to deal with double 5/8" and Green Glue. Not a fun job!

It basically came down to finding the outer layer screws and removing them and then using a flat pry bar and a 5 pound sledge hammer, I basically chiselled/pried
the first layer off. It was quite the full body work out. And one messy/dusty job. The second layer was much easier.

Five layers, I feel for you...... maybe a sawzall???
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post #3 of 18 Old 10-14-2013, 09:28 AM
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Cut narrow sections with a sawsall. Make the first cut 6 inches wide in the middle of the room between studs. Then you can cut a little wider as you will be able to get a good grip on each section.


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post #4 of 18 Old 10-14-2013, 09:33 AM - Thread Starter
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BigM - Sorry, not following.
Once I cut out a 6" hole in the middle of the wall (between the joists) what should I do then?
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post #5 of 18 Old 10-14-2013, 10:08 AM
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not a hole. a floor to ceiling strip 6 inches wide between two studs. That piece should just fall out. Then move over 12 inches and cut that strip then grab it and pull really hard you should be able to pull thre screws through the back. If you can't pry it out, cut it in half or thirds and try again.


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post #6 of 18 Old 10-14-2013, 10:14 AM - Thread Starter
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gotcha - though any way to remove it and still salvage the wall (DW+DW+GG +DW + DW+ GG + DW) so I can still use it as a wall (perhaps w/ just 1 layer DW added if necessary)
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post #7 of 18 Old 10-14-2013, 11:10 AM - Thread Starter
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I was just thinking - I have access to the back of the wall, and already took off the 2 layers of DW.
As the wall in question is an artificial wall I put on the inside of the concrete wall foundation (about 2 feet removed from the concrete)
Being that the current 5 layer + 2x GG wall cost about $350, and the wood frame cost about $20.
Perhaps I'm better off - cutting up the wooden frame - and then reframing

If I remove the 5xDW from the frame - do you think it'll hold together in one piece due to the size of it and that I'd have a better chance moving this?

Lastly (since I mentioned the concrete walls) - I have 2 walls of the HT which are still just concrete (in regards to sound containment, and in particular LFE) - do I need to build a wall inside of it?
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post #8 of 18 Old 10-14-2013, 11:22 AM
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My vote would be sledge hammer, then rebuild. For only a single wall, the cost won't be too much. My vision of someone trying to dismantle this type of wall leads to hours and hours of painstaking frustration, followed by a wall that is full of holes and unintended damage, which gets replaced in the end anyways.

-Steve


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post #9 of 18 Old 10-14-2013, 02:23 PM
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while somebody may be thinking about moving this in one piece, don't over look the fact that 5 layers of drywall alone is 787 lbs (11 lbs a sq ft.) Add the green glue, screws and frame and you approach a 1/2 ton. I wouldn't want to be standing on either side once you cut it loose and attempt to move it over 2 ft.


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post #10 of 18 Old 10-14-2013, 03:03 PM - Thread Starter
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Strange (and promising) thing is that I was able to move 1 side of the wall the 16" needed and then screwed it into the 2x4 hanging on the hat channel in the new location.
Thing is that now that that is in place, the other side - and the rest of it - won't budge

Also it's quite easy to shake -i.e. if I push it with my arms - it moves . However the bottom stays put
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post #11 of 18 Old 10-15-2013, 06:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgott42 View Post

Strange (and promising) thing is that I was able to move 1 side of the wall the 16" needed and then screwed it into the 2x4 hanging on the hat channel in the new location.
Thing is that now that that is in place, the other side - and the rest of it - won't budge

Also it's quite easy to shake -i.e. if I push it with my arms - it moves . However the bottom stays put

bolted into the concrete somewhere along the way? if so, you'd have to do some serious wiggling to get that thing loose.

-Steve


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post #12 of 18 Old 10-15-2013, 08:28 AM - Thread Starter
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Did it! I kinda stumbled onto a solution.
I bought a pry bar
http://www.walmart.com/ip/23024624?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=3&adid=22222222227016878161&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=25347215676&wl4=&wl5=pla&wl6=50576447316&veh=sem
and 1,000 lb rated furniture sliders. I was thinking I could pry up the base of the wall enough to slip the sliders underneath and then push.
What happened was I put the pry bar underneath and it didn’t pick up at all, I even stood all of my 225lb weight on the pry bar and nada. Then I tried to kick the pry bar underneath the wall further to help pick it up, and noticed as I kicked the pry bar the each time I kicked the wall moved about ½ inch. Viola! I kicked it a bunch of times and was able to move it into place!

My next Q - I have a 3 inch gap between the wall and the side concrete wall. What do you suggest putting there to sound proof.
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post #13 of 18 Old 10-15-2013, 09:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgott42 View Post

Did it! I kinda stumbled onto a solution.
I bought a pry bar
http://www.walmart.com/ip/23024624?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=3&adid=22222222227016878161&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=25347215676&wl4=&wl5=pla&wl6=50576447316&veh=sem
and 1,000 lb rated furniture sliders. I was thinking I could pry up the base of the wall enough to slip the sliders underneath and then push.
What happened was I put the pry bar underneath and it didn’t pick up at all, I even stood all of my 225lb weight on the pry bar and nada. Then I tried to kick the pry bar underneath the wall further to help pick it up, and noticed as I kicked the pry bar the each time I kicked the wall moved about ½ inch. Viola! I kicked it a bunch of times and was able to move it into place!

My next Q - I have a 3 inch gap between the wall and the side concrete wall. What do you suggest putting there to sound proof.

Nothing. Or pink insulation. Air gap is actually a good thing when it comes to soundproofing, as it created isolation. you have enough mass already to stop the mid and high frequencies.
Anyone have any thoughts on whether 3" gap is too big or would cause other issues?

-Steve


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post #14 of 18 Old 10-15-2013, 01:43 PM
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I believe building code in NY requires insulation for exterior foundation walls.


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post #15 of 18 Old 10-15-2013, 03:11 PM
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theme song for this thread:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vWZ-pLUb9L8


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post #16 of 18 Old 10-15-2013, 06:38 PM
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theme song for this thread:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vWZ-pLUb9L8


LOL. Perfect match biggrin.gif


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post #17 of 18 Old 10-15-2013, 07:45 PM
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theme song for this thread:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vWZ-pLUb9L8

Perfect! My thoughts are this (which is silent, so your soundtrack works, too!):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zsyRhRR5Iu4

(it kinda looks 5 layers thick, too!) biggrin.gif


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post #18 of 18 Old 10-21-2013, 07:58 AM - Thread Starter
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:-)
(I'm a Frank fan too - love it)
Now I've been singing that to myself
:-)
Also liked the Laverne and Shirley version
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