Design ideas/suggestions/recommendations - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
 
Thread Tools
post #1 of 27 Old 10-16-2013, 07:44 AM - Thread Starter
Newbie
 
goodguy19's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 14
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I wanted to get some opinions from those far more knowledgeable than I, for designing my future home theater. I am including a quick rough sketch and providing some details about the space and my thoughts. Please take a look and let me know what you think. Thank you in advance for your help.

The 3 walls are already framed, insulated and foil covered. I can easily get in to run electrical, coaxial, cat6, etc. The ceiling is wide open and we have 9' basement walls, so we would have a finished height of 8' or very close to it.

On the far left end, on the wall with the water line framed in, is the location where I would think i would put the screen. I would like to do a projector, probably about 100", if that would work with my size room. I think It should be close?

I have a small basement window on the wall where the 18' 6" marker is, which I can easily add window treatment to that so there is NO light coming in. The opening where there would be a door added, we are trying to figure out what type of door to put in, we are considering the folding type so the whole back wall opens.

So what recommendations would you make?

Type of ceiling, type of flooring, anything special for walls, seating layout, etc? I would like to try to get like 4 movie theater style seats and a small couch or something like that in there. I am sure I would have to build a platform for the back seats, which would be no problem, given that I will have a finished ceiling height of like 8'.

Thanks for all your help,

Jon


AppleMark
goodguy19 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 27 Old 10-17-2013, 10:32 AM - Thread Starter
Newbie
 
goodguy19's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 14
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Anyone?
goodguy19 is offline  
post #3 of 27 Old 10-17-2013, 02:40 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Tedd's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Ontario
Posts: 3,849
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 15 Post(s)
Liked: 58
Any chance the room could be lengthened? A diagram of the whole basement would
be helpful and narrow down suggestions... Any obstructions should be noted (like any HAVC
running down the middle of the theater???).

First thing I'd do is close off the room. And then get the popcorn machine and av rack out of
the theater area. No heat, noise, light, and popcorn smell in the theater itself. The closed off
space would allow for a much lower noise floor that would preserve dynamic range too.

Why does the ceiling have to be finished at 8'? Why not side wall soffits and try to keep the
central portion at 9' of height?

Could the 2.5 x2.5" boxed area be reduced in size?

With what's shown, I'd be thinking a DIY AT screen up front, with the speakers behind
the screen. Much of that box could be hidden with a 2.5' deep AT space, and access
could be via a swing fabric panel.
Tedd is offline  
post #4 of 27 Old 10-17-2013, 07:02 PM - Thread Starter
Newbie
 
goodguy19's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 14
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Any chance the room could be lengthened? No

A diagram of the whole basement would be helpful and narrow down suggestions... Any obstructions should be noted (like any HAVC
running down the middle of the theater???).
The basement is all unfinished right now and the space where I will add a wall/door on the theater is wide open and will eventually be a game room. I have attached a new sketch which shows all a/c ducts that would interfere in the ceiling. They come down 9 inches at most.

First thing I'd do is close off the room. - I will add a wall and door, or a large folding wall so we can open it up for parties.
And then get the popcorn machine and av rack out ofthe theater area. No heat, noise, light, and popcorn smell in the theater itself. The closed off
space would allow for a much lower noise floor that would preserve dynamic range too.
- Excellent point, thank you. I have moved them to the outside of the theater room.

Why does the ceiling have to be finished at 8'? Why not side wall soffits and try to keep the central portion at 9' of height? On the sketch I placed red boxes around the hvac runs that drop below the floor joists. They only come down 9", so I could certainly keep a majority of the ceiling height at about 9'.

Could the 2.5 x2.5" boxed area be reduced in size? - I remeasured and I was able to make some adjustments, but didn't factor in for a nozzle that extends out. So I could box in it and it would be 18"x36". The good thing is that the 36" length would follow the long wall.

With what's shown, I'd be thinking a DIY AT screen up front, with the speakers behind the screen. Much of that box could be hidden with a 2.5' deep AT space, and access could be via a swing fabric panel. Can you fill me in a bit more on this? Any articles you know of to build this type of screen? I really think I would like this look.

Thank you for the response! I appreciate all the suggestions.

AppleMark
goodguy19 is offline  
post #5 of 27 Old 10-18-2013, 03:19 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Tedd's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Ontario
Posts: 3,849
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 15 Post(s)
Liked: 58
Seymour XD screens are pretty commonplace these days around the AVS Forum, both commercial and DIY.

http://www.seymourav.com/screensDIY.asp would be a good primer.

The HVAC could be put in a soffit. (The diagram is too small to read beyond the "these two lines"...)

Looks like you could build symmetrical soffits down both sides.
Tedd is offline  
post #6 of 27 Old 10-18-2013, 03:38 PM - Thread Starter
Newbie
 
goodguy19's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 14
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tedd View Post

Seymour XD screens are pretty commonplace these days around the AVS Forum, both commercial and DIY.

http://www.seymourav.com/screensDIY.asp would be a good primer.

The HVAC could be put in a soffit. (The diagram is too small to read beyond the "these two lines"...)

Looks like you could build symmetrical soffits down both sides.


Thanks for the info. I will certainly take a look at their products.

The small letter said that the two hvac runs that start out in the red box that run to the far wall, are up in the floor joists and don't stick down at all. So the only area of the room that has anything extending below the floor joists is the hvac lines that are outlined by the red boxes I placed on the sketch.

I was thinking of running symmetrical soffits down both sides as you mentioned, and trying to add some recessed lighting or other appropriate lighting for the room. Thoughts on that?

Thanks again,
goodguy19 is offline  
post #7 of 27 Old 10-18-2013, 04:57 PM
AVS Special Member
 
doublewing11's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Timber Country!
Posts: 3,309
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 31 Post(s)
Liked: 189
You may want to consider Triad in-walls to save some room space. Going to a facade screen wall will eat up space real quick. The good thing about Triad in-walls they have inert, quality backer-boxes built into speaker. Going to in-walls would allow you to have screen less than one foot from wall..................would provide greater output..............and give you plenty of room for two rows of seating.
doublewing11 is offline  
post #8 of 27 Old 10-18-2013, 05:36 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Tedd's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Ontario
Posts: 3,849
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 15 Post(s)
Liked: 58
You could plant the screen six inches off the face of the speaker. Anything less can change the timbre of the speaker.
Anything more, could be considered wasted depth. I was aiming for using the AT space to hide the water closet. That's
why I asked if the room could be extended.

You could mirror the water closet and make cover both in black velvet, to absorb light scatter off the screen.

A baffle wall would be another shallow depth solution. Not really a DIY design solution though...

Any chance that water closet could be shrunk?
Tedd is offline  
post #9 of 27 Old 10-18-2013, 06:55 PM - Thread Starter
Newbie
 
goodguy19's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 14
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by doublewing11 View Post

You may want to consider Triad in-walls to save some room space. Going to a facade screen wall will eat up space real quick. The good thing about Triad in-walls they have inert, quality backer-boxes built into speaker. Going to in-walls would allow you to have screen less than one foot from wall..................would provide greater output..............and give you plenty of room for two rows of seating.

They look like a great product and would help keep that front screen with a much lower profile. I will take a look at them.

Thanks,
goodguy19 is offline  
post #10 of 27 Old 10-18-2013, 07:06 PM - Thread Starter
Newbie
 
goodguy19's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 14
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tedd View Post

You could plant the screen six inches off the face of the speaker. Anything less can change the timbre of the speaker.
Anything more, could be considered wasted depth. I was aiming for using the AT space to hide the water closet. That's
why I asked if the room could be extended.

You could mirror the water closet and make cover both in black velvet, to absorb light scatter off the screen.

A baffle wall would be another shallow depth solution. Not really a DIY design solution though...

Any chance that water closet could be shrunk?

No such luck on extending the room. I do like the idea of doing a mirror of the water closet. I like that as it would balance out the room.

The best I can do to the water closet would be 18"x36".
goodguy19 is offline  
post #11 of 27 Old 10-19-2013, 02:44 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Tedd's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Ontario
Posts: 3,849
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 15 Post(s)
Liked: 58
I'd like to see that water closet, to see if there's a way to rebuild it to minimise it's impact on the room.

The Triads are an excellent suggestion for both output and preserving room length, but working on
preserving the width at the front would allow you a bigger screen without having boundaries close to the screen.
A woven AT screen scatters light coming off the screen in an uncontrolled fashion, and you'll want to treat nearby
boundaries to capture the light coming off the screen. This will preserve contrast ratio. Near boundary walls also
might impact on the audio.
Tedd is offline  
post #12 of 27 Old 10-20-2013, 05:42 PM - Thread Starter
Newbie
 
goodguy19's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 14
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tedd View Post

I'd like to see that water closet, to see if there's a way to rebuild it to minimise it's impact on the room.

The Triads are an excellent suggestion for both output and preserving room length, but working on
preserving the width at the front would allow you a bigger screen without having boundaries close to the screen.
A woven AT screen scatters light coming off the screen in an uncontrolled fashion, and you'll want to treat nearby
boundaries to capture the light coming off the screen. This will preserve contrast ratio. Near boundary walls also
might impact on the audio.

Ok, I am attaching a couple photos, one of the room overall and one of the water lines that I need to enclose. I measured after we moved some things out of the way and I can get it down to 16"x36". I will need to build this so I have access to this water line, as this is where I turn on and off my in ground sprinklers each year. But the foot print shouldn't be terrible.

I think I should be able to get a pretty good sized screen. I was figuring I could get about 100" screen. This should allow for enough space to add either a tower speaker, or a Triad type that I could put behind the screen.

Any suggestions on projectors? I was looking at the viewsonic pro8200. I want to try to keep under $1000 for a projector. Thoughts? I am guessing I would probably put my projector about 12 1/2 feet from the screen, which should get me right about a 100" screen.

Thoughts on drop ceilings for this project? What type of wall product would be best?

Suggestions on placement of theater seating? Type of seating?



goodguy19 is offline  
post #13 of 27 Old 10-21-2013, 08:19 AM
Member
 
Cmontesi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 16
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
A great way to start a project is to sketch it out as follows:
- whole basement layout
- program(what you want in ur basement)
- staircase location
- ducts/pipes/mechanical laid out
- sewage lines
- windows
- exiting electrical components

After thats done, a better idea of program layout can be given e.i access to egress, mechanical room, proper ventilation, sound proofing, flooring ideas, ceiling ideas, detailing, working around columns to make them as part of your design rather than just being there for the sake of structure, working around piping as to hide them but also be made accessible for maintenance, etc.
Cmontesi is offline  
post #14 of 27 Old 10-21-2013, 03:08 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Tedd's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Ontario
Posts: 3,849
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 15 Post(s)
Liked: 58
Could you frame around the plumbing to have the drywall just skim the water meter to save a few inches of width
up front? Then do an access door with a magnetic gasket. You could hide the whole works by having a hinged black
fabric panel, floor to ceiling.

The round HVAC duct could be rebuilt and moved over easily, and hidden in a soffit running down the side of the room,
then do a matching symmetrical soffit on the other side. That soffit might be useful for cold air returns and maybe a wiring
chase.

The usual rule of thumb is 80% (maximum) of the front wall as screen. You can push this, as many do, but it works best with
all nearby surfaces being dark and light absorptive. Light will come off a woven AT screen in a scattered fashion. The floor and
soffit will also need to light absorbing to preserve a projector's contrast ratio. A 100" wide screen should work, assuming the
projector can put up proper illumination with a 1.0 gain screen.

No experience with the Viewsonic. Don't assume a throw ratio as they vary from projector to projector.

Why drop ceiling? It will eat up 3" of room height, to insert tiles. Why not a drywalled ceiling?

What is the power vent for (the inner of the two round ducts)? Could this run be moved over, and be hidden in a right hand
soffit? And given an access panel? (And disguised.)
Tedd is offline  
post #15 of 27 Old 10-21-2013, 06:48 PM - Thread Starter
Newbie
 
goodguy19's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 14
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cmontesi View Post

A great way to start a project is to sketch it out as follows:
- whole basement layout
- program(what you want in ur basement)
- staircase location
- ducts/pipes/mechanical laid out
- sewage lines
- windows
- exiting electrical components

After thats done, a better idea of program layout can be given e.i access to egress, mechanical room, proper ventilation, sound proofing, flooring ideas, ceiling ideas, detailing, working around columns to make them as part of your design rather than just being there for the sake of structure, working around piping as to hide them but also be made accessible for maintenance, etc.

I will work on sketching out my layout better.

I have little in the way of structural things to work around below the ceiling, which is the water line in the far corner. I do like the idea of making it part of my design rather than just for sake of structure. i was originally thinking of more just slapping walls up to get my theater in place, but seeing some pictures of finished theaters, using columns to disguise things adds such a better look and will be well worth the added time/expense.

Thanks for the comments.
goodguy19 is offline  
post #16 of 27 Old 10-21-2013, 07:10 PM - Thread Starter
Newbie
 
goodguy19's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 14
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tedd View Post

Could you frame around the plumbing to have the drywall just skim the water meter to save a few inches of width
up front? Then do an access door with a magnetic gasket. You could hide the whole works by having a hinged black
fabric panel, floor to ceiling.

The tough part of the plumbing is that it extends off the wall so far. If you look at the photo I posted, the water comes in from the floor, but starting at that right wall and going all the way left to the very tip of outermost valve on the left, it's 35 1/2". So I am not sure what I can do with that. Any thoughts? The plumbing sticks off the wall 14 3/4". So I could get away with 15" there.

The round HVAC duct could be rebuilt and moved over easily, and hidden in a soffit running down the side of the room,
then do a matching symmetrical soffit on the other side. That soffit might be useful for cold air returns and maybe a wiring
chase.

How far would you suggest running the soffit? Would you think it should go all the way to the far wall where the screen would be mounted?

The usual rule of thumb is 80% (maximum) of the front wall as screen. You can push this, as many do, but it works best with
all nearby surfaces being dark and light absorptive. Light will come off a woven AT screen in a scattered fashion. The floor and
soffit will also need to light absorbing to preserve a projector's contrast ratio. A 100" wide screen should work, assuming the
projector can put up proper illumination with a 1.0 gain screen.

Would you think of a dark paint or a fabric type material to help with the light absorbing?

No experience with the Viewsonic. Don't assume a throw ratio as they vary from projector to projector.

I am not convinced on any one brand at this point. I was hoping to stay under $1000 for the projector. I don't want 3D as the technology, in my opinion, is lacking and may never get there. So I am open on suggestions here too.

Why drop ceiling? It will eat up 3" of room height, to insert tiles. Why not a drywalled ceiling?

I thought of a drop ceiling so I can easily access anything should I run into a problem with any of the mechanicals. Granted it's not a lot of mechanicals, however maybe with a soffit I could add a panel that I could pull out to access everything?

What is the power vent for (the inner of the two round ducts)? Could this run be moved over, and be hidden in a right hand
soffit? And given an access panel? (And disguised.)
The thiner duct (the one on the right of the picture) is a dryer vent, which goes to a power vent unit (that is in the top right of the picture) and extends about 1 inch below the floor joists. I believe the power vent is just a bit too large to slide over towards the outside wall above the foundation wall/sill plate. But it would easily be covered up with an added soffit on the right side.

If I were to do a solid ceiling across the whole room, after adding a subfloor and carpet, it would be a finished height of about 7' 10". Would it be worth it to do a solid ceiling, or should I shoot for doing soffits?
goodguy19 is offline  
post #17 of 27 Old 10-21-2013, 07:34 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Tedd's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Ontario
Posts: 3,849
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 15 Post(s)
Liked: 58
I would take the height and the design detail of the soffits. The soffits could also be put to further use with rope lighting
behind some crown moulding.

I'd also look at sticking the dryer duct into the soffit.

I have soffits with a 7'1" tall space. Not that an 80" high room was an option but the soffits do add some design flair.
Tedd is offline  
post #18 of 27 Old 10-22-2013, 05:33 PM - Thread Starter
Newbie
 
goodguy19's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 14
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tedd View Post

I would take the height and the design detail of the soffits. The soffits could also be put to further use with rope lighting
behind some crown moulding.

Very nice idea for adding some good looking character to the room.

I'd also look at sticking the dryer duct into the soffit. The dryer vent would definitely fit in a soffit if I had a mirrored soffit.

I have soffits with a 7'1" tall space. Not that an 80" high room was an option but the soffits do add some design flair.
I think having started with 9' ceilings before HVAC and stuff was well worth the extra money I spent doing the foundation. So this will give me a fished soffit of nearly 8' and a no soffit area of almost 9', so I am kinda luck/spoiled there.
goodguy19 is offline  
post #19 of 27 Old 10-23-2013, 05:28 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Tedd's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Ontario
Posts: 3,849
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 15 Post(s)
Liked: 58
lucky/spoiled or just plain smart? biggrin.gif
Tedd is offline  
post #20 of 27 Old 10-23-2013, 05:50 PM - Thread Starter
Newbie
 
goodguy19's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 14
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tedd View Post

lucky/spoiled or just plain smart? biggrin.gif

Yeah, I guess I can agree to that, LOL. My last house didn't have the 9' basement and that was one thing my wife and I were adamant about, biggrin.gif
goodguy19 is offline  
post #21 of 27 Old 10-25-2013, 07:19 PM - Thread Starter
Newbie
 
goodguy19's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 14
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
What would be some good lighting ideas for a theater room my size? I really want to use some type of theater dimming, something like a Lutron Grafik Eye, or similar. Would recessed lighting be a good idea, or would I be better off going with wall sconces or something else?

Thanks!
goodguy19 is offline  
post #22 of 27 Old 10-25-2013, 11:09 PM
Member
 
Cmontesi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 16
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by goodguy19 View Post

What would be some good lighting ideas for a theater room my size? I really want to use some type of theater dimming, something like a Lutron Grafik Eye, or similar. Would recessed lighting be a good idea, or would I be better off going with wall sconces or something else?

Thanks!

sconces make shadows and the appeal is okay if you have a high ceiling. Otherwise, it is going to make your room quite small and abit claustrophobic.

Recessed lights will be ideal for low-ceiling situations. Track floor lights(LED) is also a good idea if you want the whole theater look.

Cmontesi is offline  
post #23 of 27 Old 10-27-2013, 04:35 PM
AVS Special Member
 
doublewing11's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Timber Country!
Posts: 3,309
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 31 Post(s)
Liked: 189
Quote:
Originally Posted by goodguy19 View Post

What would be some good lighting ideas for a theater room my size? I really want to use some type of theater dimming, something like a Lutron Grafik Eye, or similar. Would recessed lighting be a good idea, or would I be better off going with wall sconces or something else?

Thanks!


Graffik Eye is a great control for lighting but is not cheep. There are several models of Graffik Eye ......choose appropriately for intent and purpose.

Start thinking about lighting zones with a combination of cans, well thought out locations for sconces and the infamous use of rope lighting.

Think of lighting in terms of accent and for room mobility purposes. Mapping how you will use room will dictate how you address lighting locations. What ever you do, don't short change this area.
doublewing11 is offline  
post #24 of 27 Old 10-27-2013, 05:06 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Tedd's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Ontario
Posts: 3,849
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 15 Post(s)
Liked: 58
Sconces can make shadows, but they can be very useful when you use mixed lighting types, and zone them.
An infrared programmable remote can be used to control a Lutron lighting controller which can create scenes
out of the zones of lighting. Scenes could be things like entry, washroom, exit, cleaning. movie time, music
listening, intermission...

Sconces can be used with low ceilings, but I wouldn't use them as sole light source. Depending on their
design, they can also be a source of rattles and may need some work to eliminated some rattling.

I have a Lutron 3104 controller, with a 1S entry controller outside the room. The 1S controls the 3104.
It is scene 1 or off, with scene 1 being the "entry" scene. The programmable remote controls the Lutron
for other scenes. Lighting with a well executed lighting plan, can be an incredible WOW feature.

Up lighting is another common lighting feature that works well as a single zone. And step lighting can be
a safety feature and a design feature.
Tedd is offline  
post #25 of 27 Old 11-03-2013, 05:49 PM - Thread Starter
Newbie
 
goodguy19's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 14
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tedd View Post

Sconces can make shadows, but they can be very useful when you use mixed lighting types, and zone them.
An infrared programmable remote can be used to control a Lutron lighting controller which can create scenes
out of the zones of lighting. Scenes could be things like entry, washroom, exit, cleaning. movie time, music
listening, intermission...

Sconces can be used with low ceilings, but I wouldn't use them as sole light source. Depending on their
design, they can also be a source of rattles and may need some work to eliminated some rattling.

I have a Lutron 3104 controller, with a 1S entry controller outside the room. The 1S controls the 3104.
It is scene 1 or off, with scene 1 being the "entry" scene. The programmable remote controls the Lutron
for other scenes. Lighting with a well executed lighting plan, can be an incredible WOW feature.

Up lighting is another common lighting feature that works well as a single zone. And step lighting can be
a safety feature and a design feature.

I am pretty comfortable doing most everything in my home theater, with the exception of my lighting, but I really want to learn. I really want to learn more about lighting scenes, dimming lights, etc. I am pretty comfortable putting in recessed lights, sconces, etc. It's the Lutron (or comparable) controller and setting up lighting scenes. Does anyone know of any books for dummies for this type of project? I have learned quite a number of things since building my first house, (now in my 2nd built house) such as how to do plumbing, basic electrical, sheet rocking, in ground sprinklers, etc. So I am pretty handy in learning something new. You guys have been awesome with suggestions, but I certainly can't ask for a step by step tutorial on this particular topic.

Any good online or book resources I can get my hands on?

Thanks for all the help!
goodguy19 is offline  
post #26 of 27 Old 11-04-2013, 05:13 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Tedd's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Ontario
Posts: 3,849
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 15 Post(s)
Liked: 58
Lutron's website has all the manual as pdfs, and there's a pretty good sticky thread on AVS.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/557480/the-definitive-grafik-eye-master-thread
Tedd is offline  
post #27 of 27 Old 11-04-2013, 06:47 PM - Thread Starter
Newbie
 
goodguy19's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 14
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tedd View Post

Lutron's website has all the manual as pdfs, and there's a pretty good sticky thread on AVS.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/557480/the-definitive-grafik-eye-master-thread

Outstanding!! Thank you, I now have myself some reading to do!
goodguy19 is offline  
Reply Dedicated Theater Design & Construction

User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off