post the size & AR of your screen and viewing distance from front row. - Page 2 - AVS Forum
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post #31 of 56 Old 10-21-2013, 10:22 AM
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Planning a 144" wide 2.35:1 screen, with first row at 132" back (0.91 X width).

My last theatre was 170" back from a 114" wide 2.35:1 screen (1.49 X width), so I'm considerably more aggressive this time...But I'm doing some testing which may lead me to move the seating back a foot or two.
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post #32 of 56 Old 10-21-2013, 08:03 PM
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I'm still trying to decide on screen size, and my opinion changes almost daily. Right now I'm thinking screen either 144" (12') or 166" (13'-8"). Definitely a 2.40 AR. Eyes are set at 152" (12'-8"). That's either 1.05 x width or 0.91 x width. I'm leaning towards the larger screen as I can always mask it down or just sit in the second row.

I'm planning to use an Epson 6020 on high lamp mode and an A-lens.

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post #33 of 56 Old 10-22-2013, 08:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post

I'm still trying to decide on screen size, and my opinion changes almost daily. Right now I'm thinking screen either 144" (12') or 166" (13'-8"). Definitely a 2.40 AR. Eyes are set at 152" (12'-8"). That's either 1.05 x width or 0.91 x width. I'm leaning towards the larger screen as I can always mask it down or just sit in the second row.

I'm planning to use an Epson 6020 on high lamp mode and an A-lens.

No one I'm aware of ever regretted going with the larger screen..  With that projector you're looking at like 39 ft/lamberts of light on the screen.  That's plenty for 2d movies but probably not enough for 3d.

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post #34 of 56 Old 10-22-2013, 08:47 PM
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Of course, that's theoretical..  One note about manufacturers Lumen speq.  "they lie".  The Epson 6020 is listed as 2400 lumens.  Of course that's with color temp set at 14,000 Kelvin, brightness and contrast maxed, and a dozen other tricks to get a good reading.  When you calibrate to ISF standards you end up with a lot less light on the screen.  So that 39 ft/lamberts turns into like 27 or 28.  Then you divide that by 3 for 3d....  So speqs are meaningless unless you know all the details.

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post #35 of 56 Old 10-22-2013, 08:52 PM
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I came up with somewhere between 12 and 17 ft-l based on a good calibrations that balanced brightness for reasonable PQ. I don't remember the site I used for the spec, but I think it was around 1700 lumens. That 12-17 ft-l also takes into account the throw distance and a 25% loss due to bulb aging. From what I understand 12 ft-l
Is considered the minimum most people are happy with. I'm not concerned with 3D. It's been a while since I ran the numbers, so I may be off a little there, but that's ballpark.

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post #36 of 56 Old 10-22-2013, 10:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by audioguy View Post

What PJ do you use to light up a 150" wide screen?

I use a sony 50es projector in a dedicated room . It is plenty brite but i use high power mode.
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post #37 of 56 Old 10-22-2013, 10:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RossoDiamante View Post

Hanging around here can give you an inferiority complex!  I thought I had a big screen, but at the end of the day relative to those posted I'm about average!  :-)

140" wide, 2.35 -- 12.5 ft. distance

We are exactly the same regarding screen and viewing distance.

As far as average.........I don't think I'd want a bigger screen in a 17 ft wide room.......so average is ok by me.wink.gif
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post #38 of 56 Old 10-23-2013, 10:23 AM
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Regarding the lumens. This is an oft overlooked stat as folks naturally want to put in the biggest screen that can fit in their room. And many end up with dim screens. A lens helps but just bc you have one does not mean you automatically have a bright enough screen.

Most people are not calculating lumens starting from calibrated lumens which will dramatically drop the lumens. And then you need to consider how much your room is washing out the image by reflecting light back on the screen.

That brings us to high lamp mode. I am not sure why folks don't use this more often. If they need it of course. People seem to freak out about having to buy another 300-500 dollar lamp after spending 10 20 30 thousand on their room. It makes no sense to me. I mean what is it maybe another 100-200 bucks a year? If it gives you another few lumens then why not? I plan to use it for my JVC rs45 and no gain screen and no lens. So I will need all the lumens I can get.
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post #39 of 56 Old 10-23-2013, 11:57 AM
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^^ The brightness issue is why I went through the exercise of calculating the expected brightness for my application under conditions that I feel comfortable with. There are those that will not be happy unless their PJ is calibrated perfectly. That's awesome if that's your thing, but I'm not that guy. I'm happy as long as it's close. I'm not saying either way is right or wrong, just that everyone needs to evaluate their preferences. With that in mind, I can run a PJ in its brightest mode and find a calibration that balances light output and color accuracy. The downside to that unfortunately is noise. I'll likely to have build a hushbox to keep the fan noise from being an issue, but there are no free rides smile.gif

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post #40 of 56 Old 10-23-2013, 02:19 PM
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Yes the noise could be an issue for some who have the pj in the room and no hush box. I plan to have mine outside the room to get around this problem. We will see how well it works.
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post #41 of 56 Old 10-23-2013, 05:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post

^^ The brightness issue is why I went through the exercise of calculating the expected brightness for my application under conditions that I feel comfortable with. There are those that will not be happy unless their PJ is calibrated perfectly. That's awesome if that's your thing, but I'm not that guy. I'm happy as long as it's close. I'm not saying either way is right or wrong, just that everyone needs to evaluate their preferences. With that in mind, I can run a PJ in its brightest mode and find a calibration that balances light output and color accuracy. The downside to that unfortunately is noise. I'll likely to have build a hushbox to keep the fan noise from being an issue, but there are no free rides smile.gif

I'm confused!!! You are sooooooo anal retentive on details with your build but are willing to be only close with your projector rather than perfect? Trying to insert confused icon...................biggrin.gif


I've seen dim projectors on large screens.............no thank you. With high lamp enabled............sound becomes an issue, but you have been so detailed oriented concerning HVAC/hush box sound issues..........well, it makes little sense.........at least to me. You have a great build.................you deserve a perfectly thrown picture for your screen!!!! wink.gif
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post #42 of 56 Old 10-23-2013, 05:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jedimastergrant View Post

Yes the noise could be an issue for some who have the pj in the room and no hush box. I plan to have mine outside the room to get around this problem. We will see how well it works.

No noise issue with projector in my room..............I can't hear it. Roger even commented how quiet and insignificant the sound from projector was. Guess I'm lucky! biggrin.gif

Building a hush box would be next to impossible in my application.......................
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post #43 of 56 Old 10-23-2013, 05:43 PM
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120" wide 2.35:1 AR. Front row eyes 11' 6". Back row eyes 15'. Viewing distance may change slightly once theater seating replaces the current furniture.
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post #44 of 56 Old 10-23-2013, 06:17 PM
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More mortal room:

106", 16:9 AR. First row is about 7-8 feet back. Projector is Sony VPL-VW60.
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post #45 of 56 Old 10-23-2013, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by doublewing11 View Post


I'm confused!!! You are sooooooo anal retentive on details with your build but are willing to be only close with your projector rather than perfect? Trying to insert confused icon...................biggrin.gif


I've seen dim projectors on large screens.............no thank you. With high lamp enabled............sound becomes an issue, but you have been so detailed oriented concerning HVAC/hush box sound issues..........well, it makes little sense.........at least to me. You have a great build.................you deserve a perfectly thrown picture for your screen!!!! wink.gif

Haha! Point taken. This is a matter of compromise for me. I'd love to have a perfectly calibrated image on a 170" screen at 30 fl. Sadly, I can't afford it. So I had to decide what was important to me. If I have to pick between screen size, image brightness, and spot on calibration, well, I'm willing to sacrifice a little color accuracy if I can get a large AND bright image as a tradeoff. Of course, I'm also banking on PJs getting brighter and brighter every few years as well. So maybe one day I can have my cake and eat it, too smile.gif

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post #46 of 56 Old 10-23-2013, 07:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post


Haha! Point taken. This is a matter of compromise for me. I'd love to have a perfectly calibrated image on a 170" screen at 30 fl. Sadly, I can't afford it. So I had to decide what was important to me. If I have to pick between screen size, image brightness, and spot on calibration, well, I'm willing to sacrifice a little color accuracy if I can get a large AND bright image as a tradeoff. Of course, I'm also banking on PJs getting brighter and brighter every few years as well. So maybe one day I can have my cake and eat it, too smile.gif

Yup, shooting a big screen is easy.  Shooting the screen brightly is hard.  Shooting the screen brightly and calibrated is expensive.  My 184" screen is ISF calibrated beyond detectable thresholds... of course my projector cost over $50,000... (with a $15,000 Anamorphic lens).  That's usually they easy answer to any problem.. throw money at it..

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post #47 of 56 Old 10-23-2013, 09:05 PM
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post #48 of 56 Old 10-23-2013, 09:12 PM
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Count me in on the "hoping that brightness tech comes a long way in the next few years" camp. I bought my zero gain screen with this hope in mind. I am just too sensitive to the "sparkles" seen in gain screens.

Back to the original topic.......I am thinking about moving my first row up 6 inches or maybe even a foot if I don't feel the experience is immersive enough. It could be an issue with 1.78 material on my screen. And since I have the EN4K I at least the screen itself won't hold me back from doing just that. I will see pixels before I see screen structure.

Of course any time you move your seating position you have to consider the acoustic implications. Even 6 inches could matter so I will have to do some measurements to see just how large my "envelope of bliss" actually is!
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post #49 of 56 Old 10-24-2013, 05:10 AM
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Originally Posted by robertintemple View Post

Yup, shooting a big screen is easy.  Shooting the screen brightly is hard.  Shooting the screen brightly and calibrated is expensive.  My 184" screen is ISF calibrated beyond detectable thresholds... of course my projector cost over $50,000... (with a $15,000 Anamorphic lens).  That's usually they easy answer to any problem.. throw money at it..

Which anamorphic lens runs $15K? I use the excellent ISCO III I paid $6K almost 8 years ago.

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post #50 of 56 Old 10-24-2013, 06:30 AM
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We are exactly the same regarding screen and viewing distance.

As far as average........I don't think I'd want a bigger screen in a 17 ft wide room.......so average is ok by me.wink.gif


I agree. I was actually fortune enough to be able to "test drive" pretty much the exact same setup at a local Best Buy because I was extremely concerned about the viewing distance and the field of view (viewing angle) of this configuration. I found that this is right at the upper limit of what I was comfortable with.

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post #51 of 56 Old 10-24-2013, 07:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post

Haha! Point taken. This is a matter of compromise for me. I'd love to have a perfectly calibrated image on a 170" screen at 30 fl. Sadly, I can't afford it. So I had to decide what was important to me. If I have to pick between screen size, image brightness, and spot on calibration, well, I'm willing to sacrifice a little color accuracy if I can get a large AND bright image as a tradeoff. Of course, I'm also banking on PJs getting brighter and brighter every few years as well. So maybe one day I can have my cake and eat it, too smile.gif

I think that is is a very salient point. And one that I also used in selecting my screen size. I went with a screen size for which the project should be marginal to adequate but certainly not bright. But the reality of the industry is that every couple of years projectors get brighter and sharper. Let alone the fact that you are generally getting this increased performance cheaper as well!

For those spending non-trivial amounts of time, energy, and money on a dedicated theater space, you will likely go through a couple of projector generations before you are going to make any changes to the room, so just plan on the equipment catching up to your design and desires! It's just about inevitable.

That being said, you have to be realistic. If you are trying to light up a 12' wide, no gain screen in a family room with four 7' x 7' picture windows, technology will probably not catch up fast enough. But if you are close, then I'd lean towards the bigger screen.

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post #52 of 56 Old 10-24-2013, 08:39 AM
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Eyes are 138" from a 115" wide 2.35:1 screen.

Ratio of 1.2 is magical to me! Just love it.

My upcoming theater is going to have a 160" wide screen, and I'm trying to stay very close to this ratio, perhaps a tiny bit less.

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post #53 of 56 Old 10-24-2013, 11:10 AM
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Which anamorphic lens runs $15K? I use the excellent ISCO III I paid $6K almost 8 years ago.

https://www.schneideroptics.com/ecommerce/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?CID=91&IID=6835

 

Lens was like $12,800 and the motorized lens swing was about $2,700

 

https://www.schneideroptics.com/Ecommerce/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?CID=91&IID=8243

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post #54 of 56 Old 10-24-2013, 11:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RossoDiamante View Post
  I think that is is a very salient point. And one that I also used in selecting my screen size. I went with a screen size for which the project should be marginal to adequate but certainly not bright. But the reality of the industry is that every couple of years projectors get brighter and sharper. Let alone the fact that you are generally getting this increased performance cheaper as well!

For those spending non-trivial amounts of time, energy, and money on a dedicated theater space, you will likely go through a couple of projector generations before you are going to make any changes to the room, so just plan on the equipment catching up to your design and desires! It's just about inevitable.

That being said, you have to be realistic. If you are trying to light up a 12' wide, no gain screen in a family room with four 7' x 7' picture windows, technology will probably not catch up fast enough. But if you are close, then I'd lean towards the bigger screen.

One other answer to light hungry applications is to stack projectors.  Two good 2500-3000 lumen projectors will throw out a lot of light...

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post #55 of 56 Old 11-02-2013, 03:26 PM
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Just put up the 115" diagonal 16x9 screen - just a hair over 100" wide. First row is currently about 14 feet from the screen (I keep an area open in front for workout/xbox room, so we're a bit further back than most.

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post #56 of 56 Old 11-02-2013, 08:09 PM
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8.5' eyeball length from a 120" 16x9 screen.
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