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post #361 of 1323 Old 02-25-2014, 05:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dlbeck View Post

It certainly helps that there are 2-3 guys working on it every day eek.gif
I was kind of curious how one man could build this stuff so fast. Looks great. They're doing a nice job for you.
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post #362 of 1323 Old 02-25-2014, 05:35 AM - Thread Starter
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Well it's certainly an iterative process. None of the guys have ever built a home theater like this so every night I spend 2-3 hours answering all the questions from the builder. Last night I detailed out all the dimensions of the fabric panels and also spec'd the stage dimensions with the screen opening and panels. Typically every weekend I have to complete a set number of tasks so everyone can keep humming along.

Lots of fun!
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post #363 of 1323 Old 02-25-2014, 12:28 PM
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For me I finished my whole basement first before really starting on the theater room. OK, well it was more of a frame everything else first, then the theater, then run all of the electrical to everything else first, and then the theater, etc. The theater was that last room to get drywall, the last room to get the door, last room for paint etc.

After finishing 1700 sqft, including the manually breaking up, removal, and replacement of 1.1 tons of concrete to move a basement bathroom stub, re-plumbing a lot, moving a main support beam in the basement, and so on... All by myself, the theater was hard to get motivated to work on. I had deadlines, but was just beat. It took me 9 months from the first breaking of the concrete, to the last bit of paint, etc. Add to that time that I travel about 1 week a month for work, and it is just under 7 months. Throw into the mix a vacation, college visits with my oldest, and other normal stuff, and I would have LOVED to have help. Either that, or if I could have had a 1 month break before really putting the theater together would have been nice, but we were on a deadline to be done before my oldest's high school graduation. The night before I was building the screen frame and false wall frames. Nothing like cutting it down to the wire.

Since then I have done a lot of tweaking and tuning and such in the theater. I still have to build the wet bar, and the entire baseboard trim still needs to be purchased, cut, painted, installed for everything. Someday.... Maybe... rolleyes.gif
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post #364 of 1323 Old 02-25-2014, 08:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Update:

*Wrapping up the trim work toward the rear of the room
*Installing the crown
*Started the baffle wall

Starting the stage woodwork tomorrow ...excited to see how that will turn out.



Think I can fit a sub in here?


View toward the back of the room. Ended up putting wainscoting between the rear columns


The first section of the baffle wall
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post #365 of 1323 Old 02-25-2014, 09:07 PM
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Looking great David!
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post #366 of 1323 Old 02-25-2014, 09:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Brad.

Also, decided to split the ceiling into two different sections so I can stretch fabric across the front 1/4 of the room to hide acoustic treatments. The plan is to add a divider that will run parallel to the screen which will run about 4' away from the front of the soffit. The front soffit area which will be 4' x 12' will be covered with fabric frames similar to the walls. Inside the soffit area I'm going to follow Nyal's acoustic treatment plan by adding 2x4' panels at the first ceiling reflection point. The soffit area above the seating area will remain as-is, surrounded by crown and contain rope lighting as previously planned.

Looks like the fabric will be delivered tomorrow.
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post #367 of 1323 Old 02-25-2014, 09:54 PM - Thread Starter
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post #368 of 1323 Old 02-26-2014, 03:01 AM
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Curved! (And 16x9 if you console game a lot - people tend to forget games are almost all 16x9)

"Without subs it's just background music - with subs it's the main event!"
Archaea's Theatre Room
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post #369 of 1323 Old 02-26-2014, 06:29 AM
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If you plan on going with an a-lens, then I would go curved. If not, would there really be any point? They do look cool though.
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post #370 of 1323 Old 02-26-2014, 10:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Archaea View Post

Curved! (And 16x9 if you console game a lot - people tend to forget games are almost all 16x9)
That is why you game with a PC on a 2.35 screen!



24Changer and PaulFSemicolen like this.
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post #371 of 1323 Old 02-26-2014, 11:11 AM
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I have a Panamorph 380 A-Lens on a 120" screen (2.35:1) with a 16 ft throw, and I don't see any need for a curved screen. I'm not a fan of curved screens -- I think they are another way to separate us from our loose change....
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post #372 of 1323 Old 02-26-2014, 11:15 AM
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If your throw ratio is long there is no need for a curved screen, I have the Panamorph 480 on a flat screen without issue. The small amount of curvature is not noticeable.
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post #373 of 1323 Old 02-26-2014, 12:23 PM
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@desertdome

Those are some nice photoshopped images. tongue.gif
In all seriousness though, I have been afraid to game on my 138" screen in my theater room... Afraid that I will like it so much that I will never leave.

I did some gaming years ago with an Xbox on a 104" screen with a 720p projector (again, this was many years ago). It was awesome.
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post #374 of 1323 Old 02-26-2014, 12:24 PM
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Technically, you could go with either one. The curved will allow slightly better picture geometry, but like Big said, it's not a noticeable difference on a flat screen. Curved screens also reduce the amount of light scatter on the side walls. But these slight improvements generally don't justify a significant cost delta.
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post #375 of 1323 Old 02-26-2014, 12:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nickbuol View Post

Those are some nice photoshopped images. tongue.gif
I've only played Need for Speed: Shift with my projector and my 126" 16:9 screen, but it sure is fun. Those images are from this thread:
2.35:1 PC Gaming - Powered by Lumagen
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post #376 of 1323 Old 02-26-2014, 06:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Update:

Good progress today...

*Finished the framing of the doors and added trim around the doors


*Made two of the fabric frames so we can wrap them in fabric and make sure they fit


*Made the components of the baffle wall but did not install on the stage yet


*Built the front soffit divider that will contain the first reflection ceiling treatments


*Fabric arrived
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post #377 of 1323 Old 02-26-2014, 06:52 PM - Thread Starter
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After conversations with Nyal and Panamorph, I decided to go with the flat screen. By the way, the guys at Panamorph are amazing and are always willing to help. With my throw ratio of 1.76, it's right on the borderline for going with a curved screen. Panamorph recommended that I go with a flat screen and if my throw ratio was less than 1.60 they would definitely recommend a curved screen. Here is the email from Panamorph.

==============
The pincushion can be manipulated by your throw ratio. Typically, with shorter throw ratios (1.8 and lower) you experience a lot more pincushion than you would at a 2.0 or greater throw ratio. This is based on the 16:9 image width. At Panamorph we have always recommended using curved screens if you are below a 1.8 throw ratio. I myself have a flat screen and my throw ratio is around 2.2. I have very minimal pincushion and just overscan slightly into the screen border.

Feel free to call us here and we can go over this with you.
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post #378 of 1323 Old 02-26-2014, 07:40 PM
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Wow - good timely feedback from Panamorph, and BIG!

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Check out a video of my theater here
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post #379 of 1323 Old 02-27-2014, 07:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Update:

Starting to really look like a home theater. Most the major framing is done on the stage and now working on the front panels. Still lots left. I'm happy because they figured out how to save me 5" behind the screen so more room for my baffle wall and speakers.


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post #380 of 1323 Old 02-27-2014, 08:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Second update:

*Ordered six 4" OC703 panels for the ceiling.
*Ordered a roll of 75 lb kraft paper to put on the face of the OC703. It tapers off the high frequency absorption so the room doesn't become too dead. Also the JTRs do not throw much upper mid / treble vertically (take a look at the vertical off axis a few posts back).
*Ordered Rotofast cloud anchors to hang the OC703 off the ceiling
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post #381 of 1323 Old 02-27-2014, 08:23 PM - Thread Starter
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I need to paint the bottom of the soffit this weekend. So in the last picture I posted, I'm referring to the white part around the outskirts of the room that has the can lights as well. Should I paint this area dark brown like the columns will be or should I paint this area dark blue to match the fabric and ceiling area? This area also includes about 4' directly in front of the screen so it will be getting a lot of the light reflection off the screen. Looking for input. Thanks!!
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post #382 of 1323 Old 02-27-2014, 08:40 PM
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David, did you quit your job?!?! tongue.gif

Seriously, I'm amazed at how quickly this is coming together. Seems like it took me longer to "build" 8 flat pack subs! biggrin.gif
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post #383 of 1323 Old 02-27-2014, 08:57 PM - Thread Starter
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I wish I could take the credit but I can only take the credit for the unskilled labor on the weekend smile.gif

There are 3 professional trim carpenters working on the theater every day. I hope they are finished up early next week.
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post #384 of 1323 Old 02-28-2014, 02:06 AM
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Cruising right along...looks great! At this rate it looks like the sawdust phase will end by early next week.

My opinion on the paint would be dark brown for aesthetics and to suck up a bit more reflected light since it is closer to black in color.
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post #385 of 1323 Old 02-28-2014, 04:44 AM
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Looking great. Ur room is coming together really nice and fast!
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post #386 of 1323 Old 02-28-2014, 05:00 AM
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I would opt for brown as well, if for no other reason than I don't like the thought of any blue or any red walls in a viewing room.

I love my iPhone, but it will never replace my turntable.

The Cinema 1858 Remodel Thread
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post #387 of 1323 Old 02-28-2014, 05:15 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Tim & Jim. It is moving along fast and I can't wait to hook everything up.

I'll go with the dark brown on the soffit ceiling. I should be able to get that done Saturday so I'll post pics this weekend.
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post #388 of 1323 Old 02-28-2014, 08:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dlbeck View Post

I wish I could take the credit but I can only take the credit for the unskilled labor on the weekend smile.gif

There are 3 professional trim carpenters working on the theater every day. I hope they are finished up early next week.


Yeah but I'm betting it is taking up almost all your free time right now. It will be sooo worth it and it looks like the end is closer to being in sight!
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post #389 of 1323 Old 02-28-2014, 02:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dlbeck View Post

I need to paint the bottom of the soffit this weekend. So in the last picture I posted, I'm referring to the white part around the outskirts of the room that has the can lights as well. Should I paint this area dark brown like the columns will be or should I paint this area dark blue to match the fabric and ceiling area? This area also includes about 4' directly in front of the screen so it will be getting a lot of the light reflection off the screen. Looking for input. Thanks!!
I vote dark borwn
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post #390 of 1323 Old 02-28-2014, 03:01 PM
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The front stage is looking very nice.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dlbeck View Post

Ordered Rotofast cloud anchors to hang the OC703 off the ceiling
Thanks for mentioning them. I used J-Hooks screwed to the frames to hang my OC703 off the ceiling. I'm making some more treatments and will probably use the cloud anchors. How are you making the frames?
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