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post #91 of 1714 Old 12-01-2013, 01:03 PM
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I'm in (subscribed) Matt,

Looking forward to seeing the progress. Good luck and may the money tree grow in your new back yard. smile.gif
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post #92 of 1714 Old 12-01-2013, 02:10 PM
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Mr. Beast,

You are are home theater champion. That is already established. So I'm sure this new version will be spectacular!

On your screen choice: You are going 2:35:1, awesome. Since you haven't mentioned an anamorphic lens, I presume you'll be zooming the Sony, right?
(Personally, even though I own an A-lens myself, I wouldn't bother with one when using a projector with sufficient brightness for zooming, and lens memories, like the Sony 500 you are purchasing).

Since you've thought of everything else, I'm wondering if you had put any thought into a masking system? It truly is the finishing touch in terms of image quality/presentation, and once you've lived with a decent masking system it's hard to imagine being without one (it's the single best and most important feature to me in my home theater; I'd sooner downgrade the projector somewhat before doing away with the masking, since I've seen how huge the impact of masking is even with much cheaper projectors).

I can see reasons you might not bother with masking. If you are zooming between 16:9/1:85:1/2:35:1 on a 2:35:1 then, at least for 1:85:1 movies you won't be seeing "projected black bars" on the sides as you would with 2:35:1 projecting black bars on a 16:9 screen. Hence any unprojected area on the sides beyond your 16:9 image on your 2:35:1 screen can be darker than the typical "black projected bars" on 16:9 screens. (Though if you show 4:3 content on your 2:35:1 , you will get projected black to the sides, as you know).

Still, I've got a batcave, a JVC projector and an ST-130 screen, and employing my side masking for 16:9 movies on my wider screen still looks much better than leaving it unmasked.

Just..you know...if you are going for that last bit o' perfection thing.

Wait...after typing all of that I just remembered: don't you use a Lumagen to re-size/stretch the image to always fill your 2:35:1 screen with whatever content you are watching? If so...as beloved SNL's Emily Litella would say "Oh...Never Mind...."
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post #93 of 1714 Old 12-01-2013, 07:16 PM
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Subscribed - looking forward to seeing the build progress!

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post #94 of 1714 Old 12-01-2013, 07:23 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm in (subscribed) Matt,

Looking forward to seeing the progress. Good luck and may the money tree grow in your new back yard. smile.gif

 

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Mr. Beast,

You are are home theater champion. That is already established. So I'm sure this new version will be spectacular!

On your screen choice: You are going 2:35:1, awesome. Since you haven't mentioned an anamorphic lens, I presume you'll be zooming the Sony, right?
(Personally, even though I own an A-lens myself, I wouldn't bother with one when using a projector with sufficient brightness for zooming, and lens memories, like the Sony 500 you are purchasing).

Since you've thought of everything else, I'm wondering if you had put any thought into a masking system? It truly is the finishing touch in terms of image quality/presentation, and once you've lived with a decent masking system it's hard to imagine being without one (it's the single best and most important feature to me in my home theater; I'd sooner downgrade the projector somewhat before doing away with the masking, since I've seen how huge the impact of masking is even with much cheaper projectors).

I can see reasons you might not bother with masking. If you are zooming between 16:9/1:85:1/2:35:1 on a 2:35:1 then, at least for 1:85:1 movies you won't be seeing "projected black bars" on the sides as you would with 2:35:1 projecting black bars on a 16:9 screen. Hence any unprojected area on the sides beyond your 16:9 image on your 2:35:1 screen can be darker than the typical "black projected bars" on 16:9 screens. (Though if you show 4:3 content on your 2:35:1 , you will get projected black to the sides, as you know).

Still, I've got a batcave, a JVC projector and an ST-130 screen, and employing my side masking for 16:9 movies on my wider screen still looks much better than leaving it unmasked.

Just..you know...if you are going for that last bit o' perfection thing.

Wait...after typing all of that I just remembered: don't you use a Lumagen to re-size/stretch the image to always fill your 2:35:1 screen with whatever content you are watching? If so...as beloved SNL's Emily Litella would say "Oh...Never Mind...."

 

Greetings Mr. Harkness, I'm familiar with your superb room--a real knockout. I love your current masking implementation--the Constant Image Area concept is a great one.  I read a post you made once where you pointed out a truth that not many of us discuss: some movies simply look dreadful on a massive screen, and the ability to scale them down is very useful. 

 

I've definitely considered a few masking options in my brainstorming sessions, but man--for my uses, nothing beats the Lumagen for 2:35 all the time!  That being said, I'm still considering an anamorphic lens--not for aspect ratio switching (as the Lumagen can still employ NLS with a permanent A. Lens installed), but for brightness retention.  The screen size I'm shooting for (12 feet wide) will need all the light it can get--even from the Sony 600ES, so once a decently-priced Anamorphic Lens is released with 4k compatibility, I'll be pulling the trigger on that one.  

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post #95 of 1714 Old 12-01-2013, 07:36 PM - Thread Starter
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Subscribed - looking forward to seeing the build progress!

 

Welcome South Carolina!!! Looks like you love your home state bro!  Makes me want to change by username to New York :cool:

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post #96 of 1714 Old 12-01-2013, 07:38 PM - Thread Starter
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I have recently decided that my theater will be one row instead of two, although I'll still be employing a riser, and will likely use a row of 5 in a curved configuration. Although the room has a length of 18ft, I'll definitely need to give two feet up behind the screen wall, which means depth is now 16 feet, which is perfectly fine--as it lets me fine-tune the perfect seating distance for the large screen. 

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post #97 of 1714 Old 12-01-2013, 07:56 PM
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so once a decently-priced Anamorphic Lens is released with 4k compatibility, I'll be pulling the trigger on that one.  

I could certainly be wrong on this but I don't think there is such as thing as an A-Lens that cares or knows about 4K or 2K or anything else. And the Panamorph is certainly decently priced, particularly if you get the fixed version.

I will be using my motorized sled Panamorph with my 600ES that I have on my JVC. I had to purchase a new mounting plate from Panamorph to mount the PJ and sled on so I assume that given they sold me one, it will work. You may want to call around on this issue and I know there are A-Lens users for the Sony 1000.

And I'm with you. While I have the same screen size that I was using with my JVC RS55 in my other room, because I am having to drop the gain to get a reasonably price AT screen, I sure don't want to give up the extra brightness that the A-Lens provides.

Even when I'm not having a particularly good day, I am at least having a day!

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post #98 of 1714 Old 12-01-2013, 09:15 PM
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I figured you had the bases covered already.

As for a 4K ready A-lens, check out this article by the Cine4home guys where they show the Panamorph UH480 does fine for 4K images:

http://www.cine4home.de/tests/sonstiges/Panamorph_UH480/Panamoprh_UH480.htm

Translation:

http://translate.google.com/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&js=n&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.cine4home.de%2Ftests%2Fsonstiges%2FPanamorph_UH480%2FPanamoprh_UH480.htm

Note the conclusion: "We were very surprised by our test that both Panamorph anamorphic lenses are actually prepared for the 4K resolution: They provoke no optical loss of sharpness, the minimal color fringing can be corrected, the linearity is excellent, only the image geometry shows the typical cushion distortion, but subtle precipitates and can be balanced with a curved screen."

The Panamorph UH40 is quite cheap by A-lens standards (and you can often find very good used sale prices on them - I did, as well as for my UH480's automated sled).

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Originally Posted by BrolicBeast View Post

 That being said, I'm still considering an anamorphic lens--not for aspect ratio switching (as the Lumagen can still employ NLS with a permanent A. Lens installed), but for brightness retention.  The screen size I'm shooting for (12 feet wide) will need all the light it can get--even from the Sony 600ES, so once a decently-priced Anamorphic Lens is released with 4k compatibility, I'll be pulling the trigger on that one.  

Perhaps you've already done the research, but just in case: the amount of brightness gain you'll get with adding an A-lens is variable, depending on how any particular Projector's zoom lens operates. JVC projectors, for instance, increase brightness as you zoom out, so keeping the JVC unzoomed and adding an A-lens gives a modest difference in brightness vs zooming method. I don't know about the Sony but it does seem from the article that you do get a noticeable rise in brightness when using the Panamorph UH480 lens over zooming. Cine4home states it's a 28 percent brightness increase for scope images, using the Panamorph lens on the Sony.

That said, I'd still caution about staking too much on adding brightness via an A-lens over zooming. I personally would want to calculate my satisfaction with brightness based on the projector on it's own and think of the A-lens more of a convenience. FWIW....
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post #99 of 1714 Old 12-01-2013, 09:29 PM
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I personally would want to calculate my satisfaction with brightness based on the projector on it's own and think of the A-lens more of a convenience. FWIW....

If I did not already own the U480 and sled I would agree with you. And my recommendation to Matt would be to hold off on spending the money for the A-Lens until you have lived with the naked PJ for a while.

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post #100 of 1714 Old 12-02-2013, 02:47 PM - Thread Starter
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R. Harkness and Audioguy, thanks for that great advice guys!  I shall indeed heed thy words.  I"ll go ahead and start off with the zoom method to establish a performance baseline of the projector.  If I feel the need for the anamorphic lens at a later time, then I"ll spring for the U480, now that I know that it's 4k compatible.

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post #101 of 1714 Old 12-02-2013, 02:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R Harkness View Post

I figured you had the bases covered already.

As for a 4K ready A-lens, check out this article by the Cine4home guys where they show the Panamorph UH480 does fine for 4K images:

http://www.cine4home.de/tests/sonstiges/Panamorph_UH480/Panamoprh_UH480.htm

Translation:

http://translate.google.com/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&js=n&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.cine4home.de%2Ftests%2Fsonstiges%2FPanamorph_UH480%2FPanamoprh_UH480.htm

Note the conclusion: "We were very surprised by our test that both Panamorph anamorphic lenses are actually prepared for the 4K resolution: They provoke no optical loss of sharpness, the minimal color fringing can be corrected, the linearity is excellent, only the image geometry shows the typical cushion distortion, but subtle precipitates and can be balanced with a curved screen."

The Panamorph UH40 is quite cheap by A-lens standards (and you can often find very good used sale prices on them - I did, as well as for my UH480's automated sled).
Perhaps you've already done the research, but just in case: the amount of brightness gain you'll get with adding an A-lens is variable, depending on how any particular Projector's zoom lens operates. JVC projectors, for instance, increase brightness as you zoom out, so keeping the JVC unzoomed and adding an A-lens gives a modest difference in brightness vs zooming method. I don't know about the Sony but it does seem from the article that you do get a noticeable rise in brightness when using the Panamorph UH480 lens over zooming. Cine4home states it's a 28 percent brightness increase for scope images, using the Panamorph lens on the Sony.

That said, I'd still caution about staking too much on adding brightness via an A-lens over zooming. I personally would want to calculate my satisfaction with brightness based on the projector on it's own and think of the A-lens more of a convenience. FWIW....


 This information was extremely helpful......I read the article twice to make sure I got everything.  Thanks for posting the link man!

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post #102 of 1714 Old 12-03-2013, 07:04 AM
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Hey Matt, Just to weigh in on your brightness discussion since you came to the theater last weekend. I am currently using the Sony VW95ES on a 130" wide SMX woven (1.1 gain advertised) screen. It is pretty much identical to the Seymour Centerstage screens in quality and price. I have been running that first bulb on high setting from the beginning, so after 2 years of quite a lot of use, you can see how bright it still was. (MUCH better than our old Panny was after one year) For 2D it has been plenty bright and the picture still looks good (to me) but you can judge based on what you saw, since I'm sure the lumens should be pretty similar if not better on the new Sony. 3D is of course darker, and I think I remember Green Lantern being a little dim for 3D but pretty much every other movie was still good at that size.

Looks like your equipment is top notch! As far as reversible GOM panels, you do run into some issues. First is tension on both sides. When you need to stretch GOM to be flush on one side of a panel, you usually staple it down on the back side. Now if you want it to reverse you would need material on the other side. It would be easier to build 2 sets of panels and just replace one with the other. You can make them hollow and attach the soundproofing to the wall itself so the frame fits around it so you don't have to buy twice the cotton. OR you could make basically two panels (Twice as thick) and stick them together. Plus if it is reversible then the side facing the wall will likely pick up a bunch of dust. I'd advise against that route.
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post #103 of 1714 Old 12-03-2013, 09:18 AM - Thread Starter
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Hey Matt, Just to weigh in on your brightness discussion since you came to the theater last weekend. I am currently using the Sony VW95ES on a 130" wide SMX woven (1.1 gain advertised) screen. It is pretty much identical to the Seymour Centerstage screens in quality and price. I have been running that first bulb on high setting from the beginning, so after 2 years of quite a lot of use, you can see how bright it still was. (MUCH better than our old Panny was after one year) For 2D it has been plenty bright and the picture still looks good (to me) but you can judge based on what you saw, since I'm sure the lumens should be pretty similar if not better on the new Sony. 3D is of course darker, and I think I remember Green Lantern being a little dim for 3D but pretty much every other movie was still good at that size.

Looks like your equipment is top notch! As far as reversible GOM panels, you do run into some issues. First is tension on both sides. When you need to stretch GOM to be flush on one side of a panel, you usually staple it down on the back side. Now if you want it to reverse you would need material on the other side. It would be easier to build 2 sets of panels and just replace one with the other. You can make them hollow and attach the soundproofing to the wall itself so the frame fits around it so you don't have to buy twice the cotton. OR you could make basically two panels (Twice as thick) and stick them together. Plus if it is reversible then the side facing the wall will likely pick up a bunch of dust. I'd advise against that route.

Hey John, I appreciate the advice on the reversible panel avoidance.  I think I might just go ahead and create two sets of panels and I'm going to take your suggestion and fasten the sound treatment material (cotton or linacoustic) to the wall itself to facilitate the panel swapping.  The base color theme for the theater will be black, but the secondary colors I’m considering for the swappable panels are 1) Gold and 2) Brown. If I find myself with some extra materials, I might make a third set in a radical color like fuscia, for when the Mrs. hosts movie nights with her friends.  I don’t have to worry about alignment before attaching;  I’ll also be shooting for the same panel design that you have.  I’m particularly taken by the panel edges which create a really cool look.

 

I think hope the Sony 600ES should be able to produce at least 1200 lumens after calibration in low lamp mode (compared to the approximately 700 calibrated lumens in my last projector, the JVC RS-56), so kicking it into high-mode should hopefully be more than enough--especially for items for which an extra brightness punch is great, like games or animated films.  Your Sony 95ES is plenty bright for that size screen in high mode, which is just over a foot shorter than my target screen size.  I’ll do two calibrations; one for high mode, and one for low lamp mode, just in case I need to switch between the two for any reason.

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post #104 of 1714 Old 12-03-2013, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by BrolicBeast View Post

Hey John, I appreciate the advice on the reversible panel avoidance.  I think I might just go ahead and create two sets of panels and I'm going to take your suggestion and fasten the sound treatment material (cotton or linacoustic) to the wall itself to facilitate the panel swapping.  The base color theme for the theater will be black, but the secondary colors I’m considering for the swappable panels are 1) Gold and 2) Brown. If I find myself with some extra materials, I might make a third set in a radical color like fuscia, for when the Mrs. hosts movie nights with her friends.  I don’t have to worry about alignment before attaching;  I’ll also be shooting for the same panel design that you have.  I’m particularly taken by the panel edges which create a really cool look.

I think hope the Sony 600ES should be able to produce at least 1200 lumens after calibration in low lamp mode (compared to the approximately 700 calibrated lumens in my last projector, the JVC RS-56), so kicking it into high-mode should hopefully be more than enough--especially for items for which an extra brightness punch is great, like games or animated films.  Your Sony 95ES is plenty bright for that size screen in high mode, which is just over a foot shorter than my target screen size.  I’ll do two calibrations; one for high mode, and one for low lamp mode, just in case I need to switch between the two for any reason.

Yeah I still have never calibrated my projector. It looks pretty good color wise but not knowing how to do it bugs me. I was going to get a lumagen for that too + the autocal but I never pulled the trigger.

The panels we made involved a lot of ripping and gluing by big. Fortunately he knows how to do it so he could help you with that if you are using him and we've already done testing on how rigid different materials are.

If you are wanting to be able to swap panels, you will probably want to look at things like those Snap-Studs people are putting into theirs, or even try some rare-earth magnets. They don't need the strength to have it free-float on the wall, but only enough to keep it hugging the wall while resting on whatever is below it. If your panels are all flush together like mine, getting under the panel itself to remove it might be difficult, so you might need to think of some ideas of pull areas or some sort of putty knife type of thing that can get under the panel and pry it off without damage. All of my panels are glued/nailed to the wall, but it would have been nice to be able to remove them. I could probably pry them off and do some putty work to fix the drywall but it would be a very difficult task! Also, if you use a second set of panels, try to think up front where you will store them! Even the two little masking panels are kind of annoying to lean against my screen. I could store them behind the last row of seats but it would have been nice if I had some way to tuck them away when not in use.

I also thought many times (After) to use panels for some cool secret stuff, like hiding equipment, or a safe, or even media shelving underneath. If you have any unused space behind your walls, it would be a cool opportunity to make a secret space behind a panel somewhere. There have been many times I wish I did something like that in my theater.
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post #105 of 1714 Old 12-03-2013, 11:31 PM
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Me tooo...I want a seed of that money tree, only one!!biggrin.gif

Subscribed as well!! I don't want to miss a thing!!
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post #106 of 1714 Old 12-04-2013, 06:08 AM
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Me tooo...I want a seed of that money tree, only one!!biggrin.gif

Subscribed as well!! I don't want to miss a thing!!

You could have planted a money tree two years ago with bitcoins (Under $1 then) and sold them now (Over $1,000) and you would have your equivalent of a money from nothing tree
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post #107 of 1714 Old 12-06-2013, 09:38 AM - Thread Starter
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Yeah I still have never calibrated my projector. It looks pretty good color wise but not knowing how to do it bugs me. I was going to get a lumagen for that too + the autocal but I never pulled the trigger.

The panels we made involved a lot of ripping and gluing by big. Fortunately he knows how to do it so he could help you with that if you are using him and we've already done testing on how rigid different materials are.

If you are wanting to be able to swap panels, you will probably want to look at things like those Snap-Studs people are putting into theirs, or even try some rare-earth magnets. They don't need the strength to have it free-float on the wall, but only enough to keep it hugging the wall while resting on whatever is below it. If your panels are all flush together like mine, getting under the panel itself to remove it might be difficult, so you might need to think of some ideas of pull areas or some sort of putty knife type of thing that can get under the panel and pry it off without damage. All of my panels are glued/nailed to the wall, but it would have been nice to be able to remove them. I could probably pry them off and do some putty work to fix the drywall but it would be a very difficult task! Also, if you use a second set of panels, try to think up front where you will store them! Even the two little masking panels are kind of annoying to lean against my screen. I could store them behind the last row of seats but it would have been nice if I had some way to tuck them away when not in use.

I also thought many times (After) to use panels for some cool secret stuff, like hiding equipment, or a safe, or even media shelving underneath. If you have any unused space behind your walls, it would be a cool opportunity to make a secret space behind a panel somewhere. There have been many times I wish I did something like that in my theater.

Ah, I didn't think about that. I recall how slick your panel-covered door looks.  I could definitely fit something behind some panels and just make the room wider in certain spots (invisible from inside).  perhaps I'll do this for my equipment, and just have the pedestals in the "lobby" for my amplifiers. ah, the possibilities! Or I could use that for alternate-color panel storage!

 

I took a look at the magnets--they're a little expensive for the amount I'd need, but ultimately worth it. I'll definitely be going that route, as I love the idea of just pulling the panels off easily when I need to do so--especially when swapping panels.

 

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Me tooo...I want a seed of that money tree, only one!!biggrin.gif

Subscribed as well!! I don't want to miss a thing!!

Welcome Al--I'd love a money tree.  They have money trees in Saudi Arabia, but over there it's pronounced "Oil Well!" lol.

 

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You could have planted a money tree two years ago with bitcoins (Under $1 then) and sold them now (Over $1,000) and you would have your equivalent of a money from nothing tree

Man, my buddy Darkstar757 is into these!  i've meant to get the skinny on bitcoin for a while, but never followed up!

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post #108 of 1714 Old 12-06-2013, 12:53 PM
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Ah, I didn't think about that. I recall how slick your panel-covered door looks.  I could definitely fit something behind some panels and just make the room wider in certain spots (invisible from inside).  perhaps I'll do this for my equipment, and just have the pedestals in the "lobby" for my amplifiers. ah, the possibilities! Or I could use that for alternate-color panel storage!

I took a look at the magnets--they're a little expensive for the amount I'd need, but ultimately worth it. I'll definitely be going that route, as I love the idea of just pulling the panels off easily when I need to do so--especially when swapping panels.

Welcome Al--I'd love a money tree.  They have money trees in Saudi Arabia, but over there it's pronounced "Oil Well!" lol.

Man, my buddy Darkstar757 is into these!  i've meant to get the skinny on bitcoin for a while, but never followed up!

If you do the magnets, I think there are many people who would like to see how that turns out. Many people talked about it, but I don't know of many who actually used them.

Well, if you already invested in those Bitcoins you could have made a killing. My friends tried to get me into it when it was around $20-30 ea. Too much of it was just too risky. Today China announced it's banning its financial institutions from trading in them. It's labeled a "Currency" but it doesn't meet the definition of it, which would be that it is backed by a government. That really is its major problem from being accepted. Who knows where we'll go in the future! Too bad, we could have all been rich in the span of a year!
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post #109 of 1714 Old 12-09-2013, 01:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by damelon View Post


If you do the magnets, I think there are many people who would like to see how that turns out. Many people talked about it, but I don't know of many who actually used them.

Well, if you already invested in those Bitcoins you could have made a killing. My friends tried to get me into it when it was around $20-30 ea. Too much of it was just too risky. Today China announced it's banning its financial institutions from trading in them. It's labeled a "Currency" but it doesn't meet the definition of it, which would be that it is backed by a government. That really is its major problem from being accepted. Who knows where we'll go in the future! Too bad, we could have all been rich in the span of a year!

 

I'll be sure to build a few prototype panels.  I'll probably test them during the build elsewhere in the basement to see how the magnets hold up over time.  The last thing I want is to spend $1.5 on magnets for all my panels, just to have them start falling off after a few months or a few years.

 

The rear of the theater will house a sump pit/pump--are there any guidelines for "proofing" the theater against an overflow, or am I screwed in such an event? I'll be covering the access door on the theater side and will instead include a door on the storage-room side of the sump pit. i'm just a little worried about worst-case scenarios.

 

I'm still trying to figure out how to get wires into the room without providing a way for sound to dance out and into the house.  I'm 90% I'm going to soundproof the equipment room/lobby, but I'd hate for the family to hear Optimus Primal whack the heck out of the Dinobots (I'm calling it from now!) in Transformers: Age of Extinction, all because of holes for speaker wire.

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post #110 of 1714 Old 12-09-2013, 01:59 PM
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Beast. I am working on a theater with a sump in theater that will be buried in a riser. I will document and share here later. all the pipes head up inside the wall. We will create a moat of sorts with the riser framing and stick a water alarm down under as an early alert.

Wires are simple. you drill a hole run the wire through the hole leaving a little slack on the backside, caulk and you are good to go. If it is a wall that you also have rear access you put wad of putty pad for good measure.

I also run conduits, seal them tight with flexible acoustical caulk, then run the wires. after all the wires are in place I stuff the remainder of the inside of the conduit with tight pack insulation.

You can also create a backer box for wiring. drill holes, run wire, caulk. Then add an old work low voltage box (backless) put on a nice decorator face plate and bring the wires in though the plate.

I would do Velcro before magnets.
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post #111 of 1714 Old 12-09-2013, 05:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Beast. I am working on a theater with a sump in theater that will be buried in a riser. I will document and share here later. all the pipes head up inside the wall. We will create a moat of sorts with the riser framing and stick a water alarm down under as an early alert.

Wires are simple. you drill a hole run the wire through the hole leaving a little slack on the backside, caulk and you are good to go. If it is a wall that you also have rear access you put wad of putty pad for good measure.

I also run conduits, seal them tight with flexible acoustical caulk, then run the wires. after all the wires are in place I stuff the remainder of the inside of the conduit with tight pack insulation.

You can also create a backer box for wiring. drill holes, run wire, caulk. Then add an old work low voltage box (backless) put on a nice decorator face plate and bring the wires in though the plate.

I would do Velcro before magnets.

 

Thanks for the advice BIG! I really look forward to seeing how that full solution turns out. It might give me some ideas.  I do like the idea of conduit--would I need to find a way to fasten them against the wall of the conduit so I can stuff the insulation inside the center of the conduit?  Or should the cables be pulled through the center-most "space" in the conduit at the exit, surrounded on all sides by insulation?  

 

Velcro?  Why, pray tell? 

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Just run the wire through the conduit and let it fall where may. Stuff the insulation where there is open space left.

If you like magnets you should use them.
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post #113 of 1714 Old 12-09-2013, 05:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Beast. I am working on a theater with a sump in theater that will be buried in a riser. I will document and share here later. all the pipes head up inside the wall. We will create a moat of sorts with the riser framing and stick a water alarm down under as an early alert.

Wires are simple. you drill a hole run the wire through the hole leaving a little slack on the backside, caulk and you are good to go. If it is a wall that you also have rear access you put wad of putty pad for good measure.

I also run conduits, seal them tight with flexible acoustical caulk, then run the wires. after all the wires are in place I stuff the remainder of the inside of the conduit with tight pack insulation.

You can also create a backer box for wiring. drill holes, run wire, caulk. Then add an old work low voltage box (backless) put on a nice decorator face plate and bring the wires in though the plate.

I would do Velcro before magnets.

Anxious to see this. I am incorporating one into a screen wall and will have to get a little creative as well.
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post #114 of 1714 Old 12-09-2013, 06:51 PM
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The Beast Unleashed lol...should place slash marks all over the theater and the door! Now that would be awesome!

Any updates on the theater? How you liking you Casablanca?

-Kevin

No subwoofer I've heard has been able to produce the bass I've experienced in the Corps!

Must..stop...buying...every bluray release...
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post #115 of 1714 Old 12-20-2013, 05:34 AM - Thread Starter
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The Beast Unleashed lol...should place slash marks all over the theater and the door! Now that would be awesome!

Any updates on the theater? How you liking you Casablanca?

-Kevin

lol--I could, perhaps, have an artist paint well-placed slash marks, with a beast's face visible through the marks.  But then, I would have to pay the artist to paint himself some money to pay for the beast painting, becasue after this build, I won't be able to buy so much as a safety pin. lol.   Well, I exxagerate, of course, but it would be cool.

 

Hmmm--now, you've got me thinking...

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post #116 of 1714 Old 12-20-2013, 05:45 AM - Thread Starter
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Guys, I did a preminilary walk-through of the house last Sunday.  OMG the theater space is calling my name.  As I explained a while back on my other thread, when we originally started building the house, we originally paid to have the basement finished because I didn't think soundproofing would be a fiscal reality; however, after reading the "total cost" posts in other build threads, I thought to myself "I could actually swing that"....Now, the issue was that a finished basement had already been paid for.  So, I had to lobby for a modification by the OWNER of the building company, and sign a document saying that even though I paid for the finished basement, I would not be getting the finished basement due my own desires and not due to the company's neglect of its agreement (this took forever to get approved).  So.....walking through the basement space was a special experience--but painful to the Mrs. who looks at it like money thrown away.......

 

so this theater no longer should be great.....IT MUST BE FREAKING AWESOME ENOUGH TO CONVINCE THE WIFE THAT SOUNDPROOFING WAS WORTH THE SUNK COST OF THE BASEMENT WE PAID FOR. 

 

The pressure is on.

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post #117 of 1714 Old 12-20-2013, 12:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Planning question here--Is the performance delta between the staggered studs and room-within-a-room techniques worth ripping the studs down if they're already up?  Strangely, I can't remember if studs were up when I visited the house (I was too busy looking at dimensions and planning the theater in my head), but I know that if they plan to put studs up, there's nothing I can do about it.  I just want very effective soundproofing and will be doing triple-layer DD/GG between the joists.

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post #118 of 1714 Old 12-20-2013, 12:47 PM - Thread Starter
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Just run the wire through the conduit and let it fall where may. Stuff the insulation where there is open space left.

If you like magnets you should use them.

If BIG likes velcro, then i like velcro too. lol....it works really great at NYGF's place, and I'd imagine it's less expensive than the magnets.  I guess I'll let someone else be a pioneer with the magnets! lol.

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post #119 of 1714 Old 12-21-2013, 11:50 AM
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Next time you take a look@your new house take pictures so you won't have to go off memory it helps when you are coming up with different ideas of things to do
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post #120 of 1714 Old 12-24-2013, 05:58 AM - Thread Starter
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Next time you take a look@your new house take pictures so you won't have to go off memory it helps when you are coming up with different ideas of things to do

Will do--we're headed back out there after the Holidays. We took pictures of the exterior--I wish we had taken pictures of the interior.

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