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post #1171 of 1974 Old 07-22-2014, 08:26 AM
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And MikeDuke.. be happy if you never saw MI2.. It was very "Over-Woo'd" The Kremlin scene in Ghost Protocol is an awesome scene though. I showed it to Snickers when he came to see my theater the first time and he almost jumped out of his seat!
That's what I figured. Woo has a style but it can old pretty quick. That entire Kremiln scene is fantastic but on my system, the part where the hole appears in the floor is surprising good. Plus all the various gun shots have a nice impact I think.

I am just trying to imagine what the it will be like in Matt's room. Probably insane, but in a good way. Just like Craig's room is incredible and can cause a spontaneous "WTF, that is just insane" during different parts of movies.

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post #1172 of 1974 Old 07-22-2014, 08:35 AM
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Is the bank robbery shoutout scene from Heat any good in a good home theater? I always imagined that would be a good one.

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post #1173 of 1974 Old 07-22-2014, 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by ClemsonJeeper View Post
Is the bank robbery shoutout scene from Heat any good in a good home theater? I always imagined that would be a good one.
That scene is incredible as far as film and intensity go, but it never really translated to a good demo. Lots of bang bang but no real surround or bass elements in it.
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post #1174 of 1974 Old 07-22-2014, 09:18 AM
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That scene is incredible as far as film and intensity go, but it never really translated to a good demo. Lots of bang bang but no real surround or bass elements in it.
It's just loud midrange gun fire (constant!) but not good spacial elements and the bottom is not good. You are right. I loved that scene and always wanted it to be a demo but when you really play it - it's not up to the level of other stuff.

You can't really find a good demo on movies that old anyways, the more modern ones do have a leg up.

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post #1175 of 1974 Old 07-22-2014, 10:06 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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That scene is incredible as far as film and intensity go, but it never really translated to a good demo. Lots of bang bang but no real surround or bass elements in it.
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It's just loud midrange gun fire (constant!) but not good spacial elements and the bottom is not good. You are right. I loved that scene and always wanted it to be a demo but when you really play it - it's not up to the level of other stuff.

You can't really find a good demo on movies that old anyways, the more modern ones do have a leg up.
Send fifteen seasoned AVS members to a mixing stage [after adequate training] to remaster old action movies (and completely re-record scenes with weaponry). Not to say existing mixers need help--many of them give us what we love. But for the old movies, they're very limited with source content and the studios will never pay for re-recording sessions for most of the old ones. Old movies would never be the same...ever!
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post #1176 of 1974 Old 07-22-2014, 10:53 AM
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Matt, You comments always make me think it would be fun to hang out with you.

Depends though... some remixes and remasters suck. Look at Jurassic Park! I have both transfers on my HTPC in full MKV and I much prefer the original, even though the new one has additional artifical bass added to the bottom. The original is more authentic, and I actually like the film grain! The new one is so cleaned up that lines look soft.

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post #1177 of 1974 Old 07-22-2014, 11:39 AM
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I also bought Heat and I agree that the shoot out wasn't as great as I had hoped. The Ronin shoot out is a little better I think but the gun shots from those movies are nothing like gun shots from newer films. As far as Jurrasic Park goes, the BR I have is pretty good. On my TV it looks very nice and given that's its a 1993 film, the sound isn't bad either. But again, the bass can't compare with the newer films.

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post #1178 of 1974 Old 07-22-2014, 11:41 AM
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Master and Commander cannon shots ! On Matt's system I think you'll duck for cover when he's done.

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post #1179 of 1974 Old 07-22-2014, 11:45 AM
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Master and Commander cannon shots ! On Matt's system I think you'll duck for cover when he's done.
I duck and cover in my room . I have also heard that scene in an untreated room with dual SubMerives some years ago and it was crazy . In Matt's room to be it will either leave you in a pool of your own drool, or you will run screaming from the room .
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post #1180 of 1974 Old 07-22-2014, 12:27 PM
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Master and Commander cannon shots ! On Matt's system I think you'll duck for cover when he's done.
I really wish they made more films in that book series, even if the movie they made was a mashup of several story arcs. It was a good cast, and very well made. Yes, I too love the cannon shots!
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post #1181 of 1974 Old 07-22-2014, 12:44 PM - Thread Starter
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Matt, You comments always make me think it would be fun to hang out with you.

Depends though... some remixes and remasters suck. Look at Jurassic Park! I have both transfers on my HTPC in full MKV and I much prefer the original, even though the new one has additional artifical bass added to the bottom. The original is more authentic, and I actually like the film grain! The new one is so cleaned up that lines look soft.
Ah, 'tis true. I think the remastered versions are best enjoyed visually in 3D. viewed flat-out, there is indeed an element of softness to the video. If you're ever in the DC area, we've got to link up.

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I also bought Heat and I agree that the shoot out wasn't as great as I had hoped. The Ronin shoot out is a little better I think but the gun shots from those movies are nothing like gun shots from newer films. As far as Jurrasic Park goes, the BR I have is pretty good. On my TV it looks very nice and given that's its a 1993 film, the sound isn't bad either. But again, the bass can't compare with the newer films.
Heat is one of thos emovies that you need to suspend your love of A/V, and take yourself back to a time where you watched movies just for the content. It's hard to do, but can really bring satisfaction from a story perspective. Also, are you a gamer, perchance? I tell ya--I'll take a game soundtrack in DD over a Blu Ray with DTS-HDMA any day. Games are so dynamic and really flex a systems muscle with bass and other frequencies!

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Master and Commander cannon shots ! On Matt's system I think you'll duck for cover when he's done.
Heh heh--with two 24" subs and six custom Seaton Submersives with dual 15" drivers, I think I might actually be in danger to shattering an ear-drum. I think I just found my first demo! heh heh---everything from the cannon shots to the wood shattering and the footsteps....that demo scene is perfect for audio. video, not so much.....but that's why there's Skyfall. heh heh.

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I duck and cover in my room . I have also heard that scene in an untreated room with dual SubMerives some years ago and it was crazy . In Matt's room to be it will either leave you in a pool of your own drool, or you will run screaming from the room .
The Crowsons and dual submersives made me JUMP in my last theater...now, with Atmos overhead, I won't be able to duck or jump. I'll just have to run out of the room and cry for wifey! Man, now I have the itch to hear it in Craig's room....still the best room I've ever heard.

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I really wish they made more films in that book series, even if the movie they made was a mashup of several story arcs. It was a good cast, and very well made. Yes, I too love the cannon shots!
I read somewhere that the movie was supposed to be part of a trilogy based on the series. I love that movie, even without the audio excellence. Maybe we'll see Jack Aubrey return down the line, when the studios feel there's enough interest. I love period movies like that, and the authenticity seems pretty spot-on (to me, anyway; although I readily admit that I'm no expert). I know the cannon shots really showed the difference between the Axiom subs and your new Seaton Submersives!
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post #1182 of 1974 Old 07-22-2014, 12:55 PM
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Master and Commander was supposed to be a series but I think the studios felt that it did not make enough and it there would be little interest. I still consider it an outstanding movie and I would have loved to seen the whole series be brought to the big screen. Obviously you want to do the demo with a DVD version and a BR.

As far as Heat goes, it is a great character filled drama that also happens to be a Crime story. A really great film all around.
And do agree that Craig has reached the top of the HT food chain. At least in my opinion from the theaters I have heard.

To your other question Matt, I am really not a big gamer. I have friends who are but I just never got into it.

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post #1183 of 1974 Old 07-22-2014, 12:56 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm really leaning toward a curved screen--more perceived light-output and less light reflected to side walls. Trying to figure out if I want to build the walls to continue the curve of the screen beyond the screen border. Any thoughts or suggestions? I'm definitely doing with an a-lens due to the fact that I need to maximize light-output for 3D (which I will always love).
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post #1184 of 1974 Old 07-22-2014, 01:06 PM
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Would a curved screen change the overall screen size you would be able to fit in your space? I never really spent time with a curved screen so I really don't know what the advantages are. Maybe Big has some input. It looks like he has done a number of theaters. I would think though that would narrow the sweet spot for viewing wouldn't it? If I am in the last seat in the row, would I be able to see what's going on in the corner that is curved away from me? If that makes sense. Would you have to make your seats closer together so everyone could see the entire picture?

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post #1185 of 1974 Old 07-22-2014, 04:17 PM
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I did a curved 12 ft wide screen at curve frenzy . It doesn't really come out too much on the sides and we just built the front wall flat behind it, black velvet of course. The front of the room is pretty much a black hole so anything you do with the wall gets lost in the shadows. Soffit with rope light is another story.


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post #1186 of 1974 Old 07-22-2014, 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by BrolicBeast View Post
I'm really leaning toward a curved screen--more perceived light-output and less light reflected to side walls. Trying to figure out if I want to build the walls to continue the curve of the screen beyond the screen border. Any thoughts or suggestions? I'm definitely doing with an a-lens due to the fact that I need to maximize light-output for 3D (which I will always love).
That's what I am doing, but I only have about 18" on each side, so it's not going to be a big visual feature. I am doing it to get a more polished look without the screen edges visibly pulled away from the wall when the lights are on. With the lights off, you'd never see it.

The chord height (also called frame rise) of the arch is just under 10" for a 12' width of screen if it has a 50' radius. It's closer to 13" with a 40' radius. The best way to think about frame rise with a curved screen is if the frame was sitting face down on the floor and you measure from the floor to the highest point of the arch at the midpoint of the frame.
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post #1187 of 1974 Old 07-22-2014, 09:59 PM
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I don't remember Vic's screen coming out 10 inches on each side. my memory was about 6 inches.

I just put a 600 inch radius and 144 wide screen into two different calculators and got a rise of 4.3 inches. Certainly not 10 inches.

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post #1188 of 1974 Old 07-23-2014, 05:29 AM
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I don't remember Vic's screen coming out 10 inches on each side. my memory was about 6 inches.

I just put a 600 inch radius and 144 wide screen into two different calculators and got a rise of 4.3 inches. Certainly not 10 inches.
I'm having trouble uploading the engineering drawing for my 12' wide (approx.) Stewart Cine-V curved screen for some reason. I'll try again later. Given the same size screen and radius, the only difference in how much the screen sticks out would be frame thickness.
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post #1189 of 1974 Old 07-23-2014, 05:34 AM
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I guess I somehow envisioned a more extreme curve. But in that picture that is posted, it looks like everyone would have a nice angle regardless of where they sat. Like I said, I have never seen one so I can't say what the advantage might be.

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post #1190 of 1974 Old 07-23-2014, 06:54 AM
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When Matt was putting in the DW with GG between the studs I thought I heard him say something to the effect of "removing the screws after it dries and put up next layer". I meant to ask about that and forgot. I'm not sure what reminded me but I have a couple questions:

Isn't green glue only an acoustical product without any significant adhesion properties?

I was under the assumption (which could be wrong) that Green Glue never dries, which is a big part of how it operates. Years from now it's still there between the sheets and still wet and still doing that thing it does. True?

On a related side and something I've not considered, What is the proper technique for burying the screw heads into the drywall? You would not want the heads sticking up higher than the first layer surface right? If so that diminishes what the GG is doing between the layers I'd think, correct ? Is it as simple as circling back and burring them before the next layer or just using a DW countersink bit and driver up front?

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post #1191 of 1974 Old 07-23-2014, 07:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Mfusick View Post
When Matt was putting in the DW with GG between the studs I thought I heard him say something to the effect of "removing the screws after it dries and put up next layer". I meant to ask about that and forgot. I'm not sure what reminded me but I have a couple questions:
I don't remember removing any screws but then again I only did 2 layers of DW
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post #1192 of 1974 Old 07-23-2014, 07:29 AM
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i did the between the joist trick and you do not remove the screws
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post #1193 of 1974 Old 07-23-2014, 08:19 AM - Thread Starter
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I took the screws out of the first layer on the sidewall because those particular screw-heads sat atop the drywall and didn't sink into the drywall the way other screws do. For the joists, the screws most definitely stay in!
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post #1194 of 1974 Old 07-23-2014, 09:41 AM
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After 30 days GG is an adhesive, you will destroy the drywall before the two layers come apart, I've tried.
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post #1195 of 1974 Old 07-23-2014, 10:28 AM
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That's what I thought.

But it's important to drive the screws in a method that they do not protrude beyond the face of the first layer or make contact with the second right? That's the space for the GG. Is there a special trick to driving the screws or do you just drive them in enough not to stick up, similar to if you were going to DW compound over the screw hole ? I noticed some of his were sticking up still, but ideally you want them buried right?

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post #1196 of 1974 Old 07-23-2014, 10:38 AM
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Edit: I just saw Jeff and Matt comments, my browser was open for a couple hours refreshed before I replied ( I was actually working lol )

I think I get it. Screws stay in. Drive them well enough to not stick up. Use GG. The end.

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post #1197 of 1974 Old 07-24-2014, 06:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
I don't remember Vic's screen coming out 10 inches on each side. my memory was about 6 inches.

I just put a 600 inch radius and 144 wide screen into two different calculators and got a rise of 4.3 inches. Certainly not 10 inches.
You're talking image rise, which doesn't account for the frame. Frame rise gives you the total depth a screen flares off the wall.

Here are the engineering drawings for my curved Stewart Cine-V. 2.35:1 aspect ratio, 50' radius curve. 141" image width x 60" image height. As you can see, image rise is just over 4" and frame rise is almost 10".






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post #1198 of 1974 Old 07-24-2014, 11:02 AM
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Tim,

Just out of curiosity how many bookmarks does your browser have ?

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post #1199 of 1974 Old 07-24-2014, 11:18 AM
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Tim,

Just out of curiosity how many bookmarks does your browser have ?
Curious question....but only a handful of bookmarks. Why?

If your question is in reference to the drawings above and the frame rise / image rise differences, that's simply driven by all the CAD and rendering work I'm having done in the background. I bought my Cine-V second-hand and, based on the serial number, Stewart was kind enough to forward me the original CADs and a CAD DWG file for scale reference / placement in the renderings so the object didn't have to be modeled from scratch. So I've been knee-deep in the same considerations as Beast is going through right now with the exception of curved vs. flat because I'm already committed to curved for a handful of reasons.

In the end, I'm going to be building a curved screen wall to get a slightly more tailored look for when the lights are on and to jive with some of the things I'm doing on either side of the screen with the finish carpentry.
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post #1200 of 1974 Old 07-24-2014, 01:48 PM
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Curious question....but only a handful of bookmarks. Why?
Haha. Just because no matter what the topic it seems like you always have a ton of good info or links or pictures at your fingertips. I imagine some crazy internet browser with 20,000 subcategories all itemized out. You seem like you have invested research into a lot of areas, and you are quick to post informative things. I guess I am a just impressed at the consistency and scope you do it.
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