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673K views 7K replies 343 participants last post by  Ladeback 
#1 · (Edited)
2024 Update Underway: Wisdom Audio, MadVR, Stewart Directors Choice, and much more. Stay tuned!


THE BEAST, UNLEASHED: COMPLETED PHOTOS (March 2021):

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On the cost of the room, here's the big kicker: This is the MSRP value of the room, which I'd say is in line with the high performance room I originally envisioned (but didn't appropriately budget for). If I didn't have great relationships with so many awesome dealers, it's what I would have had to pay...but thankfully, I paid significantly less:







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#2,699 ·
yessssss, it's getting there!

Yes, well done.

I tried and tried to come up with a reply, but not one did Matt's post justice.
Fear not, Ser Pauldred. House Redstripe needn't do justice, for your house does a good work in the realm. If any house shall speak against you, let us align ourselves and deliver such a mighty blow, that the bath of fury and sinew that did inspire "The Rains of Castamere" will be a fairy tale worthy of yawning children dozing in the lap of a wet nurse.

The North Remembers.
 
#2,700 ·
Starting to look like a room!
 
#2,703 ·
An interesting conversation that occurred this afternoon:

Me: Hey, guess what?
Mrs. Brolic: What's up?
Me: Next week, we pick the colors to paint the equipment room and theater ceiling.
Mrs. Brolic: Are you going to paint it yourself?
Me: Yup!
Mrs. Brolic: Well....it's gonna be messed up
Me: .................. -_-
Mrs. Brolic: You know me babe! I'm an honest wife...remember the corners in your last theater?
Me: .................. -_- -_-
 
#2,705 ·
lol, dude! I tried that with the last theater.....wasn't my cup of tea. Hose leaked, lost half a can of paint. never again! Paint rollers for life!

BTW--my wife is a beast with cutting corners with a paint brush. She helped me paint the corners in the last theater back when we were dating. But there are a lot of corners in this theater. I may just get the drywall guys to paint it--they're already doing the priming as part of the drywall finishing package.
 
#2,706 ·
I trained the misses to do those details too. Sounds like hiring out the painting would be a good thing...or spend the time to tape before you start painting the edges. Just make sure to pull the tape right after you paint, don't want the paint drying on the tape.
 
#2,708 ·
Based upon BB's love affair with Legacy speakers, I can see this being his reaction!!

 
#2,711 ·
I wish I could put my equipment in another room but I can't. It looks like an like an airplane with all my lights up front. I may get light dims and see how they work. But I would imagine a totally dark and quite room would really be great in pulling you into the movie more.
 
#2,712 ·
Light dims work! A totally dark room does make a difference.
 
#2,714 ·
Small cut-outs of electrical tape will cure it!

I used to do this as even in the rear of the room, equipment LEDs wold cast viewable shadows on my screen.
 
#2,715 ·
Not only the lights but putting the equipment in another room helps reduce the overall heat in the theater.....especially with amps. I think I dropped the temp in my room at least 10 degrees by moving my equipment out.
 
#2,716 · (Edited)
I did the same BUT, then had to add a huge bathroom exhaust fan to the equipment room to keep it from becoming an oven --- but it worked!!

The only lights now in my theater are the projector, anamorphic lens sled and the light switches that are controlled by my Control4 system. Even those lights (uncovered) allow me to "see" if my hand is next to my face. Block them off and --- dead black.

I am also considering painting the ceiling black as well - and possibly putting black carpet under the screen out about 4 feet. Black velvet is much blacker than black carpet or black paint and may end up making thin panels of black velvet to put on the ceiling.

For more details on getting your theater black, see MAKING A BLACK THEATER
 
#2,718 ·
Awesome!! Now that is a majorly impressive bomb shelter build!!!

Did you decide on an SSP? Which one!!?
 
#2,719 ·
Gracias Sr. Nope, no SSP decision yet, although I may consider going with an RS20i if I can find one at juuuuuust the right price. If i cant, then the most likely contender is the Marantz 8802 until CEDIA 2015 gives me something to pursue.
 
#2,724 ·
Been messing with color schemes. Been thinkging about going for a darker tone, as the previous model (in post 1) is too....reflective. Any thoughts on the burgundy and gray color scheme?

 
#2,726 ·
And since I never like making things easy, I vote for your latest burgundy and gray color scheme, which is one of my favorite color combinations. :) But you can't go wrong with either.
 
#2,730 ·
In an interesting development, I may end up going 2:35 after all. Why? Well, the 16:9 screen will be snug IF I maintain the prescribed height for a 2:35 image. When I say tight, I mean it's an exact measurement to the top of the ceiling. This raises the question...if the screen frame must go all the way up to the ceiling, how do I mount the screen? If I can't solve this, then I'm going 2:35.
 
#2,731 ·
I figured, the %100 black out on all the lights and read out on my monster. A %100 on my Butt Kicker amp. My amps will get the 50-80% ones and some lights on my Raid will get the %50-80 ones. As long as it does something, I will be happy. That way I can focus more on the movie. That's why people like you, who can put the equipment in another room, or even Craig who has his equipment in the room, but not in a sight line are lucky.
 
#2,733 ·
It would be the same 144" wide. Maybe wider if I used an Anamorphic Lens. If I did go 2:35, I'd really need a 4k Lumagen to be released so I can use NLS on 16:9 content, making it 2:35 like I did in the last theater (videos here and here). I don't do black bars. lol.
 
#2,737 ·
I know the 16:9 screen height, including frame, is 87.7" high. And I have 93" of ceiling height after clips, channel, and triple drywall. So with the top screen border touching the ceiling to maintain rear-row visibility of a 2:35 image when that AR is engaged, I'll have about 5" below the screen. I could build a 4" platform using 2x4 (really 3.5"), and then stack 1.5" worth of ply or osb atop the frame, just to give the screen something to sit on...I could then use your standoff bracket design. Please, do share the TMcGoogle Sketchup if you get a chance, as I'm pretty much there. This will influence the design of the baffle wall as well, since now it's being designed to attach the screen directly to the top of the baffle wall.
 
#2,735 ·
Now, if you got a 2:35 screen, how would that handle shifting aspect rations. I know of only a few. TRON;Legacy, but that only shifts once near the end of the movie. TDKR may shift during the film but I really haven't paid attention. But Interstellar has a bunch of shifts in the film that I noticed. It did not bother me but it did go back and forth. I think though maybe the last 40 min did not do that. Is something you are thinking about? I know many people with projectors hate that. But on my TV, it's not that bad. I was just wondering if you care about that and if you are some how going to try and handle movies like that, or will it be an "OH well, I hope it's not a lot of films that do that" kind of thing.
P.S same question if you do stick with a 16:9 screen.
 
#2,739 ·
Check out the second video I posted in Post 2733 above. I have The Dark Knight in there, covering exactly what i used (and may use in the future) the Lumagen for during variable aspect ratio movies. The scene is the switch from the Joker taking to Aron Eckhart in the hospital room to Bruce Wayne speeding in a lamborghini. That'll be how I deal with those types of movies.

For 16:9 content, I won't use any masking for variable aspect ratio movies. I'll let the image fill the screen and swap between ratios at will. Any other time, I'll have the 2:35 masking on, so it will have the appearance of a 2:35 screen.

My Stewart screen frame goes to the celling and the frame has 1" on either side. My screen is not a snapper but uses hooks and bungee cords along the frame to place. The frame is in 3 pieces that bolt together. Scope is nice. Unless you get a projector with zoom memories, you can use an anamorphic lens and then side masking to eliminate black bars (my frame type - Stewart Vista-scope). I use an Isco lens. Fun stuff!
I absolutely hate side masking!!! Well, what I really hate is how much image is lost by watching 16:9 on a 2:35 screen. That's why I used a Lumagen for years to ensure even 16:9 content filled the 2:35 screen. They have a ridiculously amazing formula that makes the content look natural. Hopefully I won't have to do that though. My last theater had a 10ft wide Stewart ST130 screen (an absolutely outstanding performer). This time around, I'm going with Seymour with horizontal masking to 2:35.
 
#2,736 ·
My Stewart screen frame goes to the celling and the frame has 1" on either side. My screen is not a snapper but uses hooks and bungee cords along the frame to place. The frame is in 3 pieces that bolt together. Scope is nice. Unless you get a projector with zoom memories, you can use an anamorphic lens and then side masking to eliminate black bars (my frame type - Stewart Vista-scope). I use an Isco lens. Fun stuff!
 
#2,740 · (Edited)
So you first choice is a 16x9 screen right? But that size has you concerned about if you can fit it or not in the space you have. So now you are thinking about a 2:35 screen. My question is this. It seems that no matter which way you go, 16x9 or 2:35, the other will be compromised in some way. Let's say you stick with 16x9. It seems like you are doing a lot of stuff with the remote to make it look like you want it to look. Does that mean you have to memorize what movies are what aspect ratio? Or will you just see it when you start the movie and say "yep, I can tell I need to switch to 2.35 on the lumagen." And same for the reverse. Let's say you get a 2:35 screen and you want 16x9 movies to look good. Do you have to memorize which films are 16x9 and say "yep, I need to do the switch in the lumagen." Is there no automatic sensor that can do this?
 
#2,742 ·
So you first choice is a 16x9 screen right? But that size has you concerned about if you can fit it or not in the space you have. So now you are thinking about a 2:35 screen. My question is this. It seems that no matter which way you go, 16x9 or 2:35, the other will be compromised in some way. Let's say you stick with 16x9. It seems like you are doing a lot of stuff with the remote to make it look like you want it to look. Does that mean you have to memorize what movies are what aspect ratio? Or will you just see it when you start the movie and say "yep, I can tell I need to switch to 2.35 on the lumagen. And same for the reverse. Let's say you get a 2:35 screen and you want 16x9 screens to look good. Do you have to memorize which films are 16x9 and say "yep, I need to do the switch in the lumagen. Is there no automatic sensor that can do this?
After making that video, I did some more experimenting and discovered a setting in the Lumagen that automatically does the switch!!! :)

Now, I had settings for different inputs (Lumagen's virtual input is ridiculously amazing). For TV and Gaming, I setup the automatic switching so I didn't need to hit any buttons. For movies, I kept the automatic switching on, BUT--kept one button to turn it off when I wanted to watch 2:35 in full screen mode since NLS is not needed for native 2:35 content. I wish I shot a video after I got the system perfected. If I get another lumagen, I'll make sure I do.
 
#2,743 ·
Interesting. Because if ever I got a projector some day, I would want the simplest way to make everything the same size. Any reason you are not doing an anamoprphic lens? Doesn't that do the same thing? Is it strictly a price thing or does the lumagen work differently.
 
#2,750 ·
same here...2.35 is SUPPOSED to be the larger of the 2 formats as far as screen size..

Every commercial theater uses CIH screens (at least everyone I have every been to)...i would say of the movies I own (around 350) probably at least 250 are 2.35 or greater

I am a 2.35 advocate-r

:)
 
#2,751 ·
It's also easy to mask from the left and right. You can even get up and stick on those magnets... for sports and 16x9 like the superbowl event.

I honestly would just watch with the bars on the sides because I am lazy I think. Automated masking is sweet- but it costs too much for me.
 
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