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post #1 of 1360 Old 11-10-2013, 01:29 PM - Thread Starter
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The time has come to make my once deferred dream a reality! My wife and I are building our house here in lovely Maryland, and I have carved out a 28x16 space in the Rec Room for a dedicated theater. My outgoing theater is actually a converted living room, and the time has come to truly design and develop a truly dedicated, soundproofed space (unleashed!). I've owned a lot of gear in the last few years and have sold most of it, managing to narrow things down to items that truly matter.

Layout for The Beast, Unleashed - Dolby Atmos Theater:







Bass Model of Room:



Equipment (owned and planned) is as follows:

DISPLAY
OWNED: Sony VPL-VW600ES 4K Projector w/ seven 3D Glasses

SCREEN
PLANNED: Falcon Screens/Stewart Ultramatte 150/Seymour Centerstage XD [undecided]: 12-foot-wide 2:35:1 Acoustically Transparent Screen

SPEAKERS
OWNED: LEFT, CENTER, RIGHT: Triad Cinema Plus Platinum
OWNED: SURROUND SIDES AND REAR: InWall Triad Gold LCR
OWNED: TACTILE TRANSDUCERS:

AMPLIFICATION BY CHANNEL
OWNED: LEFT: Emotiva XPR-1 Monoblock (1750 wpc)
PLANNED: CENTER: Emotiva XPR-1 Monoblock (1750 wpc)
OWNED: RIGHT: Emotiva XPR-1 Monoblock
PLANNED: SURROUNDS: Emotiva XPR-5 (600 wpc)
OWNED: TACTILE TRANSDUCER: Behringer iNuke1000DSP (1000 bridged mode)

SOURCES
OWNED: Home Theater PC powered by Jriver Media Center
OWNED: Oppo BDP-105D
OWNED: Sonos Digital Music System

I have been inspired by so many theaters in this forum, and look forward to getting this theater completed. Taking a page from the professional world, I'll be completing this theater in Build Units (which are, essentially, development sprints separated by small periods of down time). The sprints are separated into three post-design phases:

1) Framing and Wiring
2) Drywall and Customizing (Columns, Treatments, Stage, Riser, etc.)
3) Finalizing (Carpet, GoM, Paint, Equipment Installation, etc.)

The timeline is six weeks from the Serenity Mat installation (which I consider the kickoff of the project), with about two weeks of additional float for material order delays, etc.

I will be using room-within-a-room technique and will have some VERY qualified assistance with the build. Soundproofing is mandatory, as my wife gets migraines and I will not allow my hobby to exacerbate the pain. I'm considering triple drywall w/ green glue to maximize results, as well as the plethora of methods that work together to completely isolate sound.

I truly look forward to this new journey!

Below is the plan, as of June 2014:


Equipment In This Theater:


-Matt
arttu, SXRDISBEST and RayWK like this.

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post #2 of 1360 Old 11-10-2013, 01:30 PM - Thread Starter
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Concrete has been poured!  Here's the portion of the house where my theater will reside!!

02.14.2014: It's starting to become real.
 
Front Screen Wall (18ft across)

 
 
Front Screen Wall with Right Wall

 
Rear Wall of the theater

 
Another shot of the rear wall

 
The left wall will be built around the location of the orange pole on the floor

 
27x10 storage room directly behind the theater (This is going to be soundproofed as well and will be a "command center."  It will house the projector as well)

 
This is the separate listening room in the basement.  It will also be soundproofed and will house a two-channel music system.

 
Then, up went the drywall at the builders insistence (and against my hopes and dreams)

 
THE DOWN CAME THE DRYWALL, DEMO-NINJA STYLE!

 
Then, the bathroom (left of screen) and mechanicals (HVAC/Water Heater to right of screen) needed to be moved...

 
So...I moved 'em


To be continued...

Last edited by BrolicBeast; 06-23-2014 at 04:44 PM.
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post #3 of 1360 Old 11-10-2013, 01:30 PM - Thread Starter
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Reserved for "Completed" pictures.

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post #4 of 1360 Old 11-10-2013, 01:32 PM - Thread Starter
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Reserved

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post #5 of 1360 Old 11-10-2013, 03:40 PM
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subbed. How high is the ceiling?

It ain't easy being green.
My System
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post #6 of 1360 Old 11-10-2013, 04:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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subbed. How high is the ceiling?

Hey Mike, the ceiling is 8 feet tall.  I won't be going too crazy with riser height--just enough to give the rear row line of sight to the screen.

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post #7 of 1360 Old 11-10-2013, 04:31 PM
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Subbed! Looks like you have one heck of a nice equipment list. Good luck with the new home build!
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post #8 of 1360 Old 11-10-2013, 04:33 PM
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Concrete has been poured!  Here's the portion of the house where my theater will reside!!


I remember the day the foundation went in very exciting things will start to move fast now until they get to frame of the house up then it seems feel like is slows down ....
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post #9 of 1360 Old 11-10-2013, 05:37 PM - Thread Starter
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Subbed! Looks like you have one heck of a nice equipment list. Good luck with the new home build!

 

Appreciate it! i've spent the last three years or so owning a variety of gear, but this is the set that I feel will get me 100% satisfaction.

 

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I remember the day the foundation went in very exciting things will start to move fast now until they get to frame of the house up then it seems feel like is slows down ....

Very exciting indeed!!!  I won't mind if it slows down once framing comes.....that gives me an opportunity to maybe sneak in some ethernet runs. heh heh.

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post #10 of 1360 Old 11-10-2013, 07:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Some basic rough draft shots of what I think i want the theater to look like.  Open to suggestions, of course.  Bear with the "scruffiness" of the images...I just started using Sketchup yesterday and am still getting acclimated to its capabilities.  What a tool! 

 

 

 

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post #11 of 1360 Old 11-10-2013, 07:32 PM
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Nice equipment! Do you still have your Legacy speakers? Congrats on the new home!

MY THEATER......The Thompson Theater 11.9 channels

"Is not love not unlike the unlikely not it is unlikened to?"
- Leon Phelps
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post #12 of 1360 Old 11-10-2013, 07:43 PM - Thread Starter
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Nice equipment! Do you still have your Legacy speakers?

 

Gracias!  Naw, I sold the Focus SE's with the intention to replace them with Aeris models, but then I discovered the benefits of AT screens, which led me to research theater speakers, at which point I came across the Triad Platinums.  I then remembered a very impressive demo of the Triad Platinums that I experienced earlier this year, and I proceeded to pursue a set. I plan to utilize an extra 14x10 room elsewhere in the basement as a dedicated music room....eventually.  I'd still like to get those Aeris in there, as I am indeed an audiophile and love my two-channel music almost as much as I love home theater (the ratio fluctuates--last year this time, it was 60/40 in favor of music).

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post #13 of 1360 Old 11-10-2013, 09:14 PM
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looks like its going to be pretty cool setup; aren't the triads 500w max though, wont nearly 2Kw fry them?

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post #14 of 1360 Old 11-10-2013, 09:29 PM - Thread Starter
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looks like its going to be pretty cool setup; aren't the triads 500w max though, wont nearly 2Kw fry them?

Greetings!  The Triad Plats (and most speakers) can handle way more than their recommended handling, but only for brief peaks.  If I were to run them constantly at 1750wpc, the Plats would fry in about 15 seconds, I'm sure!  My last pair of speakers (Legacy Focus SE's) were also rated for 500w, but I easily hit around 1300w at peaks (i.e. gunshots, crashes, etc.) when playing at reference in my current, smaller room. This room is larger, so I'll likely be pulling everything the monoblocks have to offer for those peaks!

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post #15 of 1360 Old 11-11-2013, 05:48 AM - Thread Starter
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Guys, will I need Serenity Mat under the carpet if the floor is poured concrete? I I'm using this holiday to establish my soundproofing budget. 

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post #16 of 1360 Old 11-11-2013, 06:18 AM
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Only if you want to isolate the entire theater and not just under the stage and/or riser. Total judgment call. Personally, I'd say save the $$$ and just do it underneath your stage and maybe underneath your riser if budget allows, not the entire theater.

If you end up doing the entire theater you will have to glue down the Serenity Mat using a 3/16" v-notch trowel and a special adhesive followed by 5/8" or 3/4" tongue and groove plywood on top, adhered to the Serenity Mat with the same special adhesive. It's a lot of work and raises your floor height by 1" to 1 1/4" overall. If you just use the mat under the stage and riser, weight alone will keep it in position (i.e. no gluing) and you can generally avoid any flooring height differences when entering the room.
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post #17 of 1360 Old 11-11-2013, 06:33 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

Only if you want to isolate the entire theater and not just under the stage and/or riser. Total judgment call. Personally, I'd say save the $$$ and just do it underneath your stage and maybe underneath your riser if budget allows, not the entire theater.

If you end up doing the entire theater you will have to glue down the Serenity Mat using a 3/16" v-notch trowel and a special adhesive followed by 5/8" or 3/4" tongue and groove plywood on top, adhered to the Serenity Mat with the same special adhesive. It's a lot of work and raises your floor height by 1" to 1 1/4" overall. If you just use the mat under the stage and riser, weight alone will keep it in position (i.e. no gluing) and you can generally avoid any flooring height differences when entering the room.

 

Dude, you just saved me a wealth of time and effort!  The last thing I want to do is raise the floor height by any amount, since the ceilings in the basement are the standard 8' high.  With the riser, every inch counts. *Pause* (New Yorkers will get that:)).

Thank you for this--it's going right at the top of my Best Practices list.

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post #18 of 1360 Old 11-11-2013, 09:32 AM - Thread Starter
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When building the floating joists between the existing joists, do they--through some feat of engineering that I don't comprehend-- cross-brace the tops of the studs to keep them plumb?  I'm trying to figure out how the studs are kept sturdy with the room-within-a-room technique.  I've never framed a room before, but I did do renovation construction in my late teens right before college (I don't remember much).  I remember needing to make studs plumb...I remember using a mallet to do it.....can't remember much else. 

 

I just don't want my walls to slant and fall.

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post #19 of 1360 Old 11-11-2013, 10:10 AM
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Subscribed! Looking forward to watching your theater come together!! Quite the impressive list of equipment so far. Question though: everyone always says the center channel is the most important in a home theater. So shouldn't your center also get an XPR1?

smile.gif Always easy to spend someone else's money.
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post #20 of 1360 Old 11-11-2013, 11:01 AM - Thread Starter
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Subscribed! Looking forward to watching your theater come together!! Quite the impressive list of equipment so far. Question though: everyone always says the center channel is the most important in a home theater. So shouldn't your center also get an XPR1?

smile.gif Always easy to spend someone else's money.

Thanks Nuz1!.....Planting the seeds of upgradeitis is very dangerous for me..I'm very succeptible. lol.....I may indeed go the third XPR-1 route if I can still swing it after the Sony 600ES.  An alternative is, of course, getting the JVC RS-57 (I recently sold my RS-56, which had the best image I've ever seen) and reappropriating the balance of funds from the projector line to the amplification lines, and a few other key areas. 

 

the seeds.....the seeds......

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post #21 of 1360 Old 11-11-2013, 11:06 AM
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You can always get the amp later. Keep your plans cause they are amazing! By the way, where is your rack going to be and are you planning to put your amps in it? You might need two racks.

MY THEATER......The Thompson Theater 11.9 channels

"Is not love not unlike the unlikely not it is unlikened to?"
- Leon Phelps
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post #22 of 1360 Old 11-11-2013, 11:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrolicBeast View Post

When building the floating joists between the existing joists, do they--through some feat of engineering that I don't comprehend-- cross-brace the tops of the studs to keep them plumb?  I'm trying to figure out how the studs are kept sturdy with the room-within-a-room technique.  I've never framed a room before, but I did do renovation construction in my late teens right before college (I don't remember much).  I remember needing to make studs plumb...I remember using a mallet to do it.....can't remember much else. 

I just don't want my walls to slant and fall.

If you refer to Ted White's construction thread here: http://ht-old.homestead.com/gallery.html you'll see how he accomplished the task using some standard metal tie-downs available at the big box stores to end up with this:



Looking at Ted's pictures, it seems he used a mixture of LVLs and traditional joists. If this were my theater, I'd opt for TJI (engineered joists) because they are dead straight, much stronger and have a much wider base to make them less "tippy". And you are not limited to a 16' length to span your room.

When installing, I'd also put a dollop of construction adhesive on the underside of the floating joist and send a screw or two up through the top plate into the bottom of the joist to keep things stable.
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post #23 of 1360 Old 11-11-2013, 11:40 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by TMcG View Post


If you refer to Ted White's construction thread here: http://ht-old.homestead.com/gallery.html you'll see how he accomplished the task using some standard metal tie-downs available at the big box stores to end up with this:



Looking at Ted's pictures, it seems he used a mixture of LVLs and traditional joists. If this were my theater, I'd opt for TJI (engineered joists) because they are dead straight, much stronger and have a much wider base to make them less "tippy". And you are not limited to a 16' length to span your room.

When installing, I'd also put a dollop of construction adhesive on the underside of the floating joist and send a screw or two up through the top plate into the bottom of the joist to keep things stable.

 

Thank you very much!  I am getting ready to acquaint myself closely with Ted White's process right now!  I think I will be going with TJI, as I'd rather not have to worry about crooked joists.  Is there a way to get engineered studs as well, to avoid warping??

 

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You can always get the amp later. Keep your plans cause they are amazing! By the way, where is your rack going to be and are you planning to put your amps in it? You might need two racks.

Ah, the racks.  Well, I'm trying to design a *different* type of a/v rack...not actually a rack at all!  I don't want the standard fare in-wall rack.  I'd like to put each major piece of equipment on a pedestal in the "lobby" area right outside of the theater in ascending height-order as "show pieces." I plan to upgrade to a Steiger Dynamics HTPC, primarily for aesthetics, as its form factor very closely matches that of the Theta Casablance and Emotiva XPR amps (I'd guess abour 4U's).  Since I use an HTPC as my primary source, access to the rack is something I don't need unless I'm trouble-shooting.  I backup every blu ray I own, so accessing them is just a few remote control presses away--as opposed to having to manually load a disc (for which the externally located "pedestal rack" would be tedious.  Just cooked up the below model to put an image to the thoughts scrambling around in my mind.  The door is the entrance to the theater:

 

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post #24 of 1360 Old 11-11-2013, 11:46 AM
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You can always get the amp later. Keep your plans cause they are amazing! By the way, where is your rack going to be and are you planning to put your amps in it? You might need two racks.

Given the spec's of the XPR5, I have to agree. At 600w per channel, I wouldn't think it would be lacking. But with a few cable swaps back and forth, you'll be able to test and know for sure. And just as a precaution, having a little extra room in the rack for expansion is probably a wise idea. cool.gif
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post #25 of 1360 Old 11-11-2013, 11:59 AM
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Is there a way to get engineered studs as well, to avoid warping??

Timberstrand is the only brand I am aware of that you should be able to get locally. I'd also use 3" wood screws, no nails. Here's a direct link to their framing lumber: http://www.woodbywy.com/products/trus-joist/timberstrand-lsl-wall-framing/

And their sill plate: http://www.woodbywy.com/products/trus-joist/timberstrand-lsl-treated-sill-plates/

And their headers: http://www.woodbywy.com/products/trus-joist/timberstrand-lsl-headers/

The stuff is pricey vs. traditional stud costs, but man is it nice. I used it once before and it's truly a step above. Nothing sonically, just absolutely dead-on straight and incredibly strong.
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post #26 of 1360 Old 11-11-2013, 12:41 PM
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Is that a metal stud? They don't warp.
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post #27 of 1360 Old 11-11-2013, 12:53 PM
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Is that a metal stud? They don't warp.

No. A combination of Aspen and Yellow Poplar in an exterior-grade adhesive. Here's a two-page pdf on all the FAQs: http://www.washingtonhardwoods.com/userfiles/library/Q%20and%20A.pdf
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post #28 of 1360 Old 11-11-2013, 03:22 PM
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Thank you very much!  I am getting ready to acquaint myself closely with Ted White's process right now!  I think I will be going with TJI, as I'd rather not have to worry about crooked joists.  Is there a way to get engineered studs as well, to avoid warping??

Ah, the racks.  Well, I'm trying to design a *different* type of a/v rack...not actually a rack at all!  I don't want the standard fare in-wall rack.  I'd like to put each major piece of equipment on a pedestal in the "lobby" area right outside of the theater in ascending height-order as "show pieces." I plan to upgrade to a Steiger Dynamics HTPC, primarily for aesthetics, as its form factor very closely matches that of the Theta Casablance and Emotiva XPR amps (I'd guess abour 4U's).  Since I use an HTPC as my primary source, access to the rack is something I don't need unless I'm trouble-shooting.  I backup every blu ray I own, so accessing them is just a few remote control presses away--as opposed to having to manually load a disc (for which the externally located "pedestal rack" would be tedious.  Just cooked up the below model to put an image to the thoughts scrambling around in my mind.  The door is the entrance to the theater:




I like that idea! That will look sick! So if you have your major pieces on the pedestal, what about the rest of the equipment?

MY THEATER......The Thompson Theater 11.9 channels

"Is not love not unlike the unlikely not it is unlikened to?"
- Leon Phelps
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post #29 of 1360 Old 11-11-2013, 04:36 PM - Thread Starter
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I like that idea! That will look sick! So if you have your major pieces on the pedestal, what about the rest of the equipment?

I hope it turns out like that in real life! The rest of the equipment will likely be kept inside the pedestals, out of sight, and will be controlled either via RS-232 or RF-IR blaster.

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post #30 of 1360 Old 11-11-2013, 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by BrolicBeast View Post



That will look great! I was thinking, you could take a plumb bob to line up recessed ceiling lights directly above each amp and get a pin spot trim kit like this http://www.lightinguniverse.com/recessed-lighting-trims/con-tech-lighting-ctr2005-p-4in-minirecessed-pin-spot-recessed-lighting-trim-white_240547.html?af=1525&cse=1525&gclid=CLCZ1Z2B3roCFQXf4AodNGAAAA&gclsrc=ds to focus the downlight directly on the amp for a really cool lighting effect.

Excited to see all the other ideas you have knockin' around inside your head!
TMcG is offline  
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