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post #1 of 39 Old 11-21-2013, 10:40 PM - Thread Starter
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Hey All,

So I got wife approval to build a home theater in the basement of our new home.  I am very much still in the planning stages, but have already started to rip down the old paneling and have studs showing.  The room is roughly 22x12.  The front half of the room is a bit narrower, about 10 feet.  The ceiling in the front is only 6'9'' due to the HVAC main ducts.  The back half of the room is 7'3''.  The room has no windows at all.  Planned on two tones of darker gray for the walls, with trim about 1/3 up from the floor and black for the ceiling.  I want to ideally have two rows of seats for a total of 7-8.  The first row would most likely be about 13-14 feet from the screen, the second row about 2 feet from the back of the room.  Ideally I would like to have between 100'' to 120'' screen.  While I would love to spend 10k-15k on the whole thing, I more realistically have around 5k for everything.  I am fairly competent as a DIY and have a few friends who are as well and willing to help.  Here are my questions, again any and all advice is appreciated!

 

Can I build a quality screen myself? If so, what material should I use?  Have read about blackout material, but don't know what is current.

 

Can I realistically get a projector that will compete in quality of an HDTV?  Which would you recommend?

 

I currently own two floorstanding speakers, Definitive 7004's.  Can I use these for the time, or do I need to get new ones?  I went to a local theater store and they made the B&W CT 700 speakers seem like a great deal.

 

I currently own a Denon AVR 891 reciever.  Is this a good enough reciever or should I upgrade to a seperate amp and processor?  I looked at a few, but they just all seem very expensive!!  Any recommendations?

 

I found some wires from monoprice that I plan on picking up.  12 gauge wire.  Have heard mostly all wires are the same for speakers.  What about the sub wire or HDMI?  The A/V equipment is going to be in the back of the room and the sub(s) will be in the front corner(s).

 

I am sure I have forgotten something else either components, wires, or designs.  

 

Let me know if you need more details about the room or what I am looking for.

 

Thanks again for any and all advice.  Really looking forward to a movie room.  Been doing research for a while and finally starting to work to get the dream come true!!!

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post #2 of 39 Old 11-22-2013, 04:33 AM
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Welcome!

13-14 ft for the first row is too far, I always shoot for 11 1/2 to 12 from screen to the front of the riser.

Think about acoustically transparent screens and a false front wall, fabric for acoustically transparent screens is available from Seymour or Falcon. Chew up some of the space you are wasting with your seating distance with an acoustically transparent false front wall. Build a stage. With this strategy you can use your existing speakers, just add a third for the center channel.

You haven't mentioned soundproofing or acoustical treatments

Panasonic AE8000 is a good first projector. If you watch a lot of bluray movies think about a 2.35:1 format screen. Up the food chain are the JVC projectors with e-shift and 4K resolution, then there is the New Sony true 4K projector with media server and download service of true 4K content.

Run a conduit from the equipment location to the front stage area for misc wire requiements, unless you know if you are going with active or passive subs I can't make a recommendation. That is the beauty of a conduit, you pull what you need later. Monoprice has HDMI cables. Run a conduit to the projector location and put an outlet there as well, be sure to add blocking for the projector mount.

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post #3 of 39 Old 11-22-2013, 06:00 AM
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I'd add Epson to Big's projector list.

A SeymourAV DIY XD screen is excellent value and could free up budget for elsewhere.

Actually your Definitive 7004 are a poor choice if you acoustically treat the room. Their dipole
design doesn't work with a properly treated dedicated home theater front wall. I would recommend
horns or compression driver front speakers if you want to be able to play reference level audio, and still
retain high frequency information at the second row's throw distance.

You also might want to think about zoning lighting in the theater.

You should post a drawing or photos of the space, showing all obstacles, and it would narrow down
advice to what applies to your space.
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post #4 of 39 Old 11-22-2013, 06:13 AM
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You will want to closely watch the projector's throw distance for a given screen size.
With the room's limited height, and a riser eating up some more height, you don't want
the projector ending up over the riser's aisle space.

A shallow height riser and an island riser on top (which is essentially seating plus foot room) might
be worth consideration, or staggered seating. A side view sightline drawing will quickly reveal issues.
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post #5 of 39 Old 11-22-2013, 11:07 AM - Thread Starter
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Thank you all for the fast response on advice.  When I get home today I will get exact measurements and post for further reviews.

 

Sound Proofing - I am going to be using clips and hat channels for all four walls and the ceiling.  I will attach 1/2 or 3/4 inch plywood first and then add a layer of drywall with green glue between.  For the HVAC, I am cutting out the original metal duct and replacing with a flex duct.  I have to keep it in the original location, but am going to drop it down against the back wall with various "S" bends to help reduce as much noise as possible.  I am also installing a booster fan to make sure airflow gets through all the bends.  I have no plans on creating a return right now as the room is in the basement.

 

Screen - I read up on the DIY screen from Seymour and it looks very manageable for me.  I will look to create a false front wall so I can have my center speaker behind the screen in the middle.  Thinking about having the right and left speaker behind as well, but need to look at a good placement for them compared to having them more in the corners of the room. (very new to all this and researching on acoustics and placement)  

 

Projector - Love the suggestion of the Panasonic AE8000U.  Found on online at gosale.com for $1995!  Tedd, which epson model would you recommend that would compare with image quality?

 

Lighting - Bigmouth, I am assuming you are speaking about seperate areas of the room controlled individually, which I am planning on doing.  I will give more details on lighting details when I get home and have exact specs of the room and can show where I am looking to place the lights.  Thought of 

 

Speakers - Tedd, you are saying the 7004 will not work due to the dipole.  Any speakers you would recommend that doesn't break the bank?  And would the speakers work with the Denon AVR891 or which amp and processor would you suggest?  

I am looking at getting a separate sub(s) if I cannot use the 7004's.  Any good suggestions?  Looking at getting powered sub(s) to avoid the additional purchase of amps.  

 

Sources - Most video/movies will be in blu-ray format.  Will also use for football games and possibly x-box gaming.  Hadn't thought about going with 2.35:1 but might not be a bad idea.  

 

Should be able to get room design, measurements and more details posted in the next 10 hours.

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post #6 of 39 Old 11-22-2013, 12:21 PM
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I'm also going to cheer you on to build a screen. One more thing to mention, the Seymour AV has step by step instructions for building your own frame, which I just got done doing a month or so ago. I'm fairly handy, but I'd never done anything like it before. It was a snap, and the Seymour screen material is great!

Between the instructions on Seymour's website and the resources available here, you should have no issue at all building a screen. I'm also currently looking into modifying my screen similar to @deewan's homebrew masking system - which he step-by-steps here: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1090889/diy-104-1-85-screen-with-integrated-masking-system

I love my iPhone, but it will never replace my turntable.

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post #7 of 39 Old 11-22-2013, 12:22 PM
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I would also check with Mike at AVS to see what his b-stock status is for JVC. They have been know to have JVC's in the $2k range.

My front row is about 10' from a 10' wide screen and is perfect for me. My room is similar size to yours at 13x23 and I had a miserly $8000 budget to go from cement to theater.

You can build an excellent speaker at a fraction of the retail price. Audio can be a wholey encompassing project by itself so you can always concentrate on the room and get some ideas for down the road for speakers subs etc - as your time and budget frees up.

I built 4pi LCR's, and I believe Big did as well, but there are lots of good diy options now for every budget. DIY subs are an even better bang for the buck, and few things impact a HT like a powerful sub, or four...tongue.gif

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post #8 of 39 Old 11-22-2013, 05:19 PM
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Def Tech speakers use the front wall as a reflective surface. Dedicated home theaters usually have the front wall treated
to absorb.

You could leverage DIY and build three 4pi speakers and a pair of subs. The cabinets would be a simple black finish since they
would be behind the screen and unseen. A used stereo amp could drive the subs. Hard to beat the performance per dollar.
Commercially, I'd look at Klipsch for their high sensitivity and horns. The AVR should be perfectly fine paired with high sensitivity
speakers and crossed over at 80 Hz.

I'd check out Epson's 5020-6030 models. They'll be more but you get a brighter picture and better black levels. The B model
JVC (or a good used one) is a solid suggestion. My last two pjs (JVCs) have been used.
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post #9 of 39 Old 11-22-2013, 08:36 PM - Thread Starter
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Basement4.jpg 220k .jpg file Basement3.jpg 222k .jpg file Basement1.jpg 231k .jpg file Basement2.jpg 229k .jpg file

 

BasementLayout.jpg 62k .jpg file  

 

I have attached 4 photos of the basement as it currently looks as well as a picture of the basic layout of what I was thinking of doing.  Hopefully it makes sense.  The layout includes all measurements of the area.  Liked Big's idea of a false wall and thought of putting R/C/L speakers behind the screen, all at same height, mid height of center of the screen.  I was not sure if I should put the sub(s) in the false wall as well, or in the main room.  I was going to place the screen 1' from the ceiling.

 

I am not really sure where to have the projector.  Have read that it is better to have it closer for a brighter, crisper image, but worried about having it over the main seating area because of heat and noise  Also read that the lens should be at the height of the top of the screen.  Any advice regarding projector placement and how low to hang it?

 

Tedd, if I understand correctly (still new to a lot of this even with reading up on a lot of stuff), you suggest building a small riser for the second row, but place the actual seats on a higher platform?  Definitely sounds like it can help with my low ceilings.

 

Lastly, I considered having the screen on the opposite side of the room, but thought this would help with ceiling height for people walking and stepping up to riser for second row.  Also, if I flip the room, could only get the center speaker behind the screen because of the water shut off that is in that corner.

 

Again, thank you all for the advice and suggestions.  Really helping a lot and really want to make sure I get this done right (already bragging to friends and family that I am building it).

 

Thanks!!!

Attached Images
File Type: jpg Basement2.jpg (229.4 KB, 16 views)
File Type: jpg Basement1.jpg (231.0 KB, 17 views)
File Type: jpg Basement3.jpg (221.5 KB, 14 views)
File Type: jpg Basement4.jpg (220.0 KB, 26 views)
File Type: jpg BasementLayout.jpg (62.1 KB, 26 views)
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post #10 of 39 Old 11-23-2013, 08:00 AM
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I'd suggest allowing more space behind the screen. With the depth of your room I'd use up 3' of it. That will give you plenty of space for speakers and subs up front.

You could get creative with walls and ceiling to make the narrower front stage a feature instead of a bug.

Where's the entrance? Can you put the equipment and kegger out the theater in some sort of lobby? Best to keep the noise and heat out of your theater space.



And WELCOME TO THE MADNESS!

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post #11 of 39 Old 11-23-2013, 09:14 AM - Thread Starter
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The room where I have the audio equipment has the water main shut off.  So it is already walled off to enclose it and it has a door.  Was just going to use the extra space to house the equipment.  It should have plenty of breathing room for the heat.  Could definitely put the keg outside of the room, just thought it would be a good use of the space as that odd angle would be tough for much else.  

 

Looks like you would suggest subs behind the screen.  Should the rest of the wall be simple drywall, or some other material to allow the sound to freely pass through?  Original plan was to have the speakers behind the screen so the audio could go right through without interruption.  

 

Can't fully make out what you typed below step ceiling (which is definitely possible, but have a low ceiling already).  Like the side view of the seating.  Definitely planning on getting something like that done.  Projector placement seems out of the way.  Have heard it is ideal not to tilt the projector if at all possible.  Thoughts on this?

 

Thanks for drawings and advice.  Working on installing the flex duct right now to help with sound.

 

Will post updates as more work continues!!!

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post #12 of 39 Old 11-23-2013, 01:44 PM
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The whole front wall would be acoustically transparent cloth. Look at the builds in Big's signature line for details. Sub placement is just a WAG. Definitely need to try multiple locations to find out what's best. Three or four small subs are easier to integrate and get good response everywhere that one monster sub.

I had in mind stepping the ceiling without lowering it much, if at all. I was thinking the ceiling steps could incorporate a cove with rope lighting, again check out the spaces that BIGmouthinDC has done.

You should not tilt the projector - avoid electronic keystone adjustments at all costs. LCD and LCoS machines usually have ample optical shift to allow you to mount the projector above the screen. You'll need to lay out everything to be sure the projector will hit the screen, not be a head impact hazard, and set up your seating so everyone can see the screen.

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post #13 of 39 Old 11-23-2013, 01:48 PM
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Can you sketch up a floor plan for the entire space? Show stairs, existing walls, plumbing that can't move, columns, etc.

Do you have a plan for the whole basement? I wouldn't want to walk through a storage area full of crap to get to the theater.

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post #14 of 39 Old 11-23-2013, 04:24 PM
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Subscribed to this thread. My room is also a comparable size 13x22 approx.
Just starting out the planning process and seems im getting overwhelmed by the planning. (What I want) I know but (what I need) to make it happen seems like a big chore.
Ill be posting a fourm soon once I get more drawings together!

Cant wait to compare and see what you do with your room! Good luck!
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post #15 of 39 Old 11-23-2013, 06:07 PM
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+1 to what petew is proposing. I wouldn't further narrow the front of the room though...
(With 6'9" of height up front, it'll be a soffit over the screen or a stage, but likely not both.)

I'd even be tempted to deepen the front AT space further, to push the seating further back for better side
surround speaker placement. (My AT space is 59' deep, to hide where the HVAC sheet metal pulls an S curve.
The soffit over the AT screen hides this, and the depth lets me fit two large subs into a small space. I have a
6" tall sand filled stage behind the AT wall, but no visible stage in front.)

The subs or their ports should not be allowed to blow on the screen. Rotate the sub/s 90 degrees if need be.
The speakers should be 6" off the backside of the AT fabric or they will timbre shift. The effect is gone at 6".

I'd eliminate sconces up front, and treat that whole narrow front space blacked out. I'd go with the three screen
pot lights up there solely. And have them on their own lighting zone.

You have it correct for a low riser the entire width of the back, and extending to the back wall. Then a further seating plus foot room
riser on top of that. If you fill the lower riser with insulation, and cut some vents in the back corners, your room now has a full range
bass absorber.

Your biggest challenge with your room height, is to balance a large screen, with the second row being able to see the bottom
of the screen, and not have the projector fall between the first and second row headroom. You will find many combinations that don't work
versus few that do work well.

AV rack, kegerator, and bar would be accommodated outside the theater.
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post #16 of 39 Old 11-24-2013, 05:13 PM - Thread Starter
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Here is a drawing of structures that cannot be moved and new location of audio equipment and door shown.

 

 

Three projector locations, haven't decided on one yet.  Not totally decided on sub locations, but do like the idea of having them there.  Thought of maybe having one up front and one in the back, but would love to hear opinions.  Answering one question, do not walk through storage, but part of the rest of the finished basement.  Battery is dying on computer, will post more shortly from iPad

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Anyone have good directions on building DIY speakers? Not sure if up for the challenge or not, but would love to look to see if I think I could. Here is a list of things I will be buying this week, let me know if there is better items to buy, if anything is a bad idea, etc.

Tedd or gocabo, either of you have plans and parts needed to build the 4pi speakers?

Quiet clips, green glue pails and dispenser, acoustical caulk, and possibly sound dampening panels for walls from sound isolation company
1.5 inch PVC pipes as conduit for speaker wires as well as 1" for hdmi for projector. Getting these from Home Depot
Basic metal conduit for power from Home Depot (code requires)
12 gauge speaker wire for all speakers, subwoofer cable, wall plates for speaker and subwoofer cables (do these significantly reduce sound quality?) from monoprice.
Hat channels from Menards

Any suggestions on different items to buy or other locations to get it?

Future purchases -

screen from seymourAV. Only question on this is if I decide to build the whole false wall out of AT screen, does it come in black? Build the wall normally and just replace the drywall with AT screen material.

Projector - looking at Panasonic ae8000u, but still considering

Seating - totally undecided on where or what to buy

Lighting above screen - considering getting led lights similar to recessed lighting, except has a low profile that can fit in a junction box. Help with sound proofing. Won't use when screen is on, so think it would work well.

Sure there are more things to buy. Will post prior to purchasing to get thoughts and opinions

Any good ideas to help with sound proofing against low frequencies? Using the clips, double drywall with green glue, and insulation. Vents have been replaced with flex duct and added bends.
If I replaced one layer of drywall with plywood, would that make much of a difference on low frequencies or overall soundproofing?

Petew or Big, either of you have a link for the false wall made out of AT material? Cannot find the reference Petew referred to and would love to see it.

Thanks!!
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post #18 of 39 Old 11-24-2013, 06:23 PM
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You do not want the projector ending up in position 2. Headroom issues with the low ceiling and the seating.
The choice of projector will require careful consideration and the mounting position will be a function of the
screen size and the zoom adjustment.

You could just barely skim the sewage stack and the support post, boxing these into a column, to widen the front
of the room 4-6". (You'll want access to the stack's clean out...)

The purple lines here, are fabric walls, and the surround speakers are all flush. The wall depth here could be
put to work and hide acoustical treatments. So I actually narrowed the room visually in the back half. I've also
kept the seating off the walls, for improved audio and to provide adequate circulation space.

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The wall plates and electrical plates just undermine your isolation efforts unless you
have backer boxes or use putty pads. And you need to watch your sconces. I built backer boxes
for my spot lights, double wall MDF with GG. Silicone caulk the hole where the electrical line
penetrates the box.

I'd simply clone BigmouthinDC's AT wall. His build thread is on his signature line.
I think Jeff went with 4pi speakers. And I believe you can buy the cabinets
as a flat pack too. There is a thread or two in the DIY speakers and subs subforum.

If you build a drywall-less wall, you have overbuilt your AT screen wall.

I believe you need to watch the gauge of those hat channels and I am assuming you'll be
using RISC clips?

The short cut to much of the construction methods would be to use BigmouthinDC's
project shortcuts at the bottom of his posts.
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post #20 of 39 Old 11-24-2013, 06:52 PM - Thread Starter
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Awesome! Thanks for the picture. No acoustic treatment in the front of the room? Just in back? Assuming those black squares are another set of columns. Looks good. Going to have the wall as close to the sewage line as possible. Access to clean out covered by a false vent with plywood backing and insulation to keep as soundproof as possible. Considering building screen 2.35:1 based on Big suggestion, but may opt for building a converter similar to thrill cats post. If I go with 100" wide screen, would cover almost entire wall, so not issue with speakers behind the screen.

Great ideas and awesome pick. Thanks!!

Any thoughts on purchases? Go with those or look for something different?
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post #21 of 39 Old 11-24-2013, 07:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KickinAces View Post

Anyone have good directions on building DIY speakers? Not sure if up for the challenge or not, but would love to look to see if I think I could. Here is a list of things I will be buying this week, let me know if there is better items to buy, if anything is a bad idea, etc.

Tedd or gocabo, either of you have plans and parts needed to build the 4pi speakers?

Quiet clips, green glue pails and dispenser, acoustical caulk, and possibly sound dampening panels for walls from sound isolation company
1.5 inch PVC pipes as conduit for speaker wires as well as 1" for hdmi for projector. Getting these from Home Depot
Basic metal conduit for power from Home Depot (code requires)
12 gauge speaker wire for all speakers, subwoofer cable, wall plates for speaker and subwoofer cables (do these significantly reduce sound quality?) from monoprice.
Hat channels from Menards

Any suggestions on different items to buy or other locations to get it?

Future purchases -

screen from seymourAV. Only question on this is if I decide to build the whole false wall out of AT screen, does it come in black? Build the wall normally and just replace the drywall with AT screen material.

Projector - looking at Panasonic ae8000u, but still considering

Seating - totally undecided on where or what to buy

Lighting above screen - considering getting led lights similar to recessed lighting, except has a low profile that can fit in a junction box. Help with sound proofing. Won't use when screen is on, so think it would work well.

Sure there are more things to buy. Will post prior to purchasing to get thoughts and opinions

Any good ideas to help with sound proofing against low frequencies? Using the clips, double drywall with green glue, and insulation. Vents have been replaced with flex duct and added bends.
If I replaced one layer of drywall with plywood, would that make much of a difference on low frequencies or overall soundproofing?

Petew or Big, either of you have a link for the false wall made out of AT material? Cannot find the reference Petew referred to and would love to see it.

Thanks!!

Wayne Parham makes the plans for his 4pi speakers available for free on his web site, (Pi Speakers) Just ask him and he will email you. He also sells a kit with everything but the box. I have a thread there documenting my speakers http://audioroundtable.com/forum/index.php?t=msg&th=15168&prevloaded=1&&start=0
The DIYsoundgroup.com also has good speakers available in kit form with flat pack cabs, look at the SEOS Tempest 12.
Check with Ted or John at soundproofingcompany.com for Green Glue, Ted was co-developer.
Be sure to get 25 ga hemmed edge channel, 20 is too stiff.
Seymour is Good, Falcon is an alternative that I have worked with and I sit on their advisory board. You use black GOM FR701 or similiar for the black portion of the screen wall, you can also use certain black velvets.
Look at fusion seating from Rtheaters,com, RSH on the forum.
Junction box lights aren't going to cut it. There are other strategies but that is for another post.
Screen wall discussion: http://www.avsforum.com/t/837848/minimalist-approach-to-screen-wall/0_40 several examples linked in my signature, which doesn't show on mobile devices.
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post #22 of 39 Old 11-25-2013, 03:07 PM
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Acoustical treatments up front too. Just don't over deaden the room and
suck the high frequencies out of the room.

The wall will have some give with RISC clips, so take that movement into consideration.

The rear black squares were columns, they could be optional.
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post #23 of 39 Old 11-26-2013, 07:43 AM
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I am not an expert on any of this but I learned a lot reading other builds and asking questions in their builds. I did the DYI Seymour Center Stage XD however I did the frame different then their DYI examples on their site. I warped the screen around the frame like some of the builds here vise stapling it to the back of a frame warped in velvet. I did this due to size of my screen I needed center bracing. I recommend reading all of Big's and others build threads. Everyone will be more than willing to answer questions either here or in their thread. The latter may be preferred as they may not have seen your thread yet. I have a link in my signature for my DYI screen and my build. The Center Stage materiel for my screen with grommets and Bands was a little over $550 with shipping and the materials to build the minimalist wall and screen frame was probably another $100.

I did my screen different than most because I had plenty of space. Even with 126"x65" screen the Panasonic AE-8000 lights it up great and looks amazing in 2D and the 3D is way in your face. Due to your height limitations I would go 2.40:1 if I were you. The Center Stage screen in a word is amazing I made it 2.0:1 so over all it is 126"x65" that gives me a 126"x52" 2.40:1 with 136" diag, a 126"x54" 2.35:1 with 137" diag, a 120"x65" 1.85:1 with 137" diag, (man this size make it like being there) and a 116"x65" 16x9 with 133" diag. So in the way the best of both worlds If I would have done a 2.40:1 screen 126" wide my 16x9 size would have been 92"x52" with 106" diag. If I would have done 16X9 65" tall my 2.40:1 would have been 92"x39" 100" diag.
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post #24 of 39 Old 11-26-2013, 02:43 PM - Thread Starter
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So here is a quick questions for some of you professionals.  Obviously I am new to this whole thing and learning a lot.  My basement has walls that are already built 1'' away from the foundation wall, which I learned means it is already decoupled.  Here are my questions:

1. The wall appears to be attached to the ceiling joist via additional 2x4 (pic to follow when I get home).  Is this still decoupled?

2. One wall shares with the rest of the basement, so would this be decoupled?

3. The other walls I am still building, including the false wall for the screen.  As long as I do not attach them to the foundation walls (concrete) they should be decoupled.

4. I have a plumbing p-trap that drops down a decent distant (very annoying as it is the only spot).  I have a few options as I think about it on how to deal with it.  It is roughly in the middle of the room.  I was thinking about building a soffitt around it and house the projector in it, but don't think it will look to good.

5. I was thinking about sawing away the 2x4 connecting the walls to the ceiling joists.  I was then going to get some 2x4 or 2x6 that can span the width of the room and create a new ceiling below the floor joists above.  I would pack that entire space with insulation to avoid the triple leaf hazard, which I just learned about).  Would this effectively decouple the ceiling?  It is a much cheaper option than using clips and since I already lose the height because of the p-trap pipe, not worried about the lower ceiling.  I would leave 1/4 inch from ceiling joists, DD and GG.  So it would truly be a room w/in a room. 

 

Anyone seeing an issue with this idea?  I am sure I am overlooking something!

 

Another item I am looking to add is the stage.  My plan was to have a single tier stage that was about 6'' high.  Not sure if my wife will like having so much sand in the house, but probably will try to not tell her, lol.  I would have it start to round out into a half circle/oval on the side of the screen.  My question with the stage is if I can contain the sand filled areas to the area behind the screen and fill the stage on the HT side with insulation?  Basically I would build two individual parts and join them together.  

 

Thoughts?  Thanks all!

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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post


Wayne Parham makes the plans for his 4pi speakers available for free on his web site, (Pi Speakers) Just ask him and he will email you. He also sells a kit with everything but the box. I have a thread there documenting my speakers http://audioroundtable.com/forum/index.php?t=msg&th=15168&prevloaded=1&&start=0
The DIYsoundgroup.com also has good speakers available in kit form with flat pack cabs, look at the SEOS Tempest 12.
Check with Ted or John at soundproofingcompany.com for Green Glue, Ted was co-developer.
Be sure to get 25 ga hemmed edge channel, 20 is too stiff.
Seymour is Good, Falcon is an alternative that I have worked with and I sit on their advisory board. You use black GOM FR701 or similiar for the black portion of the screen wall, you can also use certain black velvets.
Look at fusion seating from Rtheaters,com, RSH on the forum.
Junction box lights aren't going to cut it. There are other strategies but that is for another post.
Screen wall discussion: http://www.avsforum.com/t/837848/minimalist-approach-to-screen-wall/0_40 several examples linked in my signature, which doesn't show on mobile devices.

DC, in your opinion, is there a significant difference between the Tempest 12 and the 4pi?  I am not sure I will have the funds/time to build the speakers right away, but would love to if I can.  The 4pi are outside the budget for sure right now, but hoping enough is left for the 12's.  Are the 4pi well above and beyond the 12's for the cost?  Just save up for the 4pi?

 

What type of amp and processor would everyone recommend for either of these speakers?  Keeping in mind that my budget is limited.  Ideally what is 'best', and then a few other suggestions, around $1,500 total for both if that is realistic.  Understand if it is not and will just have to keep saving.

 

In regard to the junction light boxes, what problems would it cause?  Not doubting you at all, just trying to understand (I like learning things!).  The HVAC is going to be right above the screen, so hardly any room to put in boxes and recessed lights.  Only other option would be to extend the room all the way to the back wall, but then someone has to go through the HT to get to the furnace, future bathroom, and other storage.  Might not be a bad thing, but wasn't planning on it.

 

Thanks!

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post #26 of 39 Old 11-26-2013, 03:40 PM
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Another subscriber- have alot of the same issues with narrow space/low ceilings in a brand new house.
GL Aces!

I want MY Cigarettes, MINE Nurse Ratched!!
Screen Pics
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post #27 of 39 Old 11-26-2013, 04:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KickinAces View Post

1. The wall appears to be attached to the ceiling joist via additional 2x4 (pic to follow when I get home).  Is this still decoupled?
No
Quote:
Originally Posted by KickinAces View Post

2. One wall shares with the rest of the basement, so would this be decoupled?
No
Quote:
Originally Posted by KickinAces View Post

3. The other walls I am still building, including the false wall for the screen.  As long as I do not attach them to the foundation walls (concrete) they should be decoupled.
They might be - but you want them to be - let's see some plans. wink.gif Also, false wall should come much later - after drywall at the soonest.
Quote:
Originally Posted by KickinAces View Post

4. I have a plumbing p-trap that drops down a decent distant (very annoying as it is the only spot).  I have a few options as I think about it on how to deal with it.  It is roughly in the middle of the room.  I was thinking about building a soffitt around it and house the projector in it, but don't think it will look to good.
P-traps and PVC are simple, and code may allow other solutions. Let's see some pictures and maybe we can save the headroom.
Quote:
Originally Posted by KickinAces View Post

5. I was thinking about sawing away the 2x4 connecting the walls to the ceiling joists.  I was then going to get some 2x4 or 2x6 that can span the width of the room and create a new ceiling below the floor joists above.  I would pack that entire space with insulation to avoid the triple leaf hazard, which I just learned about).  Would this effectively decouple the ceiling?  It is a much cheaper option than using clips and since I already lose the height because of the p-trap pipe, not worried about the lower ceiling.  I would leave 1/4 inch from ceiling joists, DD and GG.  So it would truly be a room w/in a room. 
YES!
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post #28 of 39 Old 11-26-2013, 06:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Alright, so finally home and able to get some photos to post.  This first one is of the p-trap that drops about 3.5 inches below the ceiling joists!!!

                   

This one is showing the wall that is 1'' away from foundation that I have now realized is nailed to the ceiling joist.  Not decoupled as far as I understand the concept

This one is of the wall that is shared with the rest of the basement.  Do I need to build an additional wall inside this wall?  Really do not want to lose the space, but feel like clips take up almost same amount of space and cost more!

Finally, the biggest challenge I face! The HVAC supply and return runs right above where the screen will be! Floor to metal is 6'10''.  Thinking for this I could run 2x4 or 1x4 across the span of it for support of the drywall.  Any ideas on how to support the DD and GG would be great!

 

So the question of the day.....Do I rip down the current walls that are nailed to the ceiling joists and rebuild them completely decoupled from the ceiling?  The biggest concern I have with this, is stability of the room once built.  The floor is concrete, so not sure if I can nail the bottom runner board to the floor or not, even with a rubber barrier like acousticmat (I think it is called).  If I 'shouldn't' nail the boards to the ceiling joists or concrete floor, how do I ensure the room is stable?  Really don't want it to collapse on me!!!  Will boards across the top be enough to keep it sturdy?  The rough calculation I made for clips added up to like $1,400 which is way more than budgeted for sound proofing

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post #29 of 39 Old 11-26-2013, 07:04 PM
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You should nail the base plates to the concrete. You can use a fastener called a tapcon, or you can use what's known as a ramset. (both are brand names, with generics available) If you go with the ramset, you need the type with a trigger (it uses a percussion cap - like a bullet). All ramset tools use a percussion cap, but you need the heavy load that is not appropriate in the cheaper tools. (here's the link to where I finally came to grips with this in my build - see a page or so back for the lead in)

For the walls, you can probably remove the bits that hold the wall to the ceiling/floor above. The walls will stand fine on their own. Once you get the new ceiling joists in, it's pretty stable. Once you get some drywall or OSB on the walls/ceiling, it's very stable. That's how mine is built. Now that I have 7/16 OSB and two layers of 5/8 drywall, it's at least as sturdy as normal walls/ceilings.
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post #30 of 39 Old 11-26-2013, 07:14 PM - Thread Starter
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The walls that are already up are nailed into the concrete directly.  How big of an issue will that be?  I was thinking of taking a sawzall to the 2x4's that connect the wall to ceiling.  One of the walls I think does not have it and the top beam is connected directly to the joists.  Was considering cutting off the top board, trim off a bit of the studs, and then reattach top beam, but seems like a lot of work and just rebuilding the wall is easier, lol.  Thoughts on the wall that is shared with the rest of the basement?  As long as it is decoupled, should be ok?  Will leak to the rest of basement a bit, but shouldn't be too bad I do not think?  The one hesitation is that it is next to the stairs that lead up to the rest of the house.  Will look at your thread as well and read it all the way through.  Hopefully is start to finish? 

 

I have access to a nail gun that uses 22's (it is my dad's).  I believe he used it when he finished his basement 15 years ago.

 

Thanks!

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