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post #1 of 60 Old 12-06-2013, 07:27 AM - Thread Starter
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I just recently purchased the Panasonic AE 8000. I'm currently looking for a screen in the 92 inch or 100 inch range. I have sloped or slanted ceilings in my room so this hampers me on how big I can go.

My first dilemma is deciding on 16 x 9 or 2.53 screen. I will be watching Blu-rays and playing console games. I'm under the assumption that console games or in 16 x 9 format and most Blu-rays or in the 2.35 format.

My next dilemma is what brand screen to get. I have looked at Canada, elite, and Seymour XD among some others.

I'm including a picture of my set up. After the TV is gone the screen will hang just above the center channel which will move up to the TV stand. The center channel is roughly 14 inches and the TV stand is 18 inches which gives me roughly 32 inches. I plan to possibly do a false wall in the future which might free up space for a bigger screen where the speakers will be in front of the false wall.

I'm currently needing advice on the 16 x 9 or 2.35 screen and a brand of screen from you guys. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
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post #2 of 60 Old 12-06-2013, 07:28 AM - Thread Starter
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Could someone explain this to me: I put in a 92 inch screen with the PJ I have. It comes up in red writing under throw distance "recommended brightness for rooms with ambient lighting". I moved the throw distance back to 13'11" and got a different message in green.


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post #3 of 60 Old 12-06-2013, 07:28 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airscapes View Post

The smaller the screen and closer the projector the brighter the image. An image can be TO bright in a Dark room. In the center of the calculator is a fl ## this is the Footlaberts (light output off the screen) for a dark room a 12-16 fl is recommended to prevent eye strain. I view at over 20fl and like it. To much light is a good thing as the calculator uses the manufactures max light output. You can always use low lamp and there are other ways to reduce light.. just can not make it brighter if your screen is to large to start.

My room when watching at night is very dark. Daytime watching is a just a tad brighter but not much. I have that window in the rear which has blinds on it, but it is a arched window and I have a feeling Ill be covering it up somehow in the future.

The calculator that I was using last night shows 22fl. I got it to there by moving the PJ further back.

Here is what it shows without moving anything and a 92 inch screen: 12 foot PJ, 27fl


Here is when I move the PJ back:
18 foot PJ, 17fL
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post #4 of 60 Old 12-06-2013, 07:28 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airscapes View Post

So what it comes down to is you have more than enough light and that is a good thing. The issue happen when you are trying to light up a screen larger than 120"
and the fl is at 12 or lower. In this case as the lamp ages and losses 20-50% of it's brightness the image would be to dark to enjoy. You are in good shape, put the projector where you want it in the room as long as it can produce the size you want from that location.

ok. question.

If I ever go bigger down the road, something like 110 max, would I be ok mounting the PJ in a spot for a 92-110 screen?
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post #5 of 60 Old 12-06-2013, 07:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airscapes View Post

Change the 92 to 110" on the calculator and if the projector can produce both sizes from the distance you want and the 110" fl is not under 12, sure.

You may want to spend some time in the Dedicated Room Forum as there are many examples of false walls with AT screens in that forum.



106 inch screen and I pushed the mount to 15 foot in the room.





92 screen and same distance as 106




Is there a range in fL I should be at? too bright, too dark?
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post #6 of 60 Old 12-06-2013, 07:33 AM
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It just means that at the closest throw you will get more brightness, which is needed for room with ambient light... and as you move farther back and change the zoom you will lose some brightness. General rule of thumb... minimum zoom for more brightness, maximum zoom for more contrast.

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post #7 of 60 Old 12-06-2013, 07:37 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by walterappleby View Post

It just means that at the closest throw you will get more brightness, which is needed for room with ambient light... and as you move farther back and change the zoom you will lose some brightness. General rule of thumb... minimum zoom for more brightness, maximum zoom for more contrast.

so I will have to use the zoom no matter what?
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post #8 of 60 Old 12-06-2013, 07:44 AM
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If your considering a false wall and maybe doing an AT screen, pay a visit to Seymour for AT screen options.

http://seymourav.com/screens.asp

Only need to buy the screen once.
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post #9 of 60 Old 12-06-2013, 08:45 AM - Thread Starter
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is there a "sweet spot" on distance from PJ to screen?
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post #10 of 60 Old 12-06-2013, 08:55 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oman321 View Post

If your considering a false wall and maybe doing an AT screen, pay a visit to Seymour for AT screen options.

http://seymourav.com/screens.asp

Only need to buy the screen once.

expensive screens. might a tad rich for my blood.
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post #11 of 60 Old 12-06-2013, 09:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nezff View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by oman321 View Post

If your considering a false wall and maybe doing an AT screen, pay a visit to Seymour for AT screen options.

http://seymourav.com/screens.asp

Only need to buy the screen once.

expensive screens. might a tad rich for my blood.

Put some sweat equity and build your own, save $$'s , many threads in the DIY screen section on how to do http://seymourav.com/screensDIY.asp
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post #12 of 60 Old 12-06-2013, 09:54 AM
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Just buy the seymour material and build your own frame.
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post #13 of 60 Old 12-06-2013, 10:22 AM
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Yes you can DIY with the material if you wish, but when you mentioned Carada and Elite up above I figured that it may be in your ball park.

DIY is what a lot of us do and the material for Seymour is excellent for AT.

Good luck hope you work it out.

Nice room BTW.

http://www.avsforum.com/f/110/diy-screen-section

edit: bad grammar, lol in a rush when I typed.
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post #14 of 60 Old 12-06-2013, 10:34 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rfbrang View Post

Just buy the seymour material and build your own frame.

I wouldn't even know where to start or what all I need for a DIY.

Quote:
Originally Posted by oman321 View Post

Yes you can DIY with the material if you wish, but when you mentioned Carada and Elite up above so I figured that it may be in your ball park.

DIY is what a lot of us do for and the material for Seymour is excellent for AT.

Good luck hope you work it out.

Nice room BTW.

http://www.avsforum.com/f/110/diy-screen-section

gotcha. Well the carada and elite screens I was looking at were $600ish and the Seymour I saw on their site was $1000 and that was the cheapest.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mtbdudex View Post

Put some sweat equity and build your own, save $$'s , many threads in the DIY screen section on how to do http://seymourav.com/screensDIY.asp

Ive read some posts in that thread, but haven't seen anything that tells me what I need. I understand I need screen material and a frame. Do you guys build your own frame or buy it?
Does the Seymour stuff come precut? How much do I need to order for a 92-100ish screen?
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post #15 of 60 Old 12-06-2013, 11:17 AM - Thread Starter
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talked to Jon over at Seymour and the material was fairly cheap. Now just have to build a frame.
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post #16 of 60 Old 12-06-2013, 11:37 AM - Thread Starter
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here is the calculator for a Seymour XD screen DIY in 92 inches. 1.2 gain

Im not totally sure where I should mount the PJ. at night watching movies, it is dark, very dark. In the daytime, its is a tad brighter from the window. I plan on covering that up in the future.

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post #17 of 60 Old 12-06-2013, 11:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nezff View Post

so I will have to use the zoom no matter what?

Think of it like this... the projector/lens has a certain range in which it is capable of displaying an image of a given size. You can mount the projector anywhere within that range and adjust the zoom to get the size image you want. All I mean by minimum or maximum zoom is that you have that range to work with to get the desired image size... and as long as you are in that range you are using the zoom to make the image fit. So yes, with that thinking you have to sue the zoom no matter what. But it's not a good or bad thing... it's just how it is.

As for trying to decide whether to adjust for maximum brightness or contrast (min vs max zoom)... only you can decide on your preferences. But I would lean towards more brightness as the lamp will dim with age and if you start with brightness too low, due to too far of a throw distance then you may have to replace lamps more often than you would like or can afford.

If you can, just setup the projector on a table or stand and live with it for a week or so from various locations... you'll learn what you like and hopefully be able to find a permanent location.
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post #18 of 60 Old 12-06-2013, 12:04 PM
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I don't mean to be a snob but you already know you are really width constrained with that room, If all you can fit is an 80 inch wide screen, I think I would scrap plans for a projector, sell the second row of seating, get a nice 70 inch diagonal flat screen TV and pull your chairs up nice and close. Life will be much simpler and you can leave the lights on.
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post #19 of 60 Old 12-06-2013, 12:12 PM - Thread Starter
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I don't mean to be a snob but you already know you are really width constrained with that room, If all you can fit is an 80 inch wide screen, I think I would scrap plans for a projector, sell the second row of seating, get a nice 70 inch diagonal flat screen TV and pull your chairs up nice and close. Life will be much simpler and you can leave the lights on.

With the way the room sits currently, I am width constrained and can only fit a 92-100 inch. If I build a false wall, then I can go bigger and put the speakers out further or behind a AT screen. I already have the PJ on its way which I got a great deal on. There is really no second row of seating. Those seats were purchased for a possible use for a second row. Currently they are back ups since Berkline went out of business.

70 inch wide tvs are ridiculously expensive for what you get. after researching them for the last month, clouding, flash lighting, blobs just name a few problems and I'm paying over 2500 bucks for that, no thanks.

Then again, Im just a poor firefighter of 16 years that doesn't wipe my butt with 100 dollar bills, but I'm determined to get what I want. thanks for the kind and encouraging words though.
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post #20 of 60 Old 12-06-2013, 02:22 PM
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If you want the larger screen, and are ready to tackle a DIY screen, then why not go with the false wall now? Read Big's Minimalist Screen Wall thread. You're really only out a few more bucks for lumber and fabric...and some time. It solves the window issue, your screen size concern...saves money down the road, (from having to purchase more screen material...) and best of all, you do it all yourself.
Hell, you can even look at saving more money on the screen material, and look at the Spandex screen thread. (caveat: measured as NOT perfectly AT, and may be a little darker, but you are definitely not lumen challenged...)
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post #21 of 60 Old 12-06-2013, 02:29 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevin g. View Post

If you want the larger screen, and are ready to tackle a DIY screen, then why not go with the false wall now? Read Big's Minimalist Screen Wall thread. You're really only out a few more bucks for lumber and fabric...and some time. It solves the window issue, your screen size concern...saves money down the road, (from having to purchase more screen material...) and best of all, you do it all yourself.
Hell, you can even look at saving more money on the screen material, and look at the Spandex screen thread. (caveat: measured as NOT perfectly AT, and may be a little darker, but you are definitely not lumen challenged...)

false wall is on the menu

what fabric do you guys suggest? something in black for sure.
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post #22 of 60 Old 12-06-2013, 02:57 PM
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Nezff, with a one row theater I would be tempted to abandon normal guidelines for screen height and put it as low as tolerable in that room, the lower you go the wider you can make the screen, I would think about a borderless DIY Acoustically transparent screen and put some black velvet panels on the ceiling where the screen and ceiling are the closest to avoid distracting reflections.

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post #23 of 60 Old 12-06-2013, 03:19 PM
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Then again, Im just a poor firefighter of 16 years that doesn't wipe my butt with 100 dollar bills

This is not recommended with the new bill design anyway. The security threads really scratch...

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post #24 of 60 Old 12-06-2013, 04:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Nezff, with a one row theater I would be tempted to abandon normal guidelines for screen height and put it as low as tolerable in that room, the lower you go the wider you can make the screen, I would think about a borderless DIY Acoustically transparent screen and put some black velvet panels on the ceiling where the screen and ceiling are the closest to avoid distracting reflections.


ok. would I need to mount my PJ lower in the ceiling to compensate for the lower screen?
I think you lost me on the black velvet panels? If a false wall was there, that big screen could hang on it correct? I could hide all speakers and subs behind it. Only issue is finding a place for my components.(xpa5, Marantz 8801, sony BP, xbox one, ps4)
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This is not recommended with the new bill design anyway. The security threads really scratch...

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post #25 of 60 Old 12-06-2013, 04:18 PM - Thread Starter
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This is the space I have on each side of the room. The roof of course slants down making my space less as I travel up.

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post #26 of 60 Old 12-06-2013, 05:00 PM
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ok. would I need to mount my PJ lower in the ceiling to compensate for the lower screen?
I think you lost me on the black velvet panels? If a false wall was there, that big screen could hang on it correct? I could hide all speakers and subs behind it. Only issue is finding a place for my components.(xpa5, Marantz 8801, sony BP, xbox one, ps4)
tongue.gif

The panny has some vertical shift and with a 16:9 screen can be above the top edge, I've never hung an 8000 you need to check the manual for how high. On older versions if you go with a 2.35 screen and want to use the memory zoom functions you had to have it no higher than the top edge of the screen. Since your screen is size limited I would suggest a 16:9 format. 2.35 content will be the same size, 16:9 will just be bigger than if you had to reduce to fit the height of a 2.35 screen.

As for the black velvet what I was thinking is that if you build a borderless screen and literally mount it with the corners touching the ceiling there will be considerable reflections off the ceiling bouncing back on the screen reducing image contrast and the bright spots on the wall will be a visual distraction. The best way to attack that problem is with some light absorption in those areas. Velvet does it. You could integrate it with the look you have going with the acoustical panels.
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post #27 of 60 Old 12-06-2013, 05:15 PM - Thread Starter
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The panny has a some vertical shift and with a 16:9 screen can be above the top edge, I've never hung an 8000 you need to check the manual for how high. On older versions if you go with a 2.35 screen and want to use the memory zoom functions you had to have it no higher than the top edge of the screen. Since your screen is size limited I would suggest a 16:9 format. 2.35 content will be the same size, 16:9 will just be bigger than if you had to reduce to fit the height of a 2.35 screen.

As for the black velvet what I was thinking is that if you build a borderless screen and literally mount it with the corners touching the ceiling there will be considerable reflections off the ceiling bouncing back on the screen reducing image contrast and the bright spots on the wall will be a visual distraction. The best way to attack that problem is with some light absorption in those areas. Velvet does it. You could integrate it with the look you have going with the acoustical panels.

O, ok. gotcha on the velvet.

I think I was pretty set on a 16x9 screen. Basically I could get a larger screen if I hung it lower.
Im thinking the false wall would be my only option.

I plan on turning the subs into the corners which they only take up 22 inches width wise. move the front speakers either further out on the outside of the screen or behind it. I could put the center channel on a stand or hide it also behind an AT screen.

Just spoke with James from Jamestown and I could get the DIY stuff from him or he could make it and save me time. I work 24 hour shifts and a side job.
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post #28 of 60 Old 12-06-2013, 05:18 PM
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Jamestown screens take up several of your valuable inches with a black border.
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post #29 of 60 Old 12-09-2013, 11:12 AM
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I thought in the AE-8000 owner’s thread I shared my DYI screen in my Signature. I did the minimalist wall that Big created. I built it like Big stated above “frameless”. It can be built for a little over $650 including lumber and velvet that I wrapped around the frame first. You can just paint the frame flat back and use the stretch and staple method that Big and many others do then it should be a little over $400. I just like the grommets that Seymour installed along with the bands making it fool proof.

Don’t over think the projector central chart that is calculated in Dynamic mode so max lumens. When running in rec709 or Dcinema mode like I do there no worry about being over bright.

Love the spray foam I had my house foamed during construction. Put some R13 in those walls and some R19 above the ceiling to help you with sound proofing.
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post #30 of 60 Old 12-10-2013, 07:41 PM - Thread Starter
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I thought in the AE-8000 owner’s thread I shared my DYI screen in my Signature. I did the minimalist wall that Big created. I built it like Big stated above “frameless”. It can be built for a little over $650 including lumber and velvet that I wrapped around the frame first. You can just paint the frame flat back and use the stretch and staple method that Big and many others do then it should be a little over $400. I just like the grommets that Seymour installed along with the bands making it fool proof.

Don’t over think the projector central chart that is calculated in Dynamic mode so max lumens. When running in rec709 or Dcinema mode like I do there no worry about being over bright.

Love the spray foam I had my house foamed during construction. Put some R13 in those walls and some R19 above the ceiling to help you with sound proofing.

You did, and I appreciate it. Im just trying to get other ideas.

Currently Im thinking of a couple different options.

Option 1: Go bigger than a 92 inch screen OR as big as I can go without the screen hanging too low. Move ALL speakers behind screen and build a false wall covered in fabric. Not sure where I would locate my components which is what is holding me back from the false wall.

Option 2: build a false wall, go big as possible, and put all three front speakers in front of the wall, hide the subs behind the wall. Still not sure where to locate my components like bluray, pre pro, and xpa5. I would have to figure out a way to hide them behind the screen wall also.

Option 3: get a 92 inch screen and hold off on wall and nothing would have to move. I could take my center out of the cabinet, put it on the stand where it should be, and have room for more components.
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