Soundproofing master thread - Page 16 - AVS Forum
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post #451 of 612 Old 05-11-2014, 11:40 PM
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Originally Posted by theirishgonzo View Post

ok my queston I have 4 18 in subs powered by 4,000 wats the olny complaint I get when watching a movie is it shakes the entire house I de-coupled the subs bolting them to the concrete floor and I have the best Rockwell sound inslation in the walls is there anything I can do to cutdown on the shakeing that is not expencive this is all in the basement

Four things

#1) direct vibration. This is where the subwoofer actually shakes the framing directly. Denis Erskine used to put subwoofers on a front stage. That front stage was sitting on top of Acoustik Mat which decoupled/damped some of the communicated vibration without triple leafing it, and the stage was filled with sand to reduce its vibration by increasing its mass.

I see that there's a 'Serenity Mat' now,
http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/soundproofing-products/soundproofing-floor-underlay/serenity-mat-flooring-underlay/
which according to this page
http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/soundproofing-articles/flooring-protecting-a-concrete-slab/
"Serenity Mat Underlay installed on a concrete slab will effectively shield against coincidence frequencies of concrete"

#2) but with 4000 watts, a lot of that transmission is still going to be a ton of airborne sound, in addition to direct vibration. This sound energy is literally expanding and contracting the room -- putting pressure on all the walls, floor, ceiling, doors, etc; and that's going through. Floating the front stage isn't going to help with that. For that you need soundproofing. All the usual rules for soundproofing, nothing new there. Since you have an existing room, perhaps there's some part of the room's soundproofing that's dramatically worse/weaker than the others, that can also be fixed (see image below).

#3) turn it down #1: Having a remote 'off switch' for the subwoofers. There are a lot of movies that can be pleasantly watched without 1hz to 50hz content. If you're not making the noise that goes through walls, then little noise goes through the walls.

#4) turn it down #2: high pass filter. Some receivers have a "Night" button or 'high pass filter' ability, which basically turns the subwoofers way down.


[humor]
"the four pillars of sound-proofing"
Putting the 4 subwoofers up on 4 pillars, isn't going to help, unless the pillars are 500' high.

Flanking3.gif
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post #452 of 612 Old 05-12-2014, 07:25 AM
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Thanks cw5billwade, conspiracy* and granroth for your responses !
Yes I meant to list the R19 as well, already bought a few rolls. Thanks for pointing out the acoustic treatment. I will certainly try out a few things and see when I can stop smile.gif
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post #453 of 612 Old 05-13-2014, 08:05 AM
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In my build, I am not planning on any soundproofing. However, someone had mentioned that in their untreated dedicated HT, the majority of sound escapes through the AC supplies in the room. He recommended it would be worthwhile to at least building dead vents for the supplies going into the room if nothing else.

Is this the case? Should I look into pulling some of the ceiling down to hang dead vents for the supplies? How much do you think it would actually help out with sound coming out of the theater considering I'm not doing anything else?

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post #454 of 612 Old 05-13-2014, 06:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ClemsonJeeper View Post

In my build, I am not planning on any soundproofing. However, someone had mentioned that in their untreated dedicated HT, the majority of sound escapes through the AC supplies in the room. He recommended it would be worthwhile to at least building dead vents for the supplies going into the room if nothing else.

Is this the case? Should I look into pulling some of the ceiling down to hang dead vents for the supplies? How much do you think it would actually help out with sound coming out of the theater considering I'm not doing anything else?

Ductwork can, indeed, be a major conduit for sound. It's definitely not the major factor in most cases, though. It would be the limiting factor mostly in cases where you have a duct that directly connects two rooms that are otherwise not connected at all. For instance, I have a "trunk" duct in my house that connects all of the rooms on one side of the house. You can clearly hear what is happening (in very low voices) in the far room from within the nearest room via the ducts -- even though you wouldn't normally hear that noise at all.

But that's a specific case that's unlikely to be similar to ductwork in most households.

If you are just referring to rooms that are adjoining, then your common (untreated) walls will be a FAR bigger source of sound leakage than the ductwork. In fact, the total amount of sound escaping the room in all directions will dwarf the sound in the ducts.

That is, if you were going to pull down the ceiling to hang dead vents, then you would likely see a bigger impact by replacing the ceiling with two layers of 5/8 Type X with Green Glue in between, plus some insulation. Oh, and do the dead vent, too.


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post #455 of 612 Old 05-13-2014, 06:34 PM
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We have 2 6" ducts for our HVAC in our HT room and I was thinking of going with 50' of 8" ducting zig zagged along the ceiling behind out AT screen and then exiting to our return for the house... Will that do, or do I need to do a muffler?

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post #456 of 612 Old 05-13-2014, 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by granroth View Post

Ductwork can, indeed, be a major conduit for sound. It's definitely not the major factor in most cases, though. It would be the limiting factor mostly in cases where you have a duct that directly connects two rooms that are otherwise not connected at all. For instance, I have a "trunk" duct in my house that connects all of the rooms on one side of the house. You can clearly hear what is happening (in very low voices) in the far room from within the nearest room via the ducts -- even though you wouldn't normally hear that noise at all.

But that's a specific case that's unlikely to be similar to ductwork in most households.

If you are just referring to rooms that are adjoining, then your common (untreated) walls will be a FAR bigger source of sound leakage than the ductwork. In fact, the total amount of sound escaping the room in all directions will dwarf the sound in the ducts.

That is, if you were going to pull down the ceiling to hang dead vents, then you would likely see a bigger impact by replacing the ceiling with two layers of 5/8 Type X with Green Glue in between, plus some insulation. Oh, and do the dead vent, too.

Thanks for the response. Yeah, sounds like there will be minimal gain by doing just the dead vents. I'm trying to avoid pulling the ceiling completely.

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post #457 of 612 Old 05-13-2014, 10:22 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ClemsonJeeper View Post

Thanks for the response. Yeah, sounds like there will be minimal gain by doing just the dead vents. I'm trying to avoid pulling the ceiling completely.

You could actually get a notable bang for the buck without pulling the ceiling at all -- just add another layer of 5/8 Type X to your existing layer all around (with Green Glue in between, preferably). Get a good quality solid core door and make sure it seals when it closes. That'll make a notable difference.

But yeah, pulling the ceiling and decoupling and then adding insulation would go a LOT farther. It's all what your goals are and what you're willing to do ;-)
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post #458 of 612 Old 05-15-2014, 04:07 PM
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So I was able to fire up my system for the first time in 'normal' viewing mode and found that the sound is carried all the way from the basement to the kids rooms on the second floor through the heating vents and the returns. They don't originate in my HT room but they pass through. For now I'm working with R19 and will try to cover the ducts. From there everything is still to be decided. I was thinking another layer of R19 but 90degress off, covered by PolyIso panels. Anything to avoid working with DW smile.gif
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post #459 of 612 Old 05-15-2014, 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by VolkerH. View Post

So I was able to fire up my system for the first time in 'normal' viewing mode and found that the sound is carried all the way from the basement to the kids rooms on the second floor through the heating vents and the returns. They don't originate in my HT room but they pass through. For now I'm working with R19 and will try to cover the ducts. From there everything is still to be decided. I was thinking another layer of R19 but 90degress off, covered by PolyIso panels. Anything to avoid working with DW smile.gif
How are you going to deal with keeping the room heated or cooled if you cover the vents?

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post #460 of 612 Old 05-15-2014, 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by VolkerH. View Post

Anything to avoid working with DW smile.gif

This is your tragic flaw in logic, Superior soundproofing is a result of a balanced approach of Mass, Dampening. Isolation and Absorption. Two layers of DW with Green Glue dampening agent, hung on a clip and channel isolation system for the walls and ceiling should get the job done. Sounds like you have the insulation part (Absorbtion) completed Drywall is your mass in the equation.


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post #461 of 612 Old 05-15-2014, 05:04 PM
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Originally Posted by ellisr63 View Post

How are you going to deal with keeping the room heated or cooled if you cover the vents?
There are no vents terminating in the room. Only ducts leading through the ceiling in that room which terminate in the second floor.
For heating needs (during winter) I might relay on a space heater. For the summer I might be ok with the temp. The basement stays cool. Though I don't have much data yet,we just bought the place.
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post #462 of 612 Old 05-15-2014, 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

This is your tragic flaw in logic, Superior soundproofing is a result of a balanced approach of Mass, Dampening. Isolation and Absorption. Two layers of DW with Green Glue dampening agent, hung on a clip and channel isolation system for the walls and ceiling should get the job done. Sounds like you have the insulation part (Absorbtion) completed Drywall is your mass in the equation.
Is that to keep noise out, to keep noise in (which I'm after) or both ?
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post #463 of 612 Old 05-15-2014, 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by granroth View Post

You could actually get a notable bang for the buck without pulling the ceiling at all -- just add another layer of 5/8 Type X to your existing layer all around (with Green Glue in between, preferably). Get a good quality solid core door and make sure it seals when it closes. That'll make a notable difference.

But yeah, pulling the ceiling and decoupling and then adding insulation would go a LOT farther. It's all what your goals are and what you're willing to do ;-)

Is that really a noticeable difference? I've read people's threads who have done double drywall without decoupling and were less than impressed with the results. I'd consider sticking a layer of 5/8 over the existing drywall with GG if it actually would make a reasonable difference.

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post #464 of 612 Old 05-15-2014, 06:34 PM - Thread Starter
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Is that really a noticeable difference? I've read people's threads who have done double drywall without decoupling and were less than impressed with the results. I'd consider sticking a layer of 5/8 over the existing drywall with GG if it actually would make a reasonable difference.

Double drywall with GG all around will give you an STC 5 increase. That's absolutely noticeable. BUT the devil is in the details. You could go with double drywall all around and then not address the door and see essentially no difference. Sound always finds the easiest pathway and if a flanking path exists, then it'll take it. That STC 5 increase is lost with a standard hollow core door or even a solid core one with no seals.

STC 5 is noticeable, but it's not groundbreaking. Doing the full decoupling + insulation + double drywall + GG (and treating the door) will make a MASSIVE difference.

Honestly, I wouldn't ever do just the drywall, since the added expense and effort to do it all up right isn't significantly more (relatively speaking). That's me, though wink.gif
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post #465 of 612 Old 05-15-2014, 06:35 PM - Thread Starter
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Is that to keep noise out, to keep noise in (which I'm after) or both ?

Soundproofing always works both ways.
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post #466 of 612 Old 05-18-2014, 12:43 PM
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How do you deal with a bundle of wires (cat5 and rg6) entering a double walled HT? Do you just cut a big hole, and use clay pads to seal it off from the back side?

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post #467 of 612 Old 05-18-2014, 03:34 PM
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How do you deal with a bundle of wires (cat5 and rg6) entering a double walled HT? Do you just cut a big hole, and use clay pads to seal it off from the back side?

Depends on how many wires. I drilled 1/4 to 1/2 inch holes and stuffed the cables through them. I made the holes only as big as needed and then after the wires were through sealed the hole and around the wires with acoustic caulk.
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post #468 of 612 Old 05-18-2014, 04:18 PM
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Depends on how many wires. I drilled 1/4 to 1/2 inch holes and stuffed the cables through them. I made the holes only as big as needed and then after the wires were through sealed the hole and around the wires with acoustic caulk.
So we have around 20 wires... Would it be best to drill 20 holes that are just big enough, then run each wire individually, and then clay or caulk each hole?

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So we have around 20 wires... Would it be best to drill 20 holes that are just big enough, then run each wire individually, and then clay or caulk each hole?

 

Why so many wires?   You could easily squeeze several of them through each 1/4" hole and then you might be able to get away with only drilling a small series of holes.  Personally I wouldn't make 20 separate holes if you can avoid it.  That's like turning your wall into swiss cheese.  Another option is to run something like ENT conduit (3/4" or bigger) through the wall, caulk the gap between conduit and wall, and then plug the conduit after the wires are through.  This way you can still remove or run new wires through the conduit later if needed.  However, I should probably defer to someone else on the forum who has actually run this many wires into their HT through one spot.



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post #470 of 612 Old 05-18-2014, 05:17 PM
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Why so many wires?   You could easily squeeze several of them through each 1/4" hole and then you might be able to get away with only drilling a small series of holes.  Personally I wouldn't make 20 separate holes if you can avoid it.  That's like turning your wall into swiss cheese.  Another option is to run something like ENT conduit (3/4" or bigger) through the wall, caulk the gap between conduit and wall, and then plug the conduit after the wires are through.  This way you can still remove or run new wires through the conduit later if needed.  However, I should probably defer to someone else on the forum who has actually run this many wires into their HT through one spot.
We have a 24 port switch and it will be in the HT room most likely... If we put it in a different room then we would have around 10 cat 5 cables to exit the room to the switch. The only other option I can think of is to get a small gigabit switch and let it connect to the 24 port one, but I don't like having a bunch of them to have to setup. My concern with a big hole is you will only be sealing the outer edge of the wires, and sound could leak through between the wires. Another option I thought of was to mount a patch panel in the wall, but then I am looking at a big hole that is plugged by a piece of metal with a bunch of ports... Which I think would mean even more leakage.

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post #471 of 612 Old 05-19-2014, 07:36 AM
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For experimental purposes, I took 2 16x48x3 Roxul SafeNSound panels and placed them between the drop ceiling and a duct/vent directly above my home theater area. It made quite a lot of difference so I'm looking forward to doing all the joists with renewed optimism.
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post #472 of 612 Old 05-19-2014, 06:52 PM
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We have a 24 port switch and it will be in the HT room most likely... If we put it in a different room then we would have around 10 cat 5 cables to exit the room to the switch. The only other option I can think of is to get a small gigabit switch and let it connect to the 24 port one, but I don't like having a bunch of them to have to setup. My concern with a big hole is you will only be sealing the outer edge of the wires, and sound could leak through between the wires. Another option I thought of was to mount a patch panel in the wall, but then I am looking at a big hole that is plugged by a piece of metal with a bunch of ports... Which I think would mean even more leakage.

 

Just thinking outside of the box here.  I wonder if you could use something like a foam cable entry box (e.g. http://www.blackbox.com/Store/Detail.aspx/Elite-QuietCab-Cable-Entry-Box/QCE%C4%82CEB), used in server/pc equipment storage cabs.  Maybe there is a way to incorporate a foam cable entry box into the wall or even into a backer box on your wall's entry point.  It would probably be fairly easy to seal/caulk the edges of one of these cable entry boxes and the foam would prevent the sound leakage around the cables as they would all be laid out flat.  I have no experience with this nor do I know if it would even work, but just a thought.  Other option I guess is drill a bunch of small holes and putty pad or caulk as previously discussed.

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post #473 of 612 Old 05-20-2014, 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by ellisr63 View Post

We have a 24 port switch and it will be in the HT room most likely... If we put it in a different room then we would have around 10 cat 5 cables to exit the room to the switch. The only other option I can think of is to get a small gigabit switch and let it connect to the 24 port one, but I don't like having a bunch of them to have to setup. My concern with a big hole is you will only be sealing the outer edge of the wires, and sound could leak through between the wires. Another option I thought of was to mount a patch panel in the wall, but then I am looking at a big hole that is plugged by a piece of metal with a bunch of ports... Which I think would mean even more leakage.
In cases where one wants the ability to make temporary connections between rooms the solution is to install some PVC pipe fittings through the wall and use what plumbers call a “Tee – Wye” fitting with a threaded “clean out” on each end. This series of fittings can be “force fitted” into the wall with foam insulation or secured with silicone. Each side would have a hand tightened plastic plug so you can see what you are doing (straight line view through the wall with the plug removed) while passing the wires through, but the wires themselves would actually be going the indirect route via the “leg” of the wye section. After the wires are in place one need only stuff some foam rubber into the open pipe ends then screw the caps back on to minimize any direct sound transfer. These two fittings need not be directly connected to each other inside the wall and can have a small gap between them to keep the sound / vibration transfer to a minimum. The whole idea is just to have a sealed but neat looking access port between the two sides.
http://www.sweetwater.com/insync/running-wires-through-sound-proof-walls/

Why is there NO perfect equipment, only compromises?
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post #474 of 612 Old 05-20-2014, 11:42 AM
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I am ordering my door seals, and I am not sure which to get.

Should I get this one... http://www.tmsoundproofing.com/Door-Seal-Self-Adhesive.html

or this one... http://www.tmsoundproofing.com/Door-Seal-Self-Adhesive-Batwing-style.html

I am also trying to decide between these 2 auto door seals...
http://www.tmsoundproofing.com/heavy-duty-automatic-door-bottom-soundproof.html

or this one...
http://www.tmsoundproofing.com/Heavy-Duty-High-Sound-Automatic-Door-Bottom.html


Should I get a threshold too? http://www.tmsoundproofing.com/Utility-Door-Threshold-1-4-Height.html
We have 2 solid core doors separated by 6' and the hallway is more of a ramp like you see in the theaters... We will have carpet once you cross the first threshold. Outside of the first door is flagstone.

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post #475 of 612 Old 05-22-2014, 06:09 AM
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I'm flip flopping on soundproofing. After being in someones soundproofed theater this past weekend, I'm flopping more back towards going for it.

Right now, the room is finished on 3 sides with 1/2 drywall + ceiling. I'd obviously have to pull all this down to get to the studs.

2 of the walls (the back of the room and the right of the room ) are up against concrete foundation. The left wall is shared with a bathroom and the main rec room. The front wall I have already torn out since I am moving it back 2 feet and building a stage / false wall for speakers behind.

My concerns are room width. As it is now with the 1/2" finished drywall, the room is 11'11". My chairs are 3x fusion escapes which sit at about 98" wide or so, so that gives me a little under 2 feet (22.5") on each side for passage to the rear row. This is tight but acceptable for me given the room size. However if I add on clips + dd + gg, this removes 2 3/8" on each side of clearance (if my math is correct) so now I'm down to 20" on each side -- even more cramped.

Any suggestions with this?

I've thought about tearing down the right foundation wall and rebuilding it with IB3 clips mounting to blocking to the joists. I'd only be doing one of the foundation walls because I'm not length constrained - just width constrained). I think this would save me on the clip installation of 1 5/8 on the wall so that would just be 2 layers of 5/8 DW. So that would only add 3/4" on the right side of the room. The left side I am stuck using whisper clips because it is sharing a bathroom + rec room finished wall. If I go this route this means I will only be losing 3 1/8" width (2 3/8" for WhisperClips + DD + GG and 0.75 for DD+GG on the IB3 wall).

Does all this math sound right?

Some questions then. When framing a IB3 wall, how do you do it properly (any tips/tricks)? I obviously want to build the wall shorter than normal so it barely reaches the joists and I use the clips to attach to joists (or to blocking between joists)? How do I connect the framed walls side by side to existing framed walls that are attached to the joists?

Also with respect to using a double layer of drywall or using a first layer of 5/8 osb then 5/8 drywall - why do people do this? Is it recommended? Which is more difficult to install?

When hanging drywall, do you start on the ceiling or walls? I'm guessing I will need to build backer boxes for any penetrations in the drywall (I'm likely going to sink my surrounds into the wall some to save on them sticking out into the room sofar). How do you attach the backer boxes to your drywall shell?

With respect to HVAC, there are two runs that go the width of the room that feed the room above. Do I need to treat these? I also have 2 supplies and no return into the room. My HVAC unit is in the unfinished area behind my screen wall, so its relatively easy access. I'm also planning on adding soffits after the drywall shell goes up so I can pretty easily run a return to the rear of the room in the soffit (maybe even turn a portion of the entire soffit into a return as Jeff suggested). Either way - I have to penetrate the drywall shell to get the return in there - how do you go about doing that in a soundproofed sort of way?

More questions, with a serenity mat. Would you only use it + OSB underneath a stage where big subs would be sitting?

Lots of questions - hope people can help!

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post #476 of 612 Old 05-22-2014, 01:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ClemsonJeeper View Post

I'm flip flopping on soundproofing. After being in someones soundproofed theater this past weekend, I'm flopping more back towards going for it.

Right now, the room is finished on 3 sides with 1/2 drywall + ceiling. I'd obviously have to pull all this down to get to the studs.

2 of the walls (the back of the room and the right of the room ) are up against concrete foundation. The left wall is shared with a bathroom and the main rec room. The front wall I have already torn out since I am moving it back 2 feet and building a stage / false wall for speakers behind.

no need for clips here if you can decouple the studs from the ceiling joists. Just two layers with GG.

My concerns are room width. As it is now with the 1/2" finished drywall, the room is 11'11". My chairs are 3x fusion escapes which sit at about 98" wide or so, so that gives me a little under 2 feet (22.5") on each side for passage to the rear row. This is tight but acceptable for me given the room size. However if I add on clips + dd + gg, this removes 2 3/8" on each side of clearance (if my math is correct) so now I'm down to 20" on each side -- even more cramped.

correct math but agian only on one side

I've thought about tearing down the right foundation wall and rebuilding it with IB3 clips mounting to blocking to the joists. I'd only be doing one of the foundation walls because I'm not length constrained - just width constrained). I think this would save me on the clip installation of 1 5/8 on the wall so that would just be 2 layers of 5/8 DW. So that would only add 3/4" on the right side of the room. The left side I am stuck using whisper clips because it is sharing a bathroom + rec room finished wall. If I go this route this means I will only be losing 3 1/8" width (2 3/8" for WhisperClips + DD + GG and 0.75 for DD+GG on the IB3 wall).

per Sound Proffing Company IB-1 clips will work just as good as the Whisper and save you money and about 1/2"

Some questions then. When framing a IB3 wall, how do you do it properly (any tips/tricks)? I obviously want to build the wall shorter than normal so it barely reaches the joists and I use the clips to attach to joists (or to blocking between joists)? How do I connect the framed walls side by side to existing framed walls that are attached to the joists?

start as close to the corner as you can i.e. first floor joist and then every 48" along the wall. leave about 1' between top of wall and floor joist

Also with respect to using a double layer of drywall or using a first layer of 5/8 osb then 5/8 drywall - why do people do this? Is it recommended? Which is more difficult to install?

I did OSB so I could then mount my columns, soffits, coffers, projector and the like this gives you something to screw them into without having to hit a channel. Also same with the trim just hit it with a brad nailer and call it a day.

When hanging drywall, do you start on the ceiling or walls? I'm guessing I will need to build backer boxes for any penetrations in the drywall (I'm likely going to sink my surrounds into the wall some to save on them sticking out into the room sofar). How do you attach the backer boxes to your drywall shell?

ceiling first layer insure it does not tuch any studs then walls back to ceiling than walls

With respect to HVAC, there are two runs that go the width of the room that feed the room above. Do I need to treat these?

If you are using clips on the ceiling I think I would use R13 under the HVAC line and R19 every where else

I also have 2 supplies and no return into the room. My HVAC unit is in the unfinished area behind my screen wall, so its relatively easy access. I'm also planning on adding soffits after the drywall shell goes up so I can pretty easily run a return to the rear of the room in the soffit (maybe even turn a portion of the entire soffit into a return as Jeff suggested). Either way - I have to penetrate the drywall shell to get the return in there - how do you go about doing that in a soundproofed sort of way?

penetrate in the soffits then stuff around the HVAC with R19 or what every you have then the soffits are also DW/GG/DW same with the supplies check my thread

More questions, with a serenity mat. Would you only use it + OSB underneath a stage where big subs would be sitting?

did not use it no help here

Lots of questions - hope people can help!


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post #477 of 612 Old 05-22-2014, 06:38 PM
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Quote:
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no need for clips here if you can decouple the studs from the ceiling joists. Just two layers with GG.

Cool. This is what I'm going to do. Tear down the two framed foundation walls, and rebuild using IB3 clips.
Quote:
per Sound Proffing Company IB-1 clips will work just as good as the Whisper and save you money and about 1/2"

Cool. I ended up going with WhisperClips since everyone here seems to recommend them. I'm not too too concerned with 1/2". (I say that now).
Quote:
start as close to the corner as you can i.e. first floor joist and then every 48" along the wall. leave about 1' between top of wall and floor joist

John @ TSG also said I should do 24 on center studs which should be plenty so it minimizes the amount of transfer points even though its decoupled. Think this would still be sturdy enough to hang 5/8 OSB + 5/8 Drywall?
Quote:
I did OSB so I could then mount my columns, soffits, coffers, projector and the like this gives you something to screw them into without having to hit a channel. Also same with the trim just hit it with a brad nailer and call it a day.

Yeah this is my plan. I'm likely only going to be doing soffits (no columns, coffers, etc). But I like the idea of just hanging the OSB and it being more rigid.
Quote:
ceiling first layer insure it does not tuch any studs then walls back to ceiling than walls

How far off the studs do I need to set the ceiling? My guess would be 1 1/4" off the studs that are decoupled (since there are no clips) and that leaves room for the OSB + Drywall + GG. Then on the single wall with clips, leave 2 7/8 for the clip + osb + drywall + gg? This way I leave enough room for all the hardware + osb + drywall and then I when I do the walls I should be able to just install it butting up to the ceiling layer?
Quote:
If you are using clips on the ceiling I think I would use R13 under the HVAC line and R19 every where else

Yeah just going to do insulation in the ceiling and maybe change from rigid lines to flex ducts.
Quote:
penetrate in the soffits then stuff around the HVAC with R19 or what every you have then the soffits are also DW/GG/DW same with the supplies check my thread

Won't this still transmit a ton of sound back into the HVAC system?

Thanks for the help! Got my clips ordered and should be here saturday. Busy gutting the room right now.

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post #478 of 612 Old 05-27-2014, 08:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ClemsonJeeper View Post


John @ TSG also said I should do 24 on center studs which should be plenty so it minimizes the amount of transfer points even though its decoupled. Think this would still be sturdy enough to hang 5/8 OSB + 5/8 Drywall?
should be fine being in bonus room mine were 24" on cneter

How far off the studs do I need to set the ceiling? My guess would be 1 1/4" off the studs that are decoupled (since there are no clips) and that leaves room for the OSB + Drywall + GG. Then on the single wall with clips, leave 2 7/8 for the clip + osb + drywall + gg? This way I leave enough room for all the hardware + osb + drywall and then I when I do the walls I should be able to just install it butting up to the ceiling layer?
I think you are over thinking it. On the decoupled walls (IB-3 clips next to concrete) you need between 1/8” and 1/4" away from 2x4 since your first layer on the wall will be screwed to 2x4. on whisper clip side just as long as it extends past the channel and does not touch the 2x4. You want the wall layer to butt up to the ceiling then caulk the cracks

Yeah just going to do insulation in the ceiling and maybe change from rigid lines to flex ducts.
Won't this still transmit a ton of sound back into the HVAC system?
if these lines are for main house I would not change them as flex will reduce air flow and your HVAC is designed with the current hard lines. I would leave them. As for the sound transmission like I said I would put R13 or even some ridged insulation like roxel between them and the OSB layer and R19 stapled to the rest of the floor joists.

Thanks for the help! Got my clips ordered and should be here saturday. Busy gutting the room right now.


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post #479 of 612 Old 05-31-2014, 11:19 AM
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We have our dryer ducting that will be running along the floor in a soffit in our HT room... Is it sufficient to stuff the soffit with insulation, and double drywall it or should we use 4" insulated HVAC flex ducting?

Denon 4520ci, (3) JBL 2360As/EV DHA-1s, (3) 1/4 Pie bass bins, MiniDSP 2x4s, (4) Klipsch HIPs, (2) Klipsch KP3002s, PS3, XBox 360, (3) Intel NUCs, Monoprice Redmere, Monster HTPS7000, 2 SUPER SPUD subs, Panasonic AE8000us SeymourAV 180 (195" diagonal) scope screen, Yamaha P7000s (for the subs), (2) Yamaha P2500s amps for the front (3) bass bins.
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post #480 of 612 Old 05-31-2014, 12:05 PM
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Dryer ducting that runs in concealed spaces should be metal to reduce the chance of a fire being spread via the duct. It also needs to be sturdy enough to withstand the insertion and operation of a lint clean-out brush along the entire route. Try to avoid tight bends. You could add damped mass to the outside of the duct to minimize sound transfer, Like Dynamat Extreme. You can add some insulation, and while I think Fiberglass is OK to be on the safe side you could surround it with Roxul.
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