Soundproofing master thread - Page 32 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
Forum Jump: 
 21Likes
Reply
Thread Tools
post #931 of 938 Old 03-01-2015, 02:51 PM
AVS Special Member
 
mtbdudex's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 5,040
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 77 Post(s)
Liked: 373
Soundproofing master thread

What's inside your exterior metal door?
I doubt it's wood/particle board/ mdf, rather a foam core? Good insulator but weak for attaching thru via a coarse screw.
If so, how to secure your added mdf sheets?
Bolt thru all the way both sides of door would work but not look nice.


Via Mikes brain/thumb interface, LLAP
mtbdudex is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #932 of 938 Old 03-01-2015, 04:57 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
granroth's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Gilbert, AZ
Posts: 935
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 319 Post(s)
Liked: 208
Quote:
Originally Posted by dan webster View Post
I realize this may have been discussed here before. I just finished building a wall and installing a exterior metal door at the bottom of my basement stairs going into my theater. Before this the whole area was open . This certainly has made a significant difference in reducing much of the sound from traveling up the stairs. I have never been too concerned with soundproofing my basement theater up until now. I used roxul safe and sound in the wall and added another layer to my existing insulated drop ceiling . Except for the very low base i am satisfied with the results except for the door. I feel it is the weak point and am considering adding some mass to it. From my research here i was thinking about 2 sheets of 1/2 " mdf with green glue between them screwed to the inside of the metal door and possible another gasket around the door jam to better seal the mdf. I would appreciate any other thoughts or feedback.
If it's a traditional steel exterior door, then it'll be filled with foam -- not a very good door from a soundproofing perspective. If it's hollow, though, then you have some options. The best soundproofed doors are actually steel doors that are filled with concrete or some other similarly ultra-dense material. If yours is hollow, then drilling some holes in it and filling it with concrete or, better yet, sand, would make for an extremely heavy but very sound resistant door.

Your next best bet is to actually replace that door with a solid-core one. Believe it or not, the interior solid-core doors are actually better from a sound proofing perspective than an exterior door. You can typically get one for $200 or so.

If you're sticking with that door, then adding the MDF with Green Glue plus sealing off the entire thing with gaskets would definitely help quite a bit and well worth the time to do it! I'd glue that first layer of MDF on the door with PL-375 or similar. Screws can keep things aligned, but I don't know how much I'd trust just screws long-term -- the glue will go a long way.
granroth is offline  
post #933 of 938 Old 03-02-2015, 06:47 AM
Member
 
jackforceus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 74
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 11 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Soundproofing questions

Hello experts,
You might have answered these questions thousand times. I tried to read the threads but there were several suggestions and I couldn't really understand how to use them for my requirements.Sorry...
I have attached the picture of my unfinished basement room that I'm planning to use as a home theater. Its going to be a open home theater and I would like to do my best to contain sound going into the first floor. Two sides and a half sides are concrete. The room width is w - 178 * L - 240 with a 9 ft ceiling height

Can you please advice me with the following questions?
1). What kind of sound insulation do I need for walls, ceiling and floor?
2). What all the materials do I need to purchase and where to purchase them?
3). I was thinking most of Low frequency tries to escape through the ceiling, so having a good sound insulation for ceiling would cover the sound issues?
4). I would like this room to be a sitting room as well as home theater if needed. Planning to have a fireplace, shelves etc. Will pull the projector screen if we want to watch something. Would that work?
4). How much big of a screen size can I have?
Thanks a lot..
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	20150221_172924.jpg
Views:	33
Size:	127.8 KB
ID:	578041  

Last edited by jackforceus; 03-02-2015 at 06:52 AM. Reason: forgot to add details
jackforceus is offline  
post #934 of 938 Old 03-02-2015, 05:53 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
granroth's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Gilbert, AZ
Posts: 935
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 319 Post(s)
Liked: 208
Quote:
Originally Posted by jackforceus View Post
Hello experts,
You might have answered these questions thousand times. I tried to read the threads but there were several suggestions and I couldn't really understand how to use them for my requirements.Sorry...
I have attached the picture of my unfinished basement room that I'm planning to use as a home theater. Its going to be a open home theater and I would like to do my best to contain sound going into the first floor. Two sides and a half sides are concrete. The room width is w - 178 * L - 240 with a 9 ft ceiling height

Can you please advice me with the following questions?
1). What kind of sound insulation do I need for walls, ceiling and floor?
2). What all the materials do I need to purchase and where to purchase them?
3). I was thinking most of Low frequency tries to escape through the ceiling, so having a good sound insulation for ceiling would cover the sound issues?
4). I would like this room to be a sitting room as well as home theater if needed. Planning to have a fireplace, shelves etc. Will pull the projector screen if we want to watch something. Would that work?
4). How much big of a screen size can I have?
Thanks a lot..
To be honest, you may be an ideal candidate for a theater designing service. You can get a pretty decent plan for under $1000 and it would be money well spent if time is precious.

Alternatively, check out the Home Theater Book (http://thehometheaterbook.com/) which for only $80 will give you a very solid basis of home theater knowledge that you can then build on with more specific questions. It's not quite as quick as paying for a design service, but still requires many many MANY hours less time than finding it all out directly on AVS.
granroth is offline  
post #935 of 938 Unread Yesterday, 07:43 PM
Newbie
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 0
I'm new to AVS forms. I'm building a new home and a dedicated home theatre(15.10 by 19.6). I am interested about sound proofing my theatre. When inquired about the pricing he said its 400 but i don't know what kind of material is he using to do it. Do you guys know if this is typically the price? will it do any better ?
Harish Gangidi is offline  
post #936 of 938 Unread Yesterday, 08:12 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
granroth's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Gilbert, AZ
Posts: 935
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 319 Post(s)
Liked: 208
Quote:
Originally Posted by Harish Gangidi View Post
I'm new to AVS forms. I'm building a new home and a dedicated home theatre(15.10 by 19.6). I am interested about sound proofing my theatre. When inquired about the pricing he said its 400 but i don't know what kind of material is he using to do it. Do you guys know if this is typically the price? will it do any better ?
Unfortunately, just quoting a price means absolutely nothing at all. It could mean, say, the price of the double layer of drywall (which would absolutely help some) or it could mean some overpriced piece of foam that did nothing. It certainly doesn't include the cost of Green Glue, if that comes into play.

The thing is -- soundproofing is all about the details. Every little detail counts if you want to get the most bang for your buck. So even if your builder tells you at a high level what the $400 buys you, it doesn't mean that it would actually be worth $400 unless we could know the specific details of how that solution would be implemented.

That said... no, $400 rarely or never will get a soundproofing solution. It can pay for one element of a larger solution.
granroth is offline  
post #937 of 938 Unread Yesterday, 09:36 PM
Advanced Member
 
ch1sox's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 532
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 85 Post(s)
Liked: 42
Quote:
Originally Posted by Harish Gangidi View Post
I'm new to AVS forms. I'm building a new home and a dedicated home theatre(15.10 by 19.6). I am interested about sound proofing my theatre. When inquired about the pricing he said its 400 but i don't know what kind of material is he using to do it. Do you guys know if this is typically the price? will it do any better ?
A lot of contractors don't fully understand soundprooing principles. They usually just throw insulation in the wall and call it soundproofed.

You'll want to start reading some articles over at soundproofingcompany.com http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/soundproofing101/

Once you've done that you'll need to determine how important it is to you to soundproof. Keep in mind, your weakest link will effect your result. Weakest link such as a door, stairs, vents, etc. Think of it like a fish bowl. If the tank (theater) has a hole, water (sound) is going to leak.

Make sure you do all walls, ceiling and floor. If it's a basement on a concrete slab then the floor can be skipped. If you don't do the walls, sound will flank through the walls and go up or down to the other floors.

The two most important factors are decoupling and mass. When you decouple you build double stud walls with floating joists or use metal channels attached to clips which are attached to the wall studs and ceiling joists. Here's an example of the clips: http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/...solation-clip/ The drywall then attaches to the channel. You want to use 5/8" type x drywall. The more mass, the better. It's recommended to double the 5/8" drywall with staggered seams. If room height is a concern with the clips, you can install the clips/channel to where the ceiling would only be 1/2" inch below the ceiling joists.

To help with cavity resonance you can use pink fiberglass insulation.

If you want to do more, you would than use green glue or something similar between the two pieces of drywall. Keep in mind it's not actually glue. It doesn't harden which allows the drywall to flex.

There is also the issue of ceiling lights. Any lights need to have backer boxes. If you don't use backer boxes than you'll have created a swiss cheese ceiling for sound to travel through. You may also want to treat any supply/return vent that opens into the room. If you have done all this than you should do the outlets as well by using puddy pads or duct seal.

You can read more in depth about these principles at soundproofingcompany.com.

...therefore $400 is more than likely not enough.

Last edited by ch1sox; Yesterday at 09:40 PM.
ch1sox is online now  
post #938 of 938 Unread Today, 05:22 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Brian Fineberg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 4,637
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1112 Post(s)
Liked: 1086
just an fyi from personal experience. My father inlaw built houses for 35 years (lives in one he built entirely..and 2 others) and he thinks roxul safe and sound is a soundproofing solution.

they know nothing of true soundproofing...so only trust what you read here

Panasonic 65VT30 | Panasonic AE8000 HD PJ | Denon x4100 ATMOS 5.2.4| Emotiva XPR-5 | PSA MT110 x 3 FL/C/FR | PSA MT110sur surrounds | DUAL PSA XS30 | OPPO 103 | minidsp | Buttkicker LFE

the SadieMax HT build thread - my first build
Brian Fineberg is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply Dedicated Theater Design & Construction

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off