I'm starting this thread to see if the location I have available to me would suffice and be worth the effort to turn into a HT. It's a basement bedroom location (13'-6" x 15'-6") at the outside corner of my home with two exterior walls and three windows (less that 7sq.ft each). Ceiling height is 8'-6" from concrete floor to bottom of joist. It is a full walkout on both sides of the room. The room site directly below the master bedroom and shares a cold air return with it.
- Use as a dedicated HTR with 106" screen and 4 theater seats
- Prevent as much sound from escaping the room so as not to disturb others.
- Make it as acoustically correct as I can afford :-)
- BenQ w1070 PJ
- Pioneer Elite 7.1 AVR
- 106" diag fixed screen with frame
- Klipsch Synergy speakers F/C/S
- Velodyne 12" Active/Passive 150W Sub
- HTPC (XBMC)
- Sony BR player
- Dish HD
I attached an illustration. I plan on using:Ceiling
(exposed joist currently):
Double R13 batts in the joists with whisper clips, hat channel 5/8" DD/GG.
Considering a soffit with some lights, will build sound boxes above them if so.
Have 1 - 6" metal heat run and 1 - 4" fresh return air vent pipe in ceiling to contend with, plan on wrapping them with insulation? Do I need more for these?Wall's:
Currently have 1/2 "DW, replace everything with 5/8" DD/GG. Use sound isolation caulk on all wall/floor seams/ and electrical boxes. Maybe use 5/8" OSB/Dwall and GG? This way I have attachment substrate.Floor:
Carpet over concrete, no soundproofingDoor:
Replace with solid core and door sealing products.
Sound dampening panels in the room depending on sound reflections.
Base traps (not sure where yet, probably front wall.Concerns:
1. Wall framing - The existing walls (2 interior and 2 exterior) are not decoupled from the ceiling joists above as they are all load baring walls. Will 5/8" DD/GG be effective in stopping sounds from traveling up the wall cavity to the room above if they are coupled? Can't really afford to loose another 6" from the room. Would I short circuit if I trimmed out the windows to the wall?
2. Windows - they are double pane insulated but the exterior walls have 1.5" extruded foam to which they are nailed to (maybe this decouples them?). Will these be an issue to transferring sound through the wall cavity to the room above? The home has cement board siding which really dampens outside noise. I plan on using some sort of blackout window treatment for light and maybe to prevent high frequency reflection, thoughts?
3. Cold air return - not sure what can be done with that since I need a return vent in the room. I don't care about hearing the air flow too much, just not to use it as an amplifier to the room above and be the weak link. Maybe a baffle in the wall to help dampen.
Any advice on the approach and if this room is worth the investment? I'm not looking for the ultimate HT, just a place that I can be proud to invest in and enjoy the results.
Thanks in advance!