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post #1 of 67 Old 01-08-2014, 10:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Well like so many, after years and years of waiting THE WAIT IS FINALLY OVER. I have begun my build.
A short time ago I began a thread in the DIY Forum. That thread was called Bass for the 98%. And in essence my question was how much subwoofage would be sufficient for the 98% of us. Being that some of the guys on that forum have insane amounts of bass in their room I wanted to know if one isnt in the top 2 percent of nuts trying to blow a hole in the space/time continuum with their subwoofers how many would be enough?… For lack of a better idea for a name for this thread I decided to name my build after that thread. ( and in the end I decided 4 subs was enough for me. smile.gif)

So The Room is As follows.





Width - 22;4"
length - 25'7"
Height - 10'

5500 ft cubic. It is a finished room that is being repurposed into a theater/entertainment room

Here is the most recent sketchup model I have done.




The plan is a 140” diagonal CIH Acoustically Transparent Screen
7.4 surround

The equipment list is as follows.

Sony Hw50es projector
Panamorph uh480
Seymour CSXD screen

Denon X4000 reciever
Behringer Inuke nu4-6000 Amp for Subwoofers.
Mini DSP for subwoofer eq

Onix Rocket RS-850s fronts
Onix Rocket RS-200 center
Onix Rocket RS-750 signature surrounds
Onix Rocket RS -250 Bookshelf rear surrounds
4 Stereo integrity 18” D4 subwoofers in 4 cubic ft sealed Cabs (DIY)
( one sub in each corner)

Oppo 103D Blueray player.


I have not decided on Chairs yet so will wait till later down the road for that decision.

Sound proofing

As far as sound proofing I will not be doing any. After exchanging emails with Ted white it did not appear to be something I would be pursuing for the following reasons.

Number 1. The layout of our home is an L shape single story. It is layed out such that the theater room is separated from the rest of the house by the garage. The theater room has no direct access to the rest of the home and so sound does not easily travel to the rest of home. Additionally the bedrooms are on the opposing end of the home so that helps a lot as well. There is also no issues whatsoever with sound travel through our hvac setup.

Number 2. We live on a 1.75 acre lot with our closest neighbor at about 300 feet. So the neighbors should not be a problem.

Number 3. My biggest concern in researching soundproofing is the small road about 80 ft from the room but I did some testing with a Sound pressure meter and measured 31 to 40 db AVG. ( A weighted) and 33-43 db ( C weighted.). I decided its something I can live with. Especially since the majority of time I will be using the room will be after dark when the traffic is minimal.

Number 4. The room has three large 4x6 windows, 1 entry door, and a 6 foot slider. Getting effective soundproofing on all these would be difficult/ costly/ or just plane ugly.

So in the end we decided to go without the soundproofing. Granted this room is not really the perfect room upon which to make a theater room but itss what I've got. so I just have to make it work...

Light Treatment

Two windows behind screen wall will be plugged. smaller entry door will have window sealed. slider will have at a minimum blinds plus heavy light blocking drapes ( velvet??). remaining window will have light proof blinds plus heavy drapes ( velvet etc.) .

Acoustic treateatments.

A. I am planning at this point to install bass trapping in the form or pink fluffy insulation behind the screen wall. From just above the corner loaded subwoofers and reaching to the ceiling.

B. And also behind screen wall along the ceiling where the upper part of the wall and ceiling meet.

C. will be plugging two 4x6 windows behind the screen wall with oc703 but will not be treating the entire back wall.

D. Will build a space between the built in rack and the small corner next to the smaller entry door. Will be stuffing that space for bass trapping as well.

E. All soffits will be stuffed with pink fluffy and the lower panels making up he bottom of the soffits will be fabric to allow for more bass trapping at the majority of corners where ceiling and walls join.

f. Will treat primary reflection points with panels ( oc703 or similar).

I have purchased a calibrated mic and have downloaded REW. So once I am up and running I will see then what if anything else needs to be addressed.

Here are some of the photos I have of the build so far.


Before




Current







Will post updates as I move along

Sony HW50ES | Denon X4000 | Rocket RS850s | Rocket RS200 | Rocket RS750s | Rocket RS250s | Quad Stereo integrity 18" d4 sealed subs | Inuke nu46000 | MiniDSP | Oppo 103D

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post #2 of 67 Old 01-09-2014, 12:31 AM
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If you count the entire population, you're well into those last 2% with 4 subs. wink.gif

Under construction: the Larch theater
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post #3 of 67 Old 01-09-2014, 08:53 AM - Thread Starter
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That may well be. But trying to fill a largish room like mine does take a bit more if you want bass that can satisfy all 98 % of avs'ers. And I also wanted to minimize the nulls and peaks that so many struggle with in their rooms. I have a single sub in my living room and depending on where you sit you either get ok bass or really anemic bass. After researching hearing enough experts like Floyd Toole discuss the merits of 4 subs to minimize room modes, coupled with the good headroom the18's would give me i decided that was the ticket. Plus with DIY the price was soo right!

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post #4 of 67 Old 01-09-2014, 12:04 PM
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I'm not saying you do things wrong, I've got 8x12" in the livingroom, 4x10" in the tv-room and am going to have 6x12" (longthrow) in the cinema myself. biggrin.gif Go, go go! smile.gif

Under construction: the Larch theater
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post #5 of 67 Old 01-19-2014, 02:39 PM - Thread Starter
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update : plugging along.

Finished framing out the soffits.

Electrician coming tomorrow to rough in:

2 additional circuits 20 amp circuits to rack location.
3" lights at screenwall and in rear of room.
outlet for projector and ups.. and misc...





Sony HW50ES | Denon X4000 | Rocket RS850s | Rocket RS200 | Rocket RS750s | Rocket RS250s | Quad Stereo integrity 18" d4 sealed subs | Inuke nu46000 | MiniDSP | Oppo 103D

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post #6 of 67 Old 01-19-2014, 02:48 PM
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Subscribed!

Looking good so far!

No subwoofer I've heard has been able to produce the bass I've experienced in the Corps!

Must..stop...buying...every bluray release...
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post #7 of 67 Old 01-19-2014, 03:19 PM
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Looks like you've done your homework, got all the basic's cover really well.

I'll add just a couple off the brain thoughts:
-wire a smoke detector there
-run cat5e 2 runs to your PJ and 2 runs to your screen area, good for misc control circuits (rs-232, 12v triggers, etc). Ya never know when you'll need/want those. Future auto masking/etc.
-I see you got the D4 SI 18"s, with a Behringer Inuke nu4-6000 Amp for Subwoofers, so I'm guessing you will run 2 fronts and 2 rears such that you have a 4 ohm load to the amp for each channel.....those should be a good match
-I see 1 row of seats then a bar area behind that, are you going to run your power to the seats in a channel cut into the floor?
-with 25'7" length you should be able to avoid the first row seats being dead center (nulls), how far from front hard all (not false wall) will they be?
-are you going to make your front wall behind the screen acoustically dead? What is your plan?
-Are you considering to cover the exposed sofit with 6mil plastic before fabir, so you room is not too dead from absorption?
fwiw, consider pink fluffy for your corner bass traps, like you are already filling your soffits with.

As ref, I put a shelf 36" in case I wanted to put a subwoofer in the corner, so I guess you are doing that to begin with.
This might work for your rear area?
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1312693/diy-construction-methods-of-hang-able-acoustic-panels-moveable-corner-traps-not-fixed-frames/90#post_20588838
Quote:
A quick re-cap on my Front wall corner superchunk with "green" material, these were built 4/2011 thru 6/2011...slow but steady:
Cutting lots and lots of 24" x 24" x 34" triangles....nice to have non-itchy stuff.

Made a mid-support from 3/4" OSB to hold 2/3's of them 36" off the floor.
I did this as part of my front fabric mounting strategy as mid-support of the drywall corner edging and also just in case I ever wanted to tuck a sub there for whatever reason.
.

Top ones stacked, this is how it was for the 5/14 HEMI meet.

Post meet work, I realized the front wall speaker wires and side wall subwoofer coax needed to be moved....when building the HT I did not know about bass traps.
Cut and re-locate to 29" from the corner....use scrap wood as backer, tape/mud/paint, everything takes time.

Instead of making a fabric frame, I used drywall corner edge and wrapped the fabric behind that.
Bend them from 90deg to 45deg by hand, went ok.
Also, used kraft paper to reflect mid/hi freq like my other bass traps, just cut and tuck tight.

The fabric was cut with 4" extra top/bottom, and 2.5" each side.
Initially I pinned the top for hanging, then tucked that under the ceiling.

Used plastic putty knife to tuck the sides.
I designed the drywall edge to be 1/8" off the wall, and then tucked the fabric behind that and the cut triangles.
A decent friction fit that stretched taught.
Done and absorbing some of those reflecting LFE!

This method was easy to do, an alternative to making the fabric frame and mounting that.
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post #8 of 67 Old 01-21-2014, 09:36 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks MTB For the thoughts and for being generous with information.. Many of your archived posts and threads have been super helpful in preparing for my build.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mtbdudex View Post

Looks like you've done your homework, got all the basic's cover really well.

I'll add just a couple off the brain thoughts:
-wire a smoke detector there.. Already installed from prior to converting to theater room.

-run cat5e 2 runs to your PJ and 2 runs to your screen area, good for misc control circuits (rs-232, 12v triggers, etc). Ya never know when you'll need/want those. Future auto masking/etc. Will do!

-I see you got the D4 SI 18"s, with a Behringer Inuke nu4-6000 Amp for Subwoofers, so I'm guessing you will run 2 fronts and 2 rears such that you have a 4 ohm load to the amp for each channel.....those should be a good match
-I see 1 row of seats then a bar area behind that, are you going to run your power to the seats in a channel cut into the floor?Thankfully you reminded me the evening before my electrician came so we dropped a line and will wait to cut the box in after I place the seats. BIG Thanks

-with 25'7" length you should be able to avoid the first row seats being dead center (nulls), how far from front hard all (not false wall) will they be?At this point I am thinking 13 to 14 ft from screen so that puts the hard wall at 15 to 16 ft.

-are you going to make your front wall behind the screen acoustically dead? What is your plan?Great question. But there seem to be differing opinions on this. At this point I plan on filling the cavities in the front corners of my screen wall with pink fluffy (avove the subwoofers). As well as the ceiling to front wall corner thereby filling in that entire upper corner between the two columns. Then in addition I am plugging the two windows on that back wall with 1" ridgid fiberglass. so I may just leave it at that being that all this will cover a good 75 to 80% of my front wall... I'll know more after I start measuring. And can always add more absorbtion if needed. edit: behind the actual screen yes I will treat completely.. not sure about the entire wall yet..

-Are you considering to cover the exposed sofit with 6mil plastic before fabir, so you room is not too dead from absorption? have been considering 6 mil, 3 mil or kraft paper. but didnt know which one to go with quite yet.

fwiw, consider pink fluffy for your corner bass traps, like you are already filling your soffits with. Since my front corner bass traps can be so thick ( 2ft x 3 ft) i have already decided on pink fluffy for these too. I know a few of the most knowledgable folks on this forum state the you pretty much cant have too much bass trapping. but without really having seen anyone else post pink fluffy soffit traps quite as thick as mine I wonder how well they will actually perform.. seems likwe the thickness might have positive effects to lower frequencies than thinner bass traps. but what do I really know.. I may post this Q in another thread to see if I am going down the right path with these 2x3 pink fluffy traps but my gut tells me they will do really well....

As ref, I put a shelf 36" in case I wanted to put a subwoofer in the corner, so I guess you are doing that to begin with.
This might work for your rear area?
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1312693/diy-construction-methods-of-hang-able-acoustic-panels-moveable-corner-traps-not-fixed-frames/90#post_20588838

Sony HW50ES | Denon X4000 | Rocket RS850s | Rocket RS200 | Rocket RS750s | Rocket RS250s | Quad Stereo integrity 18" d4 sealed subs | Inuke nu46000 | MiniDSP | Oppo 103D

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post #9 of 67 Old 01-21-2014, 09:41 AM - Thread Starter
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I have a question.. Im planning on painting the framing and wall behind my screen black. But since my entire front wall will be fabric should the whole area be black? or only where the projector shines. I am curious since much of my screen wall will have pink fluffy insulation in it for bass trapping and I dont quite know how I would paint that??

Also the bottom of my soffits will have 2 ft wide fabric panels covering them. do I need to paint inside the soffits black behind those fabric panels ?

Thanks.

Sony HW50ES | Denon X4000 | Rocket RS850s | Rocket RS200 | Rocket RS750s | Rocket RS250s | Quad Stereo integrity 18" d4 sealed subs | Inuke nu46000 | MiniDSP | Oppo 103D

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post #10 of 67 Old 01-21-2014, 01:37 PM
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Good work so far and yes 4 subwoofers is a magic number.

I personally did 2 next to the each of the main stereo speakers and 4 in-wall that are amplified together as a mono sub.

The stereo pair integrate easier with 2 channel music where I can crossover the mains at 80hz.


I have heard that 4 subwoofers across the front of the room can actually work really well by allowing the subwoofers to act like a line source or something... I don't remember the details of the whitepaper. It might be easier to hide subs along a front baffle wall if they are all lined up.

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post #11 of 67 Old 01-22-2014, 11:06 AM - Thread Starter
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Framed out the surround for my equipment rack yesterday. I noticed this morning it might look a little crammed in on the right corner once the trim/drywall is installed so I may add a bit more wood there for aesthetics reasons before drywall.




plus a few of the roughed in electrical




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post #12 of 67 Old 01-22-2014, 11:28 AM
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More tech than I'll be putting into my room but the soffitt and stage are almost exactly what I have imagined. Looks good.

"Damn, you can't get black levels like that on your projector!"
- My brother, just before he realized his LED display had died.

Link to my Basement build
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1529034/conspiracy-basement-build
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post #13 of 67 Old 01-28-2014, 07:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Another update,


I got the first layer of mud on the drywall for the rack location. Mudding drywall sucks BTW!!




Also ran 2 1 1/2 inch conduit from rack to screen wall. for future runs. I installed speakers wires going to the front subs and some of the front speakers, but ran out of wire. I will end up running wire for height and width speakers now and leave the;m ready for any upgrade to 9.4 or 11.4 systems. I also remembered to run a pair of cat5 cables to screen. May run 1 or 2 more just to be sure.. mostly for control of devices via IR or rs232 etc ..




Finally one thing I hope i can get some feedback on .

The rack surround has 3 sections of drywall that are rather large compared to normal 16 oc walls. when I was framing it up I thought the only thing this framing will support is drywall. so I built with less wood than normal. Now I have 2 sections about 4 ft by 20" and 1 section about 2ft by 3 ft without any 2x4 backing it up.. When I tap on these sections there is a definite drumlike resonance. I wonder if I should add some more wood in there to screw into. Also wonder if I should add pink fluffy in there but dont know if its a bad idea to place insulation where the rack will be. I plan on venting the rack back into the room.. but still didnt know if the insulation would just trap heat in there..



Sony HW50ES | Denon X4000 | Rocket RS850s | Rocket RS200 | Rocket RS750s | Rocket RS250s | Quad Stereo integrity 18" d4 sealed subs | Inuke nu46000 | MiniDSP | Oppo 103D

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post #14 of 67 Old 01-31-2014, 05:44 PM - Thread Starter
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Got all the filling, mudding, and sanding yesterday so today my Dad and I did the sealing of the mdf soffits and painted the screen wall framing black. Since we live in sunny California we are unable to buy solvent based primers nowadays and are limited to water based primers in anything over quart size. Due to this I ended up using Zinssner's shellac sealer, Sealcoat.

On another note I ended up pretty happy with my mudding skills. This is by far the biggest job I have ever done with joint compound ( and I know its NOTHING compared to some DIY'ers) and it turned out well.. I was nervous about the inside and outside corners but in truth the worst thing ended up being joining my new rack surround to the crooked wall that was already there. had to float the mud out a little thicker there but its all but invisible now..





I also still hope someone can give me some feedback on the following two questions i asked earlier....


First. is this enough black on the framing of the screen wall? As of now the current painted framing is about where any light from the projector would hit... Above this the curved section will be covered with 1/2 inch ply wrapped in fabric. The entire back wall will be covered in black Linacoustic or pink fluffy insulation ..



Second, if anyone gets a chance to look over the issue with the rack surround resonating vs. filling with insulation I would appreciate any suggestions. Dad is coming back tomorrow and hopefully we can finish painting the cieling and soffits black!


Joel.

Sony HW50ES | Denon X4000 | Rocket RS850s | Rocket RS200 | Rocket RS750s | Rocket RS250s | Quad Stereo integrity 18" d4 sealed subs | Inuke nu46000 | MiniDSP | Oppo 103D

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post #15 of 67 Old 02-01-2014, 05:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Here is a few pics of the painted ceiling. Two coats of Glidden paint from home depot. Just asked for the dark base with max black pigment they can add. Shows a bit of streakiness but perhaps that will go away after fully drying???

Side note: realized I should thank Big mouth in DC for so many of his posts.. I think my soffit design.. curved section of my screen wall.. black paint and I am sure much more are based on c omments, pics ,or builds that he has posted about. Obviously there are many, many people on this forum who I have learned from and I thank everyone.. but for some reason Big came to mind .. so Thanks!!





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post #16 of 67 Old 02-02-2014, 05:37 PM
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Doing bass traps in those soffit holes? I would have the carpenter make you frames that fit in those spaces that you can cover with GOM fabric. Fill the space with owens corning Fiberglass panels (703 is the fight fibreglass i think).

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post #17 of 67 Old 02-03-2014, 02:02 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blazar View Post

Doing bass traps in those soffit holes? I would have the carpenter make you frames that fit in those spaces that you can cover with GOM fabric. Fill the space with owens corning Fiberglass panels (703 is the fight fibreglass i think).

I did copy my soffit design from others to incorporate bass traps in the soffits. And since this is almost competely a DIY build I'll be building the frames myself shortly. GOM Fabric is getting ordered today so I'll start those frames soon... As far as the insulation goes I will be using the regular pink fluffy insulation. Since they are about 9" high and 2 ft wide, everything I have read indicates pink fluffy insulation is the way to go. Oh and then I'll cover it with poly sheeting or Kraft paper to preserve some of the higher frequencies... Thanks for he feedback!

P.S. The only thing I wont be doing myself is the high voltage electrical work.. Farming that out to a prefessional electrician is a definite in my case..smile.gif

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post #18 of 67 Old 02-03-2014, 02:16 PM
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Pink fluffy isnt the right density I'm almost certain. Been a couple years tho. OC 703 panels can be stacked and cut to shape...

Depends on the frequency you want to absorb.

Check out my construction build thread

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post #19 of 67 Old 02-04-2014, 04:45 AM
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Very nice looking build!

Copied here also for benefit of your build thread:
Quote:
Originally Posted by MALIX View Post


Question 1. re side soffits. The left side soffit loses the bass trap cavity due to the shape of my room about half way along that soffit. ( you can see this in the picture of my Sketchup design. Where the rack is located and back the soffit no longer has the cavity.) This creates assymetry in the soffit bass traps for the left vs right sides of the room.. Should i still go ahead and fill these cavities with insulation and disregard the assymetry? or are there reasons to forego this.

Go Ahead with it, it wont hurt anything especially if you cover with poly.


Question 2. For front wall column corner traps. I have the option of wrapping these now with 6 mil poly to preserve some high/mid freqs. Should I err on the side of preserving those frequencies or a dead front wall . Perhaps 36" depth pink fluffy absorption necessitates 6 mil poly to not suck out too much hi/mid frequencies?

My personal preference is for unfaced treatment on the front wall. That includes corner traps and BB absorption behind mains.

Question 3. aside from the obvious fact that i wont be measuring the room before doing all this.. can anyone see any blatant issues with the proposed broadband trapping scheme?

I am building everything to be readily reversible/removable. all fabric panels will be easily removable to allow access to front wall and soffit cavities. I know its best to measure 1st then treat. but i am going with the quad corner subs/ lots of broadband trapping instead to try and get a decent response from the get go.. will measure as soon as I can but wanted to close up the soffits now and tweak more later..

Your plan sounds good. Four subs and room treatments will get you 99% there. Whether you spend considerable time, effort, and funds attaining that last 1% will be up to you. Since your about to start measuring you'll know what I mean soon enough. wink.gif

Don't waste time reading signatures.....
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post #20 of 67 Old 02-06-2014, 08:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the feedback!

Room has become a disaster zone of a mess. Rain came in to he west coast finally so had to bring everything in to the build room or the garage which has added to clutter.. My Dad came over yesterday to help so he primed the ceiling/soffit trim.. while I painted some of the the can light trim, soffit outlet covers and smoke detector flat black..

I also worked on the supports for the fiberglass batts that I was gonna place in the corner bass traps at the screenwall.


Today I began by cutting scrap pieces of lumber/ply to size and then screwing two strips of that wood together such that it pinched the end of an appropriate length of insulation. Thte rolls of insulation came in 15" wide by 9" thick .. And thankfully its formaldehyde free!! Allthough it still has a strong smell to it which will hopefully die down a bit as time goes by. The screwed together assembly was actually one 15" wide X 80" long strip of insulation and one 1/2 width ( approx7" to 8"width) X 80" long strip , as seen below.



the I simply hung the end with the wood strips up on the supports. Here is a picture showing the supports after after I hung up the third batt.



It took a total of four 80" lenghts of insulation to fill the columns. I also filled in at the top with small pieces of insulation to fill any voids. I left just enough room at the bottom to slide in one subwoofer.




After filling the two corner traps with pink fluff.. I got to filling the overhead spaces of the screen wall. I used screws and wire to hold up the batts behind the screenwall.





the curved section was just stuffed in place and didnt require anything to keep it there.




Here is as far as I got today... Will work on stuffing the soffits tomorrow.



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My Build http://www.avsforum.com/t/1510721/the-bass-for-the-98-diy-build
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post #21 of 67 Old 02-09-2014, 09:30 AM
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Malix- Very nice job. I admire your soffits. I am curious about why you chose electrical box covers to line the top and bottom of the curved part of the soffit along the top of where the screen will go. Is there electrical in there?

thank you, dan
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post #22 of 67 Old 02-09-2014, 09:43 AM
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I'm pretty sure that's flexible framing track that is used in lieu of rigid top and bottom plates to make curved walls. It does look like hundreds of junction box covers though.
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post #23 of 67 Old 02-09-2014, 10:02 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Rankin View Post

Malix- Very nice job. I admire your soffits. I am curious about why you chose electrical box covers to line the top and bottom of the curved part of the soffit along the top of where the screen will go. Is there electrical in there?

thank you, dan

Spaceman is right. Here is the product I used - http://www.flexabilityconcepts.com/. Called flex-c trac. I got the idea to use it from Bigmouth in DC.... he used it in the the build of his own theater IIRC. Kinda spendy but my curve is 18 ft long so it simplified the build some for my situation. Had it been a smaller curve I might have just used standard building materials to fabricate the curve. Its pretty cool stuff IMO. you can see here how its used...http://www.flexabilityconcepts.com/video.

And here are a pic of how I shaped my curve. Sorry for the crappy pic though...


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My Build http://www.avsforum.com/t/1510721/the-bass-for-the-98-diy-build
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post #24 of 67 Old 02-10-2014, 08:55 PM
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looking good Malix!

Have a Happy and safe New Year!!!
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post #25 of 67 Old 02-10-2014, 08:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Brutha!!

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post #26 of 67 Old 02-10-2014, 10:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MALIX View Post

the I simply hung the end with the wood strips up on the supports. Here is a picture showing the supports after after I hung up the third batt.


Did you attach them in some way? I'm just thinking about the risk of rattling if you do get any vibrations transferred in there.

Under construction: the Larch theater
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post #27 of 67 Old 02-10-2014, 10:59 PM
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I used the windows behind my screen and placed owens corning 703 in there. Be careful that that area doesnt become a place for condensation. Some colored fabric in there first will make it look good from the outside as well.

Blazar!
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post #28 of 67 Old 02-11-2014, 08:34 AM
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I'm glad to see another Bay Area build!  Everything is looking great and I really like that curved front wall.  Did you end up receiving a lot of rain in your area over the weekend?

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post #29 of 67 Old 02-11-2014, 08:35 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nightlord View Post

Did you attach them in some way? I'm just thinking about the risk of rattling if you do get any vibrations transferred in there.

You know, I did not. I planned on attaching them mechanically from the get go for the exact reason you mention. But in the end, I realized the weight of the battts , along with them tightly fitting the space, will keep them in place with no vibration. There is substantial friction between the batts, as well, due to the sticky nature of the insulation. So its acts like one large monoblock of pink fluffy at this point. But as always ,I will have access to the space to work out kinks in the event they need more attention down the road.

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post #30 of 67 Old 02-11-2014, 08:41 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blazar View Post

I used the windows behind my screen and placed owens corning 703 in there. Be careful that that area doesnt become a place for condensation. Some colored fabric in there first will make it look good from the outside as well.

The house is only about 4 yrs old so. the windows are good so we get no condensation. What I did was placed one layer of black linascoustic in the opening ( blackside facing out). Its cut to a friction fit. Then more linacoustic covering the entire back wall. The windows look great from the outside with them being all black.. Another fine tip from BigmouthinDC I read somewhere..

Thanks for lookin out tho!

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My Build http://www.avsforum.com/t/1510721/the-bass-for-the-98-diy-build
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