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post #1 of 132 Old 02-07-2014, 07:41 PM - Thread Starter
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So... I have a room in my basement that has already been finished.  Due to an unforeseen disaster (flood) said room is now being re-purposed.  Although this room didn't sustain any damage we are rearranging our basement and I now have the opportunity to do what I've always wanted to... build a dedicated home theater.  I'm new to AVS, but from what I've been reading so far this forum rocks!  Lots of great info here.

 

I am fairly handy (make some small furniture, usually fix most things around house myself, good with wiring, build my own computers, etc...) but I'm always learning and a home theater will definitely be something new I haven't tackled yet.  Any advice is much appreciated.

 

Although I could rip out drywall and start with a completely clean slate I'd like to avoid this as much as possible.  However, I am amenable to opening a hole here and there.  I suppose if you twist my arm I'd take out several large pieces of drywall.

 

About that room:

The layout is a little funky with the entry area slightly wider by 2' (due to the foundation).  Dimensions are 15' 5" x 23' 3" with the far end a bit narrower 13' 5".  Height is 7' 10" - there is a drywalled drop ceiling to cover up a significant amount of ductwork, cables, and pipes running lengthwise across the middle of the room.  There is little chance of moving these into soffits due to the number and size.  So I'm stuck with a ceiling a bit on the low end.  The good thing is there is room in the ceiling to run cables/conduit.  Entry is via french doors on the angled wall.  Smaller door at front leads into a wine cellar (project from a few years back).  Closet on the far end is nearly 4' x 3'.  I'm going to convert this to the A/V closet.  There are no windows.

 

Initial thoughts on what the room could look like:

    

Link to SketchUp File: PaninoHomeTheaterRoom.zip 211k .zip file

 

Wants / Desires / Ridiculous wishes that may never come true:

  • Higher ceiling. (not going to happen as mentioned above, but I'd like to find a way to make the room look taller)
  • 2 rows of seating - 7 or 8 people total if possible (back row on a riser).
  • 92" diag fixed screen (16:9).
  • Something to break up the walls (for aesthetics and acoustics) - possibly columns and sconces.
  • LED lighting under lip of riser.
  • Floating crown molding at top of wall with LED lighting in trough (might also use as a cable run).
  • Way to cover up A/V closet door/opening. (? curtains... ? build a second wall slightly in front.)
  • Extra circuits and cooling/venting for A/V closet (will contain all A/V equipment as well as a few servers and switches).
  • Would like to paint a star ceiling (have experience already).  Problem is lighting it (e.g. concealing the blacklights).
  • Extra space in back for another chair, table, or counter with theater goodies.

 

Equipment I currently have from my previous makeshift theater:

  • Klipsch RC52 center
  • Klipsch RS52 surrounds
  • Klipsch RF52 front
  • Klipsch RW10d sub
  • Panasonic AE3000 projector
  • Onkyo TX-SR706 receiver
  • Pivos video streamer
  • Samsung Blu-ray player
  • 2 servers (1 Western Digital DX4000 NAS, 1 homebuilt)

 

I have no definite timeline for completion, although my wife does.  She'd like it done sooner rather than later, so I'm probably shooting to have this done by end of summer/fall.  Any comments and suggestions would be greatly appreciated.  I'll try and post some actual pix of the room in my next post.

 

Thanks,

Pan

Attached Files
File Type: zip PaninoHomeTheaterRoom.zip (211.4 KB, 24 views)


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post #2 of 132 Old 02-08-2014, 01:26 PM
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Move the doors and get a much bigger screen. There is no way that a 98 inch diagonal screen can handle two rows. You need to modify your seating plan a bit as you have them too far forward.

JEFF PARKINSON


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post #3 of 132 Old 02-08-2014, 01:34 PM - Thread Starter
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So here are some pix of the room: (front wall, back wall, and view from entry)

I'm planning on ripping out the carpet this week.  High pile whitish carpet won't work for my theater build.  I'm planning on going dark and besides, need to build a riser among other things.

 

 

 

 

I've taped off the area that will be the screen.  Since I'd like to get a 92" screen centered on the front wall there is a slight overlap with the trim from the closet door frame.  I think I'll get around this by building a support for the screen slightly off the front wall.  I don't want to lose to much length though, probably will build it out around 6".

 

 

 

I've hit a bit of a dead-end on what to do with the AV closet door.  I'd like to be able to access it easily, yet have it concealed.  I've thought of curtains, building in a new door that blends with the front wall, or possibly building a false wall with angled corners (see SketchUp diagram above - very preliminary).  The last method might be best.  I figure this way I could cover the false wall with GOM fabric, acoustically insulate the front wall (which would now be hidden), and hide my front speakers behind the angles.  The only issue is still getting to the AV closet.  Has anyone done this with a part of the wall on hinges to move it like a door perhaps?  I would obviously need easy access to the closet and a big enough entry to move equipment in and out.  Any suggestions?

 

-Pan



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post #4 of 132 Old 02-08-2014, 01:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Move the doors and get a much bigger screen. There is no way that a 98 inch diagonal screen can handle two rows. You need to modify your seating plan a bit as you have them too far forward.

 

Thanks Big for your reply.  Unfortunately I can't move the rear door (leading to my cellar) without completely gutting and redoing that room.  The french doors could be relocated to the left wall, but would still leave the angled corner due to the rest of the basement, and the closet door is also fairly fixed because that space is surrounded by the foundation.  The closet has outer foundation walls on all 3 sides.  I could increase the screen size, but probably only by moving the front wall (or a false wall) back several feet to allow access to the closet (see the post I just put up with diagram).  But that would make me push the seating even further back, blocking the cellar door.  Maybe I'm stuck with one row?

 

-Pan



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post #5 of 132 Old 02-08-2014, 08:38 PM - Thread Starter
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So today I did a little more research on seating distances, angles, and the like.  Looking into Big's advice on a bigger screen and rearranging seating I've come up with 2 scenarios.  As I stated in an earlier post it will be difficult if not impossible to redo the doors in this room.  This doesn't leave me with much leeway in moving the seating around.  I could go with one row, although I really want to avoid that.  I did make a change to the front row, going with 3 seats instead of 4.  I don't think I'd have the clearance on the sides to go with 4.  So the two scenarios differ only in the screen size and position and riser height.  I've included SketchUp images showing seating distance, viewing angles, and THX and SMPTE recommended distances (plugged in screen sizes into CarltonBale theater calculator).  Let me know what you think.

 

Scenario A.

92" diag screen 16:9 displaced 6" off front wall.  Originally planned riser height of 8", although looking at my diagram may have to add an inch or two or shift the screen a bit further up.

Pros:

  • Not covering up as much of closet edge, although could probably work something out if using the larger screen.
  • Riser doesn't need to be as high (a bonus with the low ceiling).
  • Front row appears to be right in the THX sweet spot with viewing angle.

Cons:

  • Back row not so good with viewing angle (27 deg).
  • Smaller screen not as immersive.

 

 

 

Scenario B.

106" diag screen 16:9 displaced 12" off front wall.  Had to pull it further off the wall to give more clearance for closet behind since the screen is now wider.  I now lose a full foot of distance on the room, but on the plus side I probably now have the length to hide the center channel under the screen.  Downside is I am now looking at a riser of 12" for clearance because of the taller screen.  With ceilings 7' 10" and the projector probably hanging right over the back row not so sure about this.

 

 

 

Pros:

  • Bigger screen = more immersive experience.
  • Moving screen further off front wall allows me to hide center channel under screen.
  • Back row viewing angle improved, but still not great (30 deg).

Cons:

  • Slightly covers up AV closet edge more.  So will need to make sure I have the proper clearance during framing for doors and access.
  • Higher riser needed (problematic with lower ceiling height and projector hanging over back row).
  • Front row may be too close?

 

 

Both choices have their pluses and minuses.  I kinda like the idea of a bigger 106" screen.  However, I am by no means even close to an expert on theater seating arrangement.  Any and all advice is much appreciated.  Give me your vote and let me know your thoughts.

-Pan



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post #6 of 132 Old 02-10-2014, 05:02 AM
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I'm not expert theater builder (have built my own twice with what I feel like is good success), but I thought I'd share an idea.

I just mocked this up in 2 minutes using MS Paint, so please forgive.

I'm a freak about having rooms with weird angles...especially theater rooms. Have you considered erecting a couple of walls (illustrated in black)? It would make the room rectangle, and give you a little foyer type space. I realized after I typed it that the space created on the side would BARELY be wide enough to house the gear once the wall is frame up. You could though, flush mount the rack in the wall so that it faced out to the "foyer" space, and then put a door (could hide with with fabric panels as discussed) to access the space behind the rack.

I'd look real hard at doing something along those lines.

If you think I'm crazy that's fine...it's just a suggestion.


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post #7 of 132 Old 02-10-2014, 08:17 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Dan for your ideas, and no you aren't crazy. Changing the configuration/shape of room did cross my mind. I just hate to lose anymore length on the room, especially given that I'm going to try and bump the screen size up a bit and possibly shift seats back another foot. I'll take your idea and play with it a bit, see if I can't square the room somehow but keep more length.

On another note, I did check out your thread. You have a nice theater going.. Looks like you're almost done. Congrats! What size screen and seating distance did you settle on? Looks like a 106" 16:9 and I think originally you planned first row at 10'. Does it feel too close?


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post #8 of 132 Old 02-10-2014, 01:14 PM - Thread Starter
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Was mulling over my crappy laid out room that I'm trying desperately to make into a theater and thought of this interesting idea... rotating the entire frame of the room about 5 deg.  I lose a little on the sides, but gain in useable length, especially if I flip the french doors so they open to the outside.  I would essentially reframe at least the front wall and right wall.  I'm limited on all sides with the existing walls (black = concrete foundation,  white = walls to adjoining rooms that can't be moved easily).  There is a door on back wall also (not pictured).

 

For perspective on size I put two screens on front wall; red=106"(16:9), green=120"(2.35:1).

 

The design is narrower in the front and wider in the back, like a real deal theater (prob good for acoustics).  But I assume if I keep the back wall as is, the right rear corner will likely end up creating some serious standing waves?

 

Anyone ever attempted rotating a room within a room?

 



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post #9 of 132 Old 02-10-2014, 05:52 PM
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I did a 110" 16:9 screen. My front row of seats head height is about 10' 2" back and it feels great. Back row is about 17".

Room is all done except for chairs, and those are on order.

To answer your question though, it doesn't feel too close at all.

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post #10 of 132 Old 02-19-2014, 06:41 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm still in the planning phase, although I have done a bit more demo in the room (no construction yet).  I think I'm going to cave in and just demo all the drywall... something nice about starting with a clean slate.  And then I can properly soundproof the room, run conduit, etc...

 

Taking people's advice of moving seats, screen size bigger, etc... I'm closing in on a more definitive plan.  Although the room is not quite rectangle I'm fairly set on working around it to accommodate extra seating and space.  Seats have been moved back further (likely need to go back a little more) as I have now included a false front wall to hide speakers behind a larger, 110" (16:9) screen.  Small stage will probably fill with sand as sub will sit on it.  Reframing AV closet door smaller and closer to wall to allow easier access.  Columns a bit larger to hide surrounds and more insulation.  I also can't move the back wall doors very easily at all, so again... just going to work with what I have.  Still playing with riser configuration and position as well as seating position and number so as not to block doors.  I really want to try to get 8 seats in there, but that might be asking for too much.  Will probably reverse the swing on the entry doors or change to a single heavier door for better sound containment.

 

With all these workarounds and compromises I think I may rename the thread... "Panino's Asymmetric Compromise Cinema"

 



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post #11 of 132 Old 02-20-2014, 07:32 AM
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I made a false wall in my old theater and I loved being able to put everything behind it. I hung my (huge) screen with hinges at the top so I could pull the screen out from the bottom up to the ceiling and access the stuff behind it. You could potentially do something similar which would allow you to get into the closet and also let you have a much larger screen.
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post #12 of 132 Old 02-20-2014, 10:03 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dradius View Post

I made a false wall in my old theater and I loved being able to put everything behind it. I hung my (huge) screen with hinges at the top so I could pull the screen out from the bottom up to the ceiling and access the stuff behind it. You could potentially do something similar which would allow you to get into the closet and also let you have a much larger screen.


Yeah, I like the idea of a cleaner look and also being able to put the sound where it is actually coming from on the screen.  I love the idea of a hinged screen for access!  If I had more length to the room hinging a larger screen would be great.  I can't move the seats too much further back though.  Currently the front row sits at around ~10' with a horizontal viewing angle of 45 deg.



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post #13 of 132 Old 02-23-2014, 06:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Demo almost done.  Carpet out and drywall out.  Only thing remaining is the framed dropped/floated ceiling and probably re-framing the AV closet door.  There is something very satisfying about demo. :D It's nice to see studs.

 

First pic shows a look at the front wall and AV closet to the right.

 

This is a view of the right wall.  You can see the builder decided to toe nail 2x4s into a ledger-board.  Only 1/2" drywall was suspended from this ceiling, but I'm not sure I would have built it this way... not a very strong design.

 

HVAC, water gas and waste pipes, and LOTS of cable runs.

 

 

The HVAC ducts are 2' wide by 1' high.  Trying to relocate these as well as all the other pipes and cables would not only require some massive soffits, but would be cost prohibitive, so I'm leaving them where they are and just dealing with a lower ceiling.:( 

 

So here is my plan... please let me know if anyone has suggestions that I can improve on.  I think the way I'll be re-framing the room is through the use of staggered studs.  I'll run the studs either up to the floor joists or to the dropped ceiling height (1 foot lower) and anchor them to the existing stud wall or joists via something like an IB3 brackets or RSIC-DC04 brackets to decouple the walls.  I'll add a new ledger board on the staggered studs to attached the dropped ceiling joists, either 2x4s or 2x6s.  I could do it with 2x4s as long as I provide some decoupled midspan support up to the joists, but I'm a bit worried about warping more than support.  I'll attach the new joists with joist hangers (way better support than toe nailing as was done previously).  This will essentially create a floating ceiling that I can attach 5/8 DD directly to without the need for clips/channel.  I'll then also DD/GG the walls as well.

 

Before drywalling the ceiling I'd like to run some conduit for cable runs to the AV closet and projector location and also work out a plan with the HVAC.  I'll probably add a second supply and return to the room.  Not sure if I'll have the registers at the ceiling or run them to the floor in side columns.  I'm thinking the latter.  I should have plenty of room in the ceiling to add mufflers to the HVAC ducts.



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post #14 of 132 Old 02-25-2014, 12:44 AM
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What will the height be on your low ceilings? I'm dealing with some hvac issues as well which would drop the whole right side of my room to between 6'8"-6'9" after drywall and flooring and left side around 8'. need to get some hvac folks out to get opinions on relocating and how it may/may not effect my efficiency.

Room is coming along great. Glad I subscribed and keep up the good work!
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post #15 of 132 Old 02-25-2014, 06:30 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rjloper9 View Post

What will the height be on your low ceilings? I'm dealing with some hvac issues as well which would drop the whole right side of my room to between 6'8"-6'9" after drywall and flooring and left side around 8'. need to get some hvac folks out to get opinions on relocating and how it may/may not effect my efficiency.

Room is coming along great. Glad I subscribed and keep up the good work!

 

Before demo there was a single layer of 1/2" drywall on the dropped ceiling, for a height of 7'10".  Adding 2 layers of 5/8 drywall and GG will drop it another 3/4", almost to 7'9".  It is hard to see in the photos, but the 2x4 joists running under the HVAC were actually trimmed down to half height in the midspan under the ducts to allow the ceiling to be a little higher.  This isn't the greatest idea for structural support to say the least, but it preserved another 1" or so of ceiling height.  If I reframe it the same way I will need to add several points of decoupled midspan support or I lose slightly over an inch of height running the 2x4s fully under the HVAC.  

 

I'll probably try to shoot for 7'9".  The back row riser needs to be at least 8" height and I'll have a projector hanging above that.  In your case, given your low ceilings, you might be able to strategically place the projector over the back end of a row so people can't accidentally walk into it.  Or if your room is not too long and the projector has a sufficient throw you could place it near the back wall.



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Thank you for the info!
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post #17 of 132 Old 02-26-2014, 04:16 AM
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5/8 x 2 > 3/4. You'll be 1 1/4.

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post #18 of 132 Old 02-26-2014, 08:01 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dhendriksen View Post

5/8 x 2 > 3/4. You'll be 1 1/4.

Sent from my Droid MAXX via Tapatalk.


You are correct, from the framing the total drywall ceiling thickness is 1 1/4"    But 1 1/4" minus the 1/2" drywall I just ripped out puts the ceiling at 3/4" lower than where I started.  Sorry, didn't mean to be so confusing with all the numbers.  I'm just happy we are only talking about fractions of an inch, not dropping it by _inches_ or more.  ;)



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post #19 of 132 Old 03-07-2014, 07:53 AM
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are you ready for some input?
Quote:
Originally Posted by panino View Post

Before demo there was a single layer of 1/2" drywall on the dropped ceiling, for a height of 7'10".  Adding 2 layers of 5/8 drywall and GG will drop it another 3/4", almost to 7'9".  It is hard to see in the photos, but the 2x4 joists running under the HVAC were actually trimmed down to half height in the midspan under the ducts to allow the ceiling to be a little higher.  This isn't the greatest idea for structural support to say the least, but it preserved another 1" or so of ceiling height.  If I reframe it the same way I will need to add several points of decoupled midspan support or I lose slightly over an inch of height running the 2x4s fully under the HVAC.  
I see the problem there it looks like they supported the 2x4s on each side of the AC unit before cutting them in half. You can decouple the ceiling the same way with IB-3 clips on those supports. I would consider using 2x6 like you were thinking. What if you were to span the distance with 3 pieces? 2x6 decoupled on both sides and a 2x4 on its side under the HVAC. You can either decouple it on its own or nail it into the decoupled support 2x4 coming down. Hope that makes sence
I'll probably try to shoot for 7'9".  The back row riser needs to be at least 8" height and I'll have a projector hanging above that.  In your case, given your low ceilings, you might be able to strategically place the projector over the back end of a row so people can't accidentally walk into it.  Or if your room is not too long and the projector has a sufficient throw you could place it near the back wall.
I would also then use 1/2" plywood as the first layer of your ceiling to tie it all together. PW/GG/DW Normaly you would use 19/32" as that is 5/8" but you need all the space you can



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post #20 of 132 Old 03-07-2014, 07:58 AM
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When you think of your columns thik of DTS/Dolby recomendations



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post #21 of 132 Old 03-07-2014, 10:37 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by cw5billwade View Post

are you ready for some input?
I would also then use 1/2" plywood as the first layer of your ceiling to tie it all together. PW/GG/DW Normaly you would use 19/32" as that is 5/8" but you need all the space you can


That is very similar to what I was thinking of doing. I'm planning on decoupling extra supports in the mid portion of the dropped joists with DC04 clips, at least 2 extra supports per joist. I didn't consider a 2x4 on the side for extra support beneath the ducting, but not sure how much extra weight that would support given that it is on its side. And the span across the ducts is 5 feet. An idea I thought up, although maybe a bit crazy, is to use a few extra hanger wire supports running between both ducts up to the ceiling. The hanger wire would be thin enough to run between the ducts, strong enough for the load, and I can decouple it with one of those WHI decouplers above.


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post #22 of 132 Old 03-07-2014, 11:26 AM
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Not crazy but 5’ span is a lot. When they hung my HVAC they used these straps that kind of look like the straps used in ratchet straps. That may be better and would already be decoupled as the strap is material. I would be afraid the wire under the 2x4 would make a bump between the 2x4 and the plywood. 2x4 on its side has to be stronger than the one cut in half they used. With a 4'x8' piece of plywood and a 5 foot span that will leave you 1 1/2 foot on each end to secure to the 2x6s so you will defiantly have to snap some lines and run the plywood straight down the middle. (lots of screws) With the support on both ends I do not think it would be too much weight for the 2x4 on the side and you could put the screws closer together and an offset pattern. ‘ , ‘ , ‘ , ‘ , ‘ , ‘ , ‘ , like that down the 2x4 portion and also put some construction adhesive on the whole mess. That will make it nice and strong I used adhesive on everything. It is darn had to get two pieces of wood apart after it sets. Again you just have to snap lots of lines to line everything up. By the way a drywall lift is your friend I rented mine from HD


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post #23 of 132 Old 03-07-2014, 11:35 AM
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that unsupported span of what looks like the equiv of a 2x2 makes me nervous. I'm surprised it passed a framing inspection.

JEFF PARKINSON


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post #24 of 132 Old 03-07-2014, 11:41 AM
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This is a view of the right wall.  You can see the builder decided to toe nail 2x4s into a ledger-board.  Only 1/2" drywall was suspended from this ceiling, but I'm not sure I would have built it this way... not a very strong design.

So here is my plan... please let me know if anyone has suggestions that I can improve on.  I think the way I'll be re-framing the room is through the use of staggered studs.  I'll run the studs either up to the floor joists
this I would put the IB-3 clip on the top of the 2x4 and attach to the top plate after you add the 2x2 for the stagered wall up there


I'll add a new ledger board on the staggered studs to attached the dropped ceiling joists, either 2x4s or 2x6s.  I could do it with 2x4s as long as I provide some decoupled midspan support up to the joists, but I'm a bit worried about warping more than support.  I'll attach the new joists with joist hangers (way better support than toe nailing as was done previously).  This will essentially create a floating ceiling that I can attach 5/8 DD directly to without the need for clips/channel.  I'll then also DD/GG the walls as well.
Why not skip the ledger board and hangers just extend the 2x6 joist an extra 3 1/2" into the cavity and put 5 screws into the decoupled stud you have to insure they are all level this is where a lazer level would come in handy

Before drywalling the ceiling I'd like to run some conduit for cable runs to the AV closet and projector location and also work out a plan with the HVAC.  I'll probably add a second supply and return to the room.  Not sure if I'll have the registers at the ceiling or run them to the floor in side columns.  I'm thinking the latter.  I should have plenty of room in the ceiling to add mufflers to the HVAC ducts. just make sure when you attach the supplies and returns you use flex and wrap them in pink insulation most are in a soffit but you have plenty of room on both sides you just need to wind them around and isolate them.


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post #25 of 132 Old 03-07-2014, 07:09 PM - Thread Starter
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that unsupported span of what looks like the equiv of a 2x2 makes me nervous. I'm surprised it passed a framing inspection.

I'm amazed as well. I'm sure an inspector never saw it. Considering I'm planning on hanging DD or OSB/Drywall I'm planning on beefing up the support.


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post #26 of 132 Old 03-07-2014, 07:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Running the joists to attach to the side of the staggered studs is an idea I didn't think of. I guess 4-5 screws through the side would probably offer similar support of a joist hanger on a ledger board. Lining them up would be a bit more challenging, but I do have a laser level. One thing I like about a ledger board though is it helps to tie the top of all the staggered studs together since they don't have a top plate, only anchored by a bracket. I worry a little about the stability of the top of the wall without any extra support other than the bracket.

I'm thinking of forgoing the soffits and constructing a light tray anchored to the wall atop columns. I think with my ceiling height a soffit will really drag the overall ceiling down to a level that is too low on the edges. With no soffits I'll probably put an HVAC muffler in the ceiling instead. This should work as I've got plenty of room above the floating ceiling for this, and like you've said, enough room to take the flex duct for a loop or two before running it out through a ceiling register.


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post #27 of 132 Old 03-10-2014, 06:57 AM
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Running the joists to attach to the side of the staggered studs is an idea I didn't think of. I guess 4-5 screws through the side would probably offer similar support of a joist hanger on a ledger board. Lining them up would be a bit more challenging, but I do have a laser level. One thing I like about a ledger board though is it helps to tie the top of all the staggered studs together since they don't have a top plate, only anchored by a bracket. I worry a little about the stability of the top of the wall without any extra support other than the bracket.
You are right I think the ledger will be the best since you have a floating wall studs so to speak it will tie them together.
I'm thinking of forgoing the soffits and constructing a light tray anchored to the wall atop columns. I think with my ceiling height a soffit will really drag the overall ceiling down to a level that is too low on the edges. With no soffits I'll probably put an HVAC muffler in the ceiling instead. This should work as I've got plenty of room above the floating ceiling for this, and like you've said, enough room to take the flex duct for a loop or two before running it out through a ceiling register.
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post #28 of 132 Old 03-12-2014, 07:31 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by cw5billwade View Post
 

 

Regarding the ledger board..  I'm definitely going to have to use the ledger board.  I realized while I was planning out framing that I will need to run the joists 8" off center from the staggered studs in order to line them up with the floor joists above for the additional support framing to connect the two together for added interspan support.  I wouldn't be able to tie the joists in with the staggered studs afterall.

 

 

Did a test of screen size the other day to see how it would look on the wall.  Also wanted to be sure I was reframing the AV closet door to an appropriate size.  Image is a projection of ~110 inch (16:9) from about 19 or so feet back.  Keep in mind that the actual screen wall will be 2 feet closer than the projected image.



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post #29 of 132 Old 03-12-2014, 07:37 PM - Thread Starter
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Previous drop ceiling is history as is all the electrical.  After a little tidying up the existing nest of Cat5 and electrical cable in the ceiling, time to start framing in the staggered studs and new drop/floating ceiling.

 

 



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post #30 of 132 Old 03-13-2014, 10:16 AM
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Looks great keep moving the ball down the court


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